Skip to main content

News

  • Upgrade complete!  You will need to use the password reminder function on the login page.  If you do not receive the email CHECK THE SPAM FOLDER!  If all else fails use our new contact page: http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?action=contact

Topic: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks... (Read 42691 times) previous topic - next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Re: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #20
I didn't mean to jack this thread.

Wanting a steel front housing to put a locker in, and having a empty Sammi rear housing just setting there, my brain just said you can do that.  So I have started to convert a sammi rear end to a front end for my tracker.  The short side even has the same size bearing housing as the Tracker seal, so just shorten it up a little. 
I took the angle grinder with 1/16" cutting wheel and got started, I cut off the end of the axle flanges from the end of the tube (cutting back far enough that there was just room for the seal).  Next I cut the rest of the tube off, leaving 3/16 of the inner tube (as the stop for the seal), welded these two together (I did not try to make room for a bearing, as the aluminum case does not use a bearing).

I installed a diff. into the housing, put an old seal in the new end and put it on a short side cv.  Sliding the cv and new end into the housing, I tacked the new end into place.


I cut a hole in a piece of 3/16" plate, slipped it over the new end, tacked it up and trimmed the edges back to conform with the housing and welded it up.  I Installed the seal again and test fit appears good.


For the ds, side I cut off the bearing housing at the weld.  I welded the short section of axle housing (that was inside the bearing housing) to use as a stop for the tracker bearing, and cleaned up bearing housing.  The tracker bearing fits into the housing very snug, just like it should.  I needed to get a special seal, because the bearing housing steps up larger after the bearing (at least one seal, and the bearing will be stock).  I ordered the seal off by size using the sami bearing OD size and tracker axle OD size.  (It was a tight fit.)
After removing all the brackets on housing, and cleaning up the weld area, I cut the long side to appropriate length.  I then installed the bearing into bearing housing, and put bearing housing back on diff housing, and installed the axle.  Fit on this looking good.

After tacking bearing housing in place I removed the axle.  Bearing comes out with the axle, as I did not try to make a snap ring notch to hold it in.  As I stated before, I will have to get a seal sized to fit hole.  The seal keeps bearing from coming out with axle.

I fabed up axle mounts for the extended mounts I had welded up from lowering my diff.  (Not near as good as Boon's.)
I have been running on this since November.  I have broken a ds side mount that I lengthened & the cv (backing w diff locked).

Cost was one stock seal, and the special order seal, I used the original Tracker bearing, and had the sami housing (it may have been a SJ410 housing) setting there.

I like the looks and strength of Boon's mount, and intend to copy it for both sides with my next modifications.

Re: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #21
Unfortunately two of those holes for those three bolts were already damaged before I put mine in. Didn't notice till after I started putting it in. So far it's held up.

Has anyone had any luck with just strapping the third member down along with a bushing under the back of the diff to absorb the tension?
'02 Vitara SWB on 33x10.5 BFG A/T'S
'01 Vitara LWB, stock

Re: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #22
this is how i did mine.







and i have modified my cardan with nissan maxima like those:

http://zukiworld.com/month_040103/feature_hagencvshaft.htm

  • bentparts
  • [*][*]
Re: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #23
I've been using a strap setup that surrounds the output on my front aluminum diff for almost 4 years now, with an ARB locker in it, with no problems at all. I made my own diff drop brackets, modified the rear mount to sit lower, then incorporated the diff strap as part of the mod. It wraps around both top and bottom of the output snout, secures to the control arm mount on the pass side and to the crossmember at the stock mount on the drivers side. I also surrounded the output snout with a thin layer of hard rubber to protect it, and made sure to chamfer all the edges of the strap where it surrounds the snout. I used poly bushings in my diff mounts, and the whole thing is much more rigid that stock, with virtually no movement. The only downside I can see is a bit more vibration transfered into the frame ( and the body structure) but it's only in 4WD, and very minimal. BTW, I'm running 32x11.5 BFG's and it seems to be holding up great.
I'd rather be Blown AND Injected!

Re: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #24
hey Bentparts you got a write up on what you did and the parts you used?

RE: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #25
#1. Strengthen Trackick Front Differentials With Overhaul:

http://www.zukiworld.com/month_090103/feature_sidekickdrivetrainimprovements.htm


#2. Strengthen Trackick Front Differentials With Calmini Anvil Front Axle Housing:

http://www.puresuzuki.com/anvil_axle.htm


#3. However, Calmini does NOT tell you that you ALSO need 26 spline differential side gears AND two 26 spline short axel shafts PLUS New Axle Output Shaft Seals PLUS New Axle Shaft Seals PLUS New CV Joint Boots!!!!
  • Last Edit: Tuesday, Aug 17, 2010, 12:17 PM by susan_4X4

RE: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #26
Drone637 replied at the following URL:

"You can also just pick up a Samurai steel diff and put the 5.12 gears in it. Then you can use the side gears required for your year, 22 or 26 spline.  An alternative to the Anvil is to build your own from a Samurai rear end."

http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/technical-discussion-performance-modify/trackick-front-differentials

RE: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #27
#1. The following article gives the wrong URL for Randy's Ring and Pinion!!:

http://www.zukiworld.com/month_090103/feature_sidekickdrivetrainimprovements.htm


#2. The correct URL for Randy's Ring and Pinion is!!:

http://www.ringpinion.com
http://www.ringpinion.com/Contact.aspx
Sales 866-631-0196
Customer Service 800-292-1031
Online Customers 800-347-1188 X5504

RE: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #28
Whitfield replied at the following URL:

Great info -- Thanks for sharing...    Also, if you find a late model Grand Vitara 5 speed 4wd -- some of them have steel housings that will swap in.

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,111661.0.html

RE: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #29
#1. I called Rock Auto, and the guy who answered the phone didn't know the difference between the "Axle Output Shaft Seal" and the "Axle Shaft Seal" at the URL'S below!!!!:

1997 : GEO : TRACKER : 1.6L 1588cc 98 cubic inch L4 MFI (6) SOHC : Drivetrain

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1142299,pgname,Drivetrain

Axle Output Shaft Seal: TIMKEN Part #710331:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1142299,parttype,2368

Axle Shaft Seal: NATIONAL Part #223553:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1142299,parttype,2336


#2. Does anybody know????

RE: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #30
susan_4X4 asked in an email to:

http://www.AFTERMARKET4X4.com

#1. Does anyone have an informed opinion of the following email thread on strengthening Trackick front differentials, including all the sub-links??:

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,100689.0.html

<SNIP>

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sean DeVinney replied:

First, I would have to know what exactly you are doing with the vehicle off-road, (rocks, mud, just beach driving, etc), as the harder you are on the vehicle, the more strengthening you will need. Also, what tire size you are running, as that also makes a difference in how much strengthening you must do. Personally, I have only broken a few of the aluminum Sidekick front 3rd members (just the housings that holds the gears), and never broken an aluminum axle housing, but I have seen it happen to a few people only in the rocks, and only when they did not keep the bolts on the housing mounts tight. Simply using Lock-Tight on the bolts should be sufficient, depending again on tire size and how you wheel it. If you are an agressive driver that does a lot of rock crawling, you may want to upgrade everything in all the articles that you listed to keep the drivetrain from degrading itself. Another option is to just go with a Solid Axle Swap (SAS), which gives you the most strength of all the options, but also costs the most, and is the most involved. Hopefully, this helps some with your decision. Also, here's a link to an X-90 I built, then destroyed, then re-built. It is called Project XXX:

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,99023.0/all.html

Sean DeVinney

http://www.AFTERMARKET4X4.com
  • Last Edit: Thursday, Aug 19, 2010, 06:51 AM by susan_4X4

RE: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #31
Re: Tracker/Sidekick Front Differentials
Thursday, August 19, 2010 1:13 PM
From: "CLAUDIA ROSKELLEY" <claudia@hawksuzukiparts.com>
To: "susan" <susan172992@yahoo.com>

Cast steel housing plus differential carrier are the way we reinforce the front differential assembly on the Sidekick or Tracker.  The housing and carrier are new parts.  Gears and bearings are not included in the price of $895.00.  For both pieces -- direct fit -- no modifiying.  Differential Bearing Kit $169.95.  If there's anything else, just email or call our toll free line:  1-888-726-8724
Thanks, Claudia

http://www.hawksuzukiparts.com
http://www.hawksuzukiparts.com/main_contactus.htm

RE: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #32
PLEASE SCROLL DOWN FOR NEW REPLIES IN CHRONOLOGICAL ORDER!!:
***************************************************************************

#1. I called Rock Auto, and the guy who answered the phone didn't know the difference between the "Axle Output Shaft Seal" and the "Axle Shaft Seal" at the URL'S below!!!!:

1997 : GEO : TRACKER : 1.6L 1588cc 98 cubic inch L4 MFI (6) SOHC : Drivetrain

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1142299,pgname,Drivetrain

Axle Output Shaft Seal: TIMKEN Part #710331:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1142299,parttype,2368

Axle Shaft Seal: NATIONAL Part #223553:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1142299,parttype,2336


#2. Does anybody know????

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Greg Gorman" <ggorman@ttruck.com> replied:

Suzuki's webpage does not list an "axle output shaft seal".

http://www.ttruck.com

http://www.ttruck.com/contact

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Dave Woolworth" <dwoolworth@ttruck.com> replied:

Suzuki rear axle seals have a seal, and what they call a protector inside the axle housing. They also have a seal located under the bearing plate which bolts up to the backing plate. If you need help with installation procedures or getting parts, please feel free to contact. 

http://www.ttruck.com

http://www.ttruck.com/contact

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

"CLAUDIA ROSKELLEY" <claudia@hawksuzukiparts.com> replied:

Hi
I would assume that what they're calling the "axle output shaft seal" is probably the pinion seal -- or -- they may be referring to the seals at the knuckle end of the shaft.  The axle seal at the differential housing (OEM) is $13.95 each plus shipping.  The pinion seal is $10.95 each plus shipping.  If there's anything else, you know where to find us.
Thanks, Claudia

http://www.hawksuzukiparts.com
http://www.hawksuzukiparts.com/main_contactus.htm

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

"RockAuto Customer Service" <service@rockauto.com> replied:
Dear Susan,
Thanks for writing. At first glance, I think that those are the exact same parts. I am however, researching the idea, and should have an answer for you tomorrow. Please let me know if there is anything else in the meantime.

Thank you, Joseph
RockAuto Customer Service
Phone: 608-661-1376
Fax: 608-836-5694
Toll-Free: 1-866-ROCKAUTO [1-866-762-5288]
http://www.rockauto.com

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

I just talked to Timken on the phone, and they confirmed that Rock Auto has the wrong listing!!!!

TIMKEN Part #710331: Autotomotive Engine Oil Seal
For: AMC 77-79, Honda 83-89, Porsche 77-82
Size: I.D. 1.378", O.D. 2.134", Width or Thickness 0.315", Double Lip Seal

TIMKEN Part #223553: Axel and Differential Oil Seal
For: GM truck or Suzuki truck 1982-2004, Honda 84-89
Size: I.D. 1.378",  O.D. 2.452",  Width or Thickness 0.354", Triple Lip Seal

TIMKEN Part #223553 is the SAME as NATIONAL Part #223553!!!!

NATIONAL Part #223553: Axle Shaft Seal

Timken Technical Support: 877-484-6536

Re: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #33
I sure many of you are familiar with the broken mounting tab on the third member. I make a pinion collar that will allow you to reuse your broken third. You must grind off what ever remains of the mounting tab off the third member so that the pinion snout is round, and then simply install the collar. It bolts right into the factory mounting bracket on the crossmember.

Here is a picture of a good third member and a broken one



This is the pinion collar to repair the above problem

  • Last Edit: Friday, Aug 20, 2010, 10:55 AM by MUD CHILD
NO DITCH TOO DEEP NO HILL TOO STEEP

RE: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #34
How much does it cost, and how can I order it????

Re: RE: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #35

How much does it cost, and how can I order it????


I sell them for $85 Canadian. PM me here or e-mail me at SRCUSTOMS@shaw.ca if you would like one
NO DITCH TOO DEEP NO HILL TOO STEEP

  • Truckasaurus44
  • [*][*]
Re: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #36
how hard is it to put one of those on a samurai 3rd member pinion snout?  I know you need to trim the bottom of the diff no matter what, but is the diameter close enough for it to work?
You want to make God laugh?  Tell him your plans.

RE: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #37

Awsome Mod!  [idea]

This would be a good idea on the steel housings as well. My bolts backed out every trip! Even with lock tight!  :o



susan_4X4 asked in an email to:

http://www.AFTERMARKET4X4.com

#1. Does anyone have an informed opinion of the following email thread on strengthening Trackick front differentials, including all the sub-links??:

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,100689.0.html

<SNIP>

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sean DeVinney replied:

First, I would have to know what exactly you are doing with the vehicle off-road, (rocks, mud, just beach driving, etc), as the harder you are on the vehicle, the more strengthening you will need. Also, what tire size you are running, as that also makes a difference in how much strengthening you must do. Personally, I have only broken a few of the aluminum Sidekick front 3rd members (just the housings that holds the gears), and never broken an aluminum axle housing, but I have seen it happen to a few people only in the rocks, and only when they did not keep the bolts on the housing mounts tight. Simply using Lock-Tight on the bolts should be sufficient, depending again on tire size and how you wheel it. If you are an agressive driver that does a lot of rock crawling, you may want to upgrade everything in all the articles that you listed to keep the drivetrain from degrading itself. Another option is to just go with a Solid Axle Swap (SAS), which gives you the most strength of all the options, but also costs the most, and is the most involved. Hopefully, this helps some with your decision. Also, here's a link to an X-90 I built, then destroyed, then re-built. It is called Project XXX:

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,99023.0/all.html

Sean DeVinney

http://www.AFTERMARKET4X4.com



Trevinator, what kind of driving were you doing, and for how long??
  • Last Edit: Saturday, Aug 21, 2010, 02:07 PM by susan_4X4

RE: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #38
#1. From the URL below:

"No more cracked or broken stock aluminum axle housings with this unit. The 'Anvil' is a CALMINI exclusive, and is completely fabricated from scratch as a replacement housing designed to handle any kind of off-road abuse. Uses the steel third member housings from a Vitara/Grand Vitara."

<SNIP>

http://www.puresuzuki.com/anvil_axle.htm

#2. Will the rest of the Trackick front differential fit perfectly into the steel third member housings from a Vitara/Grand Vitara, or are there some other adjustments that Calmini didn't mention????

Re: fixing the track/kick front housing BEFORE it breaks...
Reply #39

how hard is it to put one of those on a samurai 3rd member pinion snout?  I know you need to trim the bottom of the diff no matter what, but is the diameter close enough for it to work?


I've never tried so I can't tell ya
NO DITCH TOO DEEP NO HILL TOO STEEP