how do i remove a diesel from a VW?

[D-Rock]

Ok so i should say I've never removed an engine from a car before so I don't want to eff something up. 
So i located a NA VW Diesel in a '85 Golf.  The company I started working for actually had it sitting out behind their barn, and were looking for someone to take it off their hands.  I figured being the nice guy I am, I would take it for them.     I believe its a 1.6.

So question 1: how do i get it running?  I jumped it and it definately turns over, but its not firing.  I put a little fresh fuel in it, but I figure it needs to be primed somehow, if it was run out of fuel. 

question 2:  how long will it take tp pull the engine and what do  I need to keep, what can I cut?   I need to get this thing soon, but my stepfather will not let me put the car on his property, so I'll have to just pull the motor and junk the car.  So I'm thinking i'll just yank the engine where it sits and  load the engine in the back of the truck and trailer the car somewhere. 

question 3: what other parts of the car are useful for the Samurai? 


Thanks,
Derek

[Zippy]

Have a look on the Acme site for some of the parts you will want to keep.....the basic list is anything attached to the motor minus the alternator.  You will want to dig out the glow plug relay and harness.  Keep the fuel filter base.  You could use the rad but I would go to the 27" model.  Keep the coolant expansion bottle.  I pulled my TD in the field using the bucket on the tractor as a hoist in about 2 hrs.  From experience with both I have pulled they are a tight fit but I may be pulling them the hard way too 

kevin

[D-Rock]

Thanks Kev, I kinda figured you'd be the first to answer.    I've been wanting to ask you, but haven't caught you on AIM in a while.   So the motor can be lifted out?  The way it looked i thought maybe the engine would have to be unbolted and the car lifted off of it.   I do have a bucket loader and pleanty of lifting equipment to use. 

Thanks for the help.

[AcmeAdapters]

The VW diesel should start even if it has been sitting awhile unless like you say it was run out of fuel.  connect a gallon jug or similar to the injection pump inlet at the front of the pump just behind the timing cover and hang it from the hood with a hose in the bottom to gravity feed the IP, be sure the cold start lever is engaged, it is located between the IP and block, it needs to be in the rearward position. Hot wire the IP fuel shutoff solenoid at the rear of the pump and glow plugs (big red wire at the rear of the head under the last injector) with 12 volts from the battery, leave it connected for about 15 seconds then crank the starter and dissconnect the hot wire after about 20-25 seconds total.  If it has comprewssion and fuel it will start.

To pull the engine we find it easiest to remove all connecting mounts and parts including all the shift linkage, clutch, cables, Hoses, axles and exhaust and drop it complete out the bottom.

[wolfgang]

Ok so i should say I've never removed an engine from a car before so I don't want to eff something up. 
So i located a NA VW Diesel in a '85 Golf.  The company I started working for actually had it sitting out behind their barn, and were looking for someone to take it off their hands.  I figured being the nice guy I am, I would take it for them.     I believe its a 1.6.

So question 1: how do i get it running?  I jumped it and it definately turns over, but its not firing.  I put a little fresh fuel in it, but I figure it needs to be primed somehow, if it was run out of fuel. 

question 2:  how long will it take tp pull the engine and what do  I need to keep, what can I cut?   I need to get this thing soon, but my stepfather will not let me put the car on his property, so I'll have to just pull the motor and junk the car.  So I'm thinking i'll just yank the engine where it sits and  load the engine in the back of the truck and trailer the car somewhere. 

question 3: what other parts of the car are useful for the Samurai? 


Thanks,
Derek

1) When I took mine out of my 80 rabbit, I had to drop it thru the bottom. I ended up cutting the two drive shafts, the exhaust, fuel lines, and the throttle and shifter cable.  I unbolted the clutch lever (back bottom, drivers side of the exhaust). There was four engine mounts, one by the exhaust, one on eather side, and one up front.  make sure you are careful with the electrical system you are going to reuse most of it.

Bring a wide range of tools with you. I had both english and metric sockets, phillips and flat head hose clamps, and metric hex bolts.  The bolt for the engine mounts was a 22mm on mine, so I need to bring one with me the second time I was there. I also broght a generator, a sawzall, a grinder with 6 cutoff wheels, an engine crane, a set of jackstands, a mover's dolly, a low profile jack, a 13mm, a 15mm and a 17mm box / open wrench, two pairs of vice grips, and a pair of diagnal cutters.  I ended up using all of this stuff. I also took mine out in a field, and just left the car.

2) my diesel likes to be warm. there is a glow plug light on the dash, turn the key until that turns on, wait. it will go off and then crank it. Diesels need to be a certain temp before it will start. Make sure you have all the bubbles out of the fuel system, otherwise it will run like junk, if at all.

3) the front disk can be used as the disk for the transmission brake, if you choose to do that.
     the fuel filter, located on the passenger's side shock tower
     the seats are not too bad, some of them are better than the suzuki's.
     the gauge cluster located down by the shifter, just useful gauges for a diesel.
     the electrical attached to the engine.
     the radiator, but the 27 incher is better if you can get it.
     assorted bottles on the side of the engine.

[JimB]

I've pulled a few of them at junkyards where I had little in the way of equipment and a seatbelt/shoulder strap works great. Just chop it off with a knife and tie a loop around the manifolds and IP. Try to get it sort of balanced. Unhook all of the wires, hoses, exhaust pipe, and cables, pull the bolts out of the tranny leaving one finger tight to hold it together until the last minute. Unhook the motor mounts and pull it out with your bucket loader. An assistant with a prybar to guide it is helpful. I would remove the radiator and the vacuum pump first so they don't get damaged by the crude removal. An engine hoist is more careful but not as much fun .

[D-Rock]

Freekin sweet! Thanks for all the help guys.  You all make it sound like it pretty painless.

[D-Rock]

I got the car running today.  I did like Acme said and gravity fed the IP. (A mountain Dew bottle worked great as a fuel can!)  I must have hooked the hose to the return line at first though, because there was more fuel in the bottle after it started than before. It must have done the trick though, because it ran like that.  Once i discovered my mistake i hooked the gravity feed line to the intake hose.

 I'm real confused on this running issue though....

I had it running good, even backed it up and drove forward a few feet with 2 flat tires.  But before that, and after it stalled it would only run while i held the key on start.   I could rev it up and it ran fine, but as soon as i let off the key it would die.  Even at WOT as soon as i let off on the key it would shut off.  I know its definately getting fuel, and it was running before, so the only other thing it could be is an electrical issue i guess.  Any thoughts on this?

[Zippy]

Check and make sure you have 12v+ to the wire on the IP when the key is in the run position.  If not then it is shutting fuel off.

Kevin

[D-Rock]

AH HA!  That must be it.  Thanks Kev!   

Oh and i just thought of something else.  The fuel in the lines smells like varnish, is that bad?