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Topics - RunninWild

How-To / Replace steering shaft bushing with bearing!
As I imagine a lot of you have creaking or clunking coming from your worn bushings in the steering shaft. Unfortunately as far as I know Suzuki doesn't sell the bushing and they want a ridiculous amount of money for a new shaft. I'd read online about people replacing the bushings with bearings but I had never found mention of a part number or what is involved in the process. Here it is, its quite easy to do and shouldn't take much time.

Items required:
1 or 2: 6903 2RS bearings (these are skinny, I opted for 2 but 1 is probably fine)
An old beer can of your choosing (I used lucky lager)
A flat head screwdriver and a phillips screw driver
a torx bit T20 If I remember right
And I think it was a 12mm socket

Step 1: remove the bolt holding the U joint from the upper steering shaft In the engine bay
Step 2:  remove the 4 nuts holding the bottom of the steering shaft
Step 3: remove the 6 or so phillips screws from the steering column cover, as well as the lower cover
Step 4: remove the 2 torx screws holding the upper part of the shaft
Step 5: unplug all the connectors and pull the shaft
This is a good time to fix the clicky starter issue
Step 6: remove the old bushing some how. Burning the bushing with a torch might cause it to expand enough that it will pop out but it will probably take some effort to get it out. Try not to mangle the outer shaft while doing this, when done clean up the shaft with solvent as best as possible
Step 7: Take your beer can and cut off a rectangle long enough to wrap around the outside of the bearing and about 1.5" wide, Then cut a bunch of slits in the top half of your piece and fold them down until you have something that looks similar to this

Step 8: Insert your beer can into the end of the shaft and then press the first bearing down. I was able to get the first one in fairly easily with the help of a hammer, after it was on I installed the second bearing pushing the first further down into the shaft. At this point you can trim off the metal tabs.

Step 9: put everything back together
Step 10: Grab another can of beer so you have spare metal when the bearings wear out!

The reason for the beer can is the shaft outer diameter is about .2mm larger then the bearing according to the supplier. A beer can is just over .1mm so wrapping it fully around the bearing equals roughly .2mm and makes for a perfectly snug fit with no play in the shaft! Its a very easy mod and even though I havnt driven it, its obvious the play and clunking I was getting from the bushing will be completely gone!
Samurai Tech / Another lift thread...
Looking for some opinions from people. I've been wanting spoa with YJ and RUF for quite a while now but lately I've been reconsidering spua. Regardless at the end of the day I want to run 33's and that points more towards spoa. I'm kind of being forced into buying my lift kit sooner then I was planning and could use some opinions/advice.

Anyways I've been eyeing up the tt epic trek spoa kit for a while now. Its $2000 and has everything you need and some things I dont. I have an old cross over steering arm that I could use which would save quite a bit on the kit. Piecing it together I would have
TT YJ rear ML kit $259
TT RUF ML kit $169
LROR basic spoa kit $199
LROR full shock mounting kit $189
2x Extended length U bolts $70
Bonz eye rear sami springs $240
Bonz eye YJ springs $196
= $1352

I could then get Petroworks hd clutch $225 and all I would need to do is track down some shocks and still be in well under the cost of the kit. I'm kind of surprised it all added up to be this cheap. Is there something I'm missing other then the high steer and shocks? Anyone know if TT sells the nitrogen shocks separately?

I realize these parts are from 2 different stores but I prefer lror spring perches and shock mounts over whats available at tt.
Suzuki Diesel / My build log!
This has been a long time coming. I've done a few things to my sami over the years, some more successful then others but I havnt really documented anything. I've finally been able to put some money aside and will be doing a complete rebuild of the drivetrain. If anyone has any suggestions, comments or criticisms feel free to post.

A bit of history. I bought my 86 samurai completely stock about 3 years ago now. I spent a long time researching and looking for a clean one to start a build with. This is what I ended up finding, the paint wasnt in the best condition but it had practically no rust and was much better then anything else in my area.

About a year into ownership I started gathering parts for a vw diesel swap, and about 6 months after that I started my swap in September of 2015. I rushed it, and half assed things, mainly the cooling system and big surprise I ended up overheating it after 300km. Not necessarily due to my poopy install but what I later discovered was due to the stock temp thermostat. A few months later I ended up installing my new aaz head on the 1.6td block that was in the truck. It worked but smoked way too much and was very hard to start in cold weather. I then resurfaced the original head and installed that. It worked great but I had an odd cooling issue that I couldnt figure out. It ended up being caused from an air bubble in the heatercore due to the position of the Tee that I had my overflow bottle hooked up to. Despite numerous people telling me the Tee location didn't matter as long as the bottle was at the top of the system. Unfortunately I didn't figure that out until I had given up on that engine and installed a 1.9td AAZ which magically had the same issue. Finally I went against everyone's advice and moved the tee and it ran great! Until I hooked up my oil gauge and realized I had no oil pressure. Again the half assed attitude came out in me and rather then pulling the engine and rebuilding it properly I just changed the main, rod and im shaft bearings as well as the oil pump without having the crank machined (which showed obvious wear from the completely thrased bearings). Well now the oil pressure is great except randomly it will pin my gauge too high and jump all over the place. 2 different oil pressure sensors and 2 gauges show the same behavior and I'm attributing it to some bearing material in an oil gallery blocking flow and that is where I am at now.I havn't driven the thing for more then a thousand km in the last 1.5 years.

A parts order had been put in and I will be completely rebuilding the bottom end of the block, and installing my new aaz head, along with arp head and main studs, as well as a holset he211w turbo. I will also be rebuilding my tranny, transfer case and front axle and replacing the bearings in the rear. As well as installing a better fitting rad, and an electronic power steering module. I'm still undecided on what clutch to use, and I may order a lift kit, or go on vacation with the money I'll have left over from my tax return.

Here is the engine bay today before I started the tear down
The plan for this weekend is to get everything stipped from the engine bay other then the bare engine, which will hopefully be pulled next weekend when I can track down an engine hoist.

Here is a pic of the new turbo in its new home with my home made adapter plate bolted to the vw manifold. The manifold will be flipped upside down (as it is in the pic) which will give more room and allow for my g60 intake, it also lowers the turbo quite a bit and makes that side of the engine bay less cluttered, the exhaust should also be a bit easier as it will come straight out of the turbo and then a 90 around the engine. I have to adjust the clocking of the turbo and make some kind of bracket to hold the waste gate actuator in its proper position. At its stock clocking the air outlet sits on the manifold.

Here is what I've come up with for relocating the wastegate actuator with the help of a pizza box. Its gonna be ugly but short of having new brackets welded to the housing I'm not sure what else I can do. The top "circle" would be bolted to the original mount, and then welded to an arm that supports the other end thats bolted onto housing clamp. It would be easily removeable and all I would need to do is drill a couple holes for the canister and notch an area for the arm to fit through. This will need to be fairly stiff and I'm thinking of using 3/16 or 1/8" steel. The spring on the actuator is pretty strong, like 30lbs and the mount needs to be solid and not flex or the waste gate wont open properly.

Anyways everything will be stripped cleaned and painted and reinstalled. I'm planning on relocating the battery to the driver side, removing most of the stock wiring and having a generally cleaner more organized engine bay. I'm not in a rush to get this done and I plan on taking my time and doing it properly. Hopefully it will pay off this time and I will be able to drive it!

So far I think I'm going with rustoleum hammered metal black for the engine bay, bumpers and fender flares, Por15 engine paint corporate ford blue on the engine block and accessories with duplicolour blue metalcast on the valve cover. I'm also eventually planning on painting the body with smurfadelic monstaliner (roll on bedliner).

Thats it for now. I'll update as I make progress
Samurai Tech / What exactly is needed in a rebuild kit?
Hey guys! Recently started a new job after being off of work for 5 months in training to get into a new field. That means I'm going to have money to start putting into the zuk again. I'm planning on a full rebuild of the drivetrain. I'm hoping to do the engine (1.9td), tranny and x-fer case and eventually the front/rear axles.

Anyways I've started browsing on parts and I'm just curious what I do and don't need. Is it possible to rebuild them without a hydraulic press?

I've seen basic x-fer case rebuild kits for like $60 online, they have the 3 bearings, 2 seals and the 2 gaskets, the needle bearing kits are another $30 on top of that. Then there is the lowrange total rebuild kit for $215. Is it worth spending double for the new counter shaft and thrust bearings or can these be re-used most of the time? Is there any difference in bearing quality between kits, if so what is the best to go with?

For the tranny is it necessary to replace the synchros? A basic kit is $85 while the standard kit is $175, the difference being the standard comes with new syncros. Right now mine shifts fine, I'm wanting to rebuild for maintenance reasons. I do have a bearing noise that happens when the clutch is engaged. clutch in, in neutral and its quiet, take the clutch out and it makes a noise, I believe it happens while driving as well but its hard to tell with my loud exhaust.

I'm also looking for clutch suggestions? I'm looking to save a bit of money here if possible and I'm thinking a stage 2 or 3 from low-range for $200ish rather then the name brand $350+ clutches. The stage 2 is half organic/half ceramic. Its supposed to give a stock feel and letting it slip while offering more grab when needed. The stage 3 is pure ceramic and is supposed to grab hard. Is the stage 2 strong enough to handle the vw 1.9turbo diesel? When I'm fully tuned up I'll expect somewhere around 150hp and 200ft-lbs of torque with 31/33" tires and I dont want to invest money into one that wont last. I've also got a bum knee so the lighter the clutch the better. Can I get away with a cheap one or do I need to spend the money here? For that matter can the stock tranny/xfer case handle that much power on stock gears/axles?
A couple other forum member's and myself thought it would be useful to have a database of part numbers,  torque values and useful information regarding engine work on the 1.6, 1.6td and 1.9td AAZ engines. The hopes is it will save time and confusion on people doing any kind of engine work. If anyone finds any of the numbers I post wrong, or wants anything added to the list just let me know and I will edit and update it as I find more. All of this information has been taken from other forum posts so double check them before ordering as I'm not responsible if anything is incorrect. I apologize for the different size/type and colour of font, I'm copy/ pasting all of the info I find.

I'm probably not going to complete this tonight and will add to it over the next few days.

1.6/1.6td Hydro head with 12mm head bolt part numbers and useful information:

For anyone planning on doing a head gasket job, and intends to run their engine with significant boost the MLS gasket from the 1.9l AAZ will fit on a 1.6td hydro head/block and allow higher boost levels then a 1.6. The 1, 2 and 3 notch gasket sizes are the same between applications. Also ARP studs are recommended for any significant boost levels. Also note MLS gaskets are harder to seal then "normal" gaskets and it is very important to have an extremely clean and flat mating surface. Copper gasket spray is recommended. A 1.9l AAZ head can be used on a 1.6 block however due to the lower compression this will lead to harder starting and more smoke when cold. Some people report a performance increase at higher rpms, but due to the extreme smoke a lot of people experience this is only really recommended for race engines.

1.6L Head Gasket 1980 Rabbit 1.6D:
* 3-notch (1.4mm): 068 103 383 FB
* 4-notch (1.5mm): 068 103 383 FC
* 5-notch (1.6mm): 068 103 383 FD
1981 Rabbit 1.6lD 11mm headbolt:
* 1-notch (1.4mm): 068 103 383 ES
* 2-notch (1.5mm) 068 103 838 ET
* 3-notch (1.6mm): 068 103 383 FA
81-84 Rabbit/Jetta 1.6 solid lifter 12mm headbolt:
* 1-notch (1.4mm): 068 103 838 FL
* 2-notch (1.53mm) 068 103 383 FM
* 3 notch (1.61mm): 058 103 383 FN
1986 Jetta 1.6 hydraulic:
* 1-hole (1.53mm): 068 103 383 EH
* 2-hole (1.57mm): 068 103 383 EJ
* 3-hole (1.61mm): 068 103 383 EK
The 11mm headbolt Vanagon CS engine code did get a unique head gasket:
1980-85 Vanagon 1.6 11mm headbolt (up to CS 000 338):
* 1-notch (1.4mm): 068 103 383 AT
* 2-notch (1.5mm): 068 103 383 ET
* 3-notch (1.6mm): 068 103 383 FA
Engine code JX:
* 1-hole (1.53mm): 068 103 383 FE
* 2-hole (1.57mm): 068 103 383 FF
* 3-hole (1.61mm): 068 103 383 FG
1.9L AAZ Head Gasket 
1 hole (1.53mm) 028 103 383BH
2 hole (1.57mm) 028 103 383BJ
3 hole (1.61mm) 028 103 383BK

ARP 12mm Head studs for 1.6 and 1.9l: -4706 120ft -lbs in 4 steps
12mm oem Head bolts: 068103384A -12mm 12 point socket - 30ft lbs- 45 ft lbs - 90 degrees - 90 degrees
1.6TD piston set
76.51=#90 732 600

77.01=#90 732 610
77.51=#90 732 620

1.9TD Piston Set

IM Shaft bearings:
ready to install no boring required  Mahle / Clevite SH1209S Available at rock auto

Main bearings: Highly suggested to buy the bearings that do not have the built in thrust washers
1.6td 65Nm (48 Ft. lb.)
87 475 600 STD
????  .25
????  .50
1.6td thrust washer 79233600

1.9l AAZ 48 fl-lbs + 1/4 turn IF they have a fully threaded shank 48 ft-lbs with no turn for partially threaded shank
1.9l ARP main studs ARP 204-5402
1.9l AAZ Thrust washers 77213600
77 213 600 STD
77 213 610 OVERSIZE 0.25
77 213 620 OVERSIZE 0.5

1.6td Rod Bearings: 30Nm (22 Ft lb.) +1/4 turn
87 998 600 STD
77 836 610 OVERSIZE 0.25
77 836 620 OVERSIZE 0.5
87 464 630 OVERSIZE 0.75

1.9td Rod Bearings: 22 ft lbs+1/4 turn
77 213 600 STD
77 213 610 OVERSIZE 0.25
77 213 620 OVERSIZE 0.5

36mm oil pump, suggested on all applications for increased oil flow volume

Samurai Tech / Weird electrical issues
Hey guys, I've been dealing with this issue a while now and I'm thinking its just voltage drop along the 30 year old wiring but figured I would ask for some help from the pros.

The speed of my wipers and heater fan are really inconsistent. Some days they run at full speed but most of the time they run slow. I also have a digital multi gauge that is getting a 12v feed from the cluster harness. Whenever there is a load put on the system it causes the readings from the gauge to go crazy. For example I'll be cruising at 190f coolant temp, turn on the heater and it will jump to 210f instantly, running my stereo at higher volumes causes it to constantly jump all over the place.  Also the voltage reading from the gauge drops quite low under load as well I dont remember how low off hand but I believe its around 12.25v. Alternator output measured with a voltmeter is around 13.8v when this is happening.

My amp is getting power directly from the battery and is grounded to the body from one of the bolts holding my drivers seat down. The amp is also being run directly off my phone without a head unit so its fairly independent from the rest of the electrical system, only sharing the 12v signal wire which I believe I took from the cigarette lighter circuit, or possible might also be tied into the cluster. The digi-gauge gets power from the cluster, and the heater and wipers I assume are also on their own circuitry. My headlights were also affected but I have since upgraded them with HIDs and they run on their own circuit.

Does this point to a grounding issue? Is there a common ground from the harness that I should replace?

Currently running a gm 110amp alternator, and I had the same issue with the stock one. Power wire between the alternator and battery, as well as the battery to engine and body have been upgraded with 6 gauge wiring recently with no improvement.
Suzuki Diesel / Mpg?
Hey I'm just curious what kind of mileage everyone is getting in their turbo diesel samurais and what drivetrain mods/tires they have? I'm only getting like 24mpg in my 1.9l aaz with stock tires and gearing and I'm a bit disappointed. I figured I would be closer 35ish. I'm running stock boost and a slight increase in fueling (no black smoke) with a fairly new Giles pump. I havnt put many miles on since my swap but 24mpg is pretty steady. The 1.6td I had in for roughly 200miles before I cooked the head gasket got slightly better at 29mpg. Is this fairly standard or is something off with my build?