I took some rough
measurements in my 4 door...
Let's say there's 2 pieces I need: #1
I'll call "belly". This piece will run from the front cross member, and run back to the transfer-case mount. "Big belly pan's"
width will go from frame rail to frame rail. It's in danger of getting melted from it's proximity to the exhaust & cat. Dimensions: 32" x 32"
belly pan will be much narrower, leaving the exhaust exposed. Because it wouldn't be bolted to frame, it may be a weaker design & need provisions for extra support. Dimensions 32" x 16"
. Both protect front drive shaft, transmission, t-case, and rear of oil pan.#2
I'll call "front skid"
. It runs from somewhere near the front bumper, and back to the cross member. It protects the carrier (aka front diff), and front of the oil pan. Dimensions: 21" x 21"
UHMW is only rated up to 280F, and constant temp operating temp of 180F (I'm sure HDPE is similar), so I don't think a big belly pan would work. http://www.jjorly.com/uhmw_technical_data_sheet.htm
A front skid looks much more tricky. I think taping into the cross-member would be easy enough, but I don't see a flat area to attach at the bumper end. Might be able to use the bolts where the lower A-arms are, but that will require some heating and bending: http://www.garlandmfg.com/plastics/heatformingparts.html
. Ideally, I would think it best to have some kind of heating "rod" that the material could be bent over / around - where the heat is localized to the area desired to bend.
I think it's best to have the belly & skid as two separate sections, so it's easy to unbolt the front skid for oil changes. Trying to work through drilled-out access holes just sounds like a PITA (lost drain plug bolt & a big oily mess on the back-side of the skid).