Injector Pump Rebuild

Tusker

Tusker

Well-known member
After letting my sami set for 16 years in the garage, I am going to try and bring it to life tomorrow.  I did my 1.9 AAZ diesel swap in 2004 with a fresh motor, tranny and t-cases.  It was a blast!

After about 500 miles, I ended up with an oil leak from the rear main.  I pulled the engine and changed that only to find oil pouring out the rear main after I installed the second seal.  (Note to self:  don't put a Chinese seal in a German engine...)

Once I get it started, I will pull the engine and change the rear main again.  And use a VW seal this time!

I have a question though about the injector pump.  I think I overtightened the belt, and over the course of time I developed side play in the shaft.  Now the belt is starting to walk off the pulley.  I dont want to scatter my new engine so I think I need to get the bushings replaced on the input shaft.  That probably means I should have it rebuilt while it on the operating table.

I have been out of this for a loooong time and am hoping someone can steer me to a shop that is familiar with these pumps and can take care of my injector pump issues. 

Any help is appreciated.  Thank you!
 
You do have side to side play, or you think you have side to side play because of the belt walking off? You didn't mention a leak out of the pump or loss of prime issues. I would expect the seal to have failed if the bushing was bad. Did you use a manual tensioner? It should have a spring loaded tensioner that you can't over tighten (well maybe you could if you really messed it). It's possible for the pump bracket to be bolted on ever so crooked and make the belt walk off. You just loosen the bracket, move it a tiny bit, and tighten it down again.
 
Thanks for the reply Suzuki_dude.  There are no leaks in the pump whatsoever.  The tensioner is manual.  I will look at the mounting bracket.  I can say that all the pulleys are in the same plane with the belt off.  A metal straight edge lays across them flat/flush.  Once I tighten the belt, the IP pulley is pulled inward and I end up with 25% of the belt running off the front of the IP pulley.  
 
have you verified its the input shaft or if its actually the whole pump? Use a spring loaded tensioner, and then make sure your IP bracket is fully bolted down, AND you're using the support bracket on the rear (outlet side) of the pump. Usually what indicates bushing wear as mentioned by Suzuki_dude is the seal starts leaking. It would take quite a bit of wear to make the belt walk that much, I cant imagine it having that much wear without a leak. 
 
I have not verified what it is, so this helps Desert Dawg.  I will check the pump bracket to make sure it is tight.  I do not think I have a support bracket on the rear of the pump.  I will double check though.  I got this engine in parts in a box 20 years ago and may be missing a part or two.

Is the switch to a spring-loaded tensioner just a bolt on?  If so, I'll make that switch.

Thank you! 
 
Tusker said:
I have not verified what it is, so this helps Desert Dawg.  I will check the pump bracket to make sure it is tight.  I do not think I have a support bracket on the rear of the pump.  I will double check though.  I got this engine in parts in a box 20 years ago and may be missing a part or two.

Is the switch to a spring-loaded tensioner just a bolt on?  If so, I'll make that switch.

Thank you! 
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Yeah, if there is no bracket on the rear of the pump, it will let the belt walk and break the injector lines off with vibration. if it doesn't have one on the back, it needs one.

As for your tensioner, I'm not sure. all the engines I had were already loaded with a spring tensioner. I can say however that the spring tensioner is just held in place with nothing more than a stud. No spring holes or anything. They are also reasonably cheap, so you could buy the spring tensioner and manual one then compare. I'd bet money that they can be swapped though.
 

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