non suzuki swap

[zooky]

My swap is not Suzuki based but is simular. My sami is beyond streetable and I did not want to install this engine in something I could not drive. I needed to find something to drop it into. I narrowed it down to a Tracker or a Toyota. A Tracker would have been nice for the 4wd in the winter but a truck would be more handy and the 4x4 Toyota is kinda heavy. I ran accross a 1986 2wd Toyota longbed locally for under a grand. 2wd toyotas are hard to find up here and this was in good shape for a truck that spent 20 years in New England. The 22R only has 112000 miles and ran like a top. This would make a good conversion.
I originally wanted an automatic since this was going to be a commuter in alot of stop and go traffic. After thinking about it I decided a 5-speed would make better use out of the diesels power. Well, that toyota came with the auto.
Over a year ago I picked up a 1.6TD I ran accross for $250 and I have been tinkering with it. I rebuilt it, stock except Total Seal piston rings. I ported the head a little but not enough to consider it not stock. I rebuilt the turbo. I had Giles overhaul and modify the pump and rebuilt and balanced the injectors with GTD nozzles. I will be installing a Volvo intercoller and boosting the pressure. I setup the intake for ram air through the bumper, but might reconsider, I am worried about sucking in rain and water. I am using ACMEs toyota-automatic adapter, which went together well, and made my own motor mounts.  I yanked the 22R and finally got the TD bolted in and the engine lift removed today. That was a milestone for me. I took some pics along the way but cant open the folder for some reason. I just took this pic, hopefully I can get the others

[vwzzuk]

Hey way to go! Looking forward to seeing the pics. You can post a pic directly in the email when you select "additional options" and make sure your file size is small enough.

[zooky]

oh yea, I forgot about that way. My home computer has issues, it locked up when I sent that post, I was worried that it did not get sent. I am hoping the engine has enough power for highway cruising. The 2wd is 2600lbs and I'll be running tires close to stock size, around 26" so I think it will be OK. I tried to keep it stock Toyota/Volkswagen parts as much as possible, or at least common junkyard parts, for simplicity. I was able to use the stock alternator and the vertical oil filter mount and oil cooler, and the VW power steering pump and brackets should clear everything. In order to get clearance at the firewall I had to move the transmission forward 2 inches, I have alot more room to work with then you guys so I still have plenty of room for the intercooler, radiator, aux trans cooler and electric fan, all of which are from a Volvo.

I had oil pan clearance issues, the center link runs pretty high. There were a few ways around this. First thought was to SAS the front end, thats another can of worms and defeats the purpose of why I chose the 2wd in the first place. It took alot of self control to get past that! That may be Phase II depending on performance. Another option was to mount the engine higher. That didn't look right but would be quick and easy. Might as well do it right. I notched about 2 inches off the bottom of the front half of the oil pan. In order to get back the lost volume I deepened the sump in the back so it holds the same amount of oil. That was a PITA and took alot of time. The initial assembly was pretty quick and actually looked real good, but you wouldn't believe how tough it was to get all the pinholes. When I was done it still looked good on the outside, lets just say the battery on my camera was dead before I could get any inside pics. It was worth the effort, it looks right now. I did do some research and it appears that the 2wd/manual steering center link dips down more and is a direct swap and should give an additional inch or two which might have been enough. I'll switch to one of those if the engine settles in its mounts too much. I am not sure if I will be able to route the exhaust in the traditional way, the shift linkage is in the way. I may have to go down then across. Another option would be to reposition the fuel tank to the drivers side then run the exhaust down then strait back.
Next, I am going to tackle the electrical. I cleaned up the engine compartment of all no longer needed clutter. All the old wiring will be removed. I relocated the battery to the drivers side to make room for the air cleaner assembly (a spiffy looking metal canister type from a Montero), but may move it to the back so I can use a bigger one and to reduce clutter under the hood. I am going to run as much wiring as I can together behind the fenders and in the corners. I was at the junk yard and scored a instrument cluster with a tach from an automatic 4Runner that was within 400 miles on the odometer of mine for $16. The bonus of it being from an automatic is that there are 2 LED that indicate the mode of the transmission. I am going to re-label the amber one 'glow plugs' and the green one 'cooling fan' (unless I can think of a better use, like installing a pressure switch in the intake and labeling the light 'boost' or 'turbo'). I am installing a boost and EGT gage in one of those pillar pod things, kinda 'ricey' but serves a purpose.

As far as gearing goes I have the opposite problem that you guys have due to the .688 overdrive. The diff has 3.73 gears and I need like 4.56 to get the gearing to the desired 2800 RPM cruise (is that correct?). I think I may have to switch to a 4x4 axle for that so I'll convert the truck to a 1 ton, I need new springs anyways. The only issue is that the 2wd has 5 lug bolt pattern. I think I found a 2wd spindle from a different truck that is 6 lug and should be a direct swap. I guess thats it for now. What can I use for fuel lines, the normal fuel line rubber hose?

[vwzzuk]

Lots of work! Sounds like a nice and clean install.

For fuel lines, you can use the standard fuel line or you can also make fuel lines out of steel brake lines. What ever you like. I've used both. The rubber won't last as long but works fine.

The VW's, in stock form, like to cruise at 24-25 hundred RPMs. In a Samurai, its about 3000 rpms at 60 mph at highway speeds with stock gearing and tranny. Your yota ought to be better but you may have to turn up the pump and boost to be happy.

[zooky]

here is the pic I tried to post yesterday.
I was at the junkyard today and found a rear axle thay may work perfect. Ita a Dana 44 from an Isuzu Rodeo. It looks to be the correct width, its already spring-under, it has the 4.56 gears I need and a limited slip, it has a flange on the pinion and has disc brakes with a built in parking brake. Best of all it was only $69 complete including the driveshaft. I think I'll go with rubber brake lines for now

[quietmission]

Just want to say that you are doing a wonderful job with this swap.  It looks very clean.  I am contemplating a swap myself as i acquired an 85 vw jetta turbo diesel and i also have geo tracker hardtop.  The only drawback is that my geo is auto and i strongly prefer the manual tranny for simplicity.
Again, i will be following your thread closely to see your progress.  I am from Boston.  Maybe, we can meet once you complete your project.  Keep up the good work.

[zooky]

thanks. The original owner sprayed some sort of waxy goo all over the under carrage and engine compartment to fight rust. It worked pretty good. After I yanked the 22r I wanted to clean the engine bay up a bit, it was nasty with 20 years of grime sticking to the goo. I found the stuff came off with a liquid called 'Goo Gone' the paint under the crud was perfect. I've seen some hideous engine compartments in some 20 year old trucks, I got lucky. The fenders have some rust but are cheap to replace and the bed has some bad bondo work done to it and appears to look worse then the rust probally did. Thats fine, I dont like the long bed 2wd's much, they look unproportionally long for the small tires and height of the truck. It gives me reason to make a new bed for it. The frame has some rust, no more than my wifes 2001 Grand Vitara, but no rot. A wire wheel and some fresh undercoating will fix that.
I am concerned about the autos performance as well, I have heard they are fine with a turbo because the turbo stays spooled up between shifts. I hope its fine, I commute 100 miles a day. I work at the airport in Bedford Ma and will be able to get some free sumped jet fuel (a form of diesel) so the swap should save me money.
 I like the 2 door hardtop geos, that was my other option.

[deepmud]

with a Giles pump you should be more than ok.

I had a 2.1 Jeep diesel once - it was 81hp and 129ftlbs, on a 4x4 Jeep Cherokee. Much more weight than a Yota. It did fine on highways, and only sorta' sucked with 5 people, camping gear, a trailer with two ATVs, two kayks on top and a steep, long hill. It carried all that crap fine up most hills, just the really bad, lines of Motorhomes on the right lane kind of hill knocked it down to about 40-45mph.

I did drive a Jeep Diesel automatic once - it felt kind of slow/doggy compared to my 5 speed, but an auto doesn't give you the feed back of the engine revving up so in retrospect it may not have been too bad, and I only took it around the block. The auto won't get the mpg so much, but with free fuel, who cares You could add a little free WVO to that thin jet stuff to thicken it and add lubricity too.

[zooky]

I am having computer issues, last time I tried to post replys with pics I lost everything. I type slow and am not retyping everything again... well OK, maybe later if  the pic works this time

[deepmud]

Hey nice job I need to tear off my pan and see with the pickup looks like now that the motor stands up. Maybe a homebuilt deep sump would be smart.

[zooky]

it was pretty strait forward but welding up the pinholes is enough to drive you nuts. Thank god for Zoloft! In hindsight, I should have sumped it more but I was just concerned with regaining the capacity I lost with the notch. Acme has a modified pan for the tracker-installer-into guys. I would recommend it to them over doing their own, its a real test of patience, especially with visions of warping it dancing through your head.
Oh yea, thanks for the reassurance before, about it being OK with the Giles pump. I dont expect it to be a speed demon, I just want to keep up with traffic on the highway easy enough. I think if I keep the weight down enough and stick with the puny 26" tires it will be fine

[zooky]

here is the drivers side motor mount. Its kind of an odd setup. I couldnt use the toyota frame mount, it had to be removed to make room for the alternator. I couldnt use the angled oil filter adapter like you guys use, the shift linkage was in the way. This kinda limited my mounting location as I also had to clear the lower radiator hose. I made the mount hang low to clear everything. I used a stock VW rubber mount, it was thinner then the toyota one so it fit better, plus I figured it was rated for the weight of the diesel

[zooky]

here is the passenger side, this was pretty strait forward. I used the stock toyota frame mount and rubber mount, its kinda far forward but was simple to do. I may redo this one in the future. There are no assessories mounted on this side of the block so it would be easy to add air conditioning, and this mount will be in the way.
 I had to move the transmission forward 2 inches and up 1 inch to give me room at the firewall for the water outlet and exhaust. I dont think I am going to route the exhaust that was, the shift linkage will probally be in the way. I didnt bother with a pic, the trans mount adapter is a simple plate of steel wot new holes drilled to move it forward, and some spacers to raise it.

[quietmission]

Nice progress.  I was hoping that more people would comment and offer suggestions but it seems that you are fine as it is.  It should be a very decent truck to get you around with the Giles pump from what i have read so far.  I intend on sending him (Giles) my pump also for upgrade once i have the time to part out my 85 jetta turbo diesel part car.  Also if you don't mind, did you rebuild the engine yourself or do you know a good shop that can do so reasonably.  I would be interested to know how much money it would take since i need mine rebuild as well.

[zooky]

I was kinda hoping for more feedback, I'm winging it here. I never seem to get much reaction at home either . The progress is pretty slow. I started months ago, I was waiting to get enough done to keep the post moving. It should go faster now that the engine is installed.
If the power is not there I could always go to a 1.9 or TDI (way) later. I rebuilt the engine my self, the labor gets kinda pricey so I do what I can to keep costs down. The engine was in pretty good shape. The main bearings had to have been replaced at some point, they were in backwards blocking the oil feed holes from the girdle. All the bearings were worn evenly down to the copper but the crankshaft surprisingly checked out good. The cylinders checked out good so I was spared the expense of new oversize pistons and a bore job so I splurged on some Total Seal Gapless rings. The rings that came out were worn so bad that the top of the rings had a lip that was razor sharp and cut my fingers up pretty good and the end gap could be measured with a ruler (really). I rebuilt the head, replaced the valve guides and half the valves. I left the valve guide clearance on the tight side in hopes of less blow-by but wish I hadent done that. I am sure it will be fine but I have to worry about something. I also did a mild port and polish and lapped the valves in until there was no sign of WD40 seeping out from the port.
As far as cost goes, I dont really know. I shopped around and got everything seperate over 2-3 months. Turbo pistons are the big money items, if you dont need them the rebuild cost is pretty reasonable. Somebody else could probally give you a real estimate. I dont know of any shops but do your homework, there are alot of places that use unskilled labor and you wont get what you pay for.