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| | |-+  How to pour a spool....
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Author Topic: How to pour a spool....  (Read 16051 times)
durnzuki
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« Reply #60 on: Friday, September 26, 2008, 06:56:32 PM »

If this is like the stuff we used you have only a couple of min. before everything is hard.  We used it to epoxy rods in concrete and you could put it in a horizontal hole and you had to hurry or it was to hard to put the rod in.  We used manilla evelopes to pour it and it never got hot enough to hurt it.  It had got hard to the touch before it got hot to the touch.
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saltbranch
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« Reply #61 on: Friday, September 26, 2008, 11:59:42 PM »

Zukitough
I dont think this stuff can be easily removed once it has set.. I think if it fails your screwed, I just dont see it coming out easily.
I will use a hole saw and cut some big holes in a small coffee can, cover holes with duct tape and pour to see if tape fails. I'll try that this weekend.
I know in 90 degree heat it will take about 20- 30 minutes for the socket fast to set, before its safe to pull test. In cooler weather its often over an hour before its safe to pull test on. Another factor for time is the amount used on a pour.
Personally i think it work fine, or atleast in my application it would. The zuk I have now is not a hard core wheeler.  Let me do some heat testing this weekend, Ill post pics with details.
Why are the lead filled units failing? Seems to me it would be a combo of heat and  the soft nature of lead.
Once I get the pics and info Ill start another post called-- Poured Lockers.
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saltbranch
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« Reply #62 on: Saturday, September 27, 2008, 01:33:40 AM »

Just got acall from work. got to go out of town Sat. Am till Monday PM . I will try and test during the week/post pics etc.
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ZUKIMON
Krew Krawlers
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One foot and counting.....


« Reply #63 on: Monday, September 29, 2008, 01:46:41 PM »

Only problem I see with your socket fast is the curing time. One reason I did the lead is because of the fact that you have to put in an axle shaft on the bottom side of the carrier to keep the lead from pouring out while your are pouring it in. It's also easy enough to "wrestle" the shaft out of the side gear should the lead try to lock it in place and then you can clean up the splines of the side gear easy enough with a scratch awl or the like, whereas you would not be able to do this with your socket fast. :-\\  I just don't think that your stuff will produce good results in this app, but then again, I have been wrong once before. ;D
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comp
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« Reply #64 on: Tuesday, September 30, 2008, 03:35:51 PM »

cool,,,this is old school,,,,,i have droped fishing weights in the spiders at the drag strip before
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saltbranch
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« Reply #65 on: Tuesday, September 30, 2008, 09:17:00 PM »

ZUKIMON, it may not work......its been along time since  I have seen the inside of zuk dif. From what I remember the spider gears sit in a carrier housing with the cross pin/axle aligning them, axles come in from each side. The carrrier with the spiders had "windows" and on each side  the axles fit flush with the inside of carrier. If that is true it should work. You could even use a high heat tape to seal off all openings excpt the pour opening. If someone has a stock rear 3rd center chunk to sell cheap I will be the ginnea pig. My zuk is a 100 miles away from home. It would be very cool if this worked, its harder than lead, not affected by temps like lead, plus does not change the temperment of the metal like a Lincoln locker.
Can someone post pics of what a stock center chunk looks like?
Iam thinking once the stock center chunk is out, turn it pinion down,degrease it ,  tape off the carrier openings except one, tape off the inside of the spiders that axles fit in and pour.
Like I said before its been along time since I have seen the inside of Zuk dif......
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Krew Krawlers
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« Reply #66 on: Tuesday, September 30, 2008, 10:26:53 PM »

Taping off the side gears would be a great idea, and one I did not think of. ;)
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saltbranch
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« Reply #67 on: Tuesday, September 30, 2008, 10:34:51 PM »

taping off for socket fast yes, but lead????? That would be some high heat tape
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Krew Krawlers
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« Reply #68 on: Wednesday, October 01, 2008, 09:03:16 AM »

No, no, no....I meant for socket fast. ;) ;D
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Jeremiah
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« Reply #69 on: Monday, April 06, 2009, 09:55:25 PM »

Anyone else have any long-term reports on this  ??? I'm guessing here, but seems like one benefit that hasn't been talked about here: the lead being soft (and possibly prone to failure) may save the axles / u-joints etc. Doesn't sound like (so far) anyone's broke anything but the soft lead... which can be re-heated and re-poured right?
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Krew Krawlers
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« Reply #70 on: Friday, April 10, 2009, 11:32:05 PM »

That's pretty much what I have heard/seen. I've thought about doing it again but I think I will just weld. ;D
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naracermcb
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« Reply #71 on: Friday, May 08, 2009, 11:32:01 PM »

i saw at the begining of the forum that you said you chose a 90 and up front diff for the 4 pin carrier. i thought all the front ends had 2 pin? if it is a four pin can i just use a locker for the rear up front to? or do i need to change something?
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Krew Krawlers
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« Reply #72 on: Friday, May 08, 2009, 11:33:33 PM »

In order to use a rear locker up front, you need to get the one that lets you use the stock sidegears. ;)
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skyhiranger
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« Reply #73 on: Saturday, May 09, 2009, 10:05:47 AM »

i saw at the begining of the forum that you said you chose a 90 and up front diff for the 4 pin carrier. i thought all the front ends had 2 pin? if it is a four pin can i just use a locker for the rear up front to? or do i need to change something?

86-88 samurai front carriers are 4 pin.
88.5 and up samurai front carriers are 2 pin.
All samurai rear carriers are 4 pin.
All trackick front carriers are 2 pin.
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nobearsyet
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« Reply #74 on: Sunday, June 21, 2009, 01:07:18 PM »

You could use Linotype from the reloading equipment supplier as it's harder when cold than pure lead
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