non suzuki swap

[zooky]

you can see the brackets going to the body in the photo. They are about 1" wide, there are 2 like it underneath. For the lower ones I had to bolt a flat bar (even used existing bolt holes on the frame) from one frame rail to the other for them to rest on. Not sure how it would fit in a sami, I have more room to work with

[zooky]

ok, wiring is finally done, glad thats behind me. Now its time to do some plumbing. I think I will start with the fuel system. I already removed and cleaned up the tank. Some of the hard lines on the frame have seen better days, I would like to use them but if they are in bad shape I will just bypass them with rubber fuel hose. I have read that some guys use an electric boost pump to take the load off the IP. Makes sense but its just something else that could go wrong. Gonna have to look into that more.
 I also need to get the radiator hoses, upper should be easy. The lower one is on the passenger side and is going to require a crossover pipe to get it to the other side. I hope to accomplish this with some copper pipe. Home Depot here I come...

[Zippy]

I ended up using an electric pump in my setup.  I have a 1/2 gallon tank under the hood that is filled by an electric pump back by the main tank.  Once the small tank is full it overflows to the rear.  The IP pulls from that small tank and returns to it.  I set up this way mainly for offroad use so that if my main tank gets low on fuel I will not starve the IP.

Kevin

[zooky]

Hmmm, another thing to think about...

[Spulen81]

I run an electric pump on mine also.  I have a big fuel filter and the fuel would have to be pulled up quite a bit by the IP so I figured it would be a good thing to do.  The downside is that if the electric pump dies so does the engine.   I proved this theory a couple weeks ago at a stop sign when the wire came loose in the relay .   Priming the system is super easy with the electric pump in there.

My lines were really nasty so I replaced them with braided stainless mainly because I have alot of spare fittings from old projects.

[zooky]

I may skip a boost pump for now, my IP is freshly rebuilt so I am sure it can handle the job. If I do add one I will run a bypass around the pump so it can run without it.
 I made the lower radiator crossover today. Its simple and will work fine. Nothing exciting but here is a pic since I haven't added one in awhile. The left side in the pic connects to the passenger side radiator outlet via that rubber radiator hose then it crosses over just under the radiator and places the outlet on the drivers side where it belongs. It will be secured to the radiator support using those 2 clamps. I am going to paint it with a high temp black paint. What I would do if I was smart was add a 'T' in the middle of the crossover and use the extra leg to mount an aftermarket water temp gauge...

[zooky]

for the 2 or 3 of you still following this thread (hi mom and dad! ), it kept me busy this weekend although it feels like I didnt get much done. The fuel system is plumbed, I'm happy with it. I think I remember having an electric pump around somewhere from my carb days, if I can find it I think I will install it. I also have most of my cooling and intercooler figured out, just need to gather parts. I temp installed my air cleaner assembly, I am going to vent my crankcase into it. I will try to seperate the oil from it before entering the air cleaner. You guys seeing much blow-by?
 I still need to tackle the exhaust. I think I can squeeze in 2.5" pipe, 2.25" would be easier. 2" would be simple. Whats everyone using?
 I think this will be the last post until its almost ready to fire off. There wont be anything interesting until then. Stay tuned...

[redidbull]

for the 2 or 3 of you still following this thread ........

I am still here !!!! Jim

[zooky]

good ol' Jim!
you are #3 

[Zippy]

 

[zooky]

OK, started the exhaust. I hate this part of any build, I couldn't avoid it any longer. This wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. The downpipe was a bit tricky but with some tight radius Hooker mandrel bent J-tubing and a few strategically placed kinks I was able to snake some 2.25 piping down and under the transmission to the 'stock' location without coming critically close to anything. Infact, I could probally could have gotten away with 2.5, oh well.





After doing some research I decided hedder wrap would be a good idea. The downpipe looks close to some of the components in the pics but its not that bad. I will probally add a heat shield near the fuel filter and where it goes under the transmission. I decided on a Dynomax flow through muffler. It looks like a standard muffler but is built like a glass pack. I got about $150 in my exhaust from turbo to tail pipe. Not a bad deal considering I used 16ga mandrel bent tubing, a quality muffler and hedder wrap with the sealer (actually hi temp paint). I would recommend the mandrel bent over the Auto Zone specials, big quality differences. A $15 mandrel bent J-pipe can be cut in half giving you 2 90* bends.
Here is a pic of the 2 different pipes, same dimentions.



well I'm here, here is a pic of how my intercooler plumbing and air filter box turned out. I am pretty happy with how it came out considering its all junkyard parts.

[samerrant]

I temp installed my air cleaner assembly, I am going to vent my crankcase into it. I will try to seperate the oil from it before entering the air cleaner. You guys seeing much blow-by?

Hey, just ran through your thread, it's been a while since I  looked, and it's looking good. Nice clean install.
Anyway, my vent is plumbed into my intake, immediately pre-turbo. I get enough blowby that the tube to the intake gets a little oily and leaks slightly (not a perfect seal)

This time around, I'm going to vent it to a catch can, rather than the intake. My vw engine builder says that it's a better way to do it, and I'm inclined to take his word for it. If you run it to a can filled with steel wool or similar, it slows the air down enough for the oil vapor to condense and pool, and you can drain it as needed...or technically just run it to the atmosphere if you'd prefer, but it'll drip every time you park the truck.

Looking forward to hearing the test run impressions!

[zooky]

how much blow by do you get? I was going to run a hose from the the cap on the valve cover down to an oil-air seperator that I plan to mount down below the air filter housing, then run a line up to an existing hole on the air filter housing to get the vapor. I am just concerned how often the seperator will have to be drained. I have Total Seal rings and that plastic splash shield thingy so I am hoping it is minimal.

[samerrant]

I don't really have a sure way to measure the amount of blow by. All I can tell you is that I get enough that in about 3k miles, the inside of my tube from the vent to the intake was well oiled, and that there was a decent coating inside my intake pipe to the turbo.

With the air/oil seperator, you should be good to go. Do you have a link to where you got it?

Sorry I can't tell you how often you'll need to drain it, I only have plans to run mine this way, but haven't tried it yet...I guess it'll depend on the size of your tank. Can you run a bigger one on the seperator if need be? As long as it lasts until the next oil change before draining, you should be good to go, right?

[zooky]

 I think I will go with something bigger like a pickle jar to collect any blow-by. I have a good spot to mount something that will be inconspicuous. Got a bunch of little things done this weekend, nothing picture worthy, just grunt work.
 One thing I need to figure out is what I will need for diff gearing. Izook is down so I cant do the math now. The tires are like 25" (tiny), the axle has 3.73 gears and the OD on the automatic is .688.
 What cruising RPM am I shooting for?
I have a 4wd axle with 4.10 and a 4.88 third on the shelf and a Dana44 with 4.56 and a limited slip from an Isuzu Rodeo. Both axles have the same 6 lug pattern and close in width. I don't care about brand loyalty so its going to depend which ratio works best. The D44 has the limited slip and disc brakes (w/built in parking brake), nice features. Either way I would convert the front to 6 lug to match. I will probally step up a few tire sizes, nothing too big this is a commuter, the 14" wheels and 25" tires look like poo.
 I'll worry about that later, I want to get it running first.