Re:cheap rear disc brakes.....
- Thread starter whitfimb
- Start date
supazuk
Well-known member
had to do the shopping house cleaning and dinner w/ the fiancee monday
tues day drove up to parents put new tires on moms heep (yep mom has a trail side too) was gonna set up the disks but friends called went wheeling ( priority) broke a shock
wednessday been working on it all day!!!!
have the disk on and mocked up the caliper? wow even the E-brake mount lines up to the zuk cable i did sawp the calipers side to side to get them behind the axle .. ( the bleeders on the stanza are on the top.. the axle mout from the stanza (plates calipers w/ new pads and hoses $30 )? when cut to fit around the zuk only alowed two bolts so i bought 3' x 1' 3/8 steel plate ($20 have other projects so call it $5 for the brakes) and desided to make new mounts ... I also had an early zuk (87-88) power booster ( thanks crow) so I bought a 80 fire bird w/ 4 wheel disks, brake master cyl ($17 AutoZone? w/ $9 core) just sloted the holes in the m/c's ears and the bore fit the zuk perfet and the push rod fits great, I had a ajustable propotional valve .. (don't remeber) and some steel lines and fittings ( $25 local shop)
just stay tuned .. just a few cuts and some new bolts away from .. stopping short! pics by monday! ( hey have cam didn't say digi!
tues day drove up to parents put new tires on moms heep (yep mom has a trail side too) was gonna set up the disks but friends called went wheeling ( priority) broke a shock
wednessday been working on it all day!!!!
have the disk on and mocked up the caliper? wow even the E-brake mount lines up to the zuk cable i did sawp the calipers side to side to get them behind the axle .. ( the bleeders on the stanza are on the top.. the axle mout from the stanza (plates calipers w/ new pads and hoses $30 )? when cut to fit around the zuk only alowed two bolts so i bought 3' x 1' 3/8 steel plate ($20 have other projects so call it $5 for the brakes) and desided to make new mounts ... I also had an early zuk (87-88) power booster ( thanks crow) so I bought a 80 fire bird w/ 4 wheel disks, brake master cyl ($17 AutoZone? w/ $9 core) just sloted the holes in the m/c's ears and the bore fit the zuk perfet and the push rod fits great, I had a ajustable propotional valve .. (don't remeber) and some steel lines and fittings ( $25 local shop)
just stay tuned .. just a few cuts and some new bolts away from .. stopping short! pics by monday! ( hey have cam didn't say digi!
supazuk
Well-known member
ok I made the the brackets and mocked it all up on passenger side great fit!!!!!
I'm kinda into good details so I didn't get the drivers caliper bracket through the grinder and file
I made my brackets with 3/8's plate, as i said, but I cut a 6"x8" peice for each. Then with a drill press and hole saw cut a 3" (width at the the axle flange) hole with a smaller slot that I could slip over the axle tube this way it wraps around the flage and cant be pulled off. It made it so i could have 3 holes instead of 2.
I tapped the three holes and bought hex head socket bolts that I can bolt the retainer too using lock nuts after the tapped bracket,
on the caliper I had to rotate the brake line and that was about it I will have pics soon and made a diagram of the bracket. was kinda thinking of selling copysof the diagram for the bracket for like $10 (not in it for really money but i did do a lot of reseach and I'm giving any one that wants to put the time in all the info here to do it with out the diagram. but not about to start making and selling the bracket.
I have yet to mount the new master cyl, propotional valve, or plum the brake lines but it would work on a sami master.
I just want really good brakes/ e- brake ( had a good scare last wheeling trip)
As I said you could just cut and weld the bracket off the stanza to the sami tube to be on the cheep but I was to be able to disasemble it and I like detail
I'm kinda into good details so I didn't get the drivers caliper bracket through the grinder and file
I made my brackets with 3/8's plate, as i said, but I cut a 6"x8" peice for each. Then with a drill press and hole saw cut a 3" (width at the the axle flange) hole with a smaller slot that I could slip over the axle tube this way it wraps around the flage and cant be pulled off. It made it so i could have 3 holes instead of 2.
I tapped the three holes and bought hex head socket bolts that I can bolt the retainer too using lock nuts after the tapped bracket,
on the caliper I had to rotate the brake line and that was about it I will have pics soon and made a diagram of the bracket. was kinda thinking of selling copysof the diagram for the bracket for like $10 (not in it for really money but i did do a lot of reseach and I'm giving any one that wants to put the time in all the info here to do it with out the diagram. but not about to start making and selling the bracket.
I have yet to mount the new master cyl, propotional valve, or plum the brake lines but it would work on a sami master.
I just want really good brakes/ e- brake ( had a good scare last wheeling trip)
As I said you could just cut and weld the bracket off the stanza to the sami tube to be on the cheep but I was to be able to disasemble it and I like detail
supazuk
Well-known member
pics coming soon I actully finshed the brakes with the stock master..worked great... but since i had the firebird one .. i had to go on!
so while i was there i guted the whole zuk set up lines back.. no more stock porpotional valve no funky junctions
just a mast an ajustable porp and lines with 2 tee's
only other thing is i have to lengthen the ebrake cable tomorrow
I think i can now double flare in my sleep !
so while i was there i guted the whole zuk set up lines back.. no more stock porpotional valve no funky junctions
just a mast an ajustable porp and lines with 2 tee's
only other thing is i have to lengthen the ebrake cable tomorrow
I think i can now double flare in my sleep !
supazuk
Well-known member
if you read the thread thats what i did .. i said i put in a fire bird m/c and got rid of the stock porp valve. i added an ajustable one because i had it just sitting there any way. so added it as an option when it was done (BTW yes it was needed, the back locked before the front with out it truly the rear always needs less bias )longzuk said:
supazuk
Well-known member
yes i also set up the nissan mounts (90 maxima and 90-91 stanza) for a weld on for the ultimite cheep brakes (if you can weld?) also if you weld on there is no room for mistake on the calipers i wanted bolt on so i can be able to take them off all so have you elded to zuk akles not sure i trust that metal thats why i made the /4 curcle that uses 3 bolt holes it was slow with a drill press and a 3 1/4 bi metal hole saw blade but came good.
the stop power is much better my next endever will be to upgrade the front to 4 door kick vented rotors and calipers
the stop power is much better my next endever will be to upgrade the front to 4 door kick vented rotors and calipers
morganm
Well-known member
Here's some other rear disc writeups I found for cheaper applications. I really cant afford the SpiderTrax kit so I'll be doing something similar in the future for a rear disc upgrade.
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2000/zukdiscs/zukdiscs.cfm
http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/tech/welddiscs.htm
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2000/zukdiscs/zukdiscs.cfm
http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/tech/welddiscs.htm
supazuk
Well-known member
yes but none of those have e-brakes mine was cheaper then those since samurai caliper (cost more then Nissan at auto zone) and axle brakets are hard to find in yards unless you have a set...
the Nissan set up could be setup similar to the weld on one in off-road ( i referanced this when i made mine)
I would have used the same turned down drum adapter except that it cost more to have the drums turned down then it did to buy the axle adapter from trailtough.
The spider trax set up is quite pricey and you don't get e-brakes ( like the others you mentioned)..
in most states / Provence's no ebrakes would make you vehicle not inspectable unless you got the transfer case e brake that would be BIG $$$$$
total for what you need to just put the disks in the rear
axle adapter:? ? ? ? ? ?$50? ?( with longer studs)
2 calipers:? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? $30? (includes both brackets, brake lines, and like new pads from salvage yard )
bearing retainers:? ? $20? ?( however you could just cut the ones out of your baking plates free)
piece of 3/8" steel? ? $20? ?( however I got a big piece, or just weld the Nissan ones on the axle)
e-brake repair kit? ? ? $ 9? ?
rotors? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?free? ?( used my used front ones when i did the brakes )
a brake line tee is only needed for 88.5 up and the proportional valve I had but you really don't need it
thats $119? its cheaper then one new sami caliper
the Nissan set up could be setup similar to the weld on one in off-road ( i referanced this when i made mine)
I would have used the same turned down drum adapter except that it cost more to have the drums turned down then it did to buy the axle adapter from trailtough.
The spider trax set up is quite pricey and you don't get e-brakes ( like the others you mentioned)..
in most states / Provence's no ebrakes would make you vehicle not inspectable unless you got the transfer case e brake that would be BIG $$$$$
total for what you need to just put the disks in the rear
axle adapter:? ? ? ? ? ?$50? ?( with longer studs)
2 calipers:? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? $30? (includes both brackets, brake lines, and like new pads from salvage yard )
bearing retainers:? ? $20? ?( however you could just cut the ones out of your baking plates free)
piece of 3/8" steel? ? $20? ?( however I got a big piece, or just weld the Nissan ones on the axle)
e-brake repair kit? ? ? $ 9? ?
rotors? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?free? ?( used my used front ones when i did the brakes )
a brake line tee is only needed for 88.5 up and the proportional valve I had but you really don't need it
thats $119? its cheaper then one new sami caliper
