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| | |-+  I built a "kicker 3"/doubler/dual tcase setup
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Author Topic: I built a "kicker 3"/doubler/dual tcase setup  (Read 17365 times)
FullTilt
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« Reply #30 on: Wednesday, October 04, 2006, 03:13:14 PM »

OK cool, thanks for the info.  And again congrats on a job well done.
F_T
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FullTilt

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Passenger: Did you see him do that?
Driver: No, if I did we would have to try it too!
skyhiranger
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« Reply #31 on: Wednesday, October 04, 2006, 03:21:18 PM »

OK cool, thanks for the info.  And again congrats on a job well done.
F_T

No problem.
Thanks.
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kasematukl
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« Reply #32 on: Saturday, November 11, 2006, 05:07:20 PM »

 ;D ;D ;D congrats - great work - more detail pics???

your writeup gives me a step by step info... the filler pice for the kick t-case housing was easy to create due to your great pics ;D

how did you center the steel adapter on the sami t-case housing to ensure both shafts are aligned properly?

Klaus  :)
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'95 Tintop, 1.6 tbi, homemade kick/sami doubler with calmini 5.14 t-case gears, Spoa, RUF/CJ5 springs on ML, Kick power steering, ARB front & rear, Milemarker PE6000 winch, 2" bodylift, 31x10.5
skyhiranger
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« Reply #33 on: Monday, November 13, 2006, 09:50:10 AM »

how did you center the steel adapter on the sami t-case housing to ensure both shafts are aligned properly?

Klaus  :)

Kinda hard to explain...but I'll try.
The center steel tube doesn't have to be precisely centered....you just need to make sure the tracker tcase output shaft and the samurai tcase input shaft are aligned and the tcases are oriented properly so they sit in alignment and aren't cocked over to one side when everything is bolted in the vehicle. 
The way I did it....I made the 2 end pieces and cut the steel tube to the proper length....I bolted the 2 end pieces to each of the tcases...I stood the samurai tcase on its back end (with the rear output pointing straight down) and slipped the shaft coupler sleeve on the samurai shaft...the placed the big steel tube on the samurai coupler end (trying to center it around the samurai input shaft, just by eyeballing it)....I took the tracker tcase and slid the output shaft down into the shaft sleeve...I made sure the tcase were properly oriented (so they would sit straight, once they were bolted in)...I tack welded the steel tube to each of the end pieces....then took the tcase coupler assembly off and fully welded everything together.
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skyhiranger
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« Reply #34 on: Monday, November 27, 2006, 11:34:10 AM »

Skyhiranger, Very cool stuff! great writeup and detail w/pics, after the project wheel it hard and let us know how it all holds up.  Thanks  Weed

Update.......
I got a chance to take it out for some wheelin' this last weekend (timber trails with some steep hill climbs, mainly).  One word.....AWESOME.  It worked flawlessly.  Although I did find myself running in 2nd or 3rd a lot (I'm running stock tcase gears)....1st was just TOO slow.  It was nice having the "double low", when I needed it, though.
I am still considering running a 4:1 samurai tcase, for even more reduction (~140:1 crawl ratio...I'm at 77:1 now)....but haven't decided for sure on that yet.
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FullTilt
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« Reply #35 on: Monday, November 27, 2006, 12:09:59 PM »

Update.......
I got a chance to take it out for some wheelin' this last weekend (timber trails with some steep hill climbs, mainly).  One word.....AWESOME.  It worked flawlessly.  Although I did find myself running in 2nd or 3rd a lot (I'm running stock tcase gears)....1st was just TOO slow.  It was nice having the "double low", when I needed it, though.
I am still considering running a 4:1 samurai tcase, for even more reduction (~140:1 crawl ratio...I'm at 77:1 now)....but haven't decided for sure on that yet.

Good to hear it all worked out for you in the end.
F_T
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FullTilt

typical conversation in the jeep behind me...

Passenger: Did you see him do that?
Driver: No, if I did we would have to try it too!
Joe S.
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« Reply #36 on: Monday, November 27, 2006, 12:31:43 PM »

thats awesome! great work!
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Smuz
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« Reply #37 on: Monday, November 27, 2006, 06:48:50 PM »

This was a great write-up! My son is building one from your thread to mate to a Dana 20. It's been pretty easy so far due to your wonderful pics and descriptions.
Thank you.
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hargraves
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« Reply #38 on: Monday, November 27, 2006, 09:36:09 PM »

Update.......
I got a chance to take it out for some wheelin' this last weekend (timber trails with some steep hill climbs, mainly).  One word.....AWESOME.  It worked flawlessly.  Although I did find myself running in 2nd or 3rd a lot (I'm running stock tcase gears)....1st was just TOO slow.  It was nice having the "double low", when I needed it, though.
I am still considering running a 4:1 samurai tcase, for even more reduction (~140:1 crawl ratio...I'm at 77:1 now)....but haven't decided for sure on that yet.

am at 77:1 right now and in most cases i love it, but there are times i wished a had more wheel speed and others were it is not low enough.
so i am waiting on ott to ship my kicker3.
there has been times i have spun all the way into 5th. and others were i go back to high range, peg it to 6 grand and side step the clutch and the motor almost dies. I hope having two more ranges can change all that. i really think 2:1, 4:1, and 8:1. would be a lot more usefull
than just 2:1 and 4:1.
i think if you find a used 4:1 case and you want ever want to go back. If you can't get there with that the only thing you can do then it get more motor.
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skyhiranger
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« Reply #39 on: Monday, November 27, 2006, 10:13:41 PM »

This was a great write-up! My son is building one from your thread to mate to a Dana 20. It's been pretty easy so far due to your wonderful pics and descriptions.
Thank you.

Glad it helped you guys out.  Maybe we'll go wheeling sometime after he gets it done.


am at 77:1 right now and in most cases i love it, but there are times i wished a had more wheel speed and others were it is not low enough.
so i am waiting on ott to ship my kicker3.
there has been times i have spun all the way into 5th. and others were i go back to high range, peg it to 6 grand and side step the clutch and the motor almost dies. I hope having two more ranges can change all that. i really think 2:1, 4:1, and 8:1. would be a lot more usefull
than just 2:1 and 4:1.
i think if you find a used 4:1 case and you want ever want to go back. If you can't get there with that the only thing you can do then it get more motor.

One reason I am debating on swapping in a 4:1 samurai tcase is.....to run a ~2:1 low (which I do need sometimes), I would need to run the tracker tcase in low and the samurai tcase in high.  My concern with that is....that puts all the reduction ahead of the samurai tcase and I have heard of some people having issues with the shaft coupler sleeve splines stripping out, when using the tracker driveshaft slip yoke (like I am) for the coupling sleeve.
Unless I work a trade for a 4:1 samurai tcase, I'll probably just run my 2:1 and 4:1 ratios and try to "get by". ;D ....but it would be sweet to have the 2, 4, 8:1 options.

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Smuz
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« Reply #40 on: Tuesday, November 28, 2006, 10:26:04 AM »

Quote
Glad it helped you guys out.  Maybe we'll go wheeling sometime after he gets it done.
You can bet on it. BTW: This K3 is going into an '89 Kick 8v Auto with a D-44 SAS with a Dana 20 as the second Xfer case.

We hafta add an output bearing to the K3 since the D-20 has no input bearing. What we found, by rooting thru excess parts, is that either a 6206 or a 6306 bearing fits the output shaft. What's really interesting about this is: 1) The 6206 bearing will fit into an LJ10/20 rear axle flange in the wheel bearing recess. 2) a 6306 bearing fits into the wheel bearing recess of a Samurai rear axle housing. If a person has access to an old axle housing, this can give you a very easy and economical bearing carrier.

As far as a seal goes, a standard Kick front or rear output seal fits nicely into the other side of the LJ flange where the axle tube usta was. I don't have a Sammi rear flange off of the axle tube, so I dunno what seal you could use in there. Don't imagine it would be too hard to find one, tho.

Sumpin to think about if ya wanna. I love this stuff: garage innovative engineering at its finest.
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kasematukl
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« Reply #41 on: Tuesday, November 28, 2006, 04:20:15 PM »

Hi,

great idea to use an old rear axle housing for adapter building. The outer diameter of the sami rear axle wheel bearing (6207) is the same like the 6306... 72mm.

There are three 6306 bearings in the leftover parts box from the cut front output section of the kick t-case. Two supporting the front output shaft and one on the main shaft behind the chain.

...like the owners manual says - use only genuine Suzuki parts  ;D
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'95 Tintop, 1.6 tbi, homemade kick/sami doubler with calmini 5.14 t-case gears, Spoa, RUF/CJ5 springs on ML, Kick power steering, ARB front & rear, Milemarker PE6000 winch, 2" bodylift, 31x10.5
zuk1972
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« Reply #42 on: Monday, March 05, 2007, 02:32:59 PM »

Finally got mine going the shifters a lil iffy itll be a improve as i go....These pics arent the greatest,i need to get the boots in..I did this at the same time as a 16valve swap.And right after a yj spring swap..been long process since sept..Notice the flange in the middle of the coupler-this makes for easy removal seperation...


* today003.jpg (88.12 KB, 640x480 - viewed 509 times.)

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* today005.jpg (69.07 KB, 640x480 - viewed 351 times.)
« Last Edit: Monday, March 05, 2007, 02:34:13 PM by zuk1972 » Logged

Yup im still doing harnesses on the cheap.P>M> me
zuk1972
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« Reply #43 on: Sunday, March 18, 2007, 06:12:22 PM »

I got to trail test it yesterday,HOLY COW!
I have the 4:16s in the sammy case allready,most of my wheelin was with the sammy case in low,but in double low i can get out and watch my sammy climb up and down stuff....
Its plain crazy to have 1:4,2:20. 4:16,8:1
 the * 8:1 will be very interesting when i get dry conditions cant wait!
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skyhiranger
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« Reply #44 on: Saturday, June 23, 2007, 01:40:57 PM »

UPDATE:
Everything mechanical wise is still working great.

BUT....if anyone is using the early Jeep CJ (Willys) boot to seal the shifter hole up.....KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON IT.....in the 9 months that I have been running mine, I just noticed that the boot is almost completely destroyed....it is cracked, split, and shredded.  It looks like it is just dry rotted and brittle (it was brand new when I originally installed it)...I don't know if the gear oil ate it up, or if it gets too hot in that location, or what ???.
I noticed it when I was underneath measuring up some stuff.  The bad thing is, I just got through 4 wheeling in a bunch of deep water a couple of weeks ago.....so you know what was in the tcase.....yep, water, and lots of it.  I drained the water/oil out of the tcase, filled and flushed the tcase with diesel to remove all the remaining water/dirt/crap (it took 3 times of filling, running, and draining, to get the diesel to come out clean).
I am just going to install another early CJ boot (since I have an extra), and look for a suitable replacement, in the meantime.
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