High output alternator

[Rock03ball]

Without me frying this new alternator can someone help me out with wiring. Yes I have searched. Nothing is in black and white to me. So I have a 2 wire pig tail.. which one goes to the #1 spot and which goes to #2. And do I need to jump one to the main + hook up. Thank you for your help.

 

[Timmy390]

Assuming you're wiring the alternator pictured to a stock Samurai harness..........The the black white wire from the Samurai runs from the Samurai ignition to the alternator terminal that energizes (the S terminal in your picture) meaning it turns on the voltage regulator. The Alternator needs to see voltage in order to work. The white wire with red stripe form the Samurai is for the charge light and is hooked to the D+ terminal in your picture. Assuming your picture is correct on which terminal is which.

I do NOT loop from S terminal to the charge post like most diagrams. Reason? Well if you do that you have an alternator that's always energized and that's not good from a fire perspective. You're keeping the voltage regulator on all the time key on or off and it can burn out or even worse catch fire or drain your battery.. That's why all OEM's energize from the ignition at key on.

I hooked up a CS130 to my Samurai as above and it works flawlessly and has been for several years now.

Tim

 

[Rock03ball]

Assuming you're wiring the alternator pictured to a stock Samurai harness..........The the black white wire from the Samurai runs from the Samurai ignition to the alternator terminal that energizes (the S terminal in your picture) meaning it turns on the voltage regulator. The Alternator needs to see voltage in order to work. The white wire with red stripe form the Samurai is for the charge light and is hooked to the D+ terminal in your picture. Assuming your picture is correct on which terminal is which.

I do NOT loop from S terminal to the charge post like most diagrams. Reason? Well if you do that you have an alternator that's always energized and that's not good from a fire perspective. You're keeping the voltage regulator on all the time key on or off and it can burn out or even worse catch fire or drain your battery.. That's why all OEM's energize from the ignition at key on.

I hooked up a CS130 to my Samurai as above and it works flawlessly and has been for several years now.

Tim

Tim thank you very much sir. I have read post after post but no one has ever explained it as simple as that. I hooked it up and took it back off same day. Went to town. Came home. And 2 hours later the engine was cool but that alternator was hot! Not burn your hand hot but close to it. Obviously something was wrong but it was charging. So I believe now that the jump wire had to of been the reason. But the which wire to which was just a coin flip. I had no idea. And yes that’s the same one. Again I appreciate it sir!

 

[Rock03ball]

Tim thank you very much sir. I have read post after post but no one has ever explained it as simple as that. I hooked it up and took it back off same day. Went to town. Came home. And 2 hours later the engine was cool but that alternator was hot! Not burn your hand hot but close to it. Obviously something was wrong but it was charging. So I believe now that the jump wire had to of been the reason. But the which wire to which was just a coin flip. I had no idea. And yes that’s the same one. Again I appreciate it sir!

I have another crazy question. So I hooked it up like you said. I’m impatient at time. Prior to connecting my splice I took off to town. I have a capacitor or my speakers and it was showing 14.1 volts when I was driving. Of course cut it off and it’s 13. Whatever. But these 2 wires was not connected!!?? When I did connect them it wouldn’t shut off after turning off the key. 1 why was it charging or was it socially. 2 what diode do I put on the black wire from the Sammy. Thank you again

 

[Timmy390]

My wiring is 100% stock samurai with the cs130 wired in with 2 wires as I posted earlier. No diodes no capacitors or anything else. Stock wiring....

Tim

 

[melbakid]

@Timmy390

My wiring is 100% stock samurai with the cs130 wired in with 2 wires as I posted earlier. No diodes no capacitors or anything else. Stock wiring....

Tim

Which CS130 alternator are you using (maybe a Lester #)? I have been wanting to do this mod for some time. The "kit" prices are through the roof, usually well over $200. I know I can purchase an alternator cheeper than that.
Thanks, Stephen

 

[Timmy390]

O'Reilly's Ultima 105 Amp Alternator - Remanufactured - R111817A
Part # R111817A

I did have to reclock it. It fits the bracket LowRange sells. I bought a fancy connector from adventure-off-rd but they seen to not exist anymore. The connector was plug and play CS130 plug on one end, Samurai "female" plug on the other. My OCD got the best of me with that. I've ran it on my 1.3L and 1.6L engine in my Sam. I used a larger diameter V belt pully when on the 1.3L as it had a small squeal at startup. My rig seems to pull lots of amps at startup for some reason. I need to wire in a 10 second delay relay to soften the load at startup. I think part of the issue was the wrong belt width. The wider belt didn't "seat" all the way into the Sam stock pully. Got the pully off eBay. Think it was for a early Camaro. The stock 4 rib serp pully from the Sidekick fit on the cs130 fine. No alignment issues.

105 amp is prob more than you need to run. I went that route because I run electric power steering, EFI, light bar on front and aftermarket radio with plans to upgrade the headlights and add more light bars. Mainly use my rig for hunting so heater is blasting as well.

Higher the amps the more turning resistance the alternator has thus the potential for squeal.

Tim