For everyone who has emailed me on info for my doubler box I wanted to make a separate build post from my "Spider" build post (http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,64986.0.html
) as this is better for tech as a separate post I feel. Well I finally finished my reduction box and here is my build thread on how I did it.
I wanted a doubler from Scott "RockRat" but he put his production on hold for the time being and www.ottindustries.com
has an approx. wait of 6 months+ so I decided to build my own with the help of my buddy and his fab/laser shop. So thanks to my buddy Dan and his employee's, Lon and Rodney! also thanks to Mark my machinist buddy that did my lathe work
I would also like to thank Kevin "Skyhiranger" for his build post and help/PM's, his do it yourself post was my biggest help/inspiration
Here is a link to his buildhttp://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,46349.0.html
I would like also to thank Klaus from Germany "kasematukl for all the drawings he got me that made it all look very professional
here is a link to his buildhttp://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,75046.0.html
I would also like to thank Mason "Skyman" for the free SideKick driveshaft he sent me clear out of the blue for my coupler piece just because he wanted to be a nice guy!
Scott 'RockRat" did call me with a box he came up with and gave me first dibs on, but by that time I was 3/4 finished with mine and passed. so thanks also Scott for the offer
I began with a 94 SideKick t-case and we cut the front output section off in a band saw, Here is my buddy Dan starting the cut.
I then trimmed, ground down, cut and sized up the the leftover piece to fit into the main case as a filler piece to be eventually welded in.
Note:I recommend do not weld this filler piece until the box project is finally completed as I used the cut out in the main case as an access window to work on the inside of the case as I was building it.
Here is a couple shots of the filler piece set in the main case void where it will eventually get welded permanent as a complete box.
Here is a pic of the main shaft with all the stock gears and bearings still on it that was removed from the Kick t-case
I removed in my press the gears, collars etc. that are no longer needed, I then had a 1/2" thick ring lasered out to just accept/fit one of the leftover stock SideKick t-case bearings (#6306 72mm) that I robbed off from the left over parts. this will be the rear support bearing in the blockoff plate to support and keep the stock shaft from walking back and forth as some guys where having problems with this happening,
I made a small spacer/coller to slide over the main shaft out of some correct size pipe/tube I had laying around to fill the gap I needed to space the support bearing into the blockoff plate. (screw driver is pointing at spacer/collar)
Here is the 1/4" steel rear blockoff plate. Alot of people use aluminum for there blockoff plate, I decided on steel as I could weld on it and get the parts all lasered. using 1/4" steel is as strong or stronger and being 1/4" also got me the clearance I needed between the blockoff plate and the Zuk t-case shifter housing.
Here I am drilling all the perimeter case bolt holes
Here is a shot of the support bearing in its 1/2" retainer that will eventually get welded to the blockoff plate and become one complete piece, this is looking through the cutout portion of the box, (here is why I say don't weld the filler piece in till later)
With the main shaft installed in case and the 1/4" steel blockoff plate bolted down to the case with rear support bearing pressed in 1/2" retainer, everything where it needed to be, I tack welded the rear bearing retainer to the blockoff plate through the side of the case. now everything is lined up to be straight (the glove is to prevent weld spatter from sticking to internals)
I then had a 1/4" ring lasered out to fit the O.D. of the rear output shaft seal (National#22350)
This seal retainer ring will eventually get welded to the steel blockoff plate,
Note: I used some electric horse fencing wire to fit the groove in the shaft, then wrapped it tight with some electrical tape, this allowed for on and off removal of the seal as I was figuring things out so not to wreck the seal lip, I also bought an extra seal for a spare in case one did get ruined
I then had a twin 1/2" steel ring piece lasered that will be the outside tunnel flange, this will get through bolted into the drilled and tapped holes going into the inside 1/2" steel rear bearing retainer ring.
I used an 8mm X 1.25 thread 4 flute tap for all holes that I tapped
I then picked up some 1/4" wall 3" steel tube/pipe for the tunnel that will connect the Kick box to the Zuk t-case.
Here the seal retainer ring is tack welded to the blockoff plate, I then used an old Toy axle magnetic drain plug as a case drain plug, I went to NAPA and picked up an 18mm weldable threaded bung to weld to the blockoff plate to accept the drain plug. I also drilled and tapped a 3/4" hole for a brass fill plug.
I used a left over spring and washer from one of the leftover shift rods pressing a rubber o-ring against the inside of the blockoff plate around the shift rod as an oil seal when everything gets bolted together.
I had a steel 3/8" t-case mount bracket lasered out that will get welded to the tunnel piece connecting the t-case and Kick box.
I then made some 5/8" round spacers approx. 3/4" tall and welded them to the 3/8" thick t-case bracket. I also clearanced with a grinder to fit the bracket flush down onto the t-case input housing.
Here is a shot mocked up in the rig without the connecting tunnel.
Here is the clearance I was able to get using the 1/4" steel between the Kick blockoff plate and the Zuk t-case shifter housing I referred to earlier. If you where to use thicker aluminum you would have to have it milled for clearance, this would be needed to get the Zuk t-case to still land in the stock t-case mounts. this is what I wanted.
In this pic it looks like the missing bolt would interfere with the shifter housing when installed but it does just clear past when installed.
I then had a machine shop buddy lathe down and bore my Kick mainshaft to size to accept the Zuk t-case input shaft.
Here it is all bolted back together and shafts lined up and into eachother installed back in the rig still without the connecting tunnel welded on or coupler.
I then had my same machine shop buddy cut and turn down the slip shaft portion of the stock SideKick driveshaft. this will be the coupler that locks/connects the two splined shafts together.
Here is a shot of the internal splined coupler on the splined input shaft of the zuk t-case.
Here is a shot of the internal splined coupler on the splined shaft in the tunnel connector.
Here it is all bolted up with the tunnel connector tack welded, sizing things up for the final weld of the tunnel connector.
Here it is finally all welded up.