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Author Topic: non suzuki swap  (Read 24634 times)
91Hardtop
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Loc: Albuquerque, NM
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I love my diesel tintop!


« Reply #90 on: Saturday, March 10, 2007, 09:20:39 PM »

Hey Jim! Glad to see you hanging in there. How are your projects coming along? I think I am getting burnt out, I started these hobbies to relieve stress, not add to them. I think once this is "done" I need to sit back and reevaluate everything.

OK, dropped the pan and checked the bearings. Main bearings are fine. The only thing I found is an indication that the #2 rod bearing spun. The bearing is still in new looking condition but the little tab that sits in that slot is flattened. I am happy I found something but the bearing is still "good" so would losing oil pressure to that bearing cause that noise before the bearing got wiped out? I have to get some new bearings before I can reassemble the bottom end and try it out, its going to drive me nuts in the meantime. Next I guess is popping off the head, dont really want to go there...

Man, that is the worst feeling ever huh. I had that happen to me too. I wish you the best of luck.
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zooky
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« Reply #91 on: Saturday, March 17, 2007, 05:48:50 PM »

91Hardtop, it was a horrible feeling :-[
 I got it all back together, its about 80% better. I only ran it in the garage, it might get 20% better once I get it outside where the sound is not bouncing off the walls. It sounds 'dieslier' now than before, I thought I read that if the timing was off it would sound that way? I havent brought it up to temp yet, its blowing a little white smoke. I havent made any adjustments yet either, not quite sure where to begin. I am going to play with it more tomorrow if I dont have to work...
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zooky
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« Reply #92 on: Sunday, March 18, 2007, 07:01:12 PM »

OK, played around today. Thing has -zero- power. Revs OK but when I put it in 'drive' and hold the brake (not even all that hard) I can floor it and it doesn't even try to go, the RPM's will not go above about 1500RPM.
 I checked timing. I am not using the VW transmission, I made alignment marks on all 3 pulleys. On the crank alternator pulley and plastic cover I made some "rough" marks, they should line up fine with the marks I made underneath on the timing belt pulley but I have to gain more access to get to my official marks. From the looks of things, the IP and cam marks still match and it looks like the crank is off a tooth or two. I wont know until I gain more access.
Could the crank be off a tooth or two? The belt covers 80% of the pulley so it seems unlikely it could jump. It would also seem odd that the cam and IP would both jump a tooth. Either way, I would expect it would run rough(er). I'll know more when I get more access in a day or two, any thoughts in the mean time?
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redidbull
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Loc: Southern Connecticut
Joined Dec 2002



« Reply #93 on: Sunday, March 18, 2007, 07:51:22 PM »

Randy, While it is running can you spin the dist to see if there is any change in how many rpms you can get? May need someone in the rig on the pedal while you do it. Jim
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zooky
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« Reply #94 on: Tuesday, March 20, 2007, 12:15:26 PM »

Jim, do you mean fuel distributor (injection pump)? No, I didnt.

ok, here are my valve lash results:

limits : .006 - .010
I1 - .007
I2 - .007
I3 - .004
I4 - .005

limits: .014 - .018
E1 - .013
E2 - .015
E3 - .016
E4 - .014

3 out of 8 are a tad too tight. I wouldnt think enough to cause this problem. The results also lean towards no bent valves as a bent valve would not close all the way leaving a bigger gap. I still need to get my hands on a gage to check the cylinder pressure. I may also have access to a borescope to take a peek inside.
The pump was just rebuilt by Giles, is there anything in the pump that could have got crunched? From the research I did it has the symptoms if bad injectors or IP timing, the injectors are overhauled GTD's
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redidbull
Dope
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Loc: Southern Connecticut
Joined Dec 2002



« Reply #95 on: Tuesday, March 20, 2007, 12:33:15 PM »

Jim, do you mean fuel distributor (injection pump)? No, I didnt.



Randy, No I was thinking distributor as in timing. Does a diesel even have one? I have in the past had cars that wouldn't stay running due to timing and had someone sit in the car with their foot on the gas as you turn the dist. That got it running ballpark so you could adjust the idle and timing. Jim
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zooky
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« Reply #96 on: Tuesday, March 20, 2007, 01:23:57 PM »

I was throwing you a rope buddy, diesels dont have an ignition system
 ;D
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redidbull
Dope
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Loc: Southern Connecticut
Joined Dec 2002



« Reply #97 on: Tuesday, March 20, 2007, 02:54:30 PM »

I was throwing you a rope buddy, diesels dont have an ignition system
 ;D

I missed the rope. I don't know anything about diesels. Just throwing out ideas. What determines timing? Jim
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vwzzuk
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Loc: Pleasant Valley, OR
Joined Jan 2004



« Reply #98 on: Thursday, March 22, 2007, 01:41:16 AM »

I'd double check your mechanical timing to make sure its bang on. Its easy to time the pump and cam up top and be off on your crank pully because you can't see it under the cover. You have to keep it tight when you take your cam or injection pump sprockets off. Sometimes  it can jump during that timing process and you not know it.

If your mechanical is perfect, then you might want to check your injection pump timing with a dial indicator. If it's at .95-1.0 mm you should be OK.

If its not either of those two timing issues, then you may have a bad injector. You can crack your injectors one at a time and see if it makes any difference. The one that doesn't make a difference is the bad injector.

If that isn't it, then I'd say your injection pump has an issue.

Do you have any exhaust bubbles in your coolant? If you have a rad that has a cap on it, if your coolant gushes out of the little hole below the cap in the internal wall, then your head gasket is probably not sealing right. If you replaced the head recently, then you need to retorque it after warm up to the point your fans come on.

Hope that helps, eh.
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zooky
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« Reply #99 on: Friday, March 30, 2007, 06:56:00 PM »

here are the compression test results, pretty good considering the rings are not broken in yet:

#1 - 440psi
#2 - 440psi
#3 - 420psi
#4 - 440psi

Also, I discovered the #3 heat shield was upside down (oops) and there is minor carbon build up on that injector.
This pretty much rules out head and head gasket issues.
Any suggestions?
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zooky
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« Reply #100 on: Monday, April 09, 2007, 06:39:41 PM »

havent done much, stuff came up. I was putting the injectors back in and I eye-balled them and one of the tips looked blacker and didnt seem to protrude from the nozzle as much as the others. I removed the nozzle from the injector and the needle was seized in the nozzle. I had to use a large vice and biggest set of vice grips to get the needle out, I actually thought I was going to break something. That aint right. I havent checked the others yet. These are new GTD nozzles so I wasnt expecting any issues with the injectors. Looks like it is stuck open, bet that dosent happen often due to that heavy spring in there pushing it closed
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redidbull
Dope
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« Reply #101 on: Monday, April 09, 2007, 06:43:26 PM »

Hopefully you will get it all straightened out. BTW I was hinking of doing a Zookin type un maybe in August. You in? Jim
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zooky
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« Reply #102 on: Monday, April 09, 2007, 06:49:01 PM »

Hopefully you will get it all straightened out. BTW I was hinking of doing a Zookin type un maybe in August. You in? Jim
I'll plan on it one way or another.
This injector is the first real, related problem I found
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lacrosse10604
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Loc: Denver, CO
Joined Nov 2005



« Reply #103 on: Tuesday, May 01, 2007, 09:05:05 PM »

Zooky, do you have your older lost pics posted somewhere else. I'm looking at a similar project down the road..... way down the road.
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1993 'kick, 4dr, VW 1.9L TD, 3" Body Lift, 31's, crown vic's & strut mount flip.... FOR SALE
zooky
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Loc: New Hampshire
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« Reply #104 on: Tuesday, May 01, 2007, 09:12:41 PM »

I have to look around the house, most of the pics were taken with an older digital camera that used floppies. I didnt save them on my computer, I figured they were safe on the ORC BBS
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