DIY Heavey Duty Engine Mounts, and Repair for broken mounts.

Trail Rated

Trail Rated

Well-known member
I was swaping in my 8-valve and noticed one of my mounts was broken.  So I took some of my import car knowledge and applied it to my Zuk.  I once swapped a 4g63t motor(for those that don't know a Turbo 2.0 Eclipse engine) into a dodge colt I had.  With that swap you use the factory mounts, from a Hyndai Elauntra and the engine pretty much bolts in.  Now obviously with a Motor making over 300whp, some Elauntra mounts wont hold up, and there are no aftermarket ones available, so people did what I did to my Zuk mounts,  filled them with 3m window weld.  It is a  Urethane glue to hold windows in, and it when it dries it is strong and rubberlike.  You can buy this stuff at probally any parts store, I got it at Napa.

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Here is how I did it in my Zuk:

1. Remove the inner part of the mount from the metal part.
2. Prep the metal mount, and the rubber part, with cleaner, lacquer thinner, MEK, ect.
3. Pump the voids of the inner rubber piece full of window weld. 
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4. Next spead a good amount of window weld on the inside of the metal mount.
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5. Install the rubber peice into the center of the metal mount, and let dry for 24hrs
6. Now we are just about done, all you have to do is fill the rest of the void with window weld, smooth it out, and let sit for another 24hrs. 
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7. Next re-install the mount, and never worry about mount failure again.

Disclaimer:

Your vehicle will vibrate more, mostly at idle speed.  I have not wired up my 8-valve yet, so I don't know how bad it will vibrate in the zuk, but from past experiences it is not, that bad, and only really noticable at idle, or just slightly off idle at partial throttle.  It might also be a little harder to re-install for it won't be quite as pliable, but it is in no way super hard to re-install or anything.  You will never have to replace a mount ever again though.
 
cool trick....little late, but cool  :P
a month ago it would have saved me from buying new ones, LOL

These have been tested long term?
 
I'd have to disagree with the "never worry about them again" statement.  No offense really.  That urethane isn't as pliable as rubber and it WILL tear out under heavy stress...or just moderate stress.  I would put a chain around it to be safe.  Esp. if you roll over, that's a scary thing. 
 
samilitant said:
I'd have to disagree with the "never worry about them again" statement.   No offense really.  That urethane isn't as pliable as rubber and it WILL tear out under heavy stress...or just moderate stress.  I would put a chain around it to be safe.  Esp. if you roll over, that's a scary thing. 
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I would guaruntee that you could pick the entire front of the Zuk up, and it wouldn't break.  If my cherry picker went high enough I would try it.  These mounts are solid, it does vibe a little, but I knew before hand that it would.  BTW on the subject of the urathane tearing under moderste or heavy stress.  You do realize in modern cars, the windshield has strutural bearing properies, and that it is transfered from the glass to the chassis, by way of the you guessed it urathane window weld. 
 
Trail Rated said:
I would guaruntee that you could pick the entire front of the Zuk up, and it wouldn't break.  If my cherry picker went high enough I would try it.  These mounts are solid, it does vibe a little, but I knew before hand that it would.  BTW on the subject of the urathane tearing under moderste or heavy stress.  You do realize in modern cars, the windshield has strutural bearing properies, and that it is transfered from the glass to the chassis, by way of the you guessed it urathane window weld. 
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Hey whats the complaning about? They are trail rated isnt that good enough?  ::)
 
Windshields are held in with it.  But they don't see any torque loads.  I've never known a windshield to be tested on a dyno for how hard it can pull.  :)  If they work that's great, but tell me in a year or two and some offroading that they've held up...THEN I'll be impressed.  I don't mean to rag on you for doing it.  That window weld stuff is about $15+ a tube, and new Dodge mounts are $12 each...just seems better to me.  Course the dodge ones took some drilling to make work right.  In any case good luck with them, and post back after a while to say they've held up...or not.  ;)
 
samilitant said:
Windshields are held in with it.  But they don't see any torque loads.  I've never known a windshield to be tested on a dyno for how hard it can pull.  :)  If they work that's great, but tell me in a year or two and some offroading that they've held up...THEN I'll be impressed.  I don't mean to rag on you for doing it.  That window weld stuff is about $15+ a tube, and new Dodge mounts are $12 each...just seems better to me.  Course the dodge ones took some drilling to make work right.  In any case good luck with them, and post back after a while to say they've held up...or not.   ;)
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I did this trick to my civic a few years ago, they're very solid, and they're still holding up ;) It was cheaper than buying performance urethane mounts, I'm sure they work just as well, but they're not pretty ;)
 
Are these mounts still working ok or have they had to be changed?  I need to do both mounts in my new to me 96 Tracker 2wd (soon to be 4wd) and was thinking this would be a heck of a lot cheaper than 47 a pop at Auto Zone.
 
No problem with reviving the thread as I a ways sppreciate cheap tech, but I really need to know whether they hold up.  For that matter couldn't you drill through the mount and stick a long bolt through it and accomplish the same thing?
 
I don't have motor mount experience, but my t-case mount actually held up better than the red poly "indestructable" ones.  The only problem I could see with it is that the urethane is a LOT stiffer--more vibes, maybe harder to remove/install.  I'd say go for it and see how it turns out.
 

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