non suzuki swap

[zooky]

I'd love to hear some comparisons between a triggered tach light and the dial indicator settings.

Yea... I dont know what you just said
If you are refering to the tachometer adapter, I have no idea what it does. I'll figure it out when I get it. Unless you know?

[deepmud]

yeah - the standard method of timing the VW and a lot of diesels is static - you use the dial indiator and set it up to spec. Some diesels and all spark motors get timed with a "live" signal - and if you have an adapter to set up a timing light, you can get a live trigger and compare it to marks (that you would have to make) on your flywheel or crank pulley. I don't have any comparisons from "static" to "live" - it would be great to know that "1.0mm" advance translated to "x-degrees of timing advance" as measured with a timing light, so that I could get an adapter and compare . It's also great if you are playing with advance and are cranking it back and forth for best economy/power - so you'd benifit if you had that info as well.

[AcmeAdapters]

Just a thought..........   If you did not have a adapter for the timing light, no reason you couldnt install a gasser flywheel on the bench from original application, set it a 5, 10 degrees or whatever and recheck the pump with the dial, that should tell you how many mm is equal for the degree advance.

[zooky]

got those timing tools today, having the correct tools really makes the job easy. They are the actual VW part number tools called for in the manual, good quality. The timing belt tension tool came in handy, I originally did the 90* twist method and wasnt tight enough. I'm all timed now and can continue with the cooling/intercooler systems.
How easy/hard is the engine to turn over with a ratchet on the crank when the injectors and everything are in?

[zooky]

here is a quick pic, I started mocking up the radiator and intercooler. I have them positioned where I want them, the mounts will be easy to make. They (along with the cooling fan) are all from a volvo and fit together well. I grabbed the mounts too and they should be easy to adapt. I think I figured out the intercooler plumping, I already have the pre-intercooler (in a previous pic) set up and think I am going to go with the post-intercooler plumbing below. I just need to be sure they work together.

[zooky]

got some more done. Installed the starter, fit like a glove. I wanted to engage it to make sure the alignment is correct. I'm not worried about it too much, but if I have to pull the engine to correct something I want to do it before I put the fluids in. Didnt get around to it this weekend. I decided to cake care of the driveshaft. I've been avoiding it because it was going to be a pain. I moved the transmission forward 2" and up 1" so I had to lengthen the driveshaft 2.5". Shortening is a little easier. Going through my junk I found a junk toyota driveshaft I kept for some reason, the U-joint and flange were busted off. I was able to transfer the U-joint and slip yoke over to it. Now it was long enough to shorten .  I have a big pipe cutter that I got a few years ago for rotating knuckles but I couldnt get the blage close enough to the weld. I was glad I was able finally able to put it to good use, it cut the driveshaft nice and square. I cut the support bearing (its a 2 piece driveshaft) off the original shaft and pressed it into the new longer one, it had a 1/2" flange that slid into the shaft tube. Luckly both shafts were compatable.



Here is the finished shaft. Above it in the picture is my modified shift linkage. Not much to see. I have a column shift so I had to shorten it to work with the repositioned transmission, I have to tweak it some more, it uses a bellcrank with two rods and the angles are a little off from moving the transmission. A floor shifter would have been easier.

[zooky]

today I dropped my fuel tank, I wanted to get out all the gas and clean the gunk out. I also wanted to check the condition of the tank, level sender and pick up screen. Everything looked good. I am thinking of removing the screen, VW recommended that they be removed from their fuel tanks. I forget the reason but it sounded like a good idea at the time. I might try to find something that is not as fine to prevent the pick up tube from clogging. Knocking the unleaded restricter from the filler was a PITA, square peg round hole. Are the sami ones spot welded in? I am going to replace all the rubber fuel lines, and clean up and undercoat everything while the tank is out. Time to start working on the exhaust...

[Hogchazer]

Hey Zooky, did I understand you to say you had a way around using the computer for the 4 speed automatic transmission?

[zooky]

Hey Zooky, did I understand you to say you had a way around using the computer for the 4 speed automatic transmission?

yes, I am working on it in conjunction with another project. Dont want to say too much more, still have some issues to look into. I dont want to spread any incorrect info...

[Hogchazer]

Ok thanks, let us know when you get it worked out. I want to get rid of my five speed and go to an auto without a bunch of modifications. If I can't, I'll be selling my Samurai and building something else.

[zooky]

I run the 3-speed in my sami now, I could REALLY use an extra gear. My plan is to use a 4-speed (non-computered) and to replace the sami case to get rid of the high range reduction. I can then regear the axles for the 35's. I think the 16v will be happier that way.

[Zippy]

That swap is coming along really good.  On the filler neck on my Zuk I just took a round piece of aluminum stock that was about the correct size for the smaller diesel nozzle and used it with a hammer to enlarge the unleaded hole a little.  I am now thinking about just trying to remove the guts of the filler neck all together.

Kevin

[zooky]

your idea was smarter . My filler opening is huge now, in hindsight I am thinking that the fuel nozzle wont hold itself in position without me holding it and when the tank gets full diesel will splash out before the auto-shutoff kicks off

[deepmud]

Huge is better - sometimes you need diesel at a truck stop. Also works for gas cans. I never had trouble with the auto-shut off. I did tear a teeny hole in the neck in my most recent gas tank (new back end/new tank) but soldered it over.

[zooky]

completly OT:
the wife sent me to the store to get more Christmas lights. I decided to look for a timer so she wouldnt kill herself (hmmmm?...) plugging them every night, she has to cross my messy garage to get to the outlet. Along with the timers there was this slick unit (made by GE) that plugs into the outlet that the lights then plug into. There is a little keychain transmitter remote (like come with remote starters) that you can use up in the house. This thing is going to serve double duty to remotely turn on my block heater from the comfort of my living room. No messing with a timer or killing myself (huh?...) going to plug it in from a cold garage.
I think it was like $15, after christmas it will only be like $10.