my dual transfercase buildup

[szabotage]

got started on modifying the sidekick transfercase here's it is as it stands removed from the tranny

first step is to remove the bolts on the top of the t'case

underneath the cover reaveals the the shifter forks. the next step is to remove the pin that holds the breech to the 4WD shifter fork, knock it out gently with small hammer and punch it may drop into the case but you can either retrieve it with a magnet or when you divide the case for the next mod.? also, remove the bolt on the side of the case and the internals it holds (spring and ball bearing) this assembly is the mechanism that holds the shifter in place when hi, lo or neutral is selected

now that all that is done, you can separate the two halves? of the t'case, here I found to be the best way without damaging the two contacting surfaces between the 2 halves

here's what revealed after separating the two halves of the case

now it's time to remove the chain drive, instead of knocking out a pin I took to the grinding wheel

here's the case after removing the chain

and finally we put the 2 halves back together, ready to section off the front output section

anyways that's all I got for now my next post here I will be cutting off a section of the t'case and eventually welded shut once I get a bit more cash in for someone to TIG weld a couple of plates in to close up the open area after the cut

 

[sammi_davis]

Nice writeup . A homebrew OTT is what your after ?

 

[szabotage]

yup, the only disadvantage is extendingthe wheelbase out (if you can consider a longer wheelbase a disadvantage!)

 

[sammi_davis]

A longer wheelbase is a good thing 99% of the time .

 

[rocknzuk]

do you still have twin sticks or just lowergears

 

[szabotage]

no, there is no twin stick in this one and the gears are stock.

I have a friend who is running this dual t'case setup with 4:1's in his sammi case (and 4.10 toys on 36's) and it's ridiculously low that you cant do anything with the first 4 gears so he's looking to swap back the stock sammi gears.  Stock for stock cases makes an ideal crawl ratio in real world conditions (at least here in canada) in my opinion

 

[szabotage]

back from the shop, here's my progress...

ready for the incision, I bought the longest sawzall blade I can find for this cut since a bandsaw or chopsaw wasn't available

straight and steady...

after 5 grueling minutes the cut is done. ?it turned out nice and straight too, not bad for a sawzall

got some 1/4 inch aluminum plates already cut for the cover. ?notice they are in two pieces, if it were in one piece I wouldn't be able to open it up for servicing.

finally, I had the edges cleaned up ready for the TIG beads. tried to make it a bit easier for the welder (whomever that may be)

so there it is, ready to send off to the welder. last welder I commisioned for the job on my previous t-case mod did some good work, for a very reasonalbe price but warped the aluminum plate a tad making the seal between the two plates have an open gap, nothing a lil silicone couldn't fix but this next one I want to be flawless

 

[whitfimb]

I like your style, THis is right up my alley.  I've been dreaming of this mod for a while.  I will be following along and making plans of my own. 

                                              Thanks

 

[xamtex]

will this setup fit into a LWB sammy ok??without stretching the wheelbase anymore??

 

[szabotage]

yup, you will have to narrow the rear driveshaft tho or maybe get away with using a SWB driveshaft depending on how long your intermediate shaft will be, if you wanna keep the stock wheel base,
I have this setup in my LWB with a RUF/CJrear swap and it stretched out my wheel base to 100"
with that I was able to use a front samurai driveshaft in the rear without modification

it is a tad long for a truck running 33's but that's how I wanted to build it for the potential of bigger tires later on. and is very capable in the steeps. ?all it takes is an extra 8" more from the stock powertrain length and less depending on what style intermediate shaft you decide to run

 

[szabotage]

the t'case I cut is a married design (bolted to the tranny) while the other one is a divorced setup. (independent from the tranny, mated using an intermediate shaft) since my power train is gonna be like 4' long I need to make a super short intermediate shaft from the 12" stock unit. ?

the shorter these things get the more proned they are to breakage and shaking due to the two units moving separately of each other. so to remedy that is to fix the 2nd case to the 1st one as one whole unit

here is the intermediate shaft I was originally gonna use but Iwant it even shorter so I'm gonna remove the u joints and remove the center piece and just connect the two flanges together with one u joint

thanks ,Wes for building the intermediate shaft but I think I'll just use it as a spare for my other truck ?

here is a close up of where the intermediate shaft will go to connect the two cases together

here's a pic of the mock up just to get an idea of why I did all cutting to the transfer case

as you can imagine if the driveshaft was there it obviously wouldn't fit due to that section from the 1st t'case being in the way

here's a pic of the total length of my mocked up powertrain

forgot how long it is but I'm guessing around 4 - 4.5 feet long

 

[wflaw45]

looks pretty hefty

 

[1bigtracker]

any more on this?

stu

 

[Mr_DIY]

this is the best writeup I've ever read.. please keep it coming.. great info.  thank you thank you thank you.  made my day to see this

 

[whitfimb]

If you remove the sammy input flange the splies are the same as the Kick output.  A double female splined shaft wwould make the connection solid and shave off an inch or 4  OTT builds an adapter and marries the two.  I hope to pick up a OTT set up tonight.

 

[hotwired]

Sounds like a great write up, but I'm not getting the pictures. Is it just me or are they no longer being hosted?

 

[nc_zuk]

Pics are there

Ok, so what are you doing to address the wiring for the auto trans?

 

[dschwab9]

If it's an old 3 speed, there really is no wiring except the torque convertor lockup.  It's all mechanical.

 

[samilitant]

If you'll still be using the divorced sammy t-case, will you have a problem with the intermediate shaft since the sammy t-case will be boucing around more so than the kick t-case??  I would think that could be a very bad thing since there is no slip or movement allowed there w/o the 2 u-joints of the stock intermediate shaft.  Also is it ok to use a kick 5 speed manual tranny?  Also could you drive the car on the street after doing this, or high range only go to 40mph with say 35-36" tires?

 

[NissanZuki]

I'm doing a similar build on my Nissan: Stock Nissan TX-10 married case to stock Nissan 720 divorced case. My front driveshaft will be around 40", while the rear shaft will be around 20". Intermediate shaft is 3". Wheelbase stock: 104.9". Wheelbase after SAS and dual cases: around 110" (front axle moved forward, rear axle moved back).

It's cool to see Sammys doing a similar mod. I'm the first known to do it on a "SWB" Nissan. The first known was on a "LWB" Nissan (SWB-standard cab truck, LWB=extended cab truck).

It's way more work than anticipated!