I built a "kicker 3"/doubler/dual tcase setup

[skyhiranger]

i dont know much about trackers. i guess they dont have a divorced tcase?

Nope.  The trackick tcase is mounted right onto the back of the transmission.

[naracermcb]

know of anyone that makes the backing plate for the kick output? machine shops here are outragious because i live in a oilfield market that can pay for that stuff. the supply company i work for we got some 1inch by 2 inch pins made for a rig and 8 of them cost us 400 bucks. so a machine shop is out of the question. but i know plenty that can weld aluminum. and how much longer is a 4spd auto than the 3spd?

[skyhiranger]

know of anyone that makes the backing plate for the kick output? machine shops here are outragious because i live in a oilfield market that can pay for that stuff. the supply company i work for we got some 1inch by 2 inch pins made for a rig and 8 of them cost us 400 bucks. so a machine shop is out of the question. but i know plenty that can weld aluminum. and how much longer is a 4spd auto than the 3spd?

What do you mean by backing plate?  The plate to plate off the back of the trackick tcase?  If so, that is really about the easiest part of the whole build.  It is just a piece of flat either aluminum or steel plate (I have used both).  If you are talking about sealing up the side of the tcase, where the front output is cut off, then that one is a little trickier to fab.
The 4 speed is either 3 or 4 inches longer than the 3 speed.

[naracermcb]

didnt realize a 4spd was that much longer. but about the back yes the aluminum or steel piece. i would think to use aluminum on the because the rest of the case is aulminum as well. It holds the rear bearing to right? if it was to be steel then i could weld a thick sleeve to hold the bearing in. and i read on here that someones kicker 3 chewed the splines of the couple piece to join the 2 tcases? would a slip yoke from a tracker work for this? id just assume get the ujoin cut off of it and use that to join the 2 tcases?

[skyhiranger]

didnt realize a 4spd was that much longer. but about the back yes the aluminum or steel piece. i would think to use aluminum on the because the rest of the case is aulminum as well. It holds the rear bearing to right? if it was to be steel then i could weld a thick sleeve to hold the bearing in. and i read on here that someones kicker 3 chewed the splines of the couple piece to join the 2 tcases? would a slip yoke from a tracker work for this? id just assume get the ujoin cut off of it and use that to join the 2 tcases?

Some people put a rear bearing in that plate.  I did not, and have had no issues with not doing so.  I figure the shaft is supported by it being joined to the samurai tcase input shaft via the sleeve, and didn't need supported.  I did put a seal in it though.  For both the aluminum plate and the steel plate ones I have made, I just made a ring with an inside diameter about the same size as the outside diameter of the seal and either bolted (for the aluminum one) or welded (for the steel one) the ring to the plate.
Yes, there has been some people that have had the splines strip out on the sleeve that joins the 2 shafts.  They, as well as I, have all used a slip yoke off a trackick driveshaft to make the sleeve.  I have not had any issues with mine.
I know this thread is several pages long, but I have covered most of this in the thread already.  And have pics of most everything I have talked about.

[dakattack]

Sky Hiranger,
 I noticed on your first post that you said it was necessary to change to a kick flywheel when running the kicker set up mated to a 1.3 liter.  Could you please elaborate on this some more?  I am in the middle of my kicker 2 right now and would appreciate your input.  Also, when you changed the flywheel, were you able to use the samurai starter?
Loren

[skyhiranger]

Sky Hiranger,
 I noticed on your first post that you said it was necessary to change to a kick flywheel when running the kicker set up mated to a 1.3 liter.  Could you please elaborate on this some more?  I am in the middle of my kicker 2 right now and would appreciate your input.  Also, when you changed the flywheel, were you able to use the samurai starter?
Loren

I may not have stated that clearly.  It is not a requirement to use a trackick flywheel and clutch.  But it is an "upgrade" from a samurai setup.  The trackick flywheel is heavier than the samurai flywheel, so therefore the engine will lug down better without stalling.  And the trackick clutch is bigger, so it will hold better than a samurai clutch.
I used a trackick starter, when I added the kicker 3 and trackick flywheel and clutch.  The trackick starter seems to be a better, more powerful starter than the samurai one.  I didn't even try to use the samurai starter.
I know the trackick flywheel is about 1/2" to 9/16" bigger diameter than a samurai flywheel.  And the trackick starter is mounted slightly farther away from the centerline of the flywheel than the samurai starter (assuming this is because of the larger flywheel diameter).  See my pics in the following thread........ http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,101077.0/all.html  But on the other hand, I have also heard of people using a trackick starter in place of their samurai starter on their 1.3 with the samurai tranny and flywheel.  So you may be able to mix and match flywheels and starters and get it to work.  I would run the starter, flywheel and clutch that matches the tranny you are running.
I am pretty sure if you are using a 1.6, you have to use a trackick starter, since the samurai starter is too fat and will hit the block, unless you grind on the block to clearance it.
IMO, there is no reason not to run the trackick starter, flywheel and clutch.  They are all upgrades to the samurai stuff.  They may cost you money to buy them, if you don't already have them, but they are worth it.

[dakattack]

I appreciate the clarification!  I am supposed to getting that stuff as part of a long standing engine deal, but wanted to be able to run on the current stuff for awhile.  Thanks!
Loren

[Skyman]

To get the information out there; the 1.3 starter will work with the 1.6 8 valve engine. However you do have to clearance either the engine, or the starter. I chose to grind a little off the aluminum housing of the starter instead of the block. I didn't really want to grind anything from the block of the engine.

I didn't have access to a 1.6 starter at the time. If I would have had a 1.6 starter or the option to go get one, I would have run the 1.6 starter. Skyhiranger is correct the 1.6 starter seems to be a stronger better version and an upgrade from the 1.3

[Mope]

The starter off a 1.6 automatic is stronger than the standard tranny starter. I can't remember where I learned this, but it is what I was told.

[kasematukl]

Here in Europe there are numerous brands of starter motors for the 1.3 and 1.6 engines found in Samurais, Vitaras (Trackkick), Swift, Jimny, Baleno... 8V/16V...

All these starters are interchangeable except the bigger dia starters will hit the block of the 1.6 engine.
There are also gear reduction starters on the market.
Power rating is 0.7 - 0.9kw. The number of teeth on the sprocket is 8 or 9. Possibly the 8teeth sprocket starter will give a more "powerfull" feeling because of the higher ratio starter/flywheel

Klaus

BTW: Skyhirangers statement about the Kick flywheel in a sami is right - the heavier flywheel is a huge improvement. The Kick 8V 200mm dia clutch or the 16V 215mm dia clutch is also a big improvment over the Sami 190mm dia clutch.

[weed]

Here in Europe there are numerous brands of starter motors for the 1.3 and 1.6 engines found in Samurais, Vitaras (Trackkick), Swift, Jimny, Baleno... 8V/16V...

All these starters are interchangeable except the bigger dia starters will hit the block of the 1.6 engine.
There are also gear reduction starters on the market.
Power rating is 0.7 - 0.9kw. The number of teeth on the sprocket is 8 or 9. Possibly the 8teeth sprocket starter will give a more "powerfull" feeling because of the higher ratio starter/flywheel

Klaus

BTW: Skyhirangers statement about the Kick flywheel in a sami is right - the heavier flywheel is a huge improvement. The Kick 8V 200mm dia clutch or the 16V 215mm dia clutch is also a big improvment over the Sami 190mm dia clutch.

Hey Klaus, what did ya ever figure out with your stripped coupler?  Weed

[kasematukl]

Hey Klaus, what did ya ever figure out with your stripped coupler?  Weed

I took some carefull measurements to ensure everything is lined up properly. What I found is that the mating surface of the distance blocks (the ones that goes between the sami t-case and the adapter flange) was not in a 90 degree angle to the shaft axis... I resurfaced this area (two blocks had to be machined down some 0.002 - 0.003" before the the milling head scratches the other blocks)

At the moment the "new" coupler sleeve is in service for about 1500mi with no issues... but I'm looking forward to make one more coupler sleeve and get it hardened. It's just difficult to find a shop that will do the job for a reasonable price.

Klaus