heres a few pics of my katana/GSXR carb build/swap. not that hard to do really. the only special equipment needed is the ability to weld aluminum or know someone who does. i did it with a low end welder made for general purpose work. a harbor freight tig would probably have worked as well or better.
my Mikuni carb swap
- Thread starter kelcrist
- Start date
http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o418/princessamber5/intakeboots.jpg
the k&n filter were listed to fit the application i got these carbs off of. they were sold to me as 93 katana 600 but then ended up being 88-90. the filters didnt fit so i had to come up with a way to mount them. these are sewer pipe reducers found at home depot. 2 1/2 x 1 1/2. they came with clamps and everything for $5.00 each. they are real close to they battery but they fit.
the k&n filter were listed to fit the application i got these carbs off of. they were sold to me as 93 katana 600 but then ended up being 88-90. the filters didnt fit so i had to come up with a way to mount them. these are sewer pipe reducers found at home depot. 2 1/2 x 1 1/2. they came with clamps and everything for $5.00 each. they are real close to they battery but they fit.
http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o418/princessamber5/engine2.jpg
intake mounted and water lines run. i ended up not using the thermostat as i seem to have cooling issues. i still have it for when i get it sorted out but for now it runs and drives at normal temp with no thermostat at all.
intake mounted and water lines run. i ended up not using the thermostat as i seem to have cooling issues. i still have it for when i get it sorted out but for now it runs and drives at normal temp with no thermostat at all.
http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o418/princessamber5/finished.jpg
this is the finished product. these carbs are 31mm. they are at the low end of the spectrum as far as performance goes. a huge improvement over stock.......but these carbs go up to 40mm and can feed 150hp engines.
as for mine........it starts easily, idles nicely, big performance gain. higher top speed for pavement driving. much more torque, a lot less clutch. i run 31" tires with stock drive train.
the throttle cable is easly modified by cutting the ball off the end and putting on a screw on end made by barnett. same company that offers the harley carb.
this setup is fairly easy to make if your a moderate to advanced fabricator. or know one haha. i probably spent around 250 setting this up.
this is the finished product. these carbs are 31mm. they are at the low end of the spectrum as far as performance goes. a huge improvement over stock.......but these carbs go up to 40mm and can feed 150hp engines.
as for mine........it starts easily, idles nicely, big performance gain. higher top speed for pavement driving. much more torque, a lot less clutch. i run 31" tires with stock drive train.
the throttle cable is easly modified by cutting the ball off the end and putting on a screw on end made by barnett. same company that offers the harley carb.
this setup is fairly easy to make if your a moderate to advanced fabricator. or know one haha. i probably spent around 250 setting this up.
ok. i will try to come as close as i can. some of the stuff you can use just depends on how resourceful you are or what you have laying around.
raw aluminum......... 4 x 1/2 flat plate. 15 inches about.
aluminum tubing...... 1 1/2 OD 24" thick wall, dont have the reciepts
aluminum tubing 1 /4 OD 8" thin wall for water passages
small piece of aluminum bar stock to weld on port for vacuum.
my intake runners are about 6" long and the water tubes are about 3"
dont have my receipt to get the whole break down but i paid 32.00 for the aluminum. welding was free as i had a co-worker who has more experience do that part. if you had to pay for welding, there is only about 45 mins of actual welding involved. take your time, size your parts and make sure your spacing is on.
exhaust manifold gasket.......4.95
thermostat 20.00 off ebay and im not even using it. i run at normal temp with no thermostat at all
i found one radiator hose that had the right bends in it and cut it up to route where i wanted it
18.00
the piece of 1/2 inch hose for the heater was a gimme from the auto parts store cuz it was only 6" long.
plastic T fittings and elbows from a commercial sprinkler supply warehouse. 3 Ts 2 of the 1 1/14 x1 1/4 x
1/2, 1 T to replace the thermostat and 2 90s 1.15 each
the 1 1/2 hose i used to mount the carbs ive had in a box for years. you can get this hose at home depot or a hydraulic supply house. my mount boots are about 3" long each.
lots of hose clamps. i stole them from work.
barrel end for the throttle cable from barnett industries. this part is made for making your own cables on harley davidson carbs. i cut the stock end off my cable and put this barrell end on. it has a set screw to secure it to the cable. .65
K&N air cleaners RU-2922. retail about 75.00. i found a best offer deal on ebay and paid 45.00
as i stated in the post earlier.......the air cleaners didnt go right on as they should have. adapters from home depot were 4.95 each. youd need 4 of them. if you get the right carbs you wont need these .
i cut the stock vacuum line for the brake booster down to fit. i used the stock line cuz it has a check valve in the hose itself to keep boost up and reduce the tendency of vacuum pulses to mess with brake boost.
i dont have vacuum advance. i did the mod from this site labeled "how to defeat vacuum advance" works fine and i dont need any extra vacuum lines. you do need some for the carb syncronization tool but im going to make boots with vacuum ports for this.
and of course the carbs. i got mine for 47.00 shipped. do your research and make sure you know what your getting in this area. they all tune about the same but there are subtle differences. i see them very often for this price still. mine are 31mm. if you want a bit more low end or go for 34mm or 36mm. .
i have ordered 4 sets of jets, 2 main and 2 pilot. the main jets are about 13.00 for a set of 4 and the pilots are about 20. some bike shops will just swap you jet for jet if you can find a shop with a good inventory. i have done it in the past but the shop i deal with is dirt bike only and they only had one or two of each size so i just ordered new. .
fuel pressure regulator. you need this or tuning becomes a pain. i got the cheap one for 25.00. the one you want is from holley and its 40.00. the only prob with this is you need a guage to set the proper pressure. i dont have the holley setup yet but the cheap one works although it is not very accurate.
i think thats about it. any other questions just ask.
raw aluminum......... 4 x 1/2 flat plate. 15 inches about.
aluminum tubing...... 1 1/2 OD 24" thick wall, dont have the reciepts
aluminum tubing 1 /4 OD 8" thin wall for water passages
small piece of aluminum bar stock to weld on port for vacuum.
my intake runners are about 6" long and the water tubes are about 3"
dont have my receipt to get the whole break down but i paid 32.00 for the aluminum. welding was free as i had a co-worker who has more experience do that part. if you had to pay for welding, there is only about 45 mins of actual welding involved. take your time, size your parts and make sure your spacing is on.
exhaust manifold gasket.......4.95
thermostat 20.00 off ebay and im not even using it. i run at normal temp with no thermostat at all
i found one radiator hose that had the right bends in it and cut it up to route where i wanted it
18.00
the piece of 1/2 inch hose for the heater was a gimme from the auto parts store cuz it was only 6" long.
plastic T fittings and elbows from a commercial sprinkler supply warehouse. 3 Ts 2 of the 1 1/14 x1 1/4 x
1/2, 1 T to replace the thermostat and 2 90s 1.15 each
the 1 1/2 hose i used to mount the carbs ive had in a box for years. you can get this hose at home depot or a hydraulic supply house. my mount boots are about 3" long each.
lots of hose clamps. i stole them from work.
barrel end for the throttle cable from barnett industries. this part is made for making your own cables on harley davidson carbs. i cut the stock end off my cable and put this barrell end on. it has a set screw to secure it to the cable. .65
K&N air cleaners RU-2922. retail about 75.00. i found a best offer deal on ebay and paid 45.00
as i stated in the post earlier.......the air cleaners didnt go right on as they should have. adapters from home depot were 4.95 each. youd need 4 of them. if you get the right carbs you wont need these .
i cut the stock vacuum line for the brake booster down to fit. i used the stock line cuz it has a check valve in the hose itself to keep boost up and reduce the tendency of vacuum pulses to mess with brake boost.
i dont have vacuum advance. i did the mod from this site labeled "how to defeat vacuum advance" works fine and i dont need any extra vacuum lines. you do need some for the carb syncronization tool but im going to make boots with vacuum ports for this.
and of course the carbs. i got mine for 47.00 shipped. do your research and make sure you know what your getting in this area. they all tune about the same but there are subtle differences. i see them very often for this price still. mine are 31mm. if you want a bit more low end or go for 34mm or 36mm. .
i have ordered 4 sets of jets, 2 main and 2 pilot. the main jets are about 13.00 for a set of 4 and the pilots are about 20. some bike shops will just swap you jet for jet if you can find a shop with a good inventory. i have done it in the past but the shop i deal with is dirt bike only and they only had one or two of each size so i just ordered new. .
fuel pressure regulator. you need this or tuning becomes a pain. i got the cheap one for 25.00. the one you want is from holley and its 40.00. the only prob with this is you need a guage to set the proper pressure. i dont have the holley setup yet but the cheap one works although it is not very accurate.
i think thats about it. any other questions just ask.
geckocycles
Well-known member
I saw that you used the black PVC for the air cleaners. I used this stuff too and the fuel eventually attacked it. I think it lasted about 2 months.
If you go to K&N web site you may find the exact size you need for the filter and get that number for them and then search or go to Amazon and get them there. Don't go by K&N's filter recommendations for the model bike. I found that they are not accurate. Just measure you OD needed and the spacing and look for the flange width too.
If you go to K&N web site you may find the exact size you need for the filter and get that number for them and then search or go to Amazon and get them there. Don't go by K&N's filter recommendations for the model bike. I found that they are not accurate. Just measure you OD needed and the spacing and look for the flange width too.
whtboyderek
Member
any pics photo bucket says they are deleted
