Author Topic: CS130 GM Alternator 105a??? Wiring Help Please!  (Read 44322 times)

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Offline aaronbev79

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I purchased a CS130 alternator from ebay, and a bracket from roadlessgear.com -- the only problem is that the alternator is has a 4 pin connector and the battery connection, rather than the two pin with battery connection like the DIY article uses. How do I wire the 4 pin connector into the samurai harness? Does anyone know the part number for a pigtail that will plug into this alternator -- to be used for connecting to my harness? Any help would be greatly appreciated -- I searched but no one has mentioned how to wire this particular GM alternator -- thanks.
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Offline ack

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Try Googling  gm cs130.

I found a "service" manual" of sorts at www.alternatorparts.com that might be helpful.
Ack
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Offline aaronbev79

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I have, and I've found the info on what each little terminal connector does, but I need to know how to find the plastic plug that plugs in and connects to this alternator -- so that I can connect the requisite wires to get this thing running properly. So, I was wondering if anyone else has used this alternator or an alternator with a 4 wire plug-in connection plus the connection for the battery cable.
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Offline catfishblues

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Most auto parts stores carry the pigtail. Common item.
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Offline aaronbev79

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Yep -- I just took my alternator to the parts store today and found one that will work fine. I didn't realize that parts stores actually carried random little electrical parts like this.
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Offline aaronbev79

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Ok -- wait -- I need more help. The connector only has three wires for the four wire connection -- they are labelled: "S" "I" "L" "P" -- The place for the "P" wire has no wire coming out of the pigtail.

The "S" wire is red and appears to be 12 gauge wire: according to the wiring schematic: "The use of the "P", "F", and "S" terminals is optional. The "P" terminal is connected to the stator, and may be connected externally to a tachometer or other device. The "F" terminal is connected internally to field positive, and may be used as a fault indicator. The "S" terminal may be connected externally to a voltage, such as battery voltage, to sense the voltage to be controlled."

The schematic ways this about the "L" wire: "The output wire to the battery positive, and an "L" terminal wire connected to the charge indicator bulb, or to the resistor, or to both."

Finally, it says this: "Where the regulator is identified with an "I" marking on the regulator case, the circuit in Figure 3A applies. In this circuit, both the "L" and "I" terminals serve to turn on the regulator and allow field current to flow when the switch is closed. The  "I" terminal may be connected directly to the switch, or through a resistor. Both are illustrated. The "I" circuit may be used with or without the "L" circuit; that is, with  or without anything connected to the "L" circuit."

My question: I know that the large terminal connects directly to the battery, but which two other wires do I use to connect to the samurai's harness?
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Offline aaronbev79

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Finally, it says this: "Where the regulator is identified with an "I" marking on the regulator case, the circuit in Figure 3A applies. In this circuit, both the "L" and "I" terminals serve to turn on the regulator and allow field current to flow when the switch is closed. The  "I" terminal may be connected directly to the switch, or through a resistor. Both are illustrated. The "I" circuit may be used with or without the "L" circuit; that is, with  or without anything connected to the "L" circuit."

Alright -- after trying to figure this stuff out (I don't have a lot of experience with wiring) -- I think that I only need to connect the "I" and the "L" terminals to the two samurai wiring harness connections. The wiring schematic says that all the other terminals (on the four pin connector) are optional -- so I guess I just have to use the method on Figmo's site to determine which wire connects to which.

Does this sound right???
« Last Edit: Saturday, July 19, 2008, 01:39:52 PM by aaronbev79 »
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Offline aaronbev79

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Anyone?
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Offline aaronbev79

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Bump
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Offline walkerskyranch

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Aaron, I have the same problem.... dang it!  HELP someone

Offline Kermit

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Hi, there have been several threads on hooking up a CS130 lately. Here is one of them:

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,106397.0.html
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Offline walkerskyranch

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Kermit, Thanks, that helps alot.
Off hand .. do you know the part number for the pig tail that fits the 4 pin socket on my alternator
Hi, there have been several threads on hooking up a CS130 lately. Here is one of them:

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,106397.0.html

Offline Kermit

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Kermit, Thanks, that helps alot.
Off hand .. do you know the part number for the pig tail that fits the 4 pin socket on my alternator

If you are hooking up to a stock harness using the idiot light in the dash, the following parts can be used. These are non-resistor adapters:
- AC Delco: 8077
- Haywire: 2110
- Painless Wiring: 30707
- NAPA: EC80
- GM: 12083462

The adaptors I list above are designed to install a CS alt in place of an SI and will therefore have an addl connector that you will have to cut off. If you have an alternator rebuilder near you they will likely have the pigtail you need for a few dollars. It will consist of a connector with a couple wires sticking out. Another option is the junkyard. Almost any GM with a CS130 or CS144 will have the required connector. Just be aware that GM connected them several ways and you need the right wires for the application.
« Last Edit: Friday, February 26, 2010, 09:26:33 AM by Kermit »
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Offline walkerskyranch

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Kermit
If I am not using the idiot light in the dash, how should I wire it?

Offline warbird

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I've updated these to be more Suzuki specific:

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=1368

HTH


Offline Kermit

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Kermit
If I am not using the idiot light in the dash, how should I wire it?

What type of alternator/harness are you running currently? I have never connected one up this way but actually pulled a CS144 off a Caddy that was wired this way. I cannot tell you about the postive/negatives about this method but it is acceptable:

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Offline warbird

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Found my list of Part Numbers!  ;D

Ultima (O'Reily): 01-0396
AC Delco: 334-1034
Remy (Worldwide): 20396
Dualast (Autozone): DL1352-6-3

(fits 1992 GM C/K 2500 Pickup w/ 454cid Engine, VIN "N")

Pigtail: 85854 

Offline Merlin93

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The advantage of connecting the S (sense) wire directly to the alternator output is that it measures the output voltage directly, and eliminates a bunch of old, problematic Samurai wiring. If this OEM wiring is the least bit faulty, the alternator output will fluctuate and could easily overcharge the battery. But, you must have the heavy gauge (#6 or larger) new charge wire going directly to the battery in any case.  Without it, you will surely blow the OEM fusible link, sooner or later. [The disadvantage is that it controls the vehicle voltage slightly less precisely, with about ¼ Volt of sag at 100A. A large heavy charging wire helps to minimize this effect.]   
If you can fuse or otherwise protect the new heavy charge wire, so much the better. The largest MAXI fuse is rated at 80A.  If you draw 100A for only a very few minutes at a time, you could be OK with a single fuse.  If you expect to draw 100A for very long, or if you blow the fuse frequently, (they only last a short while at full-rated current -- that's hours, not years), you could use two fuses in parallel, right at the battery, with a few inches of smaller wire (e.g. #12) for fuse lead wires.  The few inches of smaller wire helps to equalize the fuse currents.  For 100A, the total fuse ratings should add up to over 100A so your fuses will last.  Two 60A or 70A MAXI fuses in parallel should work OK.  I'd carry spares.
« Last Edit: Monday, March 01, 2010, 12:34:35 PM by Merlin93 »

Offline RockMolester

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The advantage of connecting the S (sense) wire directly to the alternator output is that it measures the output voltage directly, and eliminates a bunch of old, problematic Samurai wiring. If this OEM wiring is the least bit faulty, the alternator output will fluctuate and could easily overcharge the battery. But, you must have the heavy gauge (#6 or larger) new charge wire going directly to the battery in any case.  Without it, you will surely blow the OEM fusible link, sooner or later. [The disadvantage is that it controls the vehicle voltage less slightly precisely, with about ¼ Volt of sag at 100A. A large heavy charging wire helps to minimize this effect.]   
If you can fuse or otherwise protect the new heavy charge wire, so much the better. The largest MAXI fuse is rated at 80A.  If you draw 100A for only a very few minutes at a time, you could be OK with a single fuse.  If you expect to draw 100A for very long, or if you blow the fuse frequently, (they only last a short while at full-rated current -- that's hours, not years), you could use two fuses in parallel, right at the battery, with a few inches of smaller wire (e.g. #12) for fuse lead wires.  The few inches of smaller wire helps to equalize the fuse currents.  For 100A, the total fuse ratings should add up to over 100A so your fuses will last.  Two 60A or 70A MAXI fuses in parallel should work OK.  I'd carry spares.

This was the exact problem I was having, but now that my sense wire is hooked up to the +12v output, the problem is 100% completely resolved.

I have a 175 amp maxi fuse on my charge lead.
1987 Samurai - 3" suspension, 2" body lift
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Offline warbird

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Just for the sake of discussion  ??? [idea] ;D

I've been pondering about an alternate location to "tap" the system load (other than the alternator output).  Besides the existing BLK/WHT ignition circuit, any thoughts on another place to run a "fresh" wire for the voltage regulator "S" (sensor) input?

Fuel Pump?
Sensor B+?
ECM Memory?
Radio?