How to pour a spool....

If this is like the stuff we used you have only a couple of min. before everything is hard.  We used it to epoxy rods in concrete and you could put it in a horizontal hole and you had to hurry or it was to hard to put the rod in.  We used manilla evelopes to pour it and it never got hot enough to hurt it.  It had got hard to the touch before it got hot to the touch.
 
Zukitough
I dont think this stuff can be easily removed once it has set.. I think if it fails your screwed, I just dont see it coming out easily.
I will use a hole saw and cut some big holes in a small coffee can, cover holes with duct tape and pour to see if tape fails. I'll try that this weekend.
I know in 90 degree heat it will take about 20- 30 minutes for the socket fast to set, before its safe to pull test. In cooler weather its often over an hour before its safe to pull test on. Another factor for time is the amount used on a pour.
Personally i think it work fine, or atleast in my application it would. The zuk I have now is not a hard core wheeler.  Let me do some heat testing this weekend, Ill post pics with details.
Why are the lead filled units failing? Seems to me it would be a combo of heat and  the soft nature of lead.
Once I get the pics and info Ill start another post called-- Poured Lockers.
 
Only problem I see with your socket fast is the curing time. One reason I did the lead is because of the fact that you have to put in an axle shaft on the bottom side of the carrier to keep the lead from pouring out while your are pouring it in. It's also easy enough to "wrestle" the shaft out of the side gear should the lead try to lock it in place and then you can clean up the splines of the side gear easy enough with a scratch awl or the like, whereas you would not be able to do this with your socket fast. :-\\\\  I just don't think that your stuff will produce good results in this app, but then again, I have been wrong once before. ;D
 
ZUKIMON, it may not work......its been along time since  I have seen the inside of zuk dif. From what I remember the spider gears sit in a carrier housing with the cross pin/axle aligning them, axles come in from each side. The carrrier with the spiders had "windows" and on each side  the axles fit flush with the inside of carrier. If that is true it should work. You could even use a high heat tape to seal off all openings excpt the pour opening. If someone has a stock rear 3rd center chunk to sell cheap I will be the ginnea pig. My zuk is a 100 miles away from home. It would be very cool if this worked, its harder than lead, not affected by temps like lead, plus does not change the temperment of the metal like a Lincoln locker.
Can someone post pics of what a stock center chunk looks like?
Iam thinking once the stock center chunk is out, turn it pinion down,degrease it ,  tape off the carrier openings except one, tape off the inside of the spiders that axles fit in and pour.
Like I said before its been along time since I have seen the inside of Zuk dif......
 
Anyone else have any long-term reports on this  ??? I'm guessing here, but seems like one benefit that hasn't been talked about here: the lead being soft (and possibly prone to failure) may save the axles / u-joints etc. Doesn't sound like (so far) anyone's broke anything but the soft lead... which can be re-heated and re-poured right?
 
i saw at the begining of the forum that you said you chose a 90 and up front diff for the 4 pin carrier. i thought all the front ends had 2 pin? if it is a four pin can i just use a locker for the rear up front to? or do i need to change something?
 
naracermcb said:
i saw at the begining of the forum that you said you chose a 90 and up front diff for the 4 pin carrier. i thought all the front ends had 2 pin? if it is a four pin can i just use a locker for the rear up front to? or do i need to change something?
Click to expand...

86-88 samurai front carriers are 4 pin.
88.5 and up samurai front carriers are 2 pin.
All samurai rear carriers are 4 pin.
All trackick front carriers are 2 pin.
 
Pure lead, as used for muzzleloaders and black powder cartridge arms, has a Brinell hardness of about 5; wheel weights have a brinell hardness of about 8 or 9. Linotype has a brinell hardness of about 22, making it an excellent alloy of bullet casting.

Wheel weights, are composed roughly of 95.5% lead, 4% antimony, and 0.5 % tin. Tin is added to increase the ?filling out? of the mould... Antimony is used to give some molecular level hardness to the lead. Too much antimony in the lead alloy and the metal can actually become brittle enough to break on dropping. To get the best results, both tin and antimony must be present.


Here's an article discussing how to make wheel weight lead alloy about has hard at the Linotype:
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/alloyhardness/index.asp
Through heat-treating methods alone, they actually got the wheel weight lead harder (Brinell hardness of 30-45 depending on method) than the Linotype. Generally in metallurgy hardness = brittleness, so how all this will translate into longevity of the "cast locker" I don't know. I also wonder if adding a little tin (solder?) would help make the lead fill into the gears more tightly?
 
When my computer will open the Surplus rifle page I'll have t ocheck that out.  Otherwise, I like the idea of making cheap wheel weights hard enough to not lead my 44 Mag, I am also wondering why linotype wouldn't be better, I can't see it being that much more brittle, I've used it for 35K psi cast rifle bullets and all was just fine
 
    I have been reading this thread for a long time... very interesting. I think the brinell/  of the different alloys
raises another question that need to thought through. Which is... might it be possible to use an alloy that was hard enough, that IF/WHEN it fails, the loose pieces would actually DAMAGE  the gears faces? Another question is...what is the right balance between hard and soft to "absorb" the shock loads without fracturing or shattering?  Harder is not always better.
    A good example that comes to mind, is the Axles used for hard-core drag racing...they are actually "softer"
than the ones in your daily driver. The reason is so they FLEX, and absorb shock loads.
    Finding that "balance" between strength and durability. Someone on this thread made a good point...when the lead breaks...re-pour it, but maybe it's just soft enough to keep other things from breaking. Kinda like a fuse.  My 2 cents.



 
outsydthbox said:
Someone on this thread made a good point...when the lead breaks...re-pour it, but maybe it's just soft enough to keep other things from breaking. Kinda like a fuse.   My 2 cents.
Click to expand...

This is partially why I went this route. I figured that if I were getting on it too hard, the lead would eventually fail and I would have an indicator that I should do something different. It also felt good knowing that I could re-pour it should this ever happen and I would be totally able to replace each part in the diff with stock peices that are readily available. :)
 

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