TDI š»?š?š?š?š? Lime build!
- Thread starter k1n3k
- Start date
k1n3k
Desert Dawg
I'm a bit behind on this thread, but it drives. Pics and vids incoming later. The injection pump leaks, turbo leaks, and has a odd sounding cylinder (injector?) but it has made a couple runs up and down the highway. the IP has no boost reference right now and it still does 65 easier than the 1.3 did and no speed wobble! 8)
k1n3k
Desert Dawg
Alright, so I had a phone die on me, I'm trying to recover some junk off of it. thats another project all together.Ā
So while I was getting stuff working, my wife wanted to hear it run. so I fired it up for her to hear!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVPukehf25s
That is the legit first start of the engine in the vehicle!
The next dayĀ I was able to get the cooling system buttoned up. It was a nightmare making the blasted heater core hoses work, but I did get it to work. So, with those done, I was able to move on. you can also see how the new steam port tied into the coolant manifold. It works surprisingly well! The system is effortless to bleed. Literally just fill it up!Ā![[thumbsup]](https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f44d.png "Thumbs up [thumbsup]")
Ā You can see how the crossover works to feed the modified coolant return line.Ā
Then with the cooling system done, I was able to fill it up with water and test it out.
it worked! the engine was ran for 20 min and never got too hot. I had an IR thermometer monitoring the head and coolant temps as I did not have any gauges yet.
With the cooling system up and running, it was time to add in the second battery and start wiring. I decided to do two batteries because I park outside, and I like the idea of being able to light up the glow plugs and still have lots of cold cranking amps to turn this thing over with. I didn't get to many shots of this process, and its a bit sloppy compared to how I normally wire stuff, but it will work!Ā
As you can guess, the engine got fired up again to test the idiot lights and such. I did pin out the tachometer input and the w wire on the alt so that I could add a converter later.Ā
Next was fuel lines.Ā I couldn't think of a safe way to run them over the top of the engine and down to the original hardlines on the samurai, so I made some new line that go along the firewall.
So while I was getting stuff working, my wife wanted to hear it run. so I fired it up for her to hear!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVPukehf25s
That is the legit first start of the engine in the vehicle!
The next dayĀ I was able to get the cooling system buttoned up. It was a nightmare making the blasted heater core hoses work, but I did get it to work. So, with those done, I was able to move on. you can also see how the new steam port tied into the coolant manifold. It works surprisingly well! The system is effortless to bleed. Literally just fill it up!Ā
Ā You can see how the crossover works to feed the modified coolant return line.Ā Then with the cooling system done, I was able to fill it up with water and test it out.
it worked! the engine was ran for 20 min and never got too hot. I had an IR thermometer monitoring the head and coolant temps as I did not have any gauges yet.
With the cooling system up and running, it was time to add in the second battery and start wiring. I decided to do two batteries because I park outside, and I like the idea of being able to light up the glow plugs and still have lots of cold cranking amps to turn this thing over with. I didn't get to many shots of this process, and its a bit sloppy compared to how I normally wire stuff, but it will work!Ā
As you can guess, the engine got fired up again to test the idiot lights and such. I did pin out the tachometer input and the w wire on the alt so that I could add a converter later.Ā
Next was fuel lines.Ā I couldn't think of a safe way to run them over the top of the engine and down to the original hardlines on the samurai, so I made some new line that go along the firewall.
k1n3k
Desert Dawg
Well, Regardless, In the last post you can see the wiring pretty much finished. I still need to run the cables for the winch. No biggie, just need to trim and secure. After that, I moved on to fuel lines. You can see the routing I have in the attached pics I also added in the power steering reservoir to the mix. It was a bit tricky to get an off the shelf unit that fits, but I believe this one is out of a honda accord. Its kinda crappy, I may rebuild it. But the power steering is a DREAM!!! 33s with a diesel? one finger is all it takes! the pump flows plenty of fluid even at idle.Ā
Attachments
k1n3k
Desert Dawg
It still has a bit of a todo list though.
The trans tunnel is not finished yet.Ā
I want to re-do a couple brake lines.
it needs an exhaust
the injection pump needs to be rebuilt
axles need upgrading and lockers
it needs a new turbo
winch needs to be wired
and some optional stuff like a deep cycle battery need to be added.Ā
And a new bumper for the rear
and some cargo managment
roll cage, tube work to protect the body, etc. its a long way from done yet!
I pulled the injection pump, its getting sent to Giles tomorrow to be rebuilt with the proper parts from a stock ALH pump to make it run a bit better. I'm also yanking the injectors from DZ's old AHU that were recently rebuilt and tossing them in as the nozzles are new. A pile of shiney new parts are on the way to get this thing road worthy, then the REAL fabrication can begin!Ā
Wait till you guys see the trailer that's getting built for this little beastie!
The trans tunnel is not finished yet.Ā
I want to re-do a couple brake lines.
it needs an exhaust
the injection pump needs to be rebuilt
axles need upgrading and lockers
it needs a new turbo
winch needs to be wired
and some optional stuff like a deep cycle battery need to be added.Ā
And a new bumper for the rear
and some cargo managment
roll cage, tube work to protect the body, etc. its a long way from done yet!
I pulled the injection pump, its getting sent to Giles tomorrow to be rebuilt with the proper parts from a stock ALH pump to make it run a bit better. I'm also yanking the injectors from DZ's old AHU that were recently rebuilt and tossing them in as the nozzles are new. A pile of shiney new parts are on the way to get this thing road worthy, then the REAL fabrication can begin!Ā
Wait till you guys see the trailer that's getting built for this little beastie!
k1n3k
Desert Dawg
Gracana date=1622601958 said:
nerve racking! I hate the first drive of highly custom vehicles. Infant mortality is at play at that point and I don't want to have to rebuild things! But luckily, nothing major happened.Ā
good news is the injection pump(s) are on the way to canada to be rebuilt! also an expensive pile of parts are on their way to keep going! I am going to rebuild the axles and add the lockers while I wait for the pumps. That way when its done I just need to slap it on and drive it!
k1n3k
Desert Dawg
Odd. Still not able to post images.
Anyway, some progress is being made! The pump is in Canada, but Giles says he's 3-4 weeks out... so 2 weeks to get it to him, 4 weeks with him, and who knows how long to get it shipped back...Ā
While I wait, the exhaust was completed, the front axle was rebuilt, 26 spline chromoly axle shaftsĀ and a locker installed, wiring cleaned up a bit more, and i'm currently building a new air cleaner assembly.Ā
It also turns out the front axle was damaged in the crash the old body was involved in. it damaged both knuckle housings. I was able to fix one with a hammer and rethreading a hole, but the steering arm on the other was bent. So it got replaced. Everything was also painted, and the hubs were rebuilt. Once the rear axle seals show up, its getting the sj410 backing plate mod, beefier axle shaftsĀ and a locker.Ā
When I drove it, the read driveshaft gave me some vibes. I think the velocity changes in the shaft are just too great. I also checked the double cardan shaft setup in cad, it wont have enough angularity to let the axle droop. I'm toying with the idea of running 930 non-plunging CV joints on both the t-case and pinion with a dune buggy chromoly axle acting as my rear driveshaft.Ā then i can rotate the pinion up for less angle AND keep the shaft as long as possible. the 930 non-plunging CV is good to 40* of angle as well, so very close to the toyota shaft I'm running in it now. It should be fairly straight forward, but totally untested.
We shall see!Ā
Anyway, some progress is being made! The pump is in Canada, but Giles says he's 3-4 weeks out... so 2 weeks to get it to him, 4 weeks with him, and who knows how long to get it shipped back...Ā
While I wait, the exhaust was completed, the front axle was rebuilt, 26 spline chromoly axle shaftsĀ and a locker installed, wiring cleaned up a bit more, and i'm currently building a new air cleaner assembly.Ā
It also turns out the front axle was damaged in the crash the old body was involved in. it damaged both knuckle housings. I was able to fix one with a hammer and rethreading a hole, but the steering arm on the other was bent. So it got replaced. Everything was also painted, and the hubs were rebuilt. Once the rear axle seals show up, its getting the sj410 backing plate mod, beefier axle shaftsĀ and a locker.Ā
When I drove it, the read driveshaft gave me some vibes. I think the velocity changes in the shaft are just too great. I also checked the double cardan shaft setup in cad, it wont have enough angularity to let the axle droop. I'm toying with the idea of running 930 non-plunging CV joints on both the t-case and pinion with a dune buggy chromoly axle acting as my rear driveshaft.Ā then i can rotate the pinion up for less angle AND keep the shaft as long as possible. the 930 non-plunging CV is good to 40* of angle as well, so very close to the toyota shaft I'm running in it now. It should be fairly straight forward, but totally untested.
We shall see!Ā
Attachments
k1n3k
Desert Dawg
beekiller date=1624377499 said:
Well there was, until I noticed that an extension decided randomly to start blocking the icon to insert the image.... of course when I tried this in incognito mode before, the extension was still enabled....
So don't mind me, just an IT professional that cant computer outside of work.Ā [smiley=biggrinjester.gif]Ā [breakputer]
k1n3k
Desert Dawg
WOOHOO!Ā
The injection pump is getting shipped out by Giles today! I went with a 110hp build. nothing too radical. I'm going to bump up the boost once its intercooled, but for now it should be fine according to him.Ā The low range roll cage also showed up, wife bought a new soft top for it, and we're going to build a snorkel for it! All sorts of fun stuff happening!
SO! With that in mind, anyone ever built the low range sport cage and have some hints/tips? It looks like its not bad to remove for finish welding/paint, but their instructions are firmly against it. Any reason why? seems straight forward to me...
The injection pump is getting shipped out by Giles today! I went with a 110hp build. nothing too radical. I'm going to bump up the boost once its intercooled, but for now it should be fine according to him.Ā The low range roll cage also showed up, wife bought a new soft top for it, and we're going to build a snorkel for it! All sorts of fun stuff happening!
SO! With that in mind, anyone ever built the low range sport cage and have some hints/tips? It looks like its not bad to remove for finish welding/paint, but their instructions are firmly against it. Any reason why? seems straight forward to me...
cygnus x-1
Well-known member
k1n3k date=1625766658 said:
I don't see anywhere in the instructions where it specifically tells you NOT to remove for welding/painting.Ā I did the front cage that way, even by myself with no help (I did use ropes/pulleys for lifting).Ā I think the worst part of it is dealing with that stupid center bar supporting the dash.Ā It's just such an awkward piece to work with.
Other than that, the only other hassles are if the body isn't exactly straight.Ā Before removal for final welding make sure you install EVERYTHING in the interior first to make sure it all fits together.Ā On mine some of the screws for the targa bar are inaccessible with the cage in place.Ā Not a huge deal but just something to be aware of.
C|
k1n3k
Desert Dawg
Time for some fabrication.
I couldn't figure out a clean, easy way to put an air filter under the hood that I liked. I absolutely hate K&N filters and similar. Will not ever run one, full stop. So I get either paper or foam. Foam is my favorite, but paper is also okay. I also wanted to have a snorkel. I have done some sketch water crossing before, when that bow wave is over the hood and you're running a stock intake system, the bullets of sweat fill the car faster than the water. The lift grants another 9 inches of depthĀ [naughty] but, I don't want to worry about it. If I can breath, it should too. Its also nice to have a true cold air intake and an inlet where dust is lessened. So, thats what we're building today!
First thing is an air filter housing. I decided to plop the filter on top of the snorkel. It should work nicely. So it needs a filter hat to keep water out and off, and a base plate to seal the filter to.
First, a round plate. Its too flat, water can pool by the wing nut in the center. Lets fix that.
Then, a hole with a bolt in it.
Its a socket head cap screw for a reason.
Note the rounded edge. That is critical! it will punch through without it.
Now a thick chunk of steel with a hole in it. combine that with a little press action and....
Tada!
Next a trip to the slip roll. I sheared this out 2" long, that lets me cut off the flat ends left by the roll.
Then A little welding
Clean it up on the sander and radius the corner
I couldn't figure out a clean, easy way to put an air filter under the hood that I liked. I absolutely hate K&N filters and similar. Will not ever run one, full stop. So I get either paper or foam. Foam is my favorite, but paper is also okay. I also wanted to have a snorkel. I have done some sketch water crossing before, when that bow wave is over the hood and you're running a stock intake system, the bullets of sweat fill the car faster than the water. The lift grants another 9 inches of depthĀ [naughty] but, I don't want to worry about it. If I can breath, it should too. Its also nice to have a true cold air intake and an inlet where dust is lessened. So, thats what we're building today!
First thing is an air filter housing. I decided to plop the filter on top of the snorkel. It should work nicely. So it needs a filter hat to keep water out and off, and a base plate to seal the filter to.
First, a round plate. Its too flat, water can pool by the wing nut in the center. Lets fix that.
Then, a hole with a bolt in it.
Its a socket head cap screw for a reason.
Note the rounded edge. That is critical! it will punch through without it.
Now a thick chunk of steel with a hole in it. combine that with a little press action and....
Tada!
Next a trip to the slip roll. I sheared this out 2" long, that lets me cut off the flat ends left by the roll.
Then A little welding
Clean it up on the sander and radius the corner
k1n3k
Desert Dawg
The filter hat looked decent, but it needed a little more flare. so I flared it.Ā
That finished off the filter hat. I also cur a base plate on the cnc plasma cutter, but its literally just two circles. BORING!!!!
I also had a neato part show up!!!
The injection pump showed up from Giles! The wait is over!!
I then headed back to the samurai to start work on it. I had some help.
I have a bunch of 2.25" mandrel bent tube left over from the exhaust, and it fits the bill perfectly. So I decided to use it.Ā
a hole saw met the front fender, and a tube could pass through.
A little mockup, with Luna's help, of course!
And pretty soon we have a fully tacked snorkel.
That finished off the filter hat. I also cur a base plate on the cnc plasma cutter, but its literally just two circles. BORING!!!!
I also had a neato part show up!!!
The injection pump showed up from Giles! The wait is over!!
I then headed back to the samurai to start work on it. I had some help.
I have a bunch of 2.25" mandrel bent tube left over from the exhaust, and it fits the bill perfectly. So I decided to use it.Ā
a hole saw met the front fender, and a tube could pass through.
A little mockup, with Luna's help, of course!
And pretty soon we have a fully tacked snorkel.
