EASY Electrical RAD Fan control Done Right and inexpensive! $27.00 (pics)

Skyman

Well-known member
My problem was a direct drive fan the PO installed on my samurai.  My intended fix was an electric fan, but it had to be  self sufficient, I could just see me forgetting to turn on my fan and loosing a head gasket, so here's the solution I found.

Step #1
I found a thermostatically controlled fan switch that would come on at a set temperature with no user input required. Here's what I found.
Fedrated auto parts sells a Hayden fan control for $27.00

First I picked up the Hayden part #3653 Thermostatically controlled switch for the $27.00, here's the pics and the guts (other amps and uses arelisted on the back of the package this one had highest temperature swing,
temp1.jpg

temp2.jpg

temp3.jpg


The shiny probe slides under the top radiator hose where it connects to the thermostat housing, and seals when you re-tighten the hose.
One wire of the switch goes to positive + from your fuse box, the other goes to the positive + side of your electric rad fan. The ground wire from the fan goes directly to a good grounding spot on your chassis. Problem solved (sort of).

I also wanted a little more power/bigger wire to my fan so I purchased a bosch 30amp Bosch part number WR1 relay relay kit to take the brunt of the switching and current draw. pics below
temp4.jpg

temp5.jpg


I had no idea what temperature my 1.3 was running at, and wanted to calibrate the fan thermostats correctly, so I purchased an Equis Water Temp Gauge so I could dial in the thermostat where I wanted it. Equis Part number 8242  $35.05 A pretty nice guage with nice incremental readout/backlit with different colored bulbs red/blue/yellow

temp6.jpg


This could have been done with only the switch $27.00, but I preferred to have a high amp relay and an accurate temperature gauge
After I finish the install I will have step by step pics on how to install and dial in.

For never having to flip a fan switchI thgouth this setup was a bargain.

One question? does anyone know proper operating range for a slightly modified 1.3 (flat tops etc)
ALso any thoughts and comments are more than welcomed.
SKy
 
I pulled a radiator from a V6 minivan It's about twice as wide as the stock sami radiator and has dual fans. I am hoping to use the entire radiator. If wether and my hands allow I will be installing it all tomorrow.

If I am not mistake it is out of a foreign type of minivan the fans themselves are marked aisin... let me go grabs some pics of the setup.

The cool thing, it also has hoses for low pressure power steering or tranny cooler. I will probably be running my PS low pressure through it for cooling as well... here's the pics..can get part numbers if interested. ;) I will have to start my own build up thread again "The gecko do it right the second time hehehe"

temp7.jpg


 
PS.. the whoke fan setup $25.00 out of the pick and pull, and yes it will fit, just some rearranging of the stock rad mounts
 
I use 2 of the fans seen on the left in my VW conversion.  They move alot of air.  I pulled mine out of a Hyundai.

Kevin
 
Working on the rig right now, I will be getting better pictures of the fans and part numbers. You're right! hot wired the fan on the left and it flat out MOVES SOME AIR ;)

Will  start a build up thread soon
 
I never did end up using the radiator, just dropped the fan right in. The fan on the left was  and easy bolt-up, the style of fan on the right won;t work, as there is not enough room between the radiator and the water pump pulley. These same fans are also found on the ford Taurus (not sure of the years).

HTH
--SKy
 
Skyman said:
My problem was a direct drive fan the PO installed on my samurai.  My intended fix was an electric fan, but it had to be  self sufficient, I could just see me forgetting to turn on my fan and loosing a head gasket, so here's the solution I found.

Step #1
I found a thermostatically controlled fan switch that would come on at a set temperature with no user input required. Here's what I found.
Fedrated auto parts sells a Hayden fan control for $27.00

First I picked up the Hayden part #3653 Thermostatically controlled switch for the $27.00, here's the pics and the guts (other amps and uses arelisted on the back of the package this one had highest temperature swing,
temp1.jpg

temp2.jpg

temp3.jpg


The shiny probe slides under the top radiator hose where it connects to the thermostat housing, and seals when you re-tighten the hose.
One wire of the switch goes to positive + from your fuse box, the other goes to the positive + side of your electric rad fan. The ground wire from the fan goes directly to a good grounding spot on your chassis. Problem solved (sort of).

I also wanted a little more power/bigger wire to my fan so I purchased a bosch 30amp Bosch part number WR1 relay relay kit to take the brunt of the switching and current draw. pics below
temp4.jpg

temp5.jpg


I had no idea what temperature my 1.3 was running at, and wanted to calibrate the fan thermostats correctly, so I purchased an Equis Water Temp Gauge so I could dial in the thermostat where I wanted it. Equis Part number 8242  $35.05 A pretty nice guage with nice incremental readout/backlit with different colored bulbs red/blue/yellow

temp6.jpg


This could have been done with only the switch $27.00, but I preferred to have a high amp relay and an accurate temperature gauge
After I finish the install I will have step by step pics on how to install and dial in.

For never having to flip a fan switchI thgouth this setup was a bargain.

One question? does anyone know proper operating range for a slightly modified 1.3 (flat tops etc)
ALso any thoughts and comments are more than welcomed.
SKy

Hmmm... You better have a research about your problem and you may also ask other people personally to ask them if they have any knowledge about your problem. Hope you can do it. Good luck!



_________________
Fanimation




 
Oh the installation is already done, thanks ;D I have installed the fan and i is working quite well. It seem correct operating range is around 185-190. absolutely no hotter than 195. I prefer 187 or so. Too much heat tends to warp intakes and carburetors so the leak.
 
I looked around for and adapter, and couldn't find one so I picked up a drill bit and tap for the fitting that came in the gauge's package. I ddrilled in the hole that the temperature vacuum switch goes in right below the thermostat, so it would be accurate.

I made the mistake of getting a pipe tap (wrong) because it was tapered, when I screwed in the gauge fitting, the threads broke off in the manifold. I had to drill it out, and run a new tap. Not fun, but I learned you need a straight tap for gauge fittings ;D

looking back I could have just bought a metric adapter from a local import shop but I didn't know that at the time.

FWIW that lead me to porting the entire manifold inside and out with a flex/bit and stone. ended up gaining a bit of low end torque, crisp throttle  response, and a bit more top end rev/power (like the 1.3 needs more top end LOL).

All in all it worked out well, but was costly and definitely a learning experience.
 

https://www.helpavetshine.us/help-a-vet-shine
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