Alternate MIL

[littlefoot]

Check Engine light not working (or connected)?  Suspect the ECM is trying to tell you something?

Since my OBD system is acting wonky at the moment, I figured out another way to check for DTC’s in a 1.6 swapped Sami.  All the ECM does to turn on the MIL is provide a ground.  You can set up an analog meter across that ground as a substitute for the MIL.

For 6 pin DLC, assumes a good connection from ECM connector C1 (pin #14) to Data Link Duty Check Connector #3 (PPL/YEL wire) AND good ECM grounds

- jump DLC connectors #2 & #4 (per FSM)
- connect an analog VOM between DLC connector #3 & ground
- set meter to check continuity
- turn key to ON
- count the needle pulses just like MIL flashes (no movement = faulty ECM)

For 4 pin DLC, assumes good connection from I/P connector pin/tab #5 from (BRN/BLK wire through splice to PPL/YEL wire) to ECM (pin #14) AND good ECM grounds.

- jump DLC connectors #2 & #3
- connect VOM between I/P connector C1 (tab/pin #5) & ground
- set meter to check continuity
- turn key to ON
- count the needle pulses just like MIL flashes (no movement = faulty ECM)
 

[Skyman]

awesome information thanks. I don;t have an MIL hooked up and want to pull codes

[aarolar]

Mine flashes the ""all good"" code all the time any ideas why and what to do about it besides pull the bulb?

[Surly]

Mine flashes the ""all good"" code all the time any ideas why and what to do about it besides pull the bulb?

There should not be a fuse in the lower right slot of your fuse block. If you have one there, pull it out.