Bypass Toyota Ignition and Coil

[msmoke]

I was asked to do a write up on this. So here it is in as much detail as i can go into without tearing my harness apart and redoing it. Some of you might ask why you want to replace a fairly reliable system with GM parts, no real benefit that i know of, other then cost and availability of parts. All the parts are stocked at my local auto parts store, and i can replace the ignition module and coil for 30$, where the original ignitor on the Toyota ignition costs over 250$ and is not stocked at any parts stores to my knowledge. I did this on a 22r engine, i would not see why it would not work on a 22re, but i have not tested it myself. It will work on a 20r, or any carbed toyota engine for sure.

Parts Required:
Ignition Module from a 1979 GM truck with a 350 CI engine Autozone P/N DR100
Coil from a 1972 Chevrolet k10 4wd truck with a 350 CI engine Autozone P/N C819
Optionally you can get or build a heat sink to mount the ignition module to. It is not needed but it wouldn't hurt.

Special Tools Required:
Soldering Iron and resin core solder
Misc. wire connectors
Wire Crimping Pliers
Test Light

Important to know:
You will find 4 connections on the ignition module. Being marked B, C, G, W.

B = +12v Power
C = Ground to Coil
W = Signal wire from distributor
G = Signal wire from distributor


Installation:
First off, start by removing the toyota ignition and coil, it is one unit on the toyota. It will have 3 wires running into it from the harness, 2 from the distributor and 1 spark plug wire.

Then find a place to mount your ignition module. Either inside the cab or in the engine bay. Drill your holes and mount your ignition module down. You will notice the holes are lined with steel for the mounting, this is the ground for you module. I attached a wire from one of the mounting bolts, to a clean body ground to insure proper grounding of the module.

Secondly, find a place to mount your new round coil. This will need to be somewhat close to the distributor as it has to have a spark plug wire attaching it to the coil.

After both have been mounted the job is darn near done, here comes the easy part, wiring everything up.

You will find 4 connections on the ignition module. Being marked B, C, G, W.

B = +12v Power
C = Ground to Coil
W = Signal wire from distributor
G = Signal wire from distributor


First off, find yourself +12v keyed power. You can use a test light and use the original wiring, or hook in anywhere that has keyed power, if running it off another circuit other then the original ignition circuit make sure it is fused. 99% of everyone will use there original +12v power wire that ran to the coil (samurai) or ignitor (toy) because the factory ignition fuse in the fuse box will be functional.

Keyed power runs to the B terminal on the ignition module. I used a connector to attach it to the terminal. Off of this terminal you will need to run a second wire, which will be a hot +12v power wire that runs to the + side of the coil.

C terminal is a ground wire for your coil, so run a wire from C terminal to the - side of your coil.

Now you have G and W left to wire on the ignition module. Take a look at your distributor, you have 2 wires running off of it. You need to attach one to the G terminal and one to the W terminal. I have found it to be indifferent as to which goes where on my system.

Quick System rundown for troubleshooting:

When you hit the key, you apply 12v power to the ignition module at terminal B, and to the coil, which then goes back to the ignition module on terminal C. The coil begins to energize waiting for a ground to make it discharge. When you crank the engine, the magnetic pickup will signal the ignition module through the wires attached to terminals W & G to create a ground on post C, which then grounds the coil and makes it discharge through the spark plug wire and back into the distributor cap.

I said that much because it is quite possible that the magnetic pick up in the distributor is not set properly. This is referred to as air gap, and must be set with a feeler gauge. It is very easy to set, but if it is off you will never get spark. Other troubleshooting procedures can be found in the factory service manual with specs on resistance and such for the Distributor.

Cheesy Wiring Diagram:


Picture:


If i misspelled anything or if i contradict myself at any point please point it out and i will get everything straightened out for you. Hope this helps someone.

[ZUKIMON]

Thanks so much for doing this. This should be a nice addition for someone who either breaks down on the trail, doesn't have access to a used ignitor or just wants to have a backup that doesn't cost an arm and a leg and can pick up the parts in practically any parts house the same day.   It should also work on just about any engine that we see fit to use in our rigs, or even some that we daily drive.

[msmoke]

Thanks so much for doing this. This should be a nice addition for someone who either breaks down on the trail, doesn't have access to a used ignitor or just wants to have a backup that doesn't cost an arm and a leg and can pick up the parts in practically any parts house the same day.   It should also work on just about any engine that we see fit to use in our rigs, or even some that we daily drive.

The entire reason i actually did this is i could not find what was wrong with my ignition set up, and i got so fed up with trying to wire in the toyota stuff thinking that was the problem i did this. When i did the swap nothing worked, and i was furious, i had set everything twice in the disty and checked all connections, ect, and as far as i could tell both systems should of worked.

It ended up being that my distributor was so corroded inside that it could not make contacts. I ended up dismantling it and sanding all the corrosion off the steel parts, i put it back together and its been running fine ever since. So i ditched a perfectly good ignitor and coil for nothing. But i am still glad i set it up like this, so much simpler and stupid cheap to fix if something fails.

[DrTed]

Msmoke:

Thank you so much for the information you have provided regarding bypassing the coil and ignition module on a 22R.

I assume that what you are calling the "spark plug wire" is a black heavily insulated wire identical in appearance to the wires running from the distributor to the 4 spark plugs that connects from the distributor  cap to the coil, and that what you are calling the "signalling wires"  are a red wire and a white wire that  run together in a gray sheath from the bottom of the distributor and connect to the ignition module in the lower part of the combination coil/igniter in the original Toyota issue.  Is that correct?

I went to the parts store today and purchased an ignition module and coil according to your specifications.  The ignition module looks just like your picture.  The coil is very similar in appearance to the original Toyota coil, in fact it buttons down perfectly to the original housing that bolts to the driver's side fender.  However there is no place to insert what I believe you are calling the "spark plug wire". 

The new coil that I purchased has three wires.  A yellow wire (on the left), a black wire (in the center), and a red wire (on the right).  I assume that the red and yellow wires are the positive and negative terminals (however I cannot tell which is which) and that the black wire is equivalent to the terminal where the "spark plug wire" should connect.  Is that correct?

So my questions are:

1.  Have I correctly identified what you are calling the "signalling wires" and what you are calling the "spark plug wire"?

2.  Did I purchase the right coil?

3.  If I have the right coil, how can I tell which side is positive and which is negative?  Does it matter?

4.  If I have the correct coil, should I attach the "spark plug wire" to the small black wire in the center of the coil?  Any suggestions on how to do that?

I appreciate very much any advice you can provide.

Sincerely,

DrTed

[msmoke]

1. (A) Yes those are the signal wires, they are in a protective cover from the factory, and are the only 2 copper wires attached to the distributor.

(B) Yes you have identified the spark plug wire i am refering to. It will most likely have to be custom made. I have 100 feet of spark plug wire on hand (i bought from napa) i will sell to you super cheap. Napa only sold stupid lengths and you need less then 2 feet. I think i sold it for .50 cents a foot to the last person + the cost of a shipping if you don't want any extra laying around. Napa carries the ends and booties needed to build the wire, you just crimp the ends on, like regular wire ends, and slide the boots over.

2. No you did not purchase the right coil. That was my mistake and i appologize, hope you kept your reciept. I looked it up, and the coil for a 79 chevrolet is wrong. You need a cylinder shaped coil similar to what comes in the samurai. After digging up my reciept it was off of a '72 chevrolet k10 4wd pick up. Part number is C819 at autozone, price was 18.99$.



That is the coil, you can clearly see where the "spark plug wire" goes. The two small nuts are where you connect the positive and negative wires, you will just need some wire connectors to get them to attach.

I will PM a moderator and ask them to change my original post since i can no longer edit it to keep others from falling victim to my mental error. If you have any more questions feel free to post or PM me and ill help ya through it.

[DrTed]

msmoke,

Thanks for your prompt and helpful reply.  I've got my receipt and I'll go get the right coil.  I think I may be able to use the original lead to connect the distributor to the coil, otherwise I'll let you know about the wire.  Thanks again.

DrTed

[msmoke]

No problem man glad i could help. Thanks to Dave for fixing my error, the post should be accurate now.

[Whitfield]

Woo hooo!   

 Oncore Oncore....


Now I need one to convert my old Harley Davidson motorcycle Trail bikes (90cc, 125cc, and 250cc)  from points to electronic ignition.   Old harley trail bike parts are scarce.     

[SamuraiCR]

Great!
This is very helpfull!

[freakyfishy]

No problem man glad i could help. Thanks to Dave for fixing my error, the post should be accurate now.

AMAZING FOOD FOR THOUGHT FOR ME I JUST WONDER IF I COULD INCORPORAE THIS SET UP INTO A 5SFE  AND NOT FRY THE ECU ON IT IN THE PROCESS OF IT

I CAME TO THIS PAGE AFTER MY CAR WOULDN'T START CAUSED BY MOISTURE ISSUE  IT'S RUNNING FINE NOW  SADLY DIDN'T REALIZE IT PROBABLY WOULDN'T WORK AFTER NOTICING THAT THIS WAS A SINGLE OVERHEAD CAM ENGINE MORE THAN LIKELY W/O AN ECU

I APPOLOJIZE FORTHE CAPS SICK AND TIRED FOUGHT WITH THE CAR IN THE RAIN 4 2 DAYS

i registered just to throw this out there and see if anyone had any ideas on what i could do about bypassing the $300 igniter and $120 coil for my car
it's a 91 MR2 na thanks 

[DrTed]

No problem man glad i could help. Thanks to Dave for fixing my error, the post should be accurate now.

Msmoke:  Just wanted to let you know that I was successful in making your system work on my '85 22r.  I actually removed the original coil and ignition module from the frame that holds them then devised a way to mount the new ignition module and coil back onto the same frame.  I used the original signal wires (one red, one white) from the coil.  I initially connected the red signal wire to the W terminal on the module and the white signal wire to the G terminal.  With this configuration, the engine would idle fairly well, but would not rev up well. When I switched the signal wires so that the white signal wire connected to the W terminal and the red signal wire connected to the G terminal, the engine ran flawlessly.

Thanks again,  I'm a happy guy.

DrTed

[msmoke]

AMAZING FOOD FOR THOUGHT FOR ME I JUST WONDER IF I COULD INCORPORAE THIS SET UP INTO A 5SFE  AND NOT FRY THE ECU ON IT IN THE PROCESS OF IT

I CAME TO THIS PAGE AFTER MY CAR WOULDN'T START CAUSED BY MOISTURE ISSUE  IT'S RUNNING FINE NOW  SADLY DIDN'T REALIZE IT PROBABLY WOULDN'T WORK AFTER NOTICING THAT THIS WAS A SINGLE OVERHEAD CAM ENGINE MORE THAN LIKELY W/O AN ECU

I APPOLOJIZE FORTHE CAPS SICK AND TIRED FOUGHT WITH THE CAR IN THE RAIN 4 2 DAYS

i registered just to throw this out there and see if anyone had any ideas on what i could do about bypassing the $300 igniter and $120 coil for my car
it's a 91 MR2 na thanks 

I believe the only issue you would run into with anything fuel injected is if the computer monitors ignition advance. If you take out the factory ignition controlled by the ECM, then the computer has no way to monitor the advance.

I am glad you got it to work man. Please don't give me all the praise this was not my brainchild. I found it on Pirate4x4.com just the write up was very poor, so i expanded apon it.

[SamuraiCR]

msmoke: what type of distributor has de 22r motor? It is magnetic?
I will tray this bypass on a 4age...

[msmoke]

msmoke: what type of distributor has de 22r motor? It is magnetic?
I will tray this bypass on a 4age...

Yes it has a magnetic pickup to send signal to the ignition module.

[SamuraiCR]

Yes it has a magnetic pickup to send signal to the ignition module.

Thanks, I have a friend that will go to the USA this October, He will buy the ignition module for me....