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Messages - MuddyBuddy

1
Just curious, why would you do that? ???  I might have a chance to learn something here. ;)
I remember SpiderTrax used to have a full floater kit for the samurai that used a front hub in the rear.  It took load off of the rear bearing.  If you broke an axle you could just unlock that hub I believe.  Could also unlock all four corners for flat towing.  Pretty slick setup.
2
Samurai Tech / Re: Power Gains from Electric Fan
No noticeable power gain when I installed mine.  There are two benefits for me. One is being able to control what temperature the fan turns on.  The other is being able to flip a switch and force the fan to turn on while the engine is off or running.  This helps on those slow trail rides in the woods.  Not much air flow from the vehicle moving so the electric controls help keep engine temps in check.
3
Samurai Tech / Re: ZOR turbo kit for a 1.3

Check out dwrpower.com. Has several options for supercharging Suzuki engines. I am currently installing the amr500 kit.


DWR is getting a lot of good reviews on Facebook.   Prices are much lower than the one or two other companies making a Suzuki specific kit.  I have no personal experience with them but I've been drooling over the turbo kits for the 16v.

4
There was a thread a while back about the petroworks cage.  Most agreed that it wasn't designed to protect during a hard roll.  There were a few pics of a cage that failed pretty badly in a hard roll.  
The bent down tubes are crumple zones and there is no cross bracing or triangulation to support any side load.
Some will argue that it's better than nothing.  I'd argue that it gives a false sense of protection which in some ways is more dangerous.

Check out the cage that low range came out with last year. It was more money but looked like a better design.  Too bad rockrat stopped making his nczuk cage.  It was probably the best samurai cage available at the time.
5
Samurai Tech / Re: Transfer case question
The 5.29 gears are in the axle not the tcase. The 5.29's alone will compensate nicely for 33" or even 35" tires depending on your overall weight and the width & tread of the tire.  Skinny AT's are easier to push than wide boggers.
6
Samurai Tech / Re: zuk Calamini S/R questions
Nothing wrong with the calmini s/r kit.  It's actually a very well make kit.  Good quality and fit.

I actually have a kit for sale that I just took off my zuk.  PM me if interested.
7
Samurai Tech / Re: Samurai Roll\Sports bar dimensions ?

The roll bars that came in the US had nothing to do with the bikini tops. You probably need the convertible top support bar

The best top bikini tops mount to the roll bar in the rear and the windshield frame in the front.
8
Samurai Tech / Re: Yet another Master cylinder question
That Is the retainer shown in the exploded diagram as item #3. From what I've seen some samurais have it and most dont.  I wonder if the newer ones have it but not the older ones.  Mine is a 1992 if it helps anything.  The OP has a 1991.
9
Samurai Tech / Re: Yet another Master cylinder question
Here is what mine looked like.  The installed picture is of the new modified push rod.  The length of my modified push rod is different from others that I saw around the internet but it works for my booster and Subaru M/C.
10
Samurai Tech / Re: Yet another Master cylinder question

Yeah, I tried that but need to try it again, i didn't have a good way to hold the base and screw out the bolt. I'm also super glad I am not the only person to encounter this. phew, thought I was special for a second. And since I've been reading some people like and others dislike the subaru swap I may just leave good enough alone.

I had the entire assembly removed from the vehicle.  I clamped the clevis in a bench vise and leaned on the booster to compress the spring and expose the rod.  I grabbed the rod with some pliers and used a battery impact driver to break the threaded end of the rod loose.  I tried without the impact driver but the Loctite wouldn't let loose.  Once the Loctite breaks loose it will unthread easily.

11
Samurai Tech / Re: Yet another Master cylinder question
I did the same subaru swap this summer.  My 1992 also had the retaining clip.  There is no way to get it out without disassembling the booster or damaging the clip.  Even if you decide to damage the clip getting it back in will be difficult.
In my case I didn't need to remove the entire rod but only loosen the nut to get the adjustable part of the rod out.  Replace the adjustable part with your modified screw and that's it.
12
Samurai Tech / Re: broke down

As long as both hubs are locked in and working yes it should move in 4 wheel drive

Agreed!

13
General Tech / Re: Marine alternators for offroad?
I was thinking mostly about better corrosion protection to increase lifespan of the internal electrical components.  The marine spec alternators aren't much more cost.  $20-40 more from what I saw.
14
General Tech / Marine alternators for offroad?
I'm looking into upgrading my stock samurai 1.3 alternator with the common GM swap.  While searching for alternator options I came across a bunch of marine alternators that appear to be similar to the normal automotive alternators.  After a little searching on Google, I learned why you can not use an automotive alternator in a marine application.  Nothing found on using a marine alternator in an automotive application.  The marine spec alternators have safety features built in them designed to prevent an explosion on a boat.  If its an added safety feature, it may not be a bad thing on an off-road truck.

Is there any reason not to use a marine alternator in my Samurai?

I'm looking at them hoping that they might have better corrosion protection of the internals, similar to the marine radios and speakers that so many of us use.  I wheel in a lot of mud so my engine bay will definitely get wet.  I'm trying to prevent frying alternators on a regular basis.
15
Samurai Tech / Re: Hydraulic E-Brake Modification
For what it's worth I believe manufacturers are calling it a parking brake now.  The term ebrake implies that it is sufficient enough to work in an emergency.  Most don't work for anything but parking on a very slight hill.  As far as state inspection goes you gotta do what they want whether it's the best option or not.

I've been looking at the drift style rear brake handle for my rig but we don't have safety inspection in illinois only emissions.  I'm also redoing the entire brake system so it's a good time to make changes.

Foy yours i would think replacing the stock unit would be easier cheaper and most important pass inspection.
16
How-To / Re: My DIY beadlock install
Last is the money shot of the finished beadlocks installed. ;D





And waiting patiently for me to finish my Toyota axle install.


17
How-To / Re: My DIY beadlock install
A few pictures of the new valve stem location.




A few pics of the hardware as viewed from the inside of the wheel.  You can also see the anti-coning pieces.  They are nothing more than laser cut "shims" stacked 3 high.  The shims have notches for clearance of the bolts.  I welded the shim stack together and to the back of the outer ring.  It doesn't take much more than a strong tack weld to keep them in place.  The simple design prevents over squeezing the bead of the tire but does allow you to tighten down the screws with enough torque to keep them tight.






18
How-To / Re: My DIY beadlock install
My DIY kit came with an anti-coning feature.  This is to prevent the outer ring from coning in like a bowl when the 32 bolts are tightened on the wall of the tire.  A coned outer ring looks bad but more importantly prevents the screw from sitting flat on the surface of the ring and achieving any respectable torque.  With 32 bolts, you can keep tightening all day long and never feel the bolts tighten up.  I welded my anti-coning spacers to the inside of the outer ring.  Again - OVERKILL but I'd rather spend the time now than mess with them later.  Set it and forget it!

One trick I used was to apply a generous bead of silicone to the welded area.  I don't have any pictures of it but it would be right on the weld bead or where it would have been if you ground it flat like I did.  I applied it directly to the bare steel, before painting.  if you apply it over the paint, air could escape under the paint.  I chased a few very small leaks for a while until I did the silicon trick.  Almost two years later and I haven't lost any air pressure in any of the five wheels.  Use a silicone that is capable of withstanding the outdoor elements that these wheels will see - mainly temperature.  This part of the wheel should never see sun or water but it will be exposed to temperature changes.  I found some exterior industrial silicone sealant at Home Depot that did the trick.


Next was to paint them.  I used a scotchbrite pad to scuff up the factory powder coat and sprayed them with some gloss black paint from the hardware store.
19
How-To / Re: My DIY beadlock install
Next was to grind the welds flat.  My thinking was that it would be a better clamping surface for the wall of the tire.  I would leave this step out next time.  It adds a tone of time, it's not necessary and it probably creates more problems than it solves.  Again, live and learn.

The clamping location of the tire is further inboard of the weld bead.  The weld bead does not interfere with anything.  If anything, the raised bead may help give better clamping pressure.

Grinding the weld bead flat also removes a good amount of weld material.  Strength is not a concern because I prepped the ring and wheel to ensure good penetration.  My concern is that it will probably expose pinholes or porosity in the weld that will cause air leakage.  I did chase leaks for a while until I was able to get almost all of them repaired by welding.  This also took a ton of time.  I don't know if I would have had fewer leaks without grinding the welds but it definitely wouldn't have been worse.





20
How-To / Re: My DIY beadlock install
Now for the fun part... .WELD, WELD, WELD AND MORE WELD....

Keep the bead lengths short and progressively work around the perimeter of the ring/wheel.  Again, warpage is always a concern.  These wheels on my truck will never get balanced but it's worth a little patience now to keep your rims true.

Air leaks are also a concern.  Be sure to have proper weld overlap to help prevent pinhole leaks at your start/stop points.