How to pour a spool....

we recently took our rear end to a fab shop and paid them 20$ to fill the holes that the teeth ride in with weld...it pops every once and a while but its locked really good...didnt break at zuwharrie lol
 
Little update....... I have wheeled the Zuk several time with the rear poured, and I have also either flat towed it or driven it to the trails, and I have had zero problem with it. ;)
 
Just a thought! I know every one looks for a cheaper way to build so you can have more $ for the other stuff,and I think the poured spool idea is a good one but lead is kind of soft for the force its having to contend with.So why not use bronze for a pour? Yeah I know it takes more heat to melt, but it would be tougher.  M.Z.
 
Never though about it, and I don't really know where to get it either. I wanted something that was basicaly free, and something that I can remove very easily. ;)
 
my father told me that the old timers used to do this, but they used babbit. it can be found as a bearing in the old oil well pumps and stuff, plus he said it wasnt toxic either. i think it is the same metal they r using in the "green" bird shot these days instead of lead. it is also a lil harder but melts about the same. the good thing about a poured locker i would think is if it wore out it would do very little damage because it is softer.
 
I would think that lead is too soft to be used as a spool.  I can see it working short term, but over time I think it will be prone to failing.

just weld it and then you won't have to worry about it.
 
If it does fail, just pull it apart and pour it again. ;)  This is so easy, and it's not like it will really hurt anything if some pieces of it get slung around in the diff. I opted for this to be cheap, and easy, and so far it has worked great.
 
Trailduster79 said:
I would think that lead is too soft to be used as a spool.  I can see it working short term, but over time I think it will be prone to failing.

just weld it and then you won't have to worry about it.
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In your case I think I would agree, I dunno how long it would hold up to a 360! lol
 
Somebody kind of asked this question but I didn't see an answer.
I am going to be putting in some 83 Toy axles soon. I haven't seen the insides of them. Can you do the same thing to them or what?
 
Well, the one that I poured is now out. Ronnie (ronzukin) ran it for some time on the highway and it has finaly failed. We haven't pulled the third to see why, but I is definetly not locked anymore.

For the trail, I think that it would hold up just fine, but who knows. Either way, it's cheap and easy and very removable if you don't like it. ;)

About the Toy rear, you can't do this to it, but you can weld it without removing the carrier. All you need to do is to pull the third and weld the spiders together through the windows in the carrier. Search for welded toy thirds, there are pics somewhere of it being done and they aren't too old. :)
 
My 1st post, I'm an old Zuk guy from 2000 on my last build. Anyways got a new zuk I use for hunting and was checkin out the new stuff out there. Came across this post.....Dam good idea!! I have welded spiders on many zuks in the past.
I work for a wire rope company, we make raising lines for drilling rigs, along with anything you can imagine for lifting applications. On the end of the raising lines are sockets. We use to use lead/babbit to secure the sockets to the wire rope.
For the last 12-15 yrs we have gone to a 2 part epoxy called socket fast or wire lok. It performs/stronger better than lead, easier to use, like bondo just mix it and pour. Main thing is to remove ALL grease from application area. With this stuff you could use duct tape to seal the carrier and pour.
 
With lines poured with Socket Fast (depends on size of wire rope)we pull test them over 200k before sent to the rig, they use them for upto 10 times before sent back in for replacement. Once the socket fast has set its good to go.
 
saltbranch said:
With lines poured with Socket Fast (depends on size of wire rope)we pull test them over 200k before sent to the rig, they use them for upto 10 times before sent back in for replacement. Once the socket fast has set its good to go.
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send me some for my toy axles please
 
I will at no cost to you if you will post your experience/thoughts. The main thing is you must have everything grease free. Once its mixed you have about 20 minutes to complete pour. As its harding it will get fairly warm, to the point its uncomfortable to the touch. This is going to be a bit long post, but I want to explain how we use it, then you decide if you want to try it.

A socket is basically shaped like a funnel on the inside and has an end on it that is similar to a jaw x jaw turnbuckle, this end extends above the end of the "flower" and is used for the connection point. I'll use 5/16" cable as an example as it a popular winch cable size. Take the cable and drop down the length of the throat of socket, use tie wire and wrap tight around cable- on 5/16 this would be about 1.5- 2" from the end. Then you seperate each strand of cable, bend it out at a 45 degree angle from center core. Then unwravel each strand with a pair of pliers......creating a "flower" of wire rope so to speak. Degrease the flower, pull socket up over the flower, which condenses the flower inside the "funnnel". We seal the bottom side of socket/funnel with a Play Do like material( best description I can give) Anyways, then pour the socket fast. When doing this in field we have used duct tape, electric tape etc to seal.
Back when we used lead/babbit we could press out the  "flower" on used sockets. We would adapt the press's we use to swage wire rope to do this, or use sledge hammers. Basically cut the wire rope up next to the socket/ end of funnel , heat with a torch and knock it out.We reuse the sockets and replace the cable/wire rope. Once going to socket fast we had start using a machine shop to press out the "flowers". Heat does not effect socket fast.
If you want to try it PM me.
 
MAYBE ITS JUST COMMON SENSE TO YOU GUYS BUT NO ONE HAS TOUCH ON ONE DANGER. BREATHING FUMES!!! MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA AND USE A MASK IF POSSIBLE.  KITCHEN STOVE WITH FAMILY AROUND ISNT THE BEST PLACE FOR LED. JUST MY .02 BUT I HAVE WORKED IN LEAD PLANTS FROM TIME TO TIME AND HAVE SEEN THE ILL EFFECTS. BOTH SHORT TERM AND LONT TERM.


ON THE OTHER SEEMS LIKE A SHORT TERM WAY OF LOCKING A DIFF BUT WILL PROVE VERY AFFECTIVE IN A SITUATION WHERE YOU WANT TO TEST ITS DRIVEABILITY BEFORE A PERMANANT WELD. GOOD WRITEUP AND FOLLOW THRU ;)
 
saltbranch said:
I will at no cost to you if you will post your experience/thoughts. The main thing is you must have everything grease free. Once its mixed you have about 20 minutes to complete pour. As its harding it will get fairly warm, to the point its uncomfortable to the touch. This is going to be a bit long post, but I want to explain how we use it, then you decide if you want to try it.

A socket is basically shaped like a funnel on the inside and has an end on it that is similar to a jaw x jaw turnbuckle, this end extends above the end of the "flower" and is used for the connection point. I'll use 5/16" cable as an example as it a popular winch cable size. Take the cable and drop down the length of the throat of socket, use tie wire and wrap tight around cable- on 5/16 this would be about 1.5- 2" from the end. Then you seperate each strand of cable, bend it out at a 45 degree angle from center core. Then unwravel each strand with a pair of pliers......creating a "flower" of wire rope so to speak. Degrease the flower, pull socket up over the flower, which condenses the flower inside the "funnnel". We seal the bottom side of socket/funnel with a Play Do like material( best description I can give) Anyways, then pour the socket fast. When doing this in field we have used duct tape, electric tape etc to seal.
Back when we used lead/babbit we could press out the  "flower" on used sockets. We would adapt the press's we use to swage wire rope to do this, or use sledge hammers. Basically cut the wire rope up next to the socket/ end of funnel , heat with a torch and knock it out.We reuse the sockets and replace the cable/wire rope. Once going to socket fast we had start using a machine shop to press out the "flowers". Heat does not effect socket fast.
If you want to try it PM me.
Click to expand...
only two concerns with this "locker":
1. cant be removed easily if at all and
2. would the heat from the setting process make the glue on the back of the duct tape fail and possibly letting it run out before cure?

i dont mind being a guinnie pig, just dont want to ruin a good diff
 

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