Suzuki_dude
Well-known member
I'm using "the right stuff". We'll see how that goes. I've used it to seal up coolant leaks before when a new gasket wouldn't do it. Fingers crossed.
VolkToyZuki
- Thread starter Suzuki_dude
- Start date
NoMoreMondays
Well-known member
With the crack that accessible, and it being cast iron, I'd take it to a TIG welder and have them weld it up. Man you haven't had much luck with this engine setup.
Recommendation - if yours is an AHU and you have the computers hooked up, get a OBD II adapter and use Torque on a tablet to read temp in real time. I do this in mine to also get engine RPMS.
Recommendation - if yours is an AHU and you have the computers hooked up, get a OBD II adapter and use Torque on a tablet to read temp in real time. I do this in mine to also get engine RPMS.
Suzuki_dude
Well-known member
If this silicone doesn't work that'll have to be the next step.NoMoreMondays date=1629298025 said:
It is an AHU. I have the stock temp gauge hooked up and I can tell by my oil pressure dropping when it's starting to run too warm/is low on coolant. My stock tach works. Ideally I'd like to make a custom cluster with mechanical gauges but there's so little room for all of them.
Suzuki_dude
Well-known member
Tried something a bit different recently. After mentally building my rad/intercooler mount I made it in CAD. Tried CAD for the fuel tank a couple years ago but it never really clicked. I finally figured out the basics and could design this fairly quickly.
Minor mods to the upright parts that I didn't put in the CAD model.
Here's some crappy pics of how the lower charge pipe is gonna fit. It's 2.5" 304 stainless. Only using 2.5" because that's how big my intercooler and intake manifold are.
Minor mods to the upright parts that I didn't put in the CAD model.
Here's some crappy pics of how the lower charge pipe is gonna fit. It's 2.5" 304 stainless. Only using 2.5" because that's how big my intercooler and intake manifold are.
Suzuki_dude
Well-known member
:welder: It works great. The end is finally in sight. I don't think you can fit a bigger intercooler.
Suzuki_dude
Well-known member
Got it all together yesterday. Piping worked out half decent. Added about 0.5gal of coolant capacity. Took almost exactly 2gal.
I was about to finally drive it back home and it made a nasty screeching sound when started. Quickly shut it down. Pulled the starter out and it wasn't stuck. No obvious marks on the back of the flywheel. Tried again and the noise did go away after a bit and it's clutch related. Other issue is it's only running on 3 cylinders. No idea why either of those things would happen.
I was about to finally drive it back home and it made a nasty screeching sound when started. Quickly shut it down. Pulled the starter out and it wasn't stuck. No obvious marks on the back of the flywheel. Tried again and the noise did go away after a bit and it's clutch related. Other issue is it's only running on 3 cylinders. No idea why either of those things would happen.
Suzuki_dude
Well-known member
Thanks. The simple routing is why I like the front mounts with same side inlet and outlet.
The map sensor is built into the ECU on the AHU. That boost line on the manifold T's to my gauge the map sensor under the dash. It's good and bad at the same time. Don't need to weld anything to the pipes for a swap but upgrading map sensor is a bit more work than remove and replace if you get to that point with your mods.
The map sensor is built into the ECU on the AHU. That boost line on the manifold T's to my gauge the map sensor under the dash. It's good and bad at the same time. Don't need to weld anything to the pipes for a swap but upgrading map sensor is a bit more work than remove and replace if you get to that point with your mods.
Suzuki_dude
Well-known member
I probably won't either. Common rail swap would be my next step.
I determined why it was running on 3 cylinders.
Consequences of working too long. It's not the first time it's eaten a rag. Runs fine with the rag removed. Clutch is making a weird sound and the pedal seems to be kinda sticking on the way up. I'll have to figure that out when I take the trans off to try to fix the leak on the back of the block again.
I determined why it was running on 3 cylinders.
Consequences of working too long. It's not the first time it's eaten a rag. Runs fine with the rag removed. Clutch is making a weird sound and the pedal seems to be kinda sticking on the way up. I'll have to figure that out when I take the trans off to try to fix the leak on the back of the block again.
Newfie-Zuk
Well-known member
Holy cow ! 
You done right thing directly shutting it down .
![[thumbsup]](https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f44d.png "Thumbs up [thumbsup]")
P
You done right thing directly shutting it down .
P
Suzuki_dude
Well-known member
It's been working half decent. Fuel mileage has slightly increased. Drivetrain noise significantly reduced after changing failed damper pulley, hub centric rings on rear wheels, and trans and t case oil change to MT-90. Shifts nicer too. EGT has never been lower. With a slight tail wind I've seen 575f preturbo. When it's totally calm it's low 600s. I know from past experience that intake manifold helps a lot and it appears this massive intercooler made a bit of a difference too. Probably at least partly because my leaky wastegate is slightly overboosting. Against a strong headwind it stays under 800f. Old intake and intercooler would've been 900f+. No intercooler I'm sure would've been over 1200f.
And of course the coolant leaks never stop with this thing. Gave it another layer of tape and another turn tighter but I'm still losing coolant somewhere. Something that was leaking was spraying the firewall too.
Diesel_Zuk
Well-known member
x2 those wheels look good, what are they from? They're 16's is that right?
Suzuki_dude
Well-known member
They are 16x7 from an 01 Grand Vitara. I love them. That's why I go through the work of converting my toyota axle to 5x5.5. Gotta keep these wheels.
Suzuki_dude
Well-known member
Well I took the glow plugs out of the head outlet and welded the holes shut thinking they were leaking. Pressure tested it and the crack in the block is where it's coming from again. Only leaks when it's hot and that's why I couldn't get it to leak when I had the trans off a few months ago. It's probably just gonna get parked for a while again while I wait to have money to fix it. Might try sticking an ALH in, might try getting my CJAA repaired, might look for another AHU, don't know yet. Big bummer. I just ordered new tires for it too.
Diesel_Zuk
Well-known member
Common rail would be slick.
Suzuki_dude
Well-known member
It really would. Unfortunately the money is just not there yet. I was hoping to get at least another 2 or 3 years out of this before I do the common rail.Diesel_Zuk said:
I got the motor out and the crack has spread significantly and is branching off into more cracks. It's almost right across the back side. I was planning on welding the crack but after seeing how much it has spread I don't think there is hope for this block. I don't know how deep it is. I expect it will eventually reach the cylinder wall. I'm now looking for another AHU. They're not quite as common in Canada because half the time we had the AAZ instead. It's the simplest option. If I can't find one for a reasonable price I'll end up tweaking some stuff and making an ALH fit. But I'd prefer to stick with an AHU for simplicity.
Diesel_Zuk
Well-known member
Check copart.ca for auctions. To be honest, I see far more AHU?s there than I do here.
if you want to rebuild, I think I could get you a block, I know of a few.
if you want to rebuild, I think I could get you a block, I know of a few.
