Clutch Bypass and "Jump Start" wiring mod diagrams

[ack]

Since the How to wire a push button start thread is getting a bit long, I posted this in a new post along with the post in the above-mentioned thread.  I hope that this is okay to do.


Circuit diagram for Button Start and Clutch Bypass mods:

The left part of the wiring diagram deals with the "Button Start" mod.

Here, I indicated the use of a spring-loaded single-pole double throw switch.  This type of switch will allow you to use the ignition key to start the truck normally and also allows you to "jumpstart" the truck.  In the default Key Switch position, you can start the engine with the key.  Pushing the switch lever to the "Jump Start" position will cause the starter to run UNTIL you release the switch lever.

The switch in the Jump"Start" part of the diagram might be a little hard to find.  It may be necessary to go to an electrical supply store for it.  Auto parts stores and websites like Summit  might carry this type of switch.  You probably won't find one ar Radio Shack...


The Right side of the diagram shows the Clutch Pedal bypass.

This is a single-pole double-throw switch that, in the "Enable" position, puts the clutch pedal switch in the starting circuit for normal operation. Placing the switch in the "Disable" position causes the clutch pedal switch to be bypassed allowing you to start the engine without actually putting your foot on the clutch.

You can extend the wiring on the switches as necessary for convenient placement.

IMPORTANT:
Note that the blue wire connected to the Yellow/White wire (as indicated by the blue square where they touch) does not connect to the Black/Red wire on the left sde of the picture! The drawing indicates that the blue wire passes under the Black/Red wire.  If they were connected there would be a blue square at that point.  Actually connecting those two wires together would be BAD JU-JU!.

I hope that this helps!   

 

[ack]

I love making these drawings...

...So much so that I create diagrams that, occassionally, are not terribly useful!

It has been pointed out that the "Jump Start" part of the diagram in the previous post doesn't really do anything useful other than possibly reduce the wear on the ignition switch caused by repeatedly starting the engine.

So,  Here is another diagram that actually bypasses the ignition switch function completely.  It's handy if your ignition swith is completely shot or you really don't want to deal with an ignition switch.

I am sure that there are other variations that might be useful, too.  Post a request here & I'll try to crank out one.

Here is the Pushbutton Starter/Ignition Switch Replacement diagram:

 

[irideablackbike]

I have a list:
Rewire taillights w/ working reverse lights.
Rewire headlights so that when I flick on brights the bright lights AND the lowbeams are on.
Wire up trailer lights.
Make an LED set up like what's on the new Audi running lights.
Any Ideas?

 

[sickboy57]

for the head light deal here is a diagram of how to use a relay to do this

and if your not familiar with  schematics then its just this simple
here is a pic of a starter relay (theyre cheap and can handle the current)

you would tap the ground wire to the high beam without cutting(red) and run it to the upper left peg  then you would run a wire from the lower left peg to ground. then run a wire from the upper right peg to the ground wire for your low beams but dont cut it ( red with white stripe). then run a wire from the lower right peg to ground. thats it

headlights have a common wire that is hot all the time then to turn on high or low beams on the ground wire to that lamp is switched to ground
so you dont blow fuses with bright on and dont burn your hot wire up cut your common hot wire at both headlights and run a 12 ga wire with a 30 amp fuse from batt pos to the common hot wire of both headlights ( white with blue stripe and white with red stripe) put the fuse near the battery
then "y" that wire after the fuse and run it to the head light side. tape off the wire harness side of those wires.

 

[sickboy57]

doing this to one head light should affect both headlights.

 

[irideablackbike]

awesome, would it be better to use two solenoids, one for each light? Thanks for the info!!
-alex

 

[sickboy57]

ok actually the way it was on here would dim your brights by alot, im gonna correct

 

[sickboy57]

i corrected it. doing it this way is perfect. and there would be no reason to use two relays one will do just fine and it makes it simple since you only have to do it to one headlight.

 

[irideablackbike]

awesome, thank you! Can't wait to try this mod.
-Alex

 

[sickboy57]

assuming by "working" reverse light you mean like rear facing headlights that turn on when you shift to reverse. you could mount up some cheap wal-mart style off road driving lights and use a relay again only this time your factory back up lights have a constant ground and the hot side is switched so...

now you would tap into the factory backup light power wire without cutting it .run it to the upper left peg. run the lower left peg to ground. then run yourself a fused power wire from the battery to the lower right peg. then run the upper right peg to the power side of your new lamps. and run your new lamps ground wire to ground

 

[ack]

I have a list:
Rewire taillights w/ working reverse lights.

Before getting all worked up about new wiring and relays, check to see if your reverse switch - located on top of the transmission - is working.

Unplug the connector on the transmission with the Red and Yellow wires going to it.  This is the Reverse switch. (the other switch is the 5th gear switch).

Use a multimeter set to measure ohms (resistance) and touch the meter's two probe wires on the two electrical connections on the connector attached to the switch.  If the transmission is not in reverse, the meter should indicate infinite resistance.  If the transmission is in reverse, there should be a reading of zero ohms - or possibly a very small fraction of an ohm.  If the switch reads infinite ohms when the transmission is in reverse, you have a bad Reverse switch.

If the Switch is good, set the multimeter Volts DC. Connect the two probe wires - one to a ground point on the truck and one to the a terminal on the plug that the reverse switch plugs into. Hopefully this will be the terminal connected to the Yellow wire.  Turn on the ignition.  If there is 12 VDC present on either of the plug terminals (check them both just to be sure),  that part of the circuit is working properly.

This leaves the red wire that goes to the reverse lights, the lamps and sockets themselves and the ground wires.  A visual inspection of all of these will reveal where the problem is.  My bet is the sockets, the bulbs followed by the black ground wires.

Rewire headlights so that when I flick on brights the bright lights AND the lowbeams are on.

Not know about this...

Wire up trailer lights.

See http://www.acksfaq.com/ledflasher.php.

Look at the first part dealing with the 4-wire to 3-wire converter box.

Make an LED set up like what's on the new Audi running lights.
Any Ideas?

If this invloves LED Turn Signals, check out:

http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=19178&highlight=LED+turn+signals

Read the entire article before you make your LED and turn signal flasher purchases.

I hope that this helps!