How to pour a spool....

[ZUKIMON]

Things needed, a third member, lead, pan, and a way to melt the lead. An axle shaft would be helpful.

First thing to do is to block the drive wheels, and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Really though, isn't that how all directions go!?! Seriously, you need to locate a third member that you can do this to, or use the one that you allready have. I opted for a '90 up third with four pin carrier.

First thing to do is to follow the FSM instructions on removal of the carrier. What I did was to mark the hole that the keeper flange was in, and then removed the flanges and counted the turns to remove the bearing preload cap. Do this for both sides, and then keep them seperate, and right down your findings.

Second is to take the bearing caps off so that you can remove the carrier.

Third is to remove the carrier, making sure that the bearing races, and bearings are kept seperate and on their respective sides.

Fourth is to clean the third completely of any and all oil that may still be on it.

Now, remove the side cover on the carrier.


Now to the good part. You will need an amount of lead, somewhere around the size of a tuna can. You can use whatever you have to melt it with, I happened to have this Butane camping stove, and it worked great.
Place the lead in the pan, and start melting.



You will need to fab up a way to keep the lead from pouring out of the two holes in the other side (opposite) the side that you removed the side cover from. I used some peices of license plate, that did the trick.

Now you will need to actually pour the carrier full of the melted lead that you should now have in the pan.

You should have something like this.


And if you have an extra rear axle, you can save yourself some cleanup time by not doing this.


Don't worry, if you get some lead where it doesn't belong, a propane torch will take the work out of the job for you.
I hope that this is a good presentation of how to pour your carrier for better traction. Remember, anytime that you are melting a metal, always wear eye protection, and gloves. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask me.

[GeneralChaos]

Probablly a dumb newbie question but.......

Why pour a spool (or more of a backgound info on it) and what are the advantages to it?

thanks
Steve

[POWERSTROKEN]

   And NEVER use that pan again for human food preperation.l

[ZUKIMON]

Probablly a dumb newbie question but.......

Why pour a spool (or more of a backgound info on it) and what are the advantages to it?

thanks
Steve

Very good questions, just didn't really have the time tonight to post that. Basicaly the reason for pouring a spool is to "lock up" that particular axle assy. The spool is the same as welding the rear end, or buying a mini spool, just cheaper if you have the stuff, and the ability. I wanted to pour one, just to see what would happen, and I am happy with it allthough it is still sitting in the floor.  It is a wonderful way to gain traction, and the cheapest way of doing it short of buying the mini spool.

[ZUKIMON]

   And NEVER use that pan again for human food preperation.l

Well, YES!! I thought that was a given, but you are right for not assuming that.

[GeneralChaos]

   And NEVER use that pan again for human food preperation.l

speaking from experiance.........because that's usually the reason why things like that are posted



Steve

[MrK]

Tell us if you find the lead to be a bit more forgiving being a soft metal and all. Very cool project. 

[ZUKIMON]

Tell us if you find the lead to be a bit more forgiving being a soft metal and all. Very cool project. 

I sure will. I know that alot of people have done this, and it seems to be a wonderful way to go.

[POWERSTROKEN]

   And NEVER use that pan again for human food preperation.

   Why do you think Window Licker is the way he is?

[turbodrabbit]

   Why do you think Window Licker is the way he is?

Because lead paint chip taste sweet, just like antifreeze 

[Stomper]

Because lead paint chip taste sweet, just like antifreeze 

[jzuk]

I was wandering, is it strong enough? I have lockright in the rear and I want to move it to the front. I was thinking about getting a spool for the rear than, But that seems like a good idea. so how do you find it so far?

[Zukisam]

After reading this, I went yesterday to the Ft Bliss Rod & Gun Club. I picked up 8lbs of all lead bullets, NO jacketing. I want to pour the spool THIS weekend and hopefully have enough time to remove the Targa, dang that looks sweet  

[Zukisam]

Well, everything went well. I removed the Targa and i like it alot, "feels" more open. Finally, today i poured my spool and got it all put back together, TWICE!!!! what I did was I poured the lead in from the side with the two holes and it worked great, since I had alot left over I put some in the bottom where the splines go. BIG MISTAKE. I didnt put alot, just enough to cover the center pins. when I put the third member back in the axle, the shafts would not go in all the way I had to remove the third member again and used a drill bit to shave out excess lead untill the center pins were showing again. I cant figure out how to add a pic to the post but they will be in my Gallery. Enjoy

[Zukisam]

Well, everything went well. I removed the Targa and i like it alot, "feels" more open. Finally, today i poured my spool and got it all put back together, TWICE!!!! what I did was I poured the lead in from the side with the two holes and it worked great, since I had alot left over I put some in the bottom where the splines go. BIG MISTAKE. I didnt put alot, just enough to cover the center pins. when I put the third member back in the axle, the shafts would not go in all the way I had to remove the third member again and used a drill bit to shave out excess lead untill the center pins were showing again. I cant figure out how to add a pic to the post but they will be in my Gallery. Enjoy

[hotwired]

So, now that a little time has gone by, how has this held up in the trails/ rocks/ mud?? I'm more than a little cheap myself, so if this works I think I'll give it a go. Plus being lead, it could always be melted back out to go back to an open diff. Why, i would want to I don't know, but I like the option over doing a Fozzy that can't be reversed.

Dave

[ZUKIMON]

Dave, I hate to say it........but I never installed the third in my diff. I know, i'm lazy, but I am also very buisy with my children.   I will get it installed some day, and I will wheel the heck out of it and post up exactly what it does.

Bryan

[samuRI]

Poured my "spool" out of lead 3 weeks ago and I love it. Since then I have wheeled harder than ever before without any problems.
 I like it better on road then my old locker, no unpredictable opening and closing, no more ratcheting and no more clunks (although I do miss the looks I used to get on-road when people thought my axle was exploding).
When I poured it I just stuffed some aluminum foil in the other side to keep the lead out of where the axle goes in.
Easy, cheap and effective mod, well worth the time.

[Zukidiot]

If your really cheap (like me) and don't want to buy lead, go to a tire shop and ask for some old wheel weights. Usually their more than happy to give you as much as you want.

[ZUKIMON]

If your really cheap (like me) and don't want to buy lead, go to a tire shop and ask for some old wheel weights. Usually their more than happy to give you as much as you want.

Come on up......I have two 5 gallon buckets full that I will gladly give to whoever wants them.

[jerseyzuks]

If your really cheap (like me) and don't want to buy lead, go to a tire shop and ask for some old wheel weights. Usually their more than happy to give you as much as you want.

Wheel weight lead isn't pure lead (maybe a lead/tin mix?)  It doesn't pour as well.  I have tried it when I make sinkers.  I have found that if I use 50% pure lead, and 50% wheel weight lead it works OK

[catfishblues]

Wheel weight lead isn't pure lead (maybe a lead/tin mix?)  It doesn't pour as well.  I have tried it when I make sinkers.  I have found that if I use 50% pure lead, and 50% wheel weight lead it works OK

Wheel weights are an alloy of lead and antimony. About 10% antimony. It's used to harden the alloy.  Bullets have some, but usually a much smaller percentage. Old car batteries have some too. Not sure of the percentages there. I work with a guy who casts his own bullets. One word of advice from his experience, wear LEATHER shoes. He was casting one day and bumped the table where his FULL solder pot was sitting. He grabbed the table to stabilize it, but about 1/2 oz sloshed out and landed on top of his synthetic shoes. Picking the once-molten plastic out of his fresh wound was pretty painful, he said. You can imagine what the burn looked like. Tasty stuff.

SAFETY FIRST!!!!

[samilitant]

Does anyone know if this could ever be done on a 2-pinion rear?  I have a 2-pinion '85 toy rear axle I want to pour.  I guess it would splooge out the sides of the carrier, but what if you welded some sheet metal over the sides to hold it in?  You could always cut the sheet metal off IF you ever needed to get in there, which I don't think you ever do unless you're replacing the carrier anyway.

[ZUKIMON]

OK, I finaly got the "Poured Spool" in and all I can say is................I love it!  

The things that I have noticed about it are:

People will look at you like what the heck are you doing spinning tires everytime that you turn.
It makes it want to track straighter.
It makes it a little harder to turn.
It makes the Zuk do some wicked donuts.
It will chew up your yard pretty badly if you try to make a tight turn.

Overall, I can't really complain. I haven't really wheeled it hard yet, but what little that I have tried to do with it, I can clearly see the difference. It has been the best mod for the least amount of work and money that I have done yet. We will see what the long term effects are come the Fall run.

Bryan

[ronzukin]

OK, I finaly got the "Poured Spool" in and all I can say is................I love it!  

The things that I have noticed about it are:

People will look at you like what the heck are you doing spinning tires everytime that you turn.
It makes it want to track straighter.
It makes it a little harder to turn.
It makes the Zuk do some wicked donuts.
It will chew up your yard pretty badly if you try to make a tight turn.

Overall, I can't really complain. I haven't really wheeled it hard yet, but what little that I have tried to do with it, I can clearly see the difference. It has been the best mod for the least amount of work and money that I have done yet. We will see what the long term effects are come the Fall run.

Bryan

I told ya...I love the looks I get pulling away from the gas pump barely above idle and spinning tires.People think you have lost your mind paying 2.50 a gallon and barking tires everywhere.

[ZUKIMON]

I told ya...I love the looks I get pulling away from the gas pump barely above idle and spinning tires.People think you have lost your mind paying 2.50 a gallon and barking tires everywhere.

Yep, that's the general concensus.

[jerseyzuks]

I told ya...I love the looks I get pulling away from the gas pump barely above idle and spinning tires.People think you have lost your mind paying 2.50 a gallon and barking tires everywhere.

Dang, is it that bad?

-I don't want a locker, I need the zuk for the snow (wife will be taking my 4x4 Dakota when it snows)

-I would love a selectable locker, like an ARB, but can't justify the $$$

-Open diffs aren't really working offroad. 

I have plenty of lead, and a device for heating and pouring lead.  Seems like the poured diff was the way to go, but I do drive my zuk on the road. 

I need to attract as little attention as possible,  so it may not work if it sounds like I am always chirping the tires

[ZUKIMON]

Well, sounds like you have the same issues that I had. I had no choice as to put mine in, my rear third was shot and this was the only one that I had to go back with. It's not as bad as it would seem, but it will be a hoot in the ice and snow. I think that it wil be OK, time will tell and I will have to just get used to it when it gets here. I have always played rough in the snow and this should make it a little easier, and most likely a little more predictable. You seem to never know when or if the rear will come around with an open diff, but this way I will most likely come full circle anytime that I want. Do you see what I am talking about?? One thing that you have to look forward to is the fact that you can remove it anytime, and without a whole lot of work. As for not attracting attention to yourself, well.....it will happen but I don't think that it will that bad.

[jerseyzuks]

As for not attracting attention to yourself, well.....it will happen but I don't think that it will that bad.

Well, the local police are always looking at my zuk a little funny.  Everything is 100% legal, so I haven't had any real issues so far. 

I have the SJ410 backing plates, so it is really easy to swap a chunk.  I might just pour one and try it for a while.

[ZUKIMON]

Well, the local police are always looking at my zuk a little funny.  Everything is 100% legal, so I haven't had any real issues so far. 

I have the SJ410 backing plates, so it is really easy to swap a chunk.  I might just pour one and try it for a while.

I understand.    That's not a stupid idea, that's a great idea and I'll support it!!  (I love the Ladies Man )

[filter]

I have nothing useful to add other than I have lead if someone needs it. Not sure how pure it is but it's extremely heavy for it's size.

[jerseyzuks]

I have nothing useful to add other than I have lead if someone needs it. Not sure how pure it is but it's extremely heavy for it's size.

How much do you have? 

[filter]

Umm 21lbs worth. I'll take a pic of the "bar" tomorrow.

[jerseyzuks]

Umm 21lbs worth. I'll take a pic of the "bar" tomorrow.

Cool!

My uncle had a decent amount that he tossed away.  It was a ballast weight that was installed in the boat to compensate for the single outboard motor.  From what my dad was describing, I think it was about 100 - 150 lbs worth.

That would have filled a lot of diffs!   

[filter]

Cool!

My uncle had a decent amount that he tossed away.  It was a ballast weight that was installed in the boat to compensate for the single outboard motor.  From what my dad was describing, I think it was about 100 - 150 lbs worth.

That would have filled a lot of diffs!   

Ok so I forgot to take a pic. How much does it take to fill a diff? I'll do the pic right now before I forget.

Here's the pic. That's a quarter on top of it. Anyone want some lead?

[jerseyzuks]

Ok so I forgot to take a pic. How much does it take to fill a diff? I'll do the pic right now before I forget.

Here's the pic. That's a quarter on top of it. Anyone want some lead?

I would guess about 3-4 lbs worth

[Zukisam]

I BROKE IT TODAY, going to weld it!!

[phoenix827]

I BROKE IT TODAY, going to weld it!!

More info?

[Zukisam]

I just noticed over a period of a couple days that it was not chirping tires as much. I got home the other day and jacked up one side and was able to turn the tire by hand. I had to melt the lead out by using a butane torch, it worked well but you gotta have some patience. There was alot of lead in the bottom of the axle but no damage to anything. It worked well for about 4 months, when I took it apart only one side gear was stripped. It was the gear that goes on the outside,(passenger side I believe). The other 3 gears were fully incased with lead.

[ZUKIMON]

Ok so I forgot to take a pic. How much does it take to fill a diff? I'll do the pic right now before I forget.

Here's the pic. That's a quarter on top of it. Anyone want some lead?

I would guess that much lead would fill about 5 diffs. I didn't use a third of what I had, and I thought that I would use alot more. There's really not that much room in there when you really get to looking and thinking about it.


Bryan

[ObeseFieldMouse]

we recently took our rear end to a fab shop and paid them 20$ to fill the holes that the teeth ride in with weld...it pops every once and a while but its locked really good...didnt break at zuwharrie lol

[ZUKIMON]

Little update....... I have wheeled the Zuk several time with the rear poured, and I have also either flat towed it or driven it to the trails, and I have had zero problem with it.

[Mutant Zuk]

 Just a thought! I know every one looks for a cheaper way to build so you can have more $ for the other stuff,and I think the poured spool idea is a good one but lead is kind of soft for the force its having to contend with.So why not use bronze for a pour? Yeah I know it takes more heat to melt, but it would be tougher.  M.Z.

[ZUKIMON]

Never though about it, and I don't really know where to get it either. I wanted something that was basicaly free, and something that I can remove very easily.

[zukitough]

my father told me that the old timers used to do this, but they used babbit. it can be found as a bearing in the old oil well pumps and stuff, plus he said it wasnt toxic either. i think it is the same metal they r using in the "green" bird shot these days instead of lead. it is also a lil harder but melts about the same. the good thing about a poured locker i would think is if it wore out it would do very little damage because it is softer.

[Trailduster79]

I would think that lead is too soft to be used as a spool.  I can see it working short term, but over time I think it will be prone to failing.

just weld it and then you won't have to worry about it.

[ZUKIMON]

If it does fail, just pull it apart and pour it again.   This is so easy, and it's not like it will really hurt anything if some pieces of it get slung around in the diff. I opted for this to be cheap, and easy, and so far it has worked great.

[phoenix827]

I would think that lead is too soft to be used as a spool.  I can see it working short term, but over time I think it will be prone to failing.

just weld it and then you won't have to worry about it.

In your case I think I would agree, I dunno how long it would hold up to a 360! lol

[skyhiranger]

Any of you guys that are actually running (or have ran) a lead spool.....any long-term updates, on how it is holding up?

[durnzuki]

 I had one fall apart on me, but it was operator error and I was doggin it.

[rngrdv]

Somebody kind of asked this question but I didn't see an answer.
I am going to be putting in some 83 Toy axles soon. I haven't seen the insides of them. Can you do the same thing to them or what?

[ZUKIMON]

Well, the one that I poured is now out. Ronnie (ronzukin) ran it for some time on the highway and it has finaly failed. We haven't pulled the third to see why, but I is definetly not locked anymore.

For the trail, I think that it would hold up just fine, but who knows. Either way, it's cheap and easy and very removable if you don't like it.

About the Toy rear, you can't do this to it, but you can weld it without removing the carrier. All you need to do is to pull the third and weld the spiders together through the windows in the carrier. Search for welded toy thirds, there are pics somewhere of it being done and they aren't too old.

[saltbranch]

My 1st post, I'm an old Zuk guy from 2000 on my last build. Anyways got a new zuk I use for hunting and was checkin out the new stuff out there. Came across this post.....Dam good idea!! I have welded spiders on many zuks in the past.
I work for a wire rope company, we make raising lines for drilling rigs, along with anything you can imagine for lifting applications. On the end of the raising lines are sockets. We use to use lead/babbit to secure the sockets to the wire rope.
For the last 12-15 yrs we have gone to a 2 part epoxy called socket fast or wire lok. It performs/stronger better than lead, easier to use, like bondo just mix it and pour. Main thing is to remove ALL grease from application area. With this stuff you could use duct tape to seal the carrier and pour.

[saltbranch]

Actually a better comparison would be.... it mixes like fiberglass, smells like Bondo though.

[durnzuki]

I have used a a two part epoxy that would work like that in construction.  Never thought of that, DUH

[saltbranch]

With lines poured with Socket Fast (depends on size of wire rope)we pull test them over 200k before sent to the rig, they use them for upto 10 times before sent back in for replacement. Once the socket fast has set its good to go.

[zukitough]

With lines poured with Socket Fast (depends on size of wire rope)we pull test them over 200k before sent to the rig, they use them for upto 10 times before sent back in for replacement. Once the socket fast has set its good to go.

send me some for my toy axles please

[saltbranch]

I will at no cost to you if you will post your experience/thoughts. The main thing is you must have everything grease free. Once its mixed you have about 20 minutes to complete pour. As its harding it will get fairly warm, to the point its uncomfortable to the touch. This is going to be a bit long post, but I want to explain how we use it, then you decide if you want to try it.

A socket is basically shaped like a funnel on the inside and has an end on it that is similar to a jaw x jaw turnbuckle, this end extends above the end of the "flower" and is used for the connection point. I'll use 5/16" cable as an example as it a popular winch cable size. Take the cable and drop down the length of the throat of socket, use tie wire and wrap tight around cable- on 5/16 this would be about 1.5- 2" from the end. Then you seperate each strand of cable, bend it out at a 45 degree angle from center core. Then unwravel each strand with a pair of pliers......creating a "flower" of wire rope so to speak. Degrease the flower, pull socket up over the flower, which condenses the flower inside the "funnnel". We seal the bottom side of socket/funnel with a Play Do like material( best description I can give) Anyways, then pour the socket fast. When doing this in field we have used duct tape, electric tape etc to seal.
Back when we used lead/babbit we could press out the  "flower" on used sockets. We would adapt the press's we use to swage wire rope to do this, or use sledge hammers. Basically cut the wire rope up next to the socket/ end of funnel , heat with a torch and knock it out.We reuse the sockets and replace the cable/wire rope. Once going to socket fast we had start using a machine shop to press out the "flowers". Heat does not effect socket fast.
If you want to try it PM me.

[zuki68]

MAYBE ITS JUST COMMON SENSE TO YOU GUYS BUT NO ONE HAS TOUCH ON ONE DANGER. BREATHING FUMES!!! MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA AND USE A MASK IF POSSIBLE.  KITCHEN STOVE WITH FAMILY AROUND ISNT THE BEST PLACE FOR LED. JUST MY .02 BUT I HAVE WORKED IN LEAD PLANTS FROM TIME TO TIME AND HAVE SEEN THE ILL EFFECTS. BOTH SHORT TERM AND LONT TERM.


ON THE OTHER SEEMS LIKE A SHORT TERM WAY OF LOCKING A DIFF BUT WILL PROVE VERY AFFECTIVE IN A SITUATION WHERE YOU WANT TO TEST ITS DRIVEABILITY BEFORE A PERMANANT WELD. GOOD WRITEUP AND FOLLOW THRU

[zukitough]

I will at no cost to you if you will post your experience/thoughts. The main thing is you must have everything grease free. Once its mixed you have about 20 minutes to complete pour. As its harding it will get fairly warm, to the point its uncomfortable to the touch. This is going to be a bit long post, but I want to explain how we use it, then you decide if you want to try it.

A socket is basically shaped like a funnel on the inside and has an end on it that is similar to a jaw x jaw turnbuckle, this end extends above the end of the "flower" and is used for the connection point. I'll use 5/16" cable as an example as it a popular winch cable size. Take the cable and drop down the length of the throat of socket, use tie wire and wrap tight around cable- on 5/16 this would be about 1.5- 2" from the end. Then you seperate each strand of cable, bend it out at a 45 degree angle from center core. Then unwravel each strand with a pair of pliers......creating a "flower" of wire rope so to speak. Degrease the flower, pull socket up over the flower, which condenses the flower inside the "funnnel". We seal the bottom side of socket/funnel with a Play Do like material( best description I can give) Anyways, then pour the socket fast. When doing this in field we have used duct tape, electric tape etc to seal.
Back when we used lead/babbit we could press out the  "flower" on used sockets. We would adapt the press's we use to swage wire rope to do this, or use sledge hammers. Basically cut the wire rope up next to the socket/ end of funnel , heat with a torch and knock it out.We reuse the sockets and replace the cable/wire rope. Once going to socket fast we had start using a machine shop to press out the "flowers". Heat does not effect socket fast.
If you want to try it PM me.

only two concerns with this "locker":
1. cant be removed easily if at all and
2. would the heat from the setting process make the glue on the back of the duct tape fail and possibly letting it run out before cure?

i dont mind being a guinnie pig, just dont want to ruin a good diff

[durnzuki]

If this is like the stuff we used you have only a couple of min. before everything is hard.  We used it to epoxy rods in concrete and you could put it in a horizontal hole and you had to hurry or it was to hard to put the rod in.  We used manilla evelopes to pour it and it never got hot enough to hurt it.  It had got hard to the touch before it got hot to the touch.

[saltbranch]

Zukitough
I dont think this stuff can be easily removed once it has set.. I think if it fails your screwed, I just dont see it coming out easily.
I will use a hole saw and cut some big holes in a small coffee can, cover holes with duct tape and pour to see if tape fails. I'll try that this weekend.
I know in 90 degree heat it will take about 20- 30 minutes for the socket fast to set, before its safe to pull test. In cooler weather its often over an hour before its safe to pull test on. Another factor for time is the amount used on a pour.
Personally i think it work fine, or atleast in my application it would. The zuk I have now is not a hard core wheeler.  Let me do some heat testing this weekend, Ill post pics with details.
Why are the lead filled units failing? Seems to me it would be a combo of heat and  the soft nature of lead.
Once I get the pics and info Ill start another post called-- Poured Lockers.

[saltbranch]

Just got acall from work. got to go out of town Sat. Am till Monday PM . I will try and test during the week/post pics etc.

[ZUKIMON]

Only problem I see with your socket fast is the curing time. One reason I did the lead is because of the fact that you have to put in an axle shaft on the bottom side of the carrier to keep the lead from pouring out while your are pouring it in. It's also easy enough to "wrestle" the shaft out of the side gear should the lead try to lock it in place and then you can clean up the splines of the side gear easy enough with a scratch awl or the like, whereas you would not be able to do this with your socket fast.   I just don't think that your stuff will produce good results in this app, but then again, I have been wrong once before.

[comp]

cool,,,this is old school,,,,,i have droped fishing weights in the spiders at the drag strip before

[saltbranch]

ZUKIMON, it may not work......its been along time since  I have seen the inside of zuk dif. From what I remember the spider gears sit in a carrier housing with the cross pin/axle aligning them, axles come in from each side. The carrrier with the spiders had "windows" and on each side  the axles fit flush with the inside of carrier. If that is true it should work. You could even use a high heat tape to seal off all openings excpt the pour opening. If someone has a stock rear 3rd center chunk to sell cheap I will be the ginnea pig. My zuk is a 100 miles away from home. It would be very cool if this worked, its harder than lead, not affected by temps like lead, plus does not change the temperment of the metal like a Lincoln locker.
Can someone post pics of what a stock center chunk looks like?
Iam thinking once the stock center chunk is out, turn it pinion down,degrease it ,  tape off the carrier openings except one, tape off the inside of the spiders that axles fit in and pour.
Like I said before its been along time since I have seen the inside of Zuk dif......

[ZUKIMON]

Taping off the side gears would be a great idea, and one I did not think of.

[saltbranch]

taping off for socket fast yes, but lead?? That would be some high heat tape

[ZUKIMON]

No, no, no....I meant for socket fast.

[Jeremiah]

Anyone else have any long-term reports on this  I'm guessing here, but seems like one benefit that hasn't been talked about here: the lead being soft (and possibly prone to failure) may save the axles / u-joints etc. Doesn't sound like (so far) anyone's broke anything but the soft lead... which can be re-heated and re-poured right?

[ZUKIMON]

That's pretty much what I have heard/seen. I've thought about doing it again but I think I will just weld.

[naracermcb]

i saw at the begining of the forum that you said you chose a 90 and up front diff for the 4 pin carrier. i thought all the front ends had 2 pin? if it is a four pin can i just use a locker for the rear up front to? or do i need to change something?

[ZUKIMON]

In order to use a rear locker up front, you need to get the one that lets you use the stock sidegears.

[skyhiranger]

i saw at the begining of the forum that you said you chose a 90 and up front diff for the 4 pin carrier. i thought all the front ends had 2 pin? if it is a four pin can i just use a locker for the rear up front to? or do i need to change something?

86-88 samurai front carriers are 4 pin.
88.5 and up samurai front carriers are 2 pin.
All samurai rear carriers are 4 pin.
All trackick front carriers are 2 pin.

[nobearsyet]

You could use Linotype from the reloading equipment supplier as it's harder when cold than pure lead

[Jeremiah]

Pure lead, as used for muzzleloaders and black powder cartridge arms, has a Brinell hardness of about 5; wheel weights have a brinell hardness of about 8 or 9. Linotype has a brinell hardness of about 22, making it an excellent alloy of bullet casting.

Wheel weights, are composed roughly of 95.5% lead, 4% antimony, and 0.5 % tin. Tin is added to increase the “filling out” of the mould... Antimony is used to give some molecular level hardness to the lead. Too much antimony in the lead alloy and the metal can actually become brittle enough to break on dropping. To get the best results, both tin and antimony must be present.


Here's an article discussing how to make wheel weight lead alloy about has hard at the Linotype:
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/alloyhardness/index.asp
Through heat-treating methods alone, they actually got the wheel weight lead harder (Brinell hardness of 30-45 depending on method) than the Linotype. Generally in metallurgy hardness = brittleness, so how all this will translate into longevity of the "cast locker" I don't know. I also wonder if adding a little tin (solder?) would help make the lead fill into the gears more tightly?

[nobearsyet]

When my computer will open the Surplus rifle page I'll have t ocheck that out.  Otherwise, I like the idea of making cheap wheel weights hard enough to not lead my 44 Mag, I am also wondering why linotype wouldn't be better, I can't see it being that much more brittle, I've used it for 35K psi cast rifle bullets and all was just fine

[outsydthbox]

     I have been reading this thread for a long time... very interesting. I think the brinell/  of the different alloys
raises another question that need to thought through. Which is... might it be possible to use an alloy that was hard enough, that IF/WHEN it fails, the loose pieces would actually DAMAGE  the gears faces? Another question is...what is the right balance between hard and soft to "absorb" the shock loads without fracturing or shattering?  Harder is not always better.
    A good example that comes to mind, is the Axles used for hard-core drag racing...they are actually "softer"
than the ones in your daily driver. The reason is so they FLEX, and absorb shock loads.
    Finding that "balance" between strength and durability. Someone on this thread made a good point...when the lead breaks...re-pour it, but maybe it's just soft enough to keep other things from breaking. Kinda like a fuse.   My 2 cents.


 

[ZUKIMON]

Someone on this thread made a good point...when the lead breaks...re-pour it, but maybe it's just soft enough to keep other things from breaking. Kinda like a fuse.   My 2 cents.

This is partially why I went this route. I figured that if I were getting on it too hard, the lead would eventually fail and I would have an indicator that I should do something different. It also felt good knowing that I could re-pour it should this ever happen and I would be totally able to replace each part in the diff with stock peices that are readily available.