1.9 Td crank case pressure

[mrwilder]

So I bought a swapped sami recently and have been slowly going through it

My first concern is crank case pressure it doesn't seem crazy but it does seem to be enough to be causing my new valve cover gasket seep pretty bad. I have the hockey puck plumbed to a vented catch can. But I was also debating on running it to my intake instead of a vent not sure yet. Also have been reading that the vacuum pump could be adding air to my crankcase?

Also seems to be normal for my oil pressure to be 100+ psi all the time what I have been reading? Will probably throw another gauge on to verify

Appears that I have the kkk turbo as well
And may have a seal blown(intake side covered in oil) add extra fuel to the fire... Appears to be the three bolt flange was hoping to possibly throw an inexpensive replacement in? I don't know?

As far as the crankcase pressure the engine feels very responsive/not tiered. This was thrown together pretty quick it seems and I'm looking to correct everything.

 

[Suzuki_dude]

The valve covers seep if the cover is warped. Center bolt covers suck. Did you add any silicone in the corners? The back where there's the D shape needs silicone in the corners and also in front where the seal goes over the front cam cap.

Crankcase pressure doesn't mean anything. Have you seen a VW spec for it to compare against? I haven't. If you're concerned do a compression test. Yes the vacuum pump pushes into the crankcase.

100psi is not normal. The relief should open before it gets there. My AHU would do 80psi and my ALH will do 70. 100+ all the time sounds had.

You have one of the kkk turbos. If it's a 3 bolt flange it's a k03. Some also had the k14. Intake side covered in oil is normal for 30 years of crankcase venting into the intake. It'll seep through and cover the cold side of the turbo. Mine was totally black when I pulled the donor. Cleaned it up and it's been 6 years and it's still clean.

I'm not concerned about anything you've mentioned. Make sure the crank pulley isn't wobbling. Get a timing belt kit and change the bolt just in case. Make sure you're using the correct torque spec for the bolt. Get a clutched alt pulley to take some load off the crank gear. I wouldn't bother pinning the crank gear or machining to a D shape either.

 

[mrwilder]

right on. thank you
The valve cover and gasket just received a generous amount of "The Right Stuff" turning the fountain of oil on my clutch to a very small drip/seep near the front.

I just did a temp crankcase into the intake to help recycle some "fuel" and keep possible pressure down. and kinda a see what happens thing. It was vented to catch can then to atmospheric.

Thankfully the crank pully is looking good, well so far..

so first hill-climb (outside air temp is near 100f) 55-60 mph 3mile up with small tires 90% throttle rpm unmown she gets hot real hot gauge is telling me 240ish cools down quick on the way down I'm thinking air is in the system? I did compare to acme's chart and found a tee where it possibly shouldn't be? highlighted in red in photo. I clamped it off (the red marked line) just now and re-bleed the system. while i was bleeding the system the lower hose did warm up (185f-190ish) so I do believe my thermostat is working.

 

[Suzuki_dude]

What you have there for plumbing is correct. That's the best way to do it. It's self bleeding. You should never have any air in it. Do you still have an oil/coolant heat exchanger (oil cooler) in there? It's hard to tell. If you don't and your cab heat is turned off (I'm assuming it is if it's 100f ambient) you're cutting off all the coolant flow to the thermostat and it'll never open. Ideally you need a 4 port heater valve so there's always flow in that circuit but not the cab. Lower hose being that hot is a problem. It should never get that hot. That means the rad isn't cooling the coolant. My lower hose is always very close to ambient whenever I've checked it.

 

[mrwilder]

I have seen the other post with 4 port, ordering it today. for some reason I thought it was just an upgrade or something.
I do still have the stock vw heat exchange.
the lower hose was cold for a while I had to turn my fans off at an idle to get the 190f temp, and squishing the hose as well to get the warmth to it. good to know now lol

also I was thinking... one of these universal windshield kits for a water meth -20-32f set up. mostly for cooling. all pre turbo don't care to much about cavitation needle valve to set flow, and boost pressure switch for not flooding the engine when I forget to turn it off. thread locker on nozzle to keep the engine from eating it.

 

[Suzuki_dude]

Any engine with a thermostat on the inlet needs constant flow through the heater core. Having the oil cooler still there helps some.

I was also going to suggest an intercooler. Even if it covers the rad it stops heat from getting in the engine so you don't need to worry about getting so much out. Water/meth would work too but intercooler would be better.

Depending how far you want to go you may want to consider putting on a bigger turbo like a k14 or k24. You'd need to redo a few things but the k03 is not a good fit for a high revving Sami. The turbo could be choking the engine and keeping even more heat in.

 

[westcoaster]

I plumbed my crank case vent into my intake after the air filter.
My poor old samurai hasn't been on the road since November 2018....
Motor still fires up with just a bump of the key though!

 

[westcoaster]

I was just looking at your fan set up....
Two 12" flexalite fans in a push configuration?

The cooling area is 113 square inches each (226 total for both fans) as the fans are running.
Running down the highway may give you a bit better as air is forced through the rad.

All I'm saying is the total radiator area is not being utilized to cool the samurai under all conditions. It is only the area of the fans that are cooling.

 

[mrwilder]

I would love to install an intercooler, I will at some point. I was getting a little ahead of myself and ready to waste a bit of money lol. I just recently replaced all 4 glow plugs with bosh duraterm. I'm pretty sure it was only running off one if that saved them to test latter (when I can find my multimeter). starts first crank now.

That k24 is looking pretty good as for a build plan.

love the use of that exhaust adapter i will end up doing that for my final layout.

the fans seem to be 12"? diagonally measured they are but horizontal its about 10.5"

looking at getting a new rad and fans if i need, before i make a proper rad support and defiantly need to move/make more room the lower hose is sandwiched between the alt and fender

clutched alt pully is on the list

as for the list of fires to put out i have the 4 port on order coming tomorrow?
tranny rebuild is my next fire i need to put out as both my sammis trans are a bit well used

I took the rig out in the hills and 4low she will idle up a decent incline. still thinking it has a bit of air in the system after my first attempt to bled it. 55mph (keep in mind very small tires) she gets hot 220-230 ish with heater core on small incline, still positive its air -need to reroute heater lines to be a little lower than coolant tank, pending 4 port bypass valve thing.

shoot what has been keeping you from getting her out? 2018 its been a minute.

 

[westcoaster]

The 1999 2 door Suzuki Vitara has been a little more versatile than the 1987 tin top Samurai.....
Despite the "heat" from the wife and kids, I can't seem to part with the thing just yet....
Hell, I just got a 1.9TD installed in the thing with great compression and a "D" shaped crank snout. (I can bump the key in -14*c temperatures with 4 good glow plugs and the thing fires right up...)
I pulled it from a car with 430,000 some km. The "D" shaped crank snout told me that there isn't that many km on the motor. However, I didn't know that when I bought the car...

The plumbing that connects between the turbo and the exhaust adapter came from a Passat 1.8T gas engine inter-cooler (same place as the angled oil filter adapter)

OOf on the 10" fans...
I don't have an answer for you as to how to improve the air moving through the rad. That'll take some experimentation and radical thinking to fully resolve. Cooling is one of the issues with my Samurai as well.
I would break the plumbing at the intake to the heater core to fully burp the air out of the system. If you are able to separate those hoses and have coolant on both sides you need to look elsewhere for your issues.

 

[D2000]

I also have a leaky valve cover. I think oil got onto my timing belt and now it's squeeling. Going to try to RTV it. I used a Renault Super 5 GT Turbo intercooler to make my 1.9TDI IC system. For VW TDI engines I think oil pressure is supposed to be about 10psi for every 1000rpm and that's what my 1.9TDI puts out. I installed the ACME electric fan system and I keep my cooling fan off most of the time and all the time during the spring, fall and winter (I installed a controller so I can turn the fan off or turn it on full blast and also adjust at what temp the fan turns on). If you put on a more powerful turbo maybe consider using cylinder head studs instead of stretch bolts. I think I'm going to switch to those next time I pull the head. You can torque down more and, best of all, you don't have to replace stretch bolts everytime you take off the head.

 

[mrwilder]

So I ended up pulling the motor as it was its time to go into my tintop. pulled the slightly twisted rad out and straightened the fins. we will see if this helps.
looks like the old exhaust was stabbed into the downpipe causing a slight obstruction. my plan is to wire the fans right off a 200'f fan switch with indicator lights and a backup kill switch for river crossings. I relocated the alternator by tossing it out and using the acme 105 am gm relocation kit its quite nice. new elcheapo clutch. oh and a trans rebuild I ended up cooking the tranny but looks like the owner before me helped as it always had some noise and was missing quite a few bearing balls on the teardown. an amazon rebuild later all is good.

just took it for a test drive and the gearing is great now i can peel around a corner pretty good with 32-33's and just a down pipe she sounds pretty angry.

That Renault cooler is a nice looking unit I was debating on a water to air but this might be the way.
I'm going to put another unit on to verify the oil pressure
the controller is a good idea

for now I straight piped the heater core due to winter coming up. I will throw the 4-port unit in later