SCREW REMOVAL

You really need to heat them, but it would be hard to do without damaging the paint.  If you can get the head of the bolt glowing, then let it slowly cool, it will come right out.
 
I forgot to mention that too.....I had a MAPP torch on them.....oh well I have the whole thing almost apart now.  I should be lifting the tub off of it today then on to '88.5 #2.

Zippy
 
jmdave69 said:
im gonna gring the heads off and use vise grips and a little bit of heat to get mine out

REDNECK MECKANECK
good luck! the ones i stripped, and there were only a couple, i ground a slot and used a flat headed bit on an impact gun. came out pretty quick with that.
 
yalls zuki is held to gether with bolts... damn ive been using duct tape and gorilla glue. guess that is why it is ratteling so much.  ;D
 
I've tried the impact driver method to get my hinges off, it was going to dent the panels before the screw would come out. I've tried the "hit the screw really really hard with a  chisel all the way around, didn't work. Went out today and got some butane for my pocket torch, unsuccessful.  Exactly how long do you have to heat the screw for? Will a pocket torch be able to heat it up enough? I really don't like the idea of busting out the drill.  :-X  :-[  ???
 
If you're heating it, you want to get it to the point it's glowing bright red.  Then, let it completely cool before you try to turn it.  The heat expands it, and it contracts when it cools, and will usually break it loose.
 
I recently purchased a Snap On cordless 1/2 inch impact driver. This is the best thing I have found yet for these screws. I use a Snap On 1/2 inch drive philips bit and those damn thing come right out. Only had one of about 100 that wouldn't come out.
Thanks
Wayne
 
i tryed everything...lol...i broke 2 good big screwdrivers with a wrench attache to them..finally i just tack welded a peice of rod to them and broke them loose that way...


i like to do things the hard way... ::)
 
I have had a lot of success wit one of these
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=&tool=power&item_ID=7391&group_ID=863&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
Turn your air hammer down low,
and it will remove even the most rusted/stripped headed buggers you can find :).
Peter.
 
you can also do this, I know its gonna sound crazy but trust me it works, Go and get a can of comet abrasive claener, take the tip of the screwdriver and pack it full of the cleaner, I usually stick it right down into the can, The abrasive  seems to make the srewdriver pack into the crosstips on the screw and not strip it any worse and you can put a lot more stank on the screw to break it loose
 
Valve lapping compound does the same thing, or pumice ( thats what is in the commet) or in a pinch a bit of fine sand just wet the tip of the driver and stick it in the sand, brush off the big stuf and go.

Thanks
Wayne
 
jerseyzuks said:
G-Day!? Wow the board has become truly international!

They are pretty easy to find over here.? I have purchased stainless steel hex heads from our local hardware store, and I know Home Depot also has them

Probably not something you would find in an auto shop

Try Tim at www.northcoastoffroad.com.  He carries the Breeze replacement sets.  They replace nearly every bolt you need to.

I use a two part method, I heat the screws up using an electric soldering gun with one of the cutting tips installed.  You just slip that right into the phillips head and let it get good and hot! Then I use an impact driver like in Axel's pic, with a number 3 bit, and bang away!
 
joe dirt said:
i just tack welded a peice of rod to them and broke them loose that way...

i like to do things the hard way... ::)

Best post I've read all day! Much Innovation! [smiley=thumb.gif]
 
After banging on the driver's door on several different occasions without success I finally went the grinder/cold chisel route. Door hinges were off in no time.

Screwdriver - Nope
Impact wrentch - Nope
Impact screwdriver - Nope
Grinder/cut off wheel and a cold chisel - Yep
 
Kermit said:
After banging on the driver's door on several different occasions without success I finally went the grinder/cold chisel route. Door hinges were off in no time.

Screwdriver - Nope
Impact wrentch - Nope
Impact screwdriver - Nope
Grinder/cut off wheel and a cold chisel - Yep

Did you try heating with a torch on low?  This works for me everytime.  Just heat the bolt until you hear the locktite crack and then you can just about take em out with a hand screw driver.  Quick and easy.

 
Kermit said:
I don't own a torch and didn't want to destroy the paint in the area. Would a heat gun have enough kick?

A heat gun would blister the paint.  As far as a torch goes any propane torch will work.  It doesn't take long to melt the locktite.  I did most of mine and didn't scorch any paint around the bolt.  Just put the propane on low and gently heat the bolt until it loosens.  The paint on the bolt will be toasted though.  You can buy a propane torch at any hardware store for ~$10 or so.

At first I tried a impact wrench and broke 6 drivers, and stripped out two bolts before I tried the heat.  It worked great.
For the bolts that I stripped I had to use a dremble tool to cut off two sides and put a vise grip on to get em out.
 
The good news about stuck and mangled Zuk screws (door hinges and windshield frame) is that if you bugger them up real bad they can be drilled out very easily. Suzuki uses metal for thier screws that isnt much harder than wood! Just drill in the center with a drill bit about the size or the threads and preto they come apart! All you need then is a small vice grip or even a pliers to back out the remaining screw. No heat or chiseling!!!!
 
This has to be one of the best posts ever. And I am not just saying that because I am about to take out a bunch of these darned screws...
 

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