Author Topic: Weed's Kick doubler/reduction box  (Read 20479 times)

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Offline weed

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 For everyone who has emailed me on info for my doubler box I wanted to make a separate build post from my "Spider" build post  (http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,64986.0.html)  as this is better for tech as a separate post I feel. Well I finally finished my reduction box and here is my build thread on how I did it.
 I wanted a doubler from Scott "RockRat" but he put his production on hold for the time being and www.ottindustries.com has an approx. wait of 6 months+ so I decided to build my own with the help of my buddy and his fab/laser shop. So thanks to my buddy Dan and his employee's, Lon and Rodney! also thanks to Mark my machinist buddy that did my lathe work ;)

 I would also like to thank Kevin "Skyhiranger" for his build post and help/PM's, his do it yourself post was my biggest help/inspiration ;)
Here is a link to his build
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,46349.0.html

 I would like also to thank Klaus from Germany "kasematukl for all the drawings he got me that made it all look very professional ;)
here is a link to his build
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,75046.0.html
 
I would also like to thank Mason "Skyman" for the free SideKick driveshaft he sent me clear out of the blue for my coupler piece just because he wanted to be a nice guy! ;) ;D thanks bud!

 Scott 'RockRat" did call me with a box he came up with and gave me first dibs on, but by that time I was 3/4 finished with mine and passed. so thanks also Scott for the offer ;)

I began with a 94 SideKick t-case and we cut the front output section off in a band saw, Here is my buddy Dan starting the cut.





I then trimmed, ground down, cut and sized up the the leftover piece to fit into the main case as a filler piece to be eventually welded in.
Note:I recommend do not weld this filler piece until the box project is finally completed as I used the cut out in the main case as an access window to work on the inside of the case as I was building it. ;)

Here is a couple shots of the filler piece set in the main case void where it will eventually get welded permanent as a complete box.



Here is a pic of the main shaft with all the stock gears and bearings still on it that was removed from the Kick t-case

 I removed in my press the gears, collars etc. that are no longer needed, I then had a 1/2" thick ring lasered out to just accept/fit one of the leftover stock SideKick t-case bearings (#6306 72mm) that I robbed off from the left over parts. this will be the rear support bearing in the blockoff plate to support and keep the stock shaft from walking back and forth as some guys where having problems with this happening,

I made a small spacer/coller to slide over the main shaft out of some correct size pipe/tube I had laying around to fill the gap I needed to space the support bearing into the blockoff plate. (screw driver is pointing at spacer/collar)



Here is the 1/4" steel rear blockoff plate. Alot of people use aluminum for there blockoff plate, I decided on steel as I could weld on it and get the parts all lasered. using 1/4" steel is as strong or stronger and being 1/4" also got me the clearance I needed between the blockoff plate and the Zuk t-case shifter housing.

Here I am drilling all the perimeter case bolt holes

Here is a shot of the support bearing in its 1/2" retainer that will eventually get welded to the blockoff plate and become one complete piece, this is looking through the cutout portion of the box, (here is why I say don't weld the filler piece in till later)
With the main shaft installed in case and the 1/4" steel blockoff plate bolted down to the case with rear support bearing pressed in 1/2" retainer, everything where it needed to be, I tack welded the rear bearing retainer to the blockoff plate through the side of the case. now everything is lined up to be straight (the glove is to prevent weld spatter from sticking to internals)

I then had a 1/4" ring lasered out to fit the O.D. of the rear output shaft seal (National#22350)

This seal retainer ring will eventually get welded to the steel blockoff plate,
Note: I used some electric horse fencing wire to fit the groove in the shaft, then wrapped it tight with some electrical tape, this allowed for on and off removal of the seal as I was figuring things out so not to wreck the seal lip, I also bought an extra seal for a spare in case one did get ruined ;)


I then had a twin 1/2" steel ring piece lasered that will be the outside tunnel flange, this will get through bolted into the drilled and tapped holes going into the inside 1/2" steel rear bearing retainer ring.



I used an 8mm X 1.25 thread 4 flute tap for all holes that I tapped

I then picked up some 1/4" wall 3" steel tube/pipe for the tunnel that will connect the Kick box to the Zuk t-case.

Here the seal retainer ring is tack welded to the blockoff plate, I then used an old Toy axle magnetic drain plug as a case drain plug, I went to NAPA and picked up an 18mm weldable threaded bung to weld to the blockoff plate to accept the drain plug. I also drilled and tapped a 3/4" hole for a brass fill plug.

I used a left over spring and washer from one of the leftover shift rods pressing a rubber o-ring against the inside of the blockoff plate around the shift rod as an oil seal when everything gets bolted together.
I had a steel 3/8" t-case mount bracket lasered out that will get welded to the tunnel piece connecting the t-case and Kick box.

I then made some 5/8" round spacers approx. 3/4" tall and welded them to the 3/8" thick t-case bracket. I also clearanced with a grinder to fit the bracket flush down onto the  t-case input housing.


Here is a shot mocked up in the rig without the connecting tunnel.


Here is the clearance I was able to get using the 1/4" steel between the Kick blockoff plate and the Zuk t-case shifter housing I referred to earlier. If you where to use thicker aluminum you would have to have it milled for clearance, this would be needed to get the Zuk t-case to still land in the stock t-case mounts. this is what I wanted. ;)

In this pic it looks like the missing bolt would interfere with the shifter housing when installed but it does just clear past when installed.


I then had a machine shop buddy lathe down and bore my Kick mainshaft to size to accept the Zuk t-case input shaft.

Here it is all bolted back together and shafts lined up and into eachother installed back in the rig still without the connecting tunnel welded on or coupler.

I then had my same machine shop buddy cut and turn down the slip shaft portion of the stock SideKick driveshaft. this will be the coupler that locks/connects the two splined shafts together.

Here is a shot of the internal splined coupler on the splined input shaft of the zuk t-case.

Here is a shot of the internal splined coupler on the splined shaft in the tunnel connector.

Here it is all bolted up with the tunnel connector tack welded, sizing things up for the final weld of the tunnel connector.

Here it is finally all welded up.




« Last Edit: Thursday, September 20, 2012, 07:09:39 AM by beekiller »
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Offline weed

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I also made a t-case bucket/cradle from scrap metal I had laying around a while back and here are the pics of it. My t-case is tied into the bucket with a total of 16 case bolts.





 For my shifter mechanism I came up with this idea,
 I picked up a rear drum brake from a junk motorcycle for the splined shaft and lever, and also a kick down lever from some vehicle tranny my buddy Jeff "stripes" gave me ;)

the removed shaft from the drum.

I cut and welded a 3/8" bolt to the end of the shift lever and installed a jamb nut and threaded knob.

I then took the vehicle kickdown lever and cut a key/foot out of it to fit into my notched shift shaft coming out of the Kick reduction box.

here it is all fabbed up with a piece of tube welded to the 1/4" steel blockoff plate.


I had in the beginning cut out my tunnel for easy access of this setup, this was a very big help for the approx. 20 to 25 times of in and out of this setup mocking things up! :P



This shot shows the 2" strips of sheet I welded in to the floor to attach my upcoming removable console to.

I started by making my console out of a bunch of pieces of sheet, cutting and trimming them all down to size then tack welding them in piece by piece eventually making it all a one piece console.

I then cut/ground down all the edges and finished all the edges with a 60 grit flapper wheel on my 4 1/2" angle grinder.



I then cut an access hole and made a removable panel just for the Kick doubler shifter, I can also access my fill plug for the Kick box. I then welded on a piece of 2' exhaust pipe I had laying around for the rubber boot to fit over.

I then used the stock rubber boot from the SideKick 4WD lever this boot fit like it was made for it ;D

I then drilled and bolted the console down to the zuk tunnel, welding all the nuts to the inside of the Zuk tunnel so the console can be removed with one wrench and one person from the interior;D

And finally pulled everthing apart for hopefully the last time and brought my empty case down to my buddy to have it welded shut, here is the blockoff plate all bolted down to keep the filler piece in place and lined up for welding.



I forgot to get a pic of the aluminum box welded up when I got it back, but this aluminum is very pourus and seems to soak up the oil over time making it hard to get a good clean weld, even though I spent a lot of time cleaning I even sand blasted around the aluminum area to be welded, Scott "RockRat" and I had talked about this so I was wondering how it would weld up :P eventually my buddy got it welded up after a lot of effort but as a precaution I picked up some JB weld and coated the inside and outside welds as a precaution from leaking. I let it dry up for about 2 days before final assembly and it looks really good!




Well here it is all bolted, filled with hardware, sealed up and installed for "I hope" the final time in my rig, I just need to finish the go through bolt t-case mounts (Note:) I made the whole Kick doubler setup to land in the original three Zuk t-case mounts also.I also removed my original Zuk tranny cross member as it no longer is needed as this is all a one piece married setup now.

 On another note I forgot to take pics but I also installed the newer/upgraded/stronger Zuk t-case front output shaft I got from www.lowrangeoffroad.com it has more gear contact and helps from having the 4WD pop out of gear and eventually wreaking the gear all together.

 I also have to get some rubber hose to finish my vent lines, Note the vent line for the Kick doubler box I used the hole where the unused detent sping and ball would go by threading in an elbow with a barbed fitting then tee'd it in with the Zuk t-case line and SideKick tranny shifter vent line all going up into the engine bay.
 


 This rig is not yet finished or running at this date so this setup will not be tested right a way but I will post up on the out come when it does I hope it all works as well as it looks!
 
 I know most people do not have a fab shop buddy who can cut them nice quailty looking pieces but this just made it all look more professionally done and saved me alot of cutting/fabbing work,
 Kevin "Skyhiranger" has proven it can be built with some basic garage tools and some mechanical ability and I was on my way with this exact process until my buddy offered up his fab shop help so of course a person would use the resources available to them ;)
 Just so those who want to try it here is a couple shots of what I started to make with basic garage tools - grinder, torch and a welder before I recieved the drawings from Klause and had my buddy laser them out

Zuk t-case mounting flange



  I hope all this tech can help someone else as I have been helped by all the others builds and tech! thanks to all of ya and glad to give back and help out where I can! feel free to ask questions as I have alot more pics I just posted up the main ones for starters.   Weed


« Last Edit: Thursday, September 20, 2012, 07:11:38 AM by beekiller »
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Offline Bama Zuk

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Nice write up!
Very nice build!

Great job  ;)
  

Offline BLKZUKI

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ummm dude that is very cool. and very nice write up ;D

Offline kasematukl

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 8) great write up  8)

Klaus  ;D
'95 Tintop, 1.6 tbi, homemade kick/sami doubler with calmini 5.14 t-case gears, Spoa, RUF/CJ5 springs on ML, Kick power steering, ARB front & rear, Milemarker PE6000 winch, 2" bodylift, 31x10.5

Offline FGZ

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Very nice man.  I hear OTT caught up w/ kick doubler orders over New Years, just FYI for anyone looking to throw them some business.

Offline weed

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Thanks guys!
8) great write up  8)

Klaus  ;D

There ya go Klaus, there's that German engineering in my Japanese made equipment I was telling ya about LOL! ;D  Weed
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Offline Tinbeater

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Looks good Steve & Martha. ;D I hope it holds up ok for you.

Offline weed

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Looks good Steve & Martha. ;D I hope it holds up ok for you.
Thanks Greg, yeah I'm hoping the same! ::)   Weed
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Offline slowmotion4x4

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Wow, very nice job. This answered some of my questions I had as to what these looked like in side the tracker case. I notice your tracker shifter is way  different than mine. You did an awesome job on your tunnel. I hope you don't mind if I borrow a couple ideas from it. I still have to do mine but from the fire wall back. Very nice job Steve.

Offline weed

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Wow, very nice job. This answered some of my questions I had as to what these looked like in side the tracker case. I notice your tracker shifter is way  different than mine. You did an awesome job on your tunnel. I hope you don't mind if I borrow a couple ideas from it. I still have to do mine but from the fire wall back. Very nice job Steve.

No problem Brian and thanks for the pm's/info also, use whatever you can, thats why I posted all that I could ;)  Weed
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Offline Surly

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Without a doubt, this is one of the best writeups I've ever seen. Very nice work too! Congrats and thanks for posting. [thumbsup]

Let me make a suggestion though...

I also have to get some rubber hose to finish my vent lines, Note the vent line for the Kick doubler box I used the hole where the unused detent sping and ball would go by threading in an elbow with a barbed fitting then tee'd it in with the Zuk t-case line and SideKick tranny shifter vent line all going up into the engine bay.
 

I'd run a separate breather line for everything that needs to be vented instead of teeing everything into one line. When your rig is nearly vertical and the lines are teed, it's possible for gear oil to flow from one chamber into another.  Separate breather lines would eliminate this possibility. ;)
« Last Edit: Monday, March 24, 2008, 11:32:22 AM by Surly »
I must admit I didn't want to hear what Surly had to say!

Offline weed

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Hmmm? that's a good point Ken!
I do tend to get vertical some times ;D thanks much I will do that ;)  Weed
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Offline slowmotion4x4

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Ken is good at thinking things through I have found. Un like me some times.  ::)  But I try  I can't wait till you get to try this out. Did you say you were going to run the 6.5s in the zook case? That is my plan now  ;D  A range for every thing

Offline bell

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GREAT writeup! Nice job!  8)
I'll always be fishin' with Kenny, in my mind...
how big are the cans?

Offline weed

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Ken is good at thinking things through I have found. Un like me some times.  ::)  But I try  I can't wait till you get to try this out. Did you say you were going to run the 6.5s in the zook case? That is my plan now  ;D  A range for every thing

 Yeah, his insight caught my attention on the Spider in another post where he noticed my brake line mounted to a moving part ;) duh! brain fart on my part! it has since been changed, thanks again Ken ;)  Weed

 I have the 4.89's in the Zuk case 5.29's in my Toy axles and running 37" Boggers (actual 35 1/2") so will see what it's like. I'm definitely ready to try this stuff out! 

 One other thing I forgot to mention is,
  I also had to cut my Zuk T-case shifter in three different places and welded it all back together solid to get the clearance/bends I needed around the Kick shifter to have the two clear each other in there seperate range's of movement, this was a cut tack weld size it up, cut again reposition tack weld size it up etc.etc. until I finally got the clearance's I needed then finally welded the Zuk t-case shifter solid ;)  Weed
« Last Edit: Tuesday, March 25, 2008, 02:49:23 PM by weed »
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Offline weed

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 Couple updates on my Kick box,
 I made some go through Zuk t-case mounts out of some 3/8" poly strut bushings and 3/8" bolts and some hockey pucks I cut down into square blocks on my chop saw, I also dimpled some washers in my press so as to cup and capture the poly grommets when all bolted together.


front pass side

rear pass side

 I also made a 1/4" steel driveshaft hoop I bent up in my press  using a couple existing threaded holes and bolts in the Kick case as I was concerned if the front shaft ujoint should every blow it would make a violent impression on my fragile aluminum Kick case. On the t-case long arm side I welded a 1/4" steel tab and bolted that end of hoop with a 3/8" bolt and nut.


Looking up the front driveshaft.

« Last Edit: Sunday, April 06, 2008, 01:17:19 AM by weed »
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Offline hottrodd64

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looking good, so using the 1/4 inch steel plate, could you still use the stock t-case mounting brackets?/ does the t-case stay in the stock location?

Offline MaineZuke

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the t-case and tranny are bolted together - so bolting that shield from the tranny to the long arm has no problems.

Offline weed

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looking good, so using the 1/4 inch steel plate, could you still use the stock t-case mounting brackets?/ does the t-case stay in the stock location?
Yep, the Zuk t-case lands right back in the original Zuk t-case mounts after now having everthing setup as a "married unit" as opposed to it's original/stock "divorced" configuration.
the t-case and tranny are bolted together - so bolting that shield from the tranny to the long arm has no problems.

Yep ;) you are correct sir.   Weed
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