Back To My Roots: A Suzuki Samurai Project
- Thread starter stuntnuts
- Start date
I spent some time going through and purging all of the unneeded Samurai wiring. Thankfully I found a wiring diagram online that someone made, since the Haynes manual does NOT include wiring diagrams for anything other than Sidekicks. :banghead: It surely wasn't written in the familiar style of Bentley Publishers, that I'm used to, but it worked. I removed everything pertaining to the ECU (so many sensors for a carbureted vehicle) and kept everything else. It's funny, the version of the Samurai wiring diagrams that I used did not include ECU wiring, so I had to do some detective work:
Once the unnecessary ECU wiring was removed, I laid in the ABA harness to see how well it would fit, and what branch needed to go where:
I'm hoping once I remove the Samurai ECU under the passenger side of the dash, along with the Air Conditioning module, I'll have a spot in there to mount the ABA ECU. I'd like to avoid keeping the ABA ECU in the engine bay at all costs. Unfortunately at the moment, the Samurai is parked up against the wall, so I have little access to under the dash, on that side, at this time...
I also finalized the coolant bottle mounting. I went with two brackets, so I can adjust it in 3 directions, so the coolant will rest level in the engine bay:
Next on the agenda was the last of the coolant lines. In this case, the heater core lines. The were made with a series of parts of VW coolant hoses and random off the shelf Gates hoses. The Samurai heater core inlet and outlet are only 1/2" and 5/8" in diameter, so I had to use Gates reducers to accommodate these:
I'm pretty happy with the hose that goes from the back of the head to the Samurai control valve:
But I think I may have to re-do the other hose from the coolant pipe to the heater core because I feel like the to-be-built downpipe will be too close to it for comfort:
In an effort to simplify my downpipe construction, I recreated the unavailable Fox exhaust manifold/downpipe flange in AutoCAD. When I got the Fox manifold, the seller included the mating flange from the downpipe to build with, but I may use stainless for the new downpipe. So it would be better overall if I used a stainless flange, as well. It's now vectorized and ready to be machined or laser cut:
I also started thinking about the fuel pump setup and filter mounting was first on the list. I decided to go with the stock Mk3 Golf/Jetta fuel filter, so I sourced a used filter housing on ebay:
Sadly, the fuel filter that I ordered from FCP Euro was just a tad too long to fit. But the good news is, they sent me one right away that was the proper size. So PSA, do not order the Bosch fuel filter they list for Mk3 Golf/Jettas, it does not fit. Order the Hengst option instead:
Then I moved on to one of the parts of this swap that I was most excited to tackle....mating the stock Samurai airbox to the ABA. First things first, clean it all up:
Then mount it in place and see what I need for parts to make it work:
Once it was in place, I did some figuring. The outlet on the airbox is 3" OD, the MAF is 2.75" OD, and the throttle body is 2.5" OD, so reducer silicone connectors were in order. I needed a 45 degree reducer for the airbox to MAF and a 90 degree reducer for the MAF to throttle body. I ordered these from www.siliconeintakes.com They had exactly what I needed and with some creative cutting, fit perfectly:
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/bending-reducer/bending-reducer-p-904.html
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/bending-reducer/reducer-elbow-p-962.html
The MAF housing will be a custom part that the guys at Performance MRP https://performancemrp.com/ are making for me. It's their standard Mk3 MAF Housing with Air Straightener https://performancemrp.com/i-30497582-volkswagen-mk3-mass-air-flow-housing-with-air-straightener.html?ref=category:1389188 but it will also include a custom TIG welded port for the PCV system. More on that when it arrives, plus another "little" project they are working on for me.
I'm focusing my efforts on finishing up the wiring next, and then the fuel pump, so I can finally see if this crazy swap will actually start and run...
Once the unnecessary ECU wiring was removed, I laid in the ABA harness to see how well it would fit, and what branch needed to go where:
I'm hoping once I remove the Samurai ECU under the passenger side of the dash, along with the Air Conditioning module, I'll have a spot in there to mount the ABA ECU. I'd like to avoid keeping the ABA ECU in the engine bay at all costs. Unfortunately at the moment, the Samurai is parked up against the wall, so I have little access to under the dash, on that side, at this time...
I also finalized the coolant bottle mounting. I went with two brackets, so I can adjust it in 3 directions, so the coolant will rest level in the engine bay:
Next on the agenda was the last of the coolant lines. In this case, the heater core lines. The were made with a series of parts of VW coolant hoses and random off the shelf Gates hoses. The Samurai heater core inlet and outlet are only 1/2" and 5/8" in diameter, so I had to use Gates reducers to accommodate these:
I'm pretty happy with the hose that goes from the back of the head to the Samurai control valve:
But I think I may have to re-do the other hose from the coolant pipe to the heater core because I feel like the to-be-built downpipe will be too close to it for comfort:
In an effort to simplify my downpipe construction, I recreated the unavailable Fox exhaust manifold/downpipe flange in AutoCAD. When I got the Fox manifold, the seller included the mating flange from the downpipe to build with, but I may use stainless for the new downpipe. So it would be better overall if I used a stainless flange, as well. It's now vectorized and ready to be machined or laser cut:
I also started thinking about the fuel pump setup and filter mounting was first on the list. I decided to go with the stock Mk3 Golf/Jetta fuel filter, so I sourced a used filter housing on ebay:
Sadly, the fuel filter that I ordered from FCP Euro was just a tad too long to fit. But the good news is, they sent me one right away that was the proper size. So PSA, do not order the Bosch fuel filter they list for Mk3 Golf/Jettas, it does not fit. Order the Hengst option instead:
Then I moved on to one of the parts of this swap that I was most excited to tackle....mating the stock Samurai airbox to the ABA. First things first, clean it all up:
Then mount it in place and see what I need for parts to make it work:
Once it was in place, I did some figuring. The outlet on the airbox is 3" OD, the MAF is 2.75" OD, and the throttle body is 2.5" OD, so reducer silicone connectors were in order. I needed a 45 degree reducer for the airbox to MAF and a 90 degree reducer for the MAF to throttle body. I ordered these from www.siliconeintakes.com They had exactly what I needed and with some creative cutting, fit perfectly:
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/bending-reducer/bending-reducer-p-904.html
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/bending-reducer/reducer-elbow-p-962.html
The MAF housing will be a custom part that the guys at Performance MRP https://performancemrp.com/ are making for me. It's their standard Mk3 MAF Housing with Air Straightener https://performancemrp.com/i-30497582-volkswagen-mk3-mass-air-flow-housing-with-air-straightener.html?ref=category:1389188 but it will also include a custom TIG welded port for the PCV system. More on that when it arrives, plus another "little" project they are working on for me.
I'm focusing my efforts on finishing up the wiring next, and then the fuel pump, so I can finally see if this crazy swap will actually start and run...
Diesel_Zuk
Well-known member
Looks hella good man! If my diesel ever craps out completely, I think I may end up finding an ABA to replace it with since they are cheap and abundant.
cygnus x-1
Well-known member
Diesel_Zuk date=1583938952 said:
Yeah. I'm really liking this swap a lot. So much so I'm strongly considering abandoning the diesel and all it's dirty noisy awesomeness for something a little more civilized.
C|
I apologize for the lack of updates. I'm finding that the COVID19 pandemic, among other things going on, has slowed my motivation and progress lately. My family and I are hunkered down at home, I'm working from home full time, and my dad had been in the hospital for several weeks. Sadly, last Wednesday, my dad passed away.....so I'm dealing with that. 
Anyways...here are some of the things I've been working on lately:
I finished gutting the Samurai wiring harness and sizing the ABA harness, so the next order of operation was to make a relay/fuse panel. It is nothing more than a piece of aluminum angle mounted to the body. It will utilize two relays, one for key on power and one for the fuel pump/engine electronics. I sourced these from Parts Express along with the dual socket for them:
https://www.parts-express.com/te-connectivity-tyco-electronics-12-vdc-5-pin-relay-spdt-20-30a-(formerly-bosch)--330-070
https://www.parts-express.com/12-vdc-bosch-type-dual-relay-socket-for-door-lock-unlock-circuits--330-078
There are also a couple of fuses that I had to add into this harness as well, so I sourced this on ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC12V-Fuse-Holder-Box-Block-4-Way-Car-Vehicle-Circuit-Automotive-4-Blade-Fuse/133311690990?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
As I mentioned earlier, the stock Samurai harness has been gutted and wrapped with friction tape. Luckily I purchased the tape at Walmart just before the COVID19 craziness went down. I'm glad I bought two rolls, cause there's no way in hell I'd go there present day if I needed to get some more:
This is the new relay to ABA harness interface:
And the relays/fuses all wired up....pre-wrapped:
Post-wrapped:
It all unplugs very easily, in case I need to swap out a component or troubleshoot:
After this was all finished, I checked everything to verify that it was wired correctly. I scanned the ECU with VAG-COM, ran output tests, etc, and everything appears to be in order. :thumbup:
My stir crazy, home bound kids were driving my wife bonkers one day, so I let them inside the garage to take their aggressions out on the Samurai interior:
I was at the stage where I needed to remove the remainder of the stock ECU harness, remove the AC portion of the HVAC box, and also mount the fuel pump. In order to do all of this, I had to gain access to the passenger side of the vehicle, which was up against the wall. With a series of Austin Powers style 30-point turns, I was able to finagle it around the garage under manual power and get it in the position it needed to be in:
Up first was to remove the remnants of the Samurai ECU and the AC harnesses:
AC module on the left, ECU on the right:
Then I removed the AC box, which came out pretty easy. Surprisingly, it did not require dash removal:
So much more space under there now!
All buttoned up:
This is everything AC related, that was removed. Sadly, the parcel shelf on the passenger side was cut at the dealership to make room for the AC box, so I will have to track a new one down that hasn't been bastardized:
I received a package from Performance MRP, as well:
The package contents:
I contacted Matthew at https://performancemrp.com/ to see if he could add a 3/4" diameter port to one of their standard MAF housings https://performancemrp.com/i-30497582-volkswagen-mk3-mass-air-flow-housing-with-air-straightener.html?ref=category:1389188 for me, so I could incorporate the ABA PCV system to my intake. This was something he was happy to do and he pulled it off beautifully. The port was placed exactly were I needed it and TIG welded on. The machining, the welds, and the overall finish were absolutely top notch, I couldn't be happier. I'd highly recommend them for any of your MAF housings, block off plates, intake flanges, or general fabrication parts needs, no question.
Close ups of the modified MAF housing:
And some pics of the test fitting. As you can see, the part fits great and looks even better. The finish is super nice, as is, so I'm on the fence as to whether I should paint it black or not:
That's not it from Performance MRP, either. If you noticed in the unboxing pic, there is another "little" part that I mentioned prior to this post. It has arrived, it's also beautiful, and I will go into details on what it is in the near future.
The whole COVID19 thing really makes picking up a random nut or bolt or whatever you come across during a project difficult. I don't want to venture out frequently and potentially catch it and bring it home to my family for a $.30 hex nut every time I need one, so I find that this is slowing me down considerably. I miss the days when I could go into my local hardware store and aimlessly walk the aisles in search of a solution to a problem. As this project comes to a close, I find this is needed more now than ever. Today I placed my first "Curbside" pick up at NAPA, for fuel line, fuel hose, and a line bender.....we'll see how that all goes when I pick it up in a couple of hours.
So that's it for today's update. Hopefully now that my life got less stressful, due to my father's passing, I can focus and get into this project a little bit more than I have been able to lately. Up next is fuel pump/filter mounting, running fuel lines, and ultimately firing this baby up.
Anyways...here are some of the things I've been working on lately:
I finished gutting the Samurai wiring harness and sizing the ABA harness, so the next order of operation was to make a relay/fuse panel. It is nothing more than a piece of aluminum angle mounted to the body. It will utilize two relays, one for key on power and one for the fuel pump/engine electronics. I sourced these from Parts Express along with the dual socket for them:
https://www.parts-express.com/te-connectivity-tyco-electronics-12-vdc-5-pin-relay-spdt-20-30a-(formerly-bosch)--330-070
https://www.parts-express.com/12-vdc-bosch-type-dual-relay-socket-for-door-lock-unlock-circuits--330-078
There are also a couple of fuses that I had to add into this harness as well, so I sourced this on ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC12V-Fuse-Holder-Box-Block-4-Way-Car-Vehicle-Circuit-Automotive-4-Blade-Fuse/133311690990?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
As I mentioned earlier, the stock Samurai harness has been gutted and wrapped with friction tape. Luckily I purchased the tape at Walmart just before the COVID19 craziness went down. I'm glad I bought two rolls, cause there's no way in hell I'd go there present day if I needed to get some more:
This is the new relay to ABA harness interface:
And the relays/fuses all wired up....pre-wrapped:
Post-wrapped:
It all unplugs very easily, in case I need to swap out a component or troubleshoot:
After this was all finished, I checked everything to verify that it was wired correctly. I scanned the ECU with VAG-COM, ran output tests, etc, and everything appears to be in order. :thumbup:
My stir crazy, home bound kids were driving my wife bonkers one day, so I let them inside the garage to take their aggressions out on the Samurai interior:
I was at the stage where I needed to remove the remainder of the stock ECU harness, remove the AC portion of the HVAC box, and also mount the fuel pump. In order to do all of this, I had to gain access to the passenger side of the vehicle, which was up against the wall. With a series of Austin Powers style 30-point turns, I was able to finagle it around the garage under manual power and get it in the position it needed to be in:
Up first was to remove the remnants of the Samurai ECU and the AC harnesses:
AC module on the left, ECU on the right:
Then I removed the AC box, which came out pretty easy. Surprisingly, it did not require dash removal:
So much more space under there now!
All buttoned up:
This is everything AC related, that was removed. Sadly, the parcel shelf on the passenger side was cut at the dealership to make room for the AC box, so I will have to track a new one down that hasn't been bastardized:
I received a package from Performance MRP, as well:
The package contents:
I contacted Matthew at https://performancemrp.com/ to see if he could add a 3/4" diameter port to one of their standard MAF housings https://performancemrp.com/i-30497582-volkswagen-mk3-mass-air-flow-housing-with-air-straightener.html?ref=category:1389188 for me, so I could incorporate the ABA PCV system to my intake. This was something he was happy to do and he pulled it off beautifully. The port was placed exactly were I needed it and TIG welded on. The machining, the welds, and the overall finish were absolutely top notch, I couldn't be happier. I'd highly recommend them for any of your MAF housings, block off plates, intake flanges, or general fabrication parts needs, no question.
Close ups of the modified MAF housing:
And some pics of the test fitting. As you can see, the part fits great and looks even better. The finish is super nice, as is, so I'm on the fence as to whether I should paint it black or not:
That's not it from Performance MRP, either. If you noticed in the unboxing pic, there is another "little" part that I mentioned prior to this post. It has arrived, it's also beautiful, and I will go into details on what it is in the near future.
The whole COVID19 thing really makes picking up a random nut or bolt or whatever you come across during a project difficult. I don't want to venture out frequently and potentially catch it and bring it home to my family for a $.30 hex nut every time I need one, so I find that this is slowing me down considerably. I miss the days when I could go into my local hardware store and aimlessly walk the aisles in search of a solution to a problem. As this project comes to a close, I find this is needed more now than ever. Today I placed my first "Curbside" pick up at NAPA, for fuel line, fuel hose, and a line bender.....we'll see how that all goes when I pick it up in a couple of hours.
So that's it for today's update. Hopefully now that my life got less stressful, due to my father's passing, I can focus and get into this project a little bit more than I have been able to lately. Up next is fuel pump/filter mounting, running fuel lines, and ultimately firing this baby up.
Diesel_Zuk
Well-known member
So sorry to hear about the passing of your dad. It's never easy to say goodbye. Hang in there!
Project is looking awesome! And although you didn't explain what that little bung is, one can only assume at first glance that it is an adapter plug that fits the vw head outlet flange that the suzuki sensor can thread into, in order to have a functioning factory water temp gauge. But like I said, just assuming
Project is looking awesome! And although you didn't explain what that little bung is, one can only assume at first glance that it is an adapter plug that fits the vw head outlet flange that the suzuki sensor can thread into, in order to have a functioning factory water temp gauge. But like I said, just assuming
I truly appreciate the sympathies, guys. Since a few days after Christmas, my dad had been in the hospital four times, plus three weeks of rehabilitation, as well. It was definitely his time and as much as I miss/will miss him, it is truly for the best. Since this all started with my dad, I found myself not necessarily losing interest in the project, but more lacked the motivation to get out in the garage and work on it. This all happened immediately after I got the ABA in the engine bay. Between the mental issues/stress it was causing me, a great majority of my time was dedicated to him, spending time with him at the hospital and at rehab. I'm an only child and my mother passed away three years ago, so all my dad had was me.
Anyways, I successfully accomplished my first "curbside" pickup at NAPA yesterday afternoon, which also seemed like it was their first "curbside" pickup as well. I got what is hopefully the last of the bits I needed to get the Samurai up and running. I'm still missing LOTS of the "nuts and bolts" to finalize everything, but I think I have everything I need to get it to fire up.
Last night I mounted the Walbro fuel pump, the pre-filter, the post-filter, and ran the fuel lines. I thru-bolted the pump and the ABA fuel filter housing to the floor pan. There was plenty of room under there to mount everything, thankfully. The stock Samurai is carbureted, it has a mechanical fuel pump on the engine, nothing in the tank or inline. It does have a basic fuel filter inline, which I replaced with a new one and it will now be a dedicated pre-filter to the pump. A stock ABA fuel filter will serve as the post-pump filter.
Walbro fuel pump and ABA filter housing installed:
You can see the new thru-bolts here, which will be covered by the interior carpeting:
Here is the replacement Samurai fuel filter, which will now be a dedicated pre-filter for the pump:
Everything mounted and fuel lines attached:
I used the basic screw-type clamps, and I'm not sure I'm happy with them. I feel like they need to be really tight and at this point, they are on the cusp of breaking. I'm going to run them for now and monitor them for leaks frequently. The thing about adding an inline pump is that there are a lot of unions for all the added components and lots of potential leak points. There's more in the engine bay, as well, because the actual hard lines need to be lengthened.
Up next could be one of the worst parts of this project. There is a fuel return line that needs to be replaced on top of the fuel tank, to bypass a vapor canister. Looking at it a few days ago, it really looks like I will need to drop the fuel tank to access it. I'm going to dig deeper into that next, and see if I can access it without doing so. I called Jeff at Acme Adapters and he said it is necessary to drop the tank to access this line. I don't know why he neglected to mention this HUGE step in the instruction manual. :banghead: My biggest gripe with Acme, so far, is there always seems to be a caveat to procedures in the instruction manual. Like really....it states something along the lines of "this fuel line needs to be re-routed from the vapor canister" but there's no mention of having to DROP THE FUEL TANK to do this. I'd say that's a major omission to a key procedure, but whatever. Again, as I've stated before, the claim that Acme makes that this swap can be done in approximately 20 hours is laughable.
Anyways, I successfully accomplished my first "curbside" pickup at NAPA yesterday afternoon, which also seemed like it was their first "curbside" pickup as well. I got what is hopefully the last of the bits I needed to get the Samurai up and running. I'm still missing LOTS of the "nuts and bolts" to finalize everything, but I think I have everything I need to get it to fire up.
Last night I mounted the Walbro fuel pump, the pre-filter, the post-filter, and ran the fuel lines. I thru-bolted the pump and the ABA fuel filter housing to the floor pan. There was plenty of room under there to mount everything, thankfully. The stock Samurai is carbureted, it has a mechanical fuel pump on the engine, nothing in the tank or inline. It does have a basic fuel filter inline, which I replaced with a new one and it will now be a dedicated pre-filter to the pump. A stock ABA fuel filter will serve as the post-pump filter.
Walbro fuel pump and ABA filter housing installed:
You can see the new thru-bolts here, which will be covered by the interior carpeting:
Here is the replacement Samurai fuel filter, which will now be a dedicated pre-filter for the pump:
Everything mounted and fuel lines attached:
I used the basic screw-type clamps, and I'm not sure I'm happy with them. I feel like they need to be really tight and at this point, they are on the cusp of breaking. I'm going to run them for now and monitor them for leaks frequently. The thing about adding an inline pump is that there are a lot of unions for all the added components and lots of potential leak points. There's more in the engine bay, as well, because the actual hard lines need to be lengthened.
Up next could be one of the worst parts of this project. There is a fuel return line that needs to be replaced on top of the fuel tank, to bypass a vapor canister. Looking at it a few days ago, it really looks like I will need to drop the fuel tank to access it. I'm going to dig deeper into that next, and see if I can access it without doing so. I called Jeff at Acme Adapters and he said it is necessary to drop the tank to access this line. I don't know why he neglected to mention this HUGE step in the instruction manual. :banghead: My biggest gripe with Acme, so far, is there always seems to be a caveat to procedures in the instruction manual. Like really....it states something along the lines of "this fuel line needs to be re-routed from the vapor canister" but there's no mention of having to DROP THE FUEL TANK to do this. I'd say that's a major omission to a key procedure, but whatever. Again, as I've stated before, the claim that Acme makes that this swap can be done in approximately 20 hours is laughable.
stuntnuts date=1586269223 said:
wow awsome work without the mess i envy your work ethics
I find these made for fuel line clamps work better than the ratchet style and do less damage to the hose when tightening ,one thing they do not have as wide of a variance for hose diameters so you need to buy specific to the size you need ,
melbakid
Well-known member
Very sorry to hear about your father. But, you did the right thing by concentrating on him and putting the project aside for the time being. Now your energies can be directed at your Zuk and your efforts show in the quality of a superb installation and documentation!
The one word that vendors seem to leave out about these so called bolt on parts is "eventually" after considerable finagling!! [lol]
The one word that vendors seem to leave out about these so called bolt on parts is "eventually" after considerable finagling!! [lol]
Diesel_Zuk
Well-known member
I successfully did the swap without dropping the tank. The only reason I ended up doing it later, was because I was having rust issues and had to replace my tank.
cygnus x-1
Well-known member
stuntnuts date=1586269245 said:
[lol]
This observation makes me laugh! Acme makes great stuff but I would fully agree they make it seem much easier than it really is. I feel like they've done so many swaps that they forget how daunting some of it can be to first timers.
That being said; dropping the fuel tank in a Samurai isn't very difficult. The worst part really is just draining the tank, because it's messy. Then disconnect the hoses, remove 4 bolts, and it will drop down. I like to put a floor jack underneath it to hold it up while loosening the bolts.
TTSJ413 date=1586272523 said:
These clamps are indeed far superior to the typical worm drive clamps. You do need a lot of sizes though.
C|
Zuki4x4
Well-known member
melbakid
Well-known member
I have two Zuk's and have dropped the tanks in both of them. While it wasn't my favorite thing to do, :
it's a relatively simple process. As has been already stated the floor jack is your friend. IIRC I disconnected the filler neck inside the cab and then removed the 4 bolts with the jack LIGHTLY pressed up against the tank. I used a piece of plywood between the tank and the jack. Slowly let the jack down. Look in at the top of the tank as you SLOWLY lower it. This is best done with the bumper off as it allows more visual access. You will see the sender wire and two or three hose connections, I can't remember which. Some guys will disconnect the hoses along the frame rail. YMMV.
I would make two suggestions and strongly urge you to replace the sender with a new one. It's not a matter of if it will fail but, when it will fail. The second thing I would do is run a ground wire from one of the sender screws to the chassis. Then you will have a good ground connection and not relying on the bolts through the tank flange into the frame. Your fuel gauge will thank you for it! When you order your sender make sure you order a new gasket also. I even replaced the screws holding the sender.
Keep the updates coming!!![[thumbsup]](https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f44d.png "Thumbs up [thumbsup]")
I am really enjoying your build.
Gasket: https://suzukipartsusa.com/shop/fuel-system-gas-tank-2/gasket-sending-unit-suzuki-samurai-86-95-suzuki-sidekick-geo-tracker-89-98/
Sender: https://suzukipartsusa.com/shop/fuel-system-gas-tank-2/sending-unit-fits-carb-efi-oem-part-suzuki-samurai-86-95-atlga/
it's a relatively simple process. As has been already stated the floor jack is your friend. IIRC I disconnected the filler neck inside the cab and then removed the 4 bolts with the jack LIGHTLY pressed up against the tank. I used a piece of plywood between the tank and the jack. Slowly let the jack down. Look in at the top of the tank as you SLOWLY lower it. This is best done with the bumper off as it allows more visual access. You will see the sender wire and two or three hose connections, I can't remember which. Some guys will disconnect the hoses along the frame rail. YMMV.I would make two suggestions and strongly urge you to replace the sender with a new one. It's not a matter of if it will fail but, when it will fail. The second thing I would do is run a ground wire from one of the sender screws to the chassis. Then you will have a good ground connection and not relying on the bolts through the tank flange into the frame. Your fuel gauge will thank you for it! When you order your sender make sure you order a new gasket also. I even replaced the screws holding the sender.
Keep the updates coming!!
I am really enjoying your build.Gasket: https://suzukipartsusa.com/shop/fuel-system-gas-tank-2/gasket-sending-unit-suzuki-samurai-86-95-suzuki-sidekick-geo-tracker-89-98/
Sender: https://suzukipartsusa.com/shop/fuel-system-gas-tank-2/sending-unit-fits-carb-efi-oem-part-suzuki-samurai-86-95-atlga/
