letsgomuddin85
Well-known member
☼ does anyone have any pictures of this ☼
How to wire a push button start
- Thread starter GRIZZ
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letsgomuddin85
Well-known member
? where is the stock loacation for the clutch saftey switch i think that might be wrong with my samurai it wont start ?
letsgomuddin85
Well-known member
? i thought it was by the clutch peddle ok thanks ?
letsgomuddin85
Well-known member
letsgomuddin85
Well-known member
? any opjections? or any other way to do this thats easier ??
This thread is getting old but gotta tell you this one! In my old 1959 Chevy( back in the early 70's, when I was A Kid) 4x Apache we put in a push button start that was connected to the HORN! The Start button was off to the side hidden. So i'd ask A friend to go bring the truck over ...and hear the horn and a bang as they hit there head on the roof of the rig. Keep that one in mind. Pete
letsgomuddin85
Well-known member
thats a good one
djeph
Well-known member
[lol]Longbow53 said:
That. Is. Awesome.
I've got a few idea's for this push button start idea, none of which I'm going to reveal right now. I will be a doing a write up on it soon, so hopefully that can help out a bunch of other people.
I think it'd be great to have the hidden push button start, but leave the ignition in place with the key in at all times. Then if someone tries to start the car with the key, the horn, flashers, and windshield wipers go off.
A little more of a wiring nightmare I'm sure, but I think it would be worth it to see a few people get hit with that one.
letsgomuddin85
Well-known member
thats my plan
JonnyLonesome
Member
If you really wanted to gat crafty, you could wire a magnetic microswitch inline with the push button and hide it behind the dash somewhere!
then when you get in the zuk, sweep over that area of the dash with a magnet and push the start button! voila. Basically, you cant get the pushbutton to start the truck until the magnetic switch is made! Cheap security system unless you tell everybody! 8)
then when you get in the zuk, sweep over that area of the dash with a magnet and push the start button! voila. Basically, you cant get the pushbutton to start the truck until the magnetic switch is made! Cheap security system unless you tell everybody! 8)
letsgomuddin85
Well-known member
where would you get one of these
djeph
Well-known member
Ok... This is along the same lines of thinking I was going for. Instead of a magnetic switch, I'm going to go with an RFID setup.JonnyLonesome said:
I picked up my RFID kit from ebay for $13 shipped.
http://cgi.ebay.com/RFID-Reader-transponder-key-fob-security_W0QQitemZ260276582843QQihZ016QQcategoryZ94830QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
There ya go. My secret is out.
I plan on installing a relay between the ignition and the starter, hence a poor man's starter kill. So even if someone tried to hotwire my zuk, the most they would do is blow a few fuses. I've had a few other idea's of what this could control as well. Since it basically opens or closes an electrical circuit, you could have multiple relay's hooked up to this one switch.
JonnyLonesome
Member
Ok, I had the longest weekend of my life!
Sorry to take so long to reply guys, 2 much work not enough indoor a/c time, anyways This is the diagram I whipped up with the part numbers for the relay, diode, and switch also. 8)Hope this helps! If anyone has some how to questions, I'll be glad to help.
If this is too confusing for you, quit now and get a buddy to help or pm me, and I'll put it together as an already made kit with simple to follow instructions. There's only about $20 in parts here, so If Ihave to go get the stuff, do it all for you and ship too, I'm unfortunately gonna have to get like $40 for that (my truck doesn't run on love, neither do I)
Sorry to take so long to reply guys, 2 much work not enough indoor a/c time, anyways This is the diagram I whipped up with the part numbers for the relay, diode, and switch also. 8)Hope this helps! If anyone has some how to questions, I'll be glad to help.
If this is too confusing for you, quit now and get a buddy to help or pm me, and I'll put it together as an already made kit with simple to follow instructions. There's only about $20 in parts here, so If Ihave to go get the stuff, do it all for you and ship too, I'm unfortunately gonna have to get like $40 for that (my truck doesn't run on love, neither do I)
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JonnyLonesome
Member
Don't forget that any momentary contact switch will work in place of the magnetic switch, so you could use a push button. I'm sure people can think of any number of momentary contact things that would also work.
You may also want to wire a hidden toggle switch to jump between pins 1 and 3 to provide a "valet" mode should you ever need to take your truck in somewhere to be serviced... [red_s]
I wish it was all my idea but I remember reading about doing the whole reed switch somewhere about five years ago, I loved the idea and ran with it! Havent done one lately, although I really should.
I'd be glad to answer any questions if anybody is still reading this waaaay old post
You may also want to wire a hidden toggle switch to jump between pins 1 and 3 to provide a "valet" mode should you ever need to take your truck in somewhere to be serviced... [red_s]
I wish it was all my idea but I remember reading about doing the whole reed switch somewhere about five years ago, I loved the idea and ran with it! Havent done one lately, although I really should.
I'd be glad to answer any questions if anybody is still reading this waaaay old post
letsgomuddin85
Well-known member
im still reading this this seems awsome do you have any pictures of yours done? i would run the magnetic strip under the cap on the steering wheel and do you have any step by steps of this thank you
JonnyLonesome
Member
I'm not totally sure about the "under-the-cap" idea, although its very creative placement!
Here's why, The contacts to your horn are in close proximity to the proposed placement of your reed switch. Honking the horn will undoubtedly create a small amout of EMF, maybe enough to latch the reed switch, I dunno.
Basically, the reed switch isn't picky about its source of magnetism, be it an electromagnet or permanent magnet, its all the same to the switch, it will "latch" given a suitable magnetic feild!
I haven't tested the magnetic reed switches against electromagnetic interference to give you a for sure "yes it will work" or "no, pick another spot" You might take this info into consideration when choosing placement options, though. Btw, If you do try the horn cap location, whether it works there or not, I'd be interested to know what you find out. Also, Try to avoid close proximity to relays or headlight wiring as they tend to have alot higher EMF than virtually any other circuit in your harness.
Here's why, The contacts to your horn are in close proximity to the proposed placement of your reed switch. Honking the horn will undoubtedly create a small amout of EMF, maybe enough to latch the reed switch, I dunno.
Basically, the reed switch isn't picky about its source of magnetism, be it an electromagnet or permanent magnet, its all the same to the switch, it will "latch" given a suitable magnetic feild!
I haven't tested the magnetic reed switches against electromagnetic interference to give you a for sure "yes it will work" or "no, pick another spot" You might take this info into consideration when choosing placement options, though. Btw, If you do try the horn cap location, whether it works there or not, I'd be interested to know what you find out. Also, Try to avoid close proximity to relays or headlight wiring as they tend to have alot higher EMF than virtually any other circuit in your harness.
JonnyLonesome
Member
I'll put a kit together for my XJ and take some pics installing it, hope to post it this weekend, maybe sooner. Wish my tintop was together, I'd just make it easy on everybody. However, If you had the parts and the wiring diagram in front of you, it should be a really straighforward process (think Harbor Freight air horn kit) , you will however, have to find the wire that powers up either the accessory position, or the start position on the tumbler. Its really up to you, which way you want to do that. The difference between them would be the timing of when you would swipe the magnet.
example:
*If wired across the accessory hot wire, you would swipe the magnet, turn the key
to acc, then start.
*If wired across the starter hot wire, you would turn the key to acc, then swipe the magnet, then start.
I personally prefer the latter choice, as the average person would be unaware to your mod. If you had my key(or a dent puller!) and attempted to start my car and the radio came on, but it didn't engage the starter, you'd prob think I had an actual issue to fix, and decide not to take my car cause it's a brokedown hoopty.
But if you put the key in and it did nothing one might suspect some sort of anti-theft system is in place, and possibly try to find it and beat it and take your ride. :-[
, you will however, have to find the wire that powers up either the accessory position, or the start position on the tumbler. Its really up to you, which way you want to do that. The difference between them would be the timing of when you would swipe the magnet. example:
*If wired across the accessory hot wire, you would swipe the magnet, turn the key
to acc, then start.
*If wired across the starter hot wire, you would turn the key to acc, then swipe the magnet, then start.
I personally prefer the latter choice, as the average person would be unaware to your mod. If you had my key(or a dent puller!) and attempted to start my car and the radio came on, but it didn't engage the starter, you'd prob think I had an actual issue to fix, and decide not to take my car cause it's a brokedown hoopty.
But if you put the key in and it did nothing one might suspect some sort of anti-theft system is in place, and possibly try to find it and beat it and take your ride. :-[
JonnyLonesome
Member
If this seems to be out of you skill set, the RFID kit from an earlier post is virtually identical in purpose, and ALOT more user friendly to the average person. I will say, however that if you aren't sold on the magnetic reed switch idea, that a simple momentary switch hidden in a discreet location makes things much easier.
