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  • skipro3
  • [*]
Mo Power relays
I've read the thread about a relay for the clicky problem.  In a nut shell, this takes the START position of the ignition switch and routes it to energize a relay, with the relay contacts now providing the power to the starter motor from a power source directly from the battery or an aux fuse panel of your own design and installation.  By doing this mod, the current to run the starter no longer is routed through the ignition switch contacts, but used to energize a relay instead.  Heavier gauge wire can be used as well to reduce voltage loss in the wiring from the battery to the starter motor. 

I've decided to take this one step further. 

There are 3 positions on the ignition switch;
1. Accessory
2. Run
3. Start

The start fixes the clicky problem.  However, a lot of things run through the Accessory and Run positions.  I've decided to extend the benefits of the starter fix on the 'start' position to the other two positions using 2 more relays. 

I started by identifying the wires needed to do so.  From the ignition switch there are 4 wires; hot, switched to the starter, switched to the accessories and switched to the run.  They go under the dash to a 4 pin connector.  The far side of the connector has the "switched accessory" voltage on the Black w/Red tracer wire and switch run is on the Blue with/Red tracer.  (These may not be absolutely correct as the tracers are faded.  I'll check with a colorized wiring diagram and correct this later if needed.)

I disconnected the plug and adjusted the cable to maximize exposure so I could more easily access, cut and splice these two wires to relays.  I had previously purchased my relays on Amazon here;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VDI0GY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is a relay wiring diagram;


I mounted my relays on the firewall, under the hood, where there is a small grommet running to under the dash behind and above the fuse panel inside.  By mounting close to this grommet, my relays are easily accessible and the pigtail wires on the relay sockets are long enough to reach the ignition switch plug and not need extending their lengths.  (But just barely)
I wired the relays with the ground for the relay coils on a ring lug under the self tapping screws used to mount the relays on the firewall.  These are the pin85 Black wires in the picture of the relay wiring harness above.  Then I routed the Blue wires to the Hot Lead on the plug.  (It is a heavy gauge white wire for reference.  But test it with a volt meter to be sure you are on the right wire.)  You can route these Blue wires to any unswitched Hot lead you choose if you wish.  For example, if you have an accessory fuse panel under your hood you've installed that is sourced from the battery with heavy gauge wire.  That would be even better than sourcing the power from the wire feeding power to the ignition switch.  It doesn't matter if it's sourced off the ignition switch or not.  I then routed the relay's White and Yellow wires to the Black w/Red tracer on the ignition switch plug.  I cut that wire, and spliced the White wire to the plug's pigtail and the Yellow wire to the other end.  Next I did the same for the other relay, splicing the White to the plug's Blue w/Red and the Yellow to the other end. 

DONE!
To test, I opened the door, rolled down the window and placed my index finger on the relay for the accessory and turned the key to the first position.  The relay clicked.  I then did the same for the other relay to verify it energizes when the key is turned to the Run position. 

I started the Zuke and tested all the accessory powered items as well as the Run powered items.  My wipers are much faster.  My heater fan on high, head lights on high, brake lights on, wipers on high, radio on and nothing dims or slows down now.  Wipers really do have a fast speed!  Ha!

Now the only current that routes through the ignition switch is what is needed to energize the three relays; Accessory, Run and Start.  The switch contacts should last much better.  There should be no loss of current though dirty/worn contacts. 
I'll take photos and post them tomorrow.




  • melbakid
  • [*]
  • Sparky
Re: Mo Power relays
Reply #1
SWEET 4 DAYS!!!! [approve] [approve] [approve] [approve]  Very nice write up. [thumbsup] [thumbsup]

When I first read the subject line, my mind saw "Mo Par" relays. I thought you could use anybody's relays as long as it was the right amperage capacity. Then I reread it again realizing it said "Mo Power". Funny how your mind will play tricks on you. ;D ;D  Beware as you get older you need to slow down your reading so every letter in the words gets seen. That's why they call it "senility" ;)
There are only 2 types of Samurai's: Those we need & those we want!
9/13: Goldilocks 88.5 Samurai ST 29's on 15x7's
11/13: 95 Kick 2WD 5SP 4DR Future parts car
2/15: Red Ryder 88.5 Samurai TT 4.16 TC w/ TT shifter, MKII, SPOA on stock springs, 29's on 15x8's, Calmini OTT, OME Steering Stabilizer,

  • TheRealLawless
  • [*][*][*][*]
Re: Mo Power relays
Reply #2
Wow what an awesome write up! I can't wait to do this myself. My blower is terrible, as is my wiper speed. Sigh... I need to do this along with extended brake lines.

  • mistawiskas
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Mo Power relays
Reply #3
I'm really going to do this! My wipers are too slow for PNW rains the way they are now.This project moves to the top of my to-do list right next to LED dash bulbs.
It's when a mosquito lands on your testicles, that you know that not all problems can be solved with violence.

  • carolinarigman
  • [*][*][*]
  • Zu Crew
Re: Mo Power relays
Reply #4
Amazon sells a wiring kit W/Regulator and switch and relay for $12.00!Not smart enough to show links ???
but just look at their LED Lights and the kits show up also. [thumbsup]
Picture is of my Uwharrie campsite before I got my Zuk!

  • mistawiskas
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Mo Power relays
Reply #5
Wow. I sourced some relays locally. I'll pass! they wanted between 12 and 24 bux for one, repeat: One relay without a pigtail. I ordered up the linked amazon 5 relay kit instead (12 bux for 5). thanks for the link. And....while i was at it................................. ;D
......................I ordered up an aux fuse block for under the hood and LED dash bulbs...............and..............big box of assorted fuses and connectors............
............and .............. [idea] (don't tell my wife)
a hundred bux later and I have my next set of projects!
It's when a mosquito lands on your testicles, that you know that not all problems can be solved with violence.

  • melbakid
  • [*]
  • Sparky
Re: Mo Power relays
Reply #6
Wow. I sourced some relays locally. I'll pass! they wanted between 12 and 24 bux for one, repeat: One relay without a pigtail. I ordered up the linked amazon 5 relay kit instead (12 bux for 5). thanks for the link. And....while i was at it................................. ;D
......................I ordered up an aux fuse block for under the hood and LED dash bulbs...............and..............big box of assorted fuses and connectors............
............and .............. [idea] (don't tell my wife)
a hundred bux later and I have my next set of projects!
Would you share the link with the rest of us? ;) [thumbsup] [thumbsup]

If you not willing to share, I will tell your wife! [lol]
Thanks in advance.
New projects always get me excited. I found some LED white strip lights at the local Walmart. I plan on using them as daytime running lights(DRL's). I installed LROR's HD headlight harness a couple of months ago. It works really nice. I have installed another relay in the circuit so that when the hi beams come on it will also allow the low beams to stay on. Where I live is a rural area, two lane roads and very dark at night. The extra light really lights up the road. Because of the two lane roads, I felt DRL's would be a nice safety feature. So, I am going to try and figure out where to install them and I will have them triggered by the normally closed contact on the low beam relay. That way when the low beams are off, the DRL's will come on and when the low beams are on the DRL's will go off.

There are only 2 types of Samurai's: Those we need & those we want!
9/13: Goldilocks 88.5 Samurai ST 29's on 15x7's
11/13: 95 Kick 2WD 5SP 4DR Future parts car
2/15: Red Ryder 88.5 Samurai TT 4.16 TC w/ TT shifter, MKII, SPOA on stock springs, 29's on 15x8's, Calmini OTT, OME Steering Stabilizer,

  • carolinarigman
  • [*][*][*]
  • Zu Crew
Re: Mo Power relays
Reply #7
Please excuse my ignorance, but I just looked at LED lights on Amazon, they had them on the same page as accessories.
They had a complete wiring harness for front lights with wiring and connectors made "in house' for $12.00! Easily adaptable.
Picture is of my Uwharrie campsite before I got my Zuk!

  • mistawiskas
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Mo Power relays
Reply #8
  • Last Edit: Sunday, Nov 27, 2016, 08:23 AM by mistawiskas
It's when a mosquito lands on your testicles, that you know that not all problems can be solved with violence.

  • melbakid
  • [*]
  • Sparky
Re: Mo Power relays
Reply #9
I'll post the links for the led bulbs once I know they fit; here are the other links

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VDI0GY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2MBPA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FN44YSG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If there are any more stock circuits anyone wants to control with relays, here's the wire colors and schematic I use most:

http://astrapt.com/wiring/87-suzuki-samurai-wiring-diagram.php
THANKS SO MUCH, APPRECIATED!! [thumbsup] [thumbsup]
Please disregard all previous threats to tell your wife about your new project.[lol]   I don't know what I was thinking. :o ???
There are only 2 types of Samurai's: Those we need & those we want!
9/13: Goldilocks 88.5 Samurai ST 29's on 15x7's
11/13: 95 Kick 2WD 5SP 4DR Future parts car
2/15: Red Ryder 88.5 Samurai TT 4.16 TC w/ TT shifter, MKII, SPOA on stock springs, 29's on 15x8's, Calmini OTT, OME Steering Stabilizer,

  • carolinarigman
  • [*][*][*]
  • Zu Crew
Re: Mo Power relays
Reply #10
I'm gonna figure out how to save and post links someday! ::)
These kits have the wiring and switch with relays in on kit for about $12. [idea]
I'm gonna get at least 3 or 4 myself when I get some extra cash.
Nice wiring diagram Mistawiskas!! [thumbsup]
Picture is of my Uwharrie campsite before I got my Zuk!

  • mistawiskas
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Mo Power relays
Reply #11
Posting links is easy as it gets. Just copy and paste what shows up in the address bar at the top of the page into the 'post reply' field .
right click>copy, right click>paste


The first thing I did when I got my hands on my Samurai, is google up all the repair manuals and schematics I could find.
It's when a mosquito lands on your testicles, that you know that not all problems can be solved with violence.

  • carolinarigman
  • [*][*][*]
  • Zu Crew
Re: Mo Power relays
Reply #12
I'll give that a try. Will come in very handy! [lol]
Thanks!! [lol]
Picture is of my Uwharrie campsite before I got my Zuk!

  • Reddog1
  • [*][*][*][*]
Re: Mo Power relays
Reply #13

Here is a relay wiring diagram;


Jerry wired the Ignition switch Relays on my Samurai. I may have missed it, but Jerry and I both have 1991 Samurai. I post this to point out the wiring colors may be different on different years.

On the relay, pin 37a (red wire) is not used. It will be "hot" when it ignition is off. Pin 37a will not be "hot" with the Ignition on. I point this out to caution you on how to treat this wire in this application. You can completely remove it from the socket, cut it very short in such a way it cannot short out, or simply crimp a butt connector on it.

I have had relays on my headlights for several years. They are almost a must if you use Halogen headlamps. I encourage you to replace the OEM headlight sockets  This is  especially true if you upgrade your headlights with the bulb type. Which ever headlights you run, you will see an obvious difference. Check the voltage at the headlight in a stock Samurai. It should be closer to 14 volts than 13 volts.

I prefer to run everything I can through relays. I even run my voltmeter through a relay. It provides a more accurate reading, and is only on when the ignition is on to prevent battery drain. The location Jerry used for the ignition relays is perfect for other relay as well.

 I too ordered from Amazon. My last order was two days ago, 6 Pack - OLS 12V 30/40 Amp 5-Pin SPDT Automotive Relay Harness Set (Bosch Style with Interlocking Harnesses) .

Wayne

  • RunninWild
  • [*][*][*][*]
Re: Mo Power relays
Reply #14
Maybe I'm blind but did you add a fuse where you pulled the power for the relays? Any suggestions on fuse size? I'm going to do this in the near future, pulling power directly from my battery. I'll probably run the same hot wire for all 3 relays and it would be nice to have some kind of protection on the circuit. Any guesses on the current these 3 circuits would draw?

FYI I like how your 6 packs of relays on amazon.com are $14.99, in Canada on amazon.ca we get 5 packs for $32.99. Cant wait for the day they add "Welcome to Canada, bend over and take it" to our border crossing signs.
  • Last Edit: Tuesday, Nov 29, 2016, 10:22 PM by RunninWild

  • mistawiskas
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Mo Power relays
Reply #15
max current for those relays = 30 amps. I'm getting a stand alone 6 circuit fuse panel to run accessories from. Right now, I have two other relays for off road lights both connected directly to the bat. 1 heavy gauge wire to the new fuse panel and all relays connected to 30 amp fuses will clean up a lot of mess at the battery terminal and eliminate the in-line fuses.
  • Last Edit: Wednesday, Nov 30, 2016, 07:48 AM by mistawiskas
It's when a mosquito lands on your testicles, that you know that not all problems can be solved with violence.

  • RunninWild
  • [*][*][*][*]
Re: Mo Power relays
Reply #16
Thats a good idea. I really need to just do a ground up rebuild on my sami, I just wish I had the space/money to do it. So many wires and accessories that are no longer in use, plus everything needs a good cleaning and fresh coat of paint. Mine is relatively rust free but it needs some maintenance to stay that way. 

  • mistawiskas
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Mo Power relays
Reply #17
I was fortunate to find a rust free sami. the electrical, on the other hand, was a mess. Wire hooked up to the wrong thing, most items not working correctly, if at all. Now I've pretty much fixed the last micky-rig. All the lights are working, the wipers now work, the heater actually has 3 speeds now. Only thing left is to add LED dash bulbs so I can see the gauges at night without giving myself a brain hernia. about the only wires not accounted for are the old connectors for the ECU sensors. That's all gone now, totally de-smogged.
It's when a mosquito lands on your testicles, that you know that not all problems can be solved with violence.


  • melbakid
  • [*]
  • Sparky
Re: Mo Power relays
Reply #19
I was fortunate to find a rust free sami. the electrical, on the other hand, was a mess. Wire hooked up to the wrong thing, most items not working correctly, if at all. Now I've pretty much fixed the last micky-rig. All the lights are working, the wipers now work, the heater actually has 3 speeds now. Only thing left is to add LED dash bulbs so I can see the gauges at night without giving myself a brain hernia. about the only wires not accounted for are the old connectors for the ECU sensors. That's all gone now, totally de-smogged.
I did the dash LED bulbs along with the white overlay on the gages this past summer. It was really worth the effort. [thumbsup] [thumbsup] [thumbsup] 
Polish your clear plastic lens while you have it apart. Also, don't replace the high beam indicator with the LED. It will blind you at night, when you flip on the high beams. 8)    That blue light is intense. The LEDs are usually polarity sensitive, so you need to be aware of that when you install them. I had three that would not light up until I turned them around. The white overlays for the gages from Roadless Gear were a nice upgrade too! [thumbsup]
There are only 2 types of Samurai's: Those we need & those we want!
9/13: Goldilocks 88.5 Samurai ST 29's on 15x7's
11/13: 95 Kick 2WD 5SP 4DR Future parts car
2/15: Red Ryder 88.5 Samurai TT 4.16 TC w/ TT shifter, MKII, SPOA on stock springs, 29's on 15x8's, Calmini OTT, OME Steering Stabilizer,