3 linked diesel sami

went over to island and read your build; very nice!

looking at your 3 link; only thing I could not see was where driver's side rear was mounted.
Could you post a pic if possible?

 
Thanks for the comp on the old car it's pretty fun arm strong steering and 4 drum brakes good old days!
Ecoast here are a couple of pictures of the upper link mount. All mount points I built plates so the link mount wasn't welded straight to the paper like sami frame. It's tucked inside the frame rail above the lower link.





This is an ugly shot as nothing was really finished at the time but you can see where the upper link sits.



Hope this helps and let me know if you want to see any more.
 
I did a little brake work, ran the trails forever with out front brakes so finally got those happening last week. Just have to figure out the park brake, likely a line-lock.

Welded some # 8  3/8"x 3/4" bolts to the diff then fastened the lines with insulated steel cable clamps and Nyloc nuts.





 
pattersonja date=1392056320 said:
Hey Newfie,
I really appreciate the info, for the PCV I ran a 5/8" line out the back and it exits beside the exhaust. It had such nasty smoke and oil coming out of it that I didn't want to T it back into the turbo intake and burn those abrasive particulates. As for oil level, it's the right level on the dipstick but with the external filter and oil cooler there would definitely be more than the stock volume. I've got a constant stream of blue smoke coming from that 5/8" PCV line, more smoke than the exhaust. I may pull the motor again, take the head off and see if there is a ridge at the top of the bores. Also inspect the head at the same time.

First I'll double check the PCV valve and install a bottle, then go all in start to pull it. Thanks a ton for sharing your experience.

I grabbed this motor because it is a mechanical head, with 12mm studs, I figured it would be the tuffest for this application.
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The mechanical head is tough , there is no valve float ,that's for sure .. I have seen these heads create enormous horsepower on the VW diesels ...Hee!!

I wouldn't worry about the abrasive particals , or smoke ... If you use a catch bottle with a mesh into it , it would allow most of the oil to drop away in flow ... It would even help cut the smoke , since the bottle would capture most of the oil , and any smoke flowing pass would only be burned off in the combustion ....

Of course this is if it isn't extreme .... I have mine routed through a vented oil catch bottle , and it works excellent .... :)

I would start with a compression check , and go from there  .... ;)

P
 
Okay so I'm a bonehead! The reason I was getting oil blow back and not getting the boost expected, I had plumbed the PCV and Air Pressure Releif Valve into a "T"-tail exit line, that ran to the back and exited beside the exhaust. When I cranked up my boost Psi by closing off the wastegate diaphram line, the APRV would open with boost above 11PSI and a bunch of boost went out the tail exit line and also back through the PCV into the block. At least for awhile there I had really good/above average oil pressure......
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It didn't happen right away because the APRV was probably glued shut from years of never opening. I took it for a couple longer drives with long steep hills no problems now, runs like a top. I'm just glad when this started I backed off the skinny pedal or my EGT's would have been very high. But.... Yahoo it's fixed!
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Wheeling tomorrow!!
 
Excellent  ! Glade you found the issue J ...  [approve]

I hope you don't mind , but I can't help but laugh a bit .. ;D  ;D

It's great though , since I think we both thought  , it could of been something alot worse ... ;)

Have fun wheeling , be safe ... [thumbsup]  [thumbsup]

P
 
Got a bit more work done the past couple days. E-brake and the EGT gauge.

I went with the Jmar line-lock for my e-brake. Seperated the the lines at the proportioning valve so the front and rear were on seperate circuits. Then set the line-lock to lock the front discs:






Tested this out on a boat ramp close to my house, both going down and up, held solid both directions!!!
 
With the EGT gauge installed I was able to put my foot into it and see where the temps were at. On a long steep hill with my foot moderately heavy on the skinny pedal my EGT's peaked between 12~1300 degrees F. If I had put it to the firewall I'm sure some damage would have occured (possible window in the piston??). How much would an intercooler help in reducing the EGT's while under heavy throttle on hills or rock crawling? I'm thinking an intercooler with an electric fan maybe?? I'm a little worried about added turbo lag with intercoolers on these small turbos.

 
That is really nice work James ...  [thumbsup]  [thumbsup]

Would it to hard for you to get a picture ,  to see where you actually isolated the front brakes for the line lock ??  ;)  When you have time , no big rush ..... :)

I have been thinking of something like this myself .. I purchased both an electric , and a manual line lock  .... Haven't really studied how I would tap into the system yet though ... Just looking for some ideas...

Thanks ....... P
 
Intercooler from a 1.9tdi junk yard find....actually could be anything VW cause it was just laying in the car.  I wanted small and with very little pipe work to minimize turbo lag.

I might pipe a water mister to it from.my windshield washer bottle, have one from a tracker with 2 pumps so one to Window one to intercooler, an.possibly a small fan depending on.how it does.

I want so say I saw somewhere 200 to 300 deg drop in EGTs

Everyone will have a say...top mount.head soak...infront rad.blocks it from working....

Good luck sweet build!

Btw are those autometer boost an egt?
 
Oatesquine,
Thanks for the info and pics that helps and a reduction in temps in the neighbourhood of what you listed would be perfect. Much appreciated.

PS- the guages are Autometer "sport comp" 2 5/8" I install the EGT probe with everything still on the engine in the vehicle. If I had to do it again I would take the time to pull the manifold.....
 
Hey Newfie, I'll give this a try...
On the Samurai there are two lines that come out of the master cylinder and into a distribution block. The dis. block has these two inlets from the master  then four outlets one for each wheel. Here is the funny part, you would think the distribution would operate one side/two lines out for the front and the other side, two lines out for the back. On Sami it runs the front right wheel and the rear left wheel off of one half of the Dis. block, the other half of the Dis. block runs front left / rear right.

So, I move the lines so one line from the masters operates the two rears, the other line from the master operates the two front. Then all that's left is to install the line lock "in line" on that single line from the master to the Dis block that feeds the front wheels..... okay now I confused myself..... I'll snap some photos tomorrow!
 
Hi Folks,
It's been awhile. I killed my mock up engine some time ago but have since rebuilt it and dropped it back in! Nice power gain and it runs great.



 
Not sure how hard it is to see but the blue fittings are JIC connectors, it was a bummer to destroy all the new hoses I had just installed due to barbed fittings. Now all the hoses come off easy and can be reused no problem.

 
Well I've had some time on the rebuilt VW 1.6TD engine & have to say couldn't be happier! Power sustains nicely while climbing, going down hill compression holds nicely and even better fuel comsumption.!



 

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