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| | |-+  homemade m/l's using cheerekee Shackels...POST UP PLEASE!!!
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Author Topic: homemade m/l's using cheerekee Shackels...POST UP PLEASE!!!  (Read 951 times)
86badboy
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« on: Thursday, August 24, 2006, 01:01:30 AM »

for those that have done this before, POST UP!!!

first off i have searched...but wasnt impressed with the results, so here i am-

gonna give the m/l's a shot... i got some stock cheerekee shackels laying around that i will use...also, i want my rig to stay at the same ride hieght if possible...

so...i am curiouse...

1- Does it matter whether the cheekee shackel goes on top or bottom...?

2- so what should the estimated length of the other shackel be?

3- will i  need a stopper to limit upper travel...how do these work- plate welded to the end of the frame?
« Last Edit: Thursday, August 24, 2006, 01:02:51 AM by 86badboy » Logged

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Orionn
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« Reply #1 on: Thursday, August 24, 2006, 09:01:15 AM »

Stock springs or YJ's?

Jimmyr and I are currently putting this together for his...... he is using YJ's.

Your first two questions will depend on what spring you will use.

Number 3, you will need something regardless, becouse of the nature of the stock spring mount (outboard of the rail)  Depending on the spring length, depends on how big. You may be able to bottom out against the bumper bottom, thats what were going to do.

We are looking at using stock YJ shackles (they are cheaper and more plentifull here) with stock Zuki shackles in the stock location.
We have not been able to work on it though for a week or so, we'll probably get back to it next week.

Sorry, not much info.
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n0lan
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« Reply #2 on: Thursday, August 24, 2006, 09:08:51 AM »

there is a HOWTO on the ORC board:

MISSING LINKS




Nolan
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nolan
86badboy
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« Reply #3 on: Thursday, August 24, 2006, 11:15:50 AM »

thanks...im planning on using stock springs
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skyhiranger
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« Reply #4 on: Thursday, August 24, 2006, 12:18:53 PM »

I think you will need to at least use stock rear springs up front, otherwise when you add MLs the shackle angle will be wrong.
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eruby
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Here, hold this while I try to go over that.


« Reply #5 on: Thursday, August 24, 2006, 12:51:08 PM »

I think you will need to at least use stock rear springs up front, otherwise when you add MLs the shackle angle will be wrong.

looks like the springs are stock fronts in the pic from the link nolan provided. that's an old post - wonder if it's still going strong.
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skyhiranger
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« Reply #6 on: Thursday, August 24, 2006, 02:37:28 PM »

looks like the springs are stock fronts in the pic from the link nolan provided. that's an old post - wonder if it's still going strong.

My guess is going to be that they are stock rear springs (or at least the main leaf is from the rear pack).  But I've been known to be wrong before... ;D
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86badboy
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« Reply #7 on: Thursday, August 24, 2006, 03:27:47 PM »

if i have to i will use rear springs...but i think ive heard of people running the stock fronts ???
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eruby
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« Reply #8 on: Thursday, August 24, 2006, 04:26:28 PM »

if i have to i will use rear springs...but i think ive heard of people running the stock fronts ???

let us know.
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Lizooki
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« Reply #9 on: Thursday, August 24, 2006, 08:12:57 PM »

I have built  the ones from the ORC bbs and have been runnig them for 2 years with no problems. I am running RUF and I made bumpstops to stop the uptravel and control ride height. I built them just like the ORC MLs.


Matt 8)
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Jbird
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« Reply #10 on: Thursday, August 24, 2006, 09:56:22 PM »

looks like the springs are stock fronts in the pic from the link nolan provided. that's an old post - wonder if it's still going strong.

That's my Zuk (and hand) in those pics from the ORC board.

Yes I'm still running the same set-up. No they are not stock front springs. They are hybrid packs. (Rear main leaf with some CJ leafs)

You can't run missing links in the front with-out running longer springs. Rear springs are 3 inches longer than stock fronts. The "missing-link" fills in that 3 inches. Make sense?


* missing link.JPG (93.05 KB, 684x456 - viewed 53 times.)
« Last Edit: Thursday, August 24, 2006, 10:09:06 PM by Jbird » Logged
durnzuki
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« Reply #11 on: Thursday, August 24, 2006, 10:00:05 PM »

  Here's mine with RUF.  Not very good pictures.  I will post more this weekend.


* rock zuki 003.jpg (84.32 KB, 807x605 - viewed 36 times.)

* rock zuki 006.jpg (85.86 KB, 807x605 - viewed 38 times.)
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86badboy
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« Reply #12 on: Friday, August 25, 2006, 01:16:40 AM »

That's my Zuk (and hand) in those pics from the ORC board.

Yes I'm still running the same set-up. No they are not stock front springs. They are hybrid packs. (Rear main leaf with some CJ leafs)

You can't run missing links in the front with-out running longer springs. Rear springs are 3 inches longer than stock fronts. The "missing-link" fills in that 3 inches. Make sense?
Jbird... so which end is the cheerekee shackel on, top or bottom?  

and what is the estimated length of the other shackle...

how does that work with the center pin...does it move the axle forward at all ???
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Jbird
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« Reply #13 on: Friday, August 25, 2006, 07:21:36 AM »

Jbird... so which end is the cheerekee shackel on, top or bottom?  

and what is the estimated length of the other shackle...

how does that work with the center pin...does it move the axle forward at all ???

The cherokee shackle is the top one, the horizontal one

The length of the other (vertical) shackle is completely up to you. I've seen people run stock length and I've seen 2 inch longer used.

Yes your axle will be moved almost 1.5 inches forward when you run the rear springs in the stock frame mounts. Longer wheelbase is a good thing. If you're running bigger tires it also gives you more room at the back of the wheel well. If you don't want your axle moved forward then you'll need to re-drill new holes for the centering pin in your perches and plates.
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86badboy
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« Reply #14 on: Friday, August 25, 2006, 11:03:28 AM »

awsome...exactly what i wanted ;D

this next one may sound newb...but i try ;D

will moving the front axle forward 1.5" by using rear springs cause any problems with my steering?  -im SKy's DragLINk over the top-(tierod remained the same)
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