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Topic: Samurai 2.0 swap (Read 3767 times) previous topic - next topic

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  • lxer96
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Re: Samurai 2.0 swap
Reply #20
I got the engine physically in the engine bay but it doesn't exactly fit. I will cover why. First lets start with the oil pan swap. This is what the engine looks like with the Aerio pan on it.

  • lxer96
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Samurai 2.0 swap
Reply #21
After removing the pan, I also removed the pick up tube. The stubby one is the Aerio tube. The shiny one is the tracker/vitara tube. Note: swap over the oring shown in 2nd pic. Also the tracker tube attaches at an additional point. I used a spare bolt I had laying around. It's a 6mm bolt with a 10mm head. It's the same as the ones that hold the radiator on.


  • lxer96
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Samurai 2.0 swap
Reply #23
Next comes the installation of the Trail Tough motor mounts. First of all, I'd like to say, these are pretty. All of the bolts are included in the kit, except the 4 that mount to the frame. You have to reuse your old ones. All of the holes line up perfectly. 

  • lxer96
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Samurai 2.0 swap
Reply #24
The passenger side mount has provisions for the 1.3 clutch cable bracket which is really a nice touch and something I was not aware of prior to purchasing the mounts. In the first pic I am pointing at the crank position sensor plug. In the 2nd pic I am pointing at what I think is a knock sensor with the wire cut off. I am pointing these out because when the wiring portion starts, these are sort of hidden by the intake manifold. The third pic shows the clutch cable bracket attached. Note: on the passenger side, there was a brace that I had to remove in order to install the motor mount. It will not fit after the mount is installed.

  • lxer96
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Samurai 2.0 swap
Reply #25
Next I installed the engine using my shop crane. The way I did it was to separate the motor mounts. I mounted the other half on to the frame and used them as a guide to get the motor in place. Once I got them lined back up, I slid the center bolt back in. This is it sitting in it's new home.


  • lxer96
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Samurai 2.0 swap
Reply #27
Next problem, The oil pan does not have a whole lot of clearance. I'm not sure if the axle does much fore and aft motion so this might be a big problem or it might be ok. I need to jack up the wheels on each side and bounce down on the front to see if it's going to hit. 
  • Last Edit: Sunday, Oct 23, 2016, 05:47 PM by lxer96

  • lxer96
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Samurai 2.0 swap
Reply #28
The third problem is, the steering shaft is directly resting on the exhaust manifold. I have the right one that I've heard people say to use but I haven't seen anyone encounter this issue yet. I do have a Petroworks rag joint eliminator but the area where it touches is the same as stock I think.
  • Last Edit: Sunday, Oct 23, 2016, 05:50 PM by lxer96


  • melbakid
  • [*]
  • Sparky
Re: Samurai 2.0 swap
Reply #30
Next problem, The oil pan does not have a whole lot of clearance. I'm not sure if the axle does much fore and aft motion so this might be a big problem or it might be ok. I need to jack up the wheels on each side and bounce down on the front to see if it's going to hit.
I don't think that you will have to worry about the diff moving rearward. The shackles are in the front and as the springs are compressed the diff will move forward ever so slightly. If you have the fab skills you could cut the bottom off the pan and add kit outs like the circle track racers use. This would give you back your oil capacity that you would lose when you cut off the bottom of the sump. Just a thought.    
There are only 2 types of Samurai's: Those we need & those we want!
9/13: Goldilocks 88.5 Samurai ST 29's on 15x7's
11/13: 95 Kick 2WD 5SP 4DR Parts car
2/15: Red Ryder 88.5 Samurai TT 4.16 TC w/ TT shifter, MKII, SPOA on stock springs, 29's on 15x8's, Calmini OTT, OME Stabilizer, ZOR seats

  • 87Rhino
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Samurai 2.0 swap
Reply #31
What about drilling your spring perch to move the axle 1" forward that way you could leave the oil pan alone?
87 Samurai TT, Weber, Pacesetter Header, 2" Exhaust, Rhino Lined exterior, DIY 2.5 lifted YJ SPUA, 32x11.5r15's.

  • Steve1814
  • [*][*]
Re: Samurai 2.0 swap
Reply #32
The third problem is, the steering shaft is directly resting on the exhaust manifold. I have the right one that I've heard people say to use but I haven't seen anyone encounter this issue yet. I do have a Petroworks rag joint eliminator but the area where it touches is the same as stock I think.
Did you get the "wedge" from petroworks as well?  I think that is supposed to bring the shaft away from the manifold too.
     '87 Samurai with TBI Sumo II 1.3, SPOA, 4.1 Xfer, Neon Seats (comfy!) Still working on other upgrades...

  • lxer96
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Samurai 2.0 swap
Reply #33
It already has the wedge. I have some ideas. The exhaust hitting the steering will be an easy fix, I think. I'm probably just going to have the flange area extended so that there is clearance from the steering shaft. That may be no big deal.

I did consider that I might have to move the axle forward, but I don't really want to alter any of the suspension or steering geometry at this point just for simplicity's sake.  It may be in the cards in the future!  It drove great prior and, from experience,  any of those little changes, to me at least, seems to usually make something worse in some way. Death wobble, bump steer, etc.. Even the OME springs increased bump steer. When I get a chance, I'll see what the likelihood is that the pan will hit the axle and we'll go from there. I'm not jumping anything (Like Mr. Devinney) or rock crawling like a lot of ya'll do. This is and always has been a camping or DD rig if need be, that sees at worst, light trail duty or icy roads, but mostly smooth GA tarmac 95% of the time. I daily drove it for years with the GTi engine I had prior and it performed out great. I'm hoping the 2.0 is even better. I hope to not have to lift it either. The way it sits right now, my 87 year old 5'2" grandma can climb in it easy. :o

Thanks for the suggestions you guys.
  • Last Edit: Monday, Oct 24, 2016, 02:39 PM by lxer96

  • beekiller
  • [*][*][*][*][*]
  • Administrator
  • Krew Krawlers, Mountain Division
Re: Samurai 2.0 swap
Reply #34
That may be a good solution.  Alternatively, don't exhaust pipes bend relatively easily?  ;)
All I want from tomorrow is to get it better than today.

Claiming you are offended is essentially saying you are incapable of controlling and managing your emotions, so everyone else should do it for you.

  • ParadisePWoffrD
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Samurai 2.0 swap
Reply #35
weve had to put a "dent" in exhaust headers/pipes because of similar issues before.

Also make sure that when the engine moves from revving that it still clears.
Ben

1/5th XP in progress

  • lxer96
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Samurai 2.0 swap
Reply #36
I bounced it and shook the crap out of everything last night and the pan doesn't hit anything, so that's good.  It is dangerously close though. I'm not sure how I feel about that. ???

For the exhaust manifold, I could dent it or I could do the same thing I had to do with my GTi swap which was to take the manifold off, cut the runners where they meet the flange about 3/4" shorter and weld them back on. Then, my problem is solved. It might also help with the frame/pipe clearance issue once I get to that step. This may be a step in the project that happens at the very end when I go to fit the exhaust on. I will be using both catalytic converters because I enjoy breathing clean(er) air, and am hoping the factory ones fit up ok if I make the runners shorter. Like bee said, pipes are easy to bend.

I'm thinking about one of these for the hood clearance. My hood isn't pristine anyway so what's a hole when you already have a bunch of dents. :)

  • Last Edit: Tuesday, Oct 25, 2016, 12:26 PM by lxer96

  • lxer96
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Samurai 2.0 swap
Reply #37
My trans adapter, flywheel and bushing came in this week, so the weekend project this week will be getting the flywheel and clutch installed and mounting up the transmission. There are no instructions included with the transmission adapter so maybe this will be helpful for those doing a 1.6 or 2.0/2.3 since they are the same adapter.

  • lxer96
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Samurai 2.0 swap
Reply #38
I come to you this evening rather frustrated. The word of the day today is instructions or lack thereof. I will preface this by saying I have done many engine swaps in my day. This is my first 2.0 in a Samurai though and even though the fitment of the parts I have purchased have been outstanding, I'm in uncharted waters here so a little instruction would have gone a long way in the kit. Imagine buying one of those cheap pieces of furniture at WalMart that you have to put together yourself. Now imagine putting it together with no instructions whatsoever. Could you get it done? Absolutely. Will you have to take it apart 2 or 3 times because you didn't know this piece at the very end wouldn't fit because you have to put it in first... Likely. That's what happened today I think.
Here is the new flywheel next to the old one. Front and back.
  • Last Edit: Saturday, Nov 05, 2016, 10:29 PM by lxer96

  • lxer96
  • [*][*][*]
Re: Samurai 2.0 swap
Reply #39
Before I put the flywheel on, I decided to replace the rear main. Unlike the G series engines, the J series does not have a separate housing for the crank seal. This makes installing it a little more difficult at least to me. I remembered back when I pulled the auto flexplate off, there was a little spacer behind it that I removed and tossed aside. So I found it and used it to press the seal in once I oiled up the new seal. It worked beautifully. Now I won't have to worry about leaks. Once I pressed in the seal, I turned the engine over a few times by hand to set it. I cast aside my little seal press in tool/spacer once again.
  • Last Edit: Tuesday, Nov 08, 2016, 06:10 PM by lxer96