SAMMY SCREW Solution

Well after all the suggestions on the various threads about removing the windshield frame and door hinge screws i found a method that worked flawlessly. (i failed with the cold chisel thumping,propane torch scorching and i was warned not to use the hand impact with hammer). So i borrowed a 100 psi air compressor from a buddy of mine and bought a $29 1/2 inch drive air impact wrench from Harbor Frieght (the cheapo wrench actually worked perfectly) and i went to sears and bought a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter and a 3/8 drive #3 phillips bit (they dont have 1/2 inch drive phillips anymore). Well after three failed attempts at loosening 18 various body screws the cheapo air impact got every one!!!!!! It took me longer to wait for the compressor to pressure up than to pull the screws.. So i suspect that any air impact of sufficent torque will get these buggers out EASILY 
 
Cool glad something worked for you.

I had a phobia of the door hinges, but I had to remove the frontclip. So I looked through the screw removal threads and found the blow torch idea.

I used it on my parts rig and when I heard crackling I knew they were ready, and they came right out. Then I moved on to my DD and cause I was outside with the druncks behind me I didn't hear the crackling and well I ended up grinding the heads off. Then when I got the doors off I heated the screwand used visegrips and they all came out.

Phobia beaten

Steve
 
idaho bill said:
i was warned not to use the hand impact with hammer

What are the down sides of using a hand impact with a hammer? I really don't want to butcher my door hinge screws if I can help it. I do know when I used one to remove my windshield frame there was alot of rust and one body mount washer on the garage floor when I was done.  8)
 
I ended up pushing in the sheet metal on my doors using the hammer impact driver.  What I found worked great is one of the Craftsman bolt out sets.  There is one that will fit if you just tap it on with a hammer and they some right out.

Kevin
 
the little micro butane torch work even better, a lil heat and a hand screwdriver will take them out every time...
there is a thread on this  here in the how too
I have seen the air impact .. figmo has used it
 
I remember reading the thread that mentions the use of the phillips driver on the impact. I too have one of these bits, and I can honestly say that it has killed more screw heads than it has loosend. :(  Glad that you had good luck with it, but it didn't work for me. I have almost always been able to get them out with the impact driver, which I also own, and I have even used it on the windshield frame, but I was sweating. ;)  One other thing that I have done that seems to work very well is to drill the head off the bolt, and remove whatever it is that you are trying to, and then use vise grips to remove what's left of the bolt.
 
Personally I have had good luck with preheating using the torch(just a small propane), and then using a large philips head and a pair of vice grips on the screw drive handle.  Works like a charm for me.
 
Well, not having a torch and being at the end of my last paycheck, I opted to use another route. I went with the small drill hole on the side of the head, punch and hammer. They all came out, but at the sacrifice of the screws. Now, what is the part # for a hinge screw?  8)
 
what i ued is pretty simple.  all you need is one of those cheap screw drivers with the 10 different replacement heads, a 1/4" or 3/8" drive with a 1/4" socket, and a hammer.  choose the largest phillps bit insert and hammer it in to the head of the door screw.  then attach the rachet to it and brake it loose.  repeat on the rest of the screws.  i've found this quite usefull on rotors that are held to the hubs with phillps screws.  surely the most in expensive solution to the problem.  good luck.
 
I slid off with the screwdriver onto the paint of my fender with the "hammer/screwdriver"method, I burnt my paint with the "blowtorch" method, I made a dent in the bodywork with the "impact"method, even used a saw to make a bigger slot in the head......no luck.

Then I welded an M8 nut on the head of the screw and turned it out with the appropriate wrench, no problem. Even less paintdamage then the blowtorch and hot enough to melt the LocTite.

SamHingesOrigNut.jpg


You can see the burnt paint around the top nut and the scratch the screwdriver made on the bodywork. The black "smoke" around the lower screw with the nut welded on, could be wiped off without leaving a trace ( just needs 2 small welds on either side ).
 
man.... i have used the impact driver for all of the screws i had to remove on both my sammys and my bros... never a problem, never dents, worked great for me  ???
 
I also made a dent in the bodywork with the "impact"method, My screwdriver slipped, I didn't try the heat method, I don't have an air-impact, I couldn't grab the head with my needle-nosed ice-grips.  I just used the hammer & chisel method.  ALL of mine came right out.

If you have never done it, here are some tips:

- You don't want a really sharp chisel or you will simply cut the metal.  For the same reason don't use one that is too small in diameter, or has a narrow blade.

- First, hold the chisel in line with the screw, not at an angle.  Don't rest it on the center of the screw, but off to one side.  Tap on it kinda hard but don't dent the side of the car.  The goal here is to make a notch you can use to turn the screw w/o the chisel slipping off.

- Second, put the blade of the chisel in the notch you have just created, Bend it over about 60 degrees or more, actually, as far as possible w/o the chisel cutting of the side of your notch.  Visualize how the screw must turn, then begin tapping (hitting) the chisel.  If it starts to cut the side of the notch off, go more perpendicular to the screw.  Mine came right off.

- I replaced the screws with stainless hex-head screws from Orchard Supply Hardware.

- Life is good.

GeoB
 
I haven't tried anything too crazy. Just a #3 by my self. No success. So, my friend (6'2" 210lbs) leaned into it with the #3 and I very easily turned the screwdriver with a pair of channel locks. I never tried it with any body smaller so I don't know if size matters. I do know that 2 people made short work of the screw rather than one man and a blowtorch, or welder, or impact etc...
 
supazuk said:
the little micro butane torch work even better, a lil heat and a hand screwdriver will take them out every time...
there is a thread on this  here in the how too
I have seen the air impact .. figmo has used it

Jay, you are absolutely correct!  Heat from the micro butane torches is what is needed to loosen the thread locker that Suzuki used on the screws.  The micro torch gets the srew hot enough without damaging surrounding paint..........
 
What I did to remove the screws since I did not have any of the "other" tools..

I used my dremel and cut 25% from the right and 25% from the left of the head, then use a pair of GOOD vise grips and remove screw. As you can see in the photo I was not very careful when cutting with the dremal, but I was replacing the hinges, so I didn't care. Then replace all screws with bolts...
 

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A quarter inch drill bit into the center of the head of the screw until the head pops off.  Remove all four per door, remove the door then take a pair of vicegrips to the screw shaft.  They come right out.  Then go to a hardware store and buy some stainless hex head bolts to replace the stock junk.
 

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