Cadillac 500 into a 1988 4dr 4wd GMC
- Thread starter whitfimb
- Start date
whitfimb
Well-known member
ecoast said:...I think he got distracted by the :
boat ?
Grand Vit?
Taco ?
latest sammi ?
It's worse then I thought.... My daughter did mention that I need to finish that project and sell it so I'll have a place to park the boat. Not much left to do just finding the time to do it.
Need to install exhaust + State inspection on my 98 Integra that I'm paying tax tag and insurance on but haven't driven since Dec.
whitfimb
Well-known member
Wow Dec 5th 2005....
7 yrs in and I've still never heard it run.
Yearly lube job. ~ Marvel mystery oil'd the engine again today and turned it over a few times. Vacuumed the dust and debris from under the hood. Air up the 10 ply 38's TSL SX's again...
Now to get serious on making it run.
1. Ignition system. HEI ~ simple / gather new plugs wires cap / rotor.
2. Cooling system.
New radiator is in. 3" body lift makes fan not align properly, Upper hose is not a good fit (caddy hose to 94 Chevy truck radiator. Upper hose is 2' long. Heater outlet on back of block needs to be plugged until heater core is needed.
3. Exhaust system
I don't want to start it up to break in the cam on open manifolds but don't want to tow the crew cab to an exh shop to run duals with it not running. Source a factory Caddy Y pipe and install a cheap muffler to make it bearable.
4. Fuel system.
Concerns ~ tank has been empty since 2005, bad fuel / crap in the tank (other vehicles) has cost me 1 month + of wrench time and 1 zuwharrie weekend @ 400+ miles towing / vacation time / + $$$. Crunchy Taco Project at the body shop for paint has bad fuel now... UGGGH!!!
NEW Tank, NEW filter, New rubber line, 2nd filter,..... other issue is caddy fuel pump is driver side, Chev pump is passenger side. Fuel line need to route across frame.
5. Lube system
Concerns ~ Prime the oil pump ~ chevy tool will not fit. same flat blade but can not have the barrel around it. Maybe scavenge a caddy distributor shaft.
6. Install starter. Not too technical but gotta have the tail bracket to attach the starter to the block. Otherwise any kick back will trash the starter.
7 yrs in and I've still never heard it run.
Yearly lube job. ~ Marvel mystery oil'd the engine again today and turned it over a few times. Vacuumed the dust and debris from under the hood. Air up the 10 ply 38's TSL SX's again...
Now to get serious on making it run.
1. Ignition system. HEI ~ simple / gather new plugs wires cap / rotor.
2. Cooling system.
New radiator is in. 3" body lift makes fan not align properly, Upper hose is not a good fit (caddy hose to 94 Chevy truck radiator. Upper hose is 2' long. Heater outlet on back of block needs to be plugged until heater core is needed.
3. Exhaust system
I don't want to start it up to break in the cam on open manifolds but don't want to tow the crew cab to an exh shop to run duals with it not running. Source a factory Caddy Y pipe and install a cheap muffler to make it bearable.
4. Fuel system.
Concerns ~ tank has been empty since 2005, bad fuel / crap in the tank (other vehicles) has cost me 1 month + of wrench time and 1 zuwharrie weekend @ 400+ miles towing / vacation time / + $$$. Crunchy Taco Project at the body shop for paint has bad fuel now... UGGGH!!!
NEW Tank, NEW filter, New rubber line, 2nd filter,..... other issue is caddy fuel pump is driver side, Chev pump is passenger side. Fuel line need to route across frame.
5. Lube system
Concerns ~ Prime the oil pump ~ chevy tool will not fit. same flat blade but can not have the barrel around it. Maybe scavenge a caddy distributor shaft.
6. Install starter. Not too technical but gotta have the tail bracket to attach the starter to the block. Otherwise any kick back will trash the starter.
whitfimb
Well-known member
Start up / Install notes... for my reference
Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction and observe #1 cylinder intake valve. This is the second vale from front of engine on passenger side. As this valve begins to close, the #1 cylinder is approaching top dead center.
Carefully insert a clean long thin screwdriver into the #1 cylinder sparkplug hole. Use it to follow the upward travel of piston as crankshaft is rotated.
When piston reaches top of its travel, compare timing marks on pulley and timing tab. They should be close or right on. The piston stays at top dead center for several degrees of rotation. If you can get the timing marks to align within this few degrees, no correction is needed.
Fill crankcase short 1 quart of oil. All styles of Cadillac oil pans except the 1968-1978 Eldorado pans have a 5 quart capacity with a new filter. The Eldorado pan has a 6 quart capacity with new filter.
Install oil pressure sending unit in engine. Proper location is at rear center of engine by transmission mating surface.
Hand prime engine oil pump. Use a speed handle with a flat blade screw driver socket attachment. You can also modify an old distributor for this task.
Prime oil system until oil flows from all rocker arms. Stop hand prime of system. Allow 5 mins. For oil drain back into oil pan.
Insert oil dipstick into engine. Check accuracy of marks. Stick should read 1 quart low. If stick needs to insert deeper, top of dip stick tube may be trimmed. You may also just make your own new file mark on stick. Add final quart of oil to engine. Check or file mark stick for correct full level.
Slide round distributor gasket up onto distributor body from bottom of distributor.
Install spark plug wires in correct firing order into cap. All engines use the same firing order of 1-5-6-3-4-2-7-8. This order follows a clockwise rotation from the #1 plug wire terminal of distributor cap. #1 terminal is located in different positions on point style or HEI distributors. See prior photos for correct locations.
Cylinders are numbered from front of engine to back. Passenger side of engine has cylinder #?s 1-3-5-7. Driver side of engine has cylinder #?s 2-4-6-8.
Double check wire placement and firing order.
Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction and observe #1 cylinder intake valve. This is the second vale from front of engine on passenger side. As this valve begins to close, the #1 cylinder is approaching top dead center.
Carefully insert a clean long thin screwdriver into the #1 cylinder sparkplug hole. Use it to follow the upward travel of piston as crankshaft is rotated.
When piston reaches top of its travel, compare timing marks on pulley and timing tab. They should be close or right on. The piston stays at top dead center for several degrees of rotation. If you can get the timing marks to align within this few degrees, no correction is needed.
Fill crankcase short 1 quart of oil. All styles of Cadillac oil pans except the 1968-1978 Eldorado pans have a 5 quart capacity with a new filter. The Eldorado pan has a 6 quart capacity with new filter.
Install oil pressure sending unit in engine. Proper location is at rear center of engine by transmission mating surface.
Hand prime engine oil pump. Use a speed handle with a flat blade screw driver socket attachment. You can also modify an old distributor for this task.
Prime oil system until oil flows from all rocker arms. Stop hand prime of system. Allow 5 mins. For oil drain back into oil pan.
Insert oil dipstick into engine. Check accuracy of marks. Stick should read 1 quart low. If stick needs to insert deeper, top of dip stick tube may be trimmed. You may also just make your own new file mark on stick. Add final quart of oil to engine. Check or file mark stick for correct full level.
Slide round distributor gasket up onto distributor body from bottom of distributor.
Install spark plug wires in correct firing order into cap. All engines use the same firing order of 1-5-6-3-4-2-7-8. This order follows a clockwise rotation from the #1 plug wire terminal of distributor cap. #1 terminal is located in different positions on point style or HEI distributors. See prior photos for correct locations.
Cylinders are numbered from front of engine to back. Passenger side of engine has cylinder #?s 1-3-5-7. Driver side of engine has cylinder #?s 2-4-6-8.
Double check wire placement and firing order.
Don't despair my friend. I'm in the same situation with my projects, and so are many of my other auto hobby friends. I actually read some research on 'adults participation in their
areas of interest', and it stated that 80% of car/auto guys only got as far as reading magazines. Due to time, money, life responsibilities,etc, thats as far as they can get into the hobby.
areas of interest', and it stated that 80% of car/auto guys only got as far as reading magazines. Due to time, money, life responsibilities,etc, thats as far as they can get into the hobby.
whitfimb
Well-known member
Engineer said:My molding is off of a 1991 V-1500 Suburban, so yes, it is factory GM. The little molding on the cab is new GM from a 1988~98 C/K truck since GM never built the R/V series' regular cab with this trim. When I mount my bed sides I will use the trim from a 88~98 C/K longbed since the 89~91 R/V3500 never had this trim either.
91 Suburban Blazer trim install NOTES : ~
Before peeling it off of the doors, measured from the body line down to the top of the molding. It should measure 12", so when installing you measure down 12" from the body line, and then mark with the body with masking tape. When installing the molding, line it up to the masking tape, then just pull the masking tape off.
Use a 36" stainless steel ruler to keep every thing straight. Also, use 3M two sided foam tape. It is specifically for the molding. You have to be careful using this stuff. After you stick it to the truck, it is there... FOREVER
Super Custom Fold and tumble Tahoe 3rd row leather seat in a crew cab ~
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=381424&page=7
whitfimb
Well-known member
Just taking notes for now ~ new fuel tank / sender/ straps /fuel line / filler hose in hand. Fuel system & carb / and entire cooling system will get completed next week. Then on to ignition and exhaust...
While stuck at work = (watching paint dry), I'm doing lots of research and studying for other pieces of the puzzle ~ when i find the answer I cut / paste and drop in this thread for future reference.
Project Crunchy Taco (99 Tacoma on 35's) is at the body shop for rear frame and paint ~ but no updates ~ meanwhile Free storage is a good thing.
While stuck at work = (watching paint dry), I'm doing lots of research and studying for other pieces of the puzzle ~ when i find the answer I cut / paste and drop in this thread for future reference.
Project Crunchy Taco (99 Tacoma on 35's) is at the body shop for rear frame and paint ~ but no updates ~ meanwhile Free storage is a good thing.
