Drill Doctor

Spokerider

Spokerider

Well-known member
Anyone use the tool the Drill Doctor for sharpening drill bits? 

I go through lots of drill bits. Wondering if it actually sharpens the bit as good as new, or if it is a "pseudo" tool...........marketing hype designed to separate you from your greenbacks........
 
They work ok. That being said I have better luck on the bunch grinder by hand. If you just toss the others send them to me ;D. I break more than I dull
 
I had a drill doctor for awhile but decided it wasn't really worth it and sold it.  It worked alright but was cheaply made and didn't do that much better than what I could do with a bench grinder or belt sander.  And the grinder/sander are more versatile.

I think the real question though is, why are you going through so many drill bits?  When used properly they should stay sharp for quite awhile.  I know there are occasions when something unexpected happens and you chip a corner or something, but that shouldn't happen that often.  What is happening to them?

C|
 
Not sure about his, but I know what happens to mine.  I'm an idiot and abuse the hell out of them.  Some things I know better than do, but get in a rush.  Then there is probably plenty I don't know.  Perhaps this would be a good how-to if someone wanted to tackle a tutorial on bit care.  

Naturally retailers don't help the issue.  Take hardware chains for instance.  They have an entire section of drill bits.  But show me the cutting oil!   :o   Something says that's no accident either.   :-X
 
I've got a Drill Dr. I found it to work really good but don't use it much. I Wind up buying bits at yard sales and flea markets for cheap and just put the dull ones up for sharpening later.
 
I haven't had much luck with my Drill Dr. and even worse luck sharpening chains for my chainsaw with a file or electric sharpener..
....... I shouldn't be left unsupervised....... :-\\\\



                                              ;D
 
Sounds like the Drill Doctor is a pseudo tool best left for the dude that must have every gadget.......
 I'll try my hand at sharpening them on a bench grinder as others have suggested. 

As for what happens to my drill bits.......I just wear them dull and break some of the smaller ones. Part of the problem is my drill presses [ yep both of them ] don't turn slow enough. My main press is an old Buffalo #15. The belt is on the slowest pulley cogs, but it still turns too fast for drilling steel. I do let the bits cool in between holes drilled, and I use a home-made lubricant that also helps cool. Its a mix of trans oil / water / detergent [ like PineSol ]. The mix turns to a pink looking milk, but ya gotta shake it up before using. Prolly not the best, but it is cheap to make. The bits do get abused when I'm drilling holes somewhere up under a vehicle, with a hand drill and no lube. 
 
Spokerider date=1449159008 said:
As for what happens to my drill bits.......I just wear them dull and break some of the smaller ones. Part of the problem is my drill presses [ yep both of them ] don't turn slow enough. My main press is an old Buffalo #15. The belt is on the slowest pulley cogs, but it still turns too fast for drilling steel. I do let the bits cool in between holes drilled, and I use a home-made lubricant that also helps cool. Its a mix of trans oil / water / detergent [ like PineSol ]. The mix turns to a pink looking milk, but ya gotta shake it up before using. Prolly not the best, but it is cheap to make. The bits do get abused when I'm drilling holes somewhere up under a vehicle, with a hand drill and no lube.
Click to expand...

Yeah, heat is the #1 killer of drill bits.  There is a LOT of heat generated when drilling harder materials, so if it isn't controlled the cutting edge gets so hot it loses its hardness and wears away.  You can compensate somewhat for higher spindle speeds by adding more coolant/oil (flooding is the best) but it only goes so far.  If the bits are breaking it means they are being overloaded, either from too much chip load (too much feed pressure) or from being side loaded (misalignment).  Small bits require a steady hand, especially when hand drilling.

For cooling/lubrication you can use a lot of different things.  At the shop I use the same water based coolant emulsion that's used on the CNC machines.  At home I use whatever oil is handy, usually penetrating oil.  The ATF/water/detergent mix is actually quite clever.  ATF will provide lubrication to reduce heat generation, water provides better cooling than straight oil, and detergent will help the oil and water to mix.  Most machining fluids are actually very similar, being some sort of oil mixed with water.  The only difference is that they have corrosion inhibitors added so the machines don't rust, along with emulsifiers to keep the mix from separating.


C|



 
I actually have 2 Drill Dr.'s. One in my shop and one in my garage. I believe they are the Model 750. Mine will sharpen bits from 3/32" to 3/4". It does an excellent job. There is a small learning curve required. It came with a video to show how it needs to be done. I just took old dull bits and started practicing. I found that if you start with larger bits like 3/8", mark the tip with a marking pen, you can see your progress. This will help tremendously with understanding the correct geometry needed to ensure a sharp bit.
 
Learned from an old machinist.   Belt sander and don't grind it too fast for it to take the temper out.  
Take some old worn out bits and just keep practicing. It helps you appreciate the drill bits more.
 
First you need decent bits. No cheapo Chinese bits. And like everybody else said, bench grinder or belt sander, it's super easy to do. They taught us in high school metal shop and I still use it today a few years later lol
 
Spokerider said:
Sounds like the Drill Doctor is a pseudo tool best left for the dude that must have every gadget.......
I'll try my hand at sharpening them on a bench grinder as others have suggested.

As for what happens to my drill bits.......I just wear them dull and break some of the smaller ones. Part of the problem is my drill presses [ yep both of them ] don't turn slow enough. My main press is an old Buffalo #15. The belt is on the slowest pulley cogs, but it still turns too fast for drilling steel. I do let the bits cool in between holes drilled, and I use a home-made lubricant that also helps cool. Its a mix of trans oil / water / detergent [ like PineSol ]. The mix turns to a pink looking milk, but ya gotta shake it up before using. Prolly not the best, but it is cheap to make. The bits do get abused when I'm drilling holes somewhere up under a vehicle, with a hand drill and no lube.
Click to expand...

I'm going to throw my 2c in now. I actually have a Buffalo 15 I believe. I thought I had the same problem with speed, but I've drilled miles of steel with it. 3/8" holes in 1" steel with little or no lube and Harbor Freight TIN bits. Secret is keeping enough pressure behind the bit that you keep a good fat chip coming out to carry heat away, but not chipping the corners when you break through. That's a great press. Don't rule it out just because it will only go down to 400rpms. Work on your technique. Also, I've always hand-sharpened. Do a few 1" bits and you'll learn a thing or two. I do most smaller bits without even using a drill gauge anymore.
 
Good 2c catfish.  [thumbsup] 




Here's an informative sharpening vid.  Can anyone add to this? 



[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0SQkzScQk0[/youtube]

 
catfishblues date=1449693042 said:
I'm going to throw my 2c in now. I actually have a Buffalo 15 I believe. I thought I had the same problem with speed, but I've drilled miles of steel with it. 3/8" holes in 1" steel with little or no lube and Harbor Freight TIN bits. Secret is keeping enough pressure behind the bit that you keep a good fat chip coming out to carry heat away, but not chipping the corners when you break through. That's a great press. Don't rule it out just because it will only go down to 400rpms. Work on your technique. Also, I've always hand-sharpened. Do a few 1" bits and you'll learn a thing or two. I do most smaller bits without even using a drill gauge anymore.
Click to expand...


400RPM is fine for HSS bits up to almost 1 inch diameter.  And definitely a thicker chip will help carry the heat away.  When you start snapping bits, then you're pushing too hard.

C|
 

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