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Author Topic: How to Make your own Clicky Starter Fix  (Read 12895 times)
MUDZUKI2
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« on: Tuesday, March 08, 2005, 05:58:25 PM »

Ok guys I know all of us can make these for our CLICKY Starters, these are really simple and can be made for about 7.00 to 8.00, The list of supplies can be bought at Advance Auto Parts and the like, You will need 5 Female  Receiving ends, 4 for the relay, and 1 for your Starter( the little tab on the starter itself),  You will need 2 Loops (circle s) 1 for your ground wire, one for the positive battery cable. and you will need 1 spade(male end) this goes to your wire that would normally plug onto the starter tab.  You will also need a 30-40 amp relay, these can be found were Advance sells fog lights and driving lights. Also  you will need 4 peices of wire , usually 6 to 8 inches in length. these are basically all the supplies it takes, if you want to heat shrink the wires were you crimp them, you can get that at advance to., here are some pics of supplies needed

 
you will need to attach 4 female ends on the males of the relay, using your 6 to 8 inch cut wire  the relay has a little tab that will allow you to mount it to the firewall, etc...I place the tab up and male ends down, the wiring sequence is this,looking at the relay with the tab up, male ends down......the far right wire off the relay will be a ground........ the one facing the front will be the female that hooks to your starter tab.........the one facing left will be the male that plugs into the  little wire that used to hook to the starter tab, the one in the back will be a hot wire that runs to the pos. battery cable.  its that simple,,,, I mounted mine here, to the right of the battery, on the firewall........ I hope I didnt make this harder than it is, Its fairly simple. ;D

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« Reply #1 on: Thursday, May 19, 2005, 11:59:37 AM »

I must of done something wrong !!!! I followed your directions but nothing changed . please help.
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sammi_davis
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« Reply #2 on: Saturday, May 21, 2005, 10:18:54 PM »

Very nice write up  ;)
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« Reply #3 on: Thursday, June 02, 2005, 08:38:48 AM »

I have swaped the wires around & nothing . I think I might of goten the wrong relay do you have a part # by chance?
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« Reply #4 on: Wednesday, July 27, 2005, 10:24:48 AM »

I have swaped the wires around & nothing . I think I might of goten the wrong relay do you have a part # by chance?

What is yours doing exactly? It may be the HIGH current contact on the starter instead of an ignition switch burning out. I've never tried to rebuild a Suzuki starter, but I've done it on a couple of other vehicles. If you can get the starter apart, you can probably fix it. Check the relay. If it is opening and closing and passing voltage to the starter, then you have another problem.
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« Reply #5 on: Saturday, August 20, 2005, 02:21:24 PM »

I did my fix this morning. worked great, thanks MudZuki2. I got a few off-road light relays from a friends truck and some wire and connecters from the motorpool. total cost=$0.00 ;D If anyone has questions or needs pics/PT#'s just ask.
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« Reply #6 on: Saturday, October 22, 2005, 08:01:21 AM »

Great writeup Mudzuki, worked like a charm for me.  Great savings off the Petroworks and other seller prices of $16 and up.  Total repair time was about 30 minutes, since I soldered all connections.  For those who want a part number, I personally used (from Autozone) a DF005 "Baja Tough" relay.  Cost:  $3.99.  For those who need to work by terminal numbers, check this write-up:

http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/samurai/starterfix.htm

Basically, terminal 87 goes to your starter.  Terminal 87a is not used (it is a constant hot).  #86 connects to the existing female that runs to the factory 1/4" tab.  #30 goes to the battery.  Terminal 85 goes to ground.
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« Reply #7 on: Saturday, October 22, 2005, 01:35:41 PM »

Quote:   Basically, terminal 87 goes to your starter.  Terminal 87a is not used (it is a constant hot).  #86 connects to the existing female that runs to the factory 1/4" tab.  #30 goes to the battery.  Terminal 85 goes to ground


Verification needed:    does #86 come from existing ignition switch?
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xanthias
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« Reply #8 on: Saturday, October 22, 2005, 08:49:19 PM »

Quote:   Basically, terminal 87 goes to your starter.  Terminal 87a is not used (it is a constant hot).  #86 connects to the existing female that runs to the factory 1/4" tab.  #30 goes to the battery.  Terminal 85 goes to ground


Verification needed:    does #86 come from existing ignition switch?

Yes.  The OEM female spade that is on your starter now will connect to it.
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MaineZuke
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« Reply #9 on: Sunday, October 23, 2005, 10:45:58 AM »

I understand how a starter works, and how this fix is supposed to work.

But if the ignition has enough current to trigger the relay, why wouldn't the ignition itself be able to trigger the solenoid?
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« Reply #10 on: Sunday, October 23, 2005, 08:25:48 PM »

not enough amperage
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« Reply #11 on: Sunday, October 23, 2005, 08:27:51 PM »

Yes.  The OEM female spade that is on your starter now will connect to it.

thanks for the clarrification.  Hammy
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« Reply #12 on: Saturday, December 03, 2005, 09:24:57 PM »

I finally made mine after 3months of being sick of hearingclick click click clickclick click click click  click click  click click  click click  click click . It was super easy and works awsome. Fires up first crank every time. Thanks allot man!
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« Reply #13 on: Sunday, December 04, 2005, 05:18:13 PM »

thats some good advice, if my sammi starts acting up, i have the info to fix it
thanx
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« Reply #14 on: Sunday, December 04, 2005, 06:12:54 PM »

i have a 16v that does the clicky starter thing    will this work on the 16v harness to fix the clicky starter?
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« Reply #15 on: Sunday, December 04, 2005, 07:09:12 PM »

yup
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« Reply #16 on: Monday, December 05, 2005, 09:36:28 PM »

Terminal 87a is not used (it is a constant hot).  

This isn't really relevant to the thread, just an FYI.  Assuming 12V is hooked up to terminal 30, then 87a is only hot (has voltage to it) as long as the relay isn't activated.  As soon as the relay is activated, the voltage that is coming in on terminal 30 is switched from terminal 87a to the 87 terminal(s).
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« Reply #17 on: Monday, December 05, 2005, 09:46:28 PM »

But if the ignition has enough current to trigger the relay, why wouldn't the ignition itself be able to trigger the solenoid?

The voltage, not the current (amperage) triggers the relay.  So................

not enough amperage

therefore you are correct.
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« Reply #18 on: Tuesday, December 06, 2005, 10:09:04 AM »

It was working good, but now that the weather is cold it still clicks. A lot more solid click (more power is going to the starter) but the colder is gets the worse it gets. The starter was rebuilt about 4months ago, but that doesn't mean allot when it is in the mud/water. Do you guys think I need a new starter?
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« Reply #19 on: Wednesday, December 07, 2005, 04:52:01 PM »

worked good on my 16v   thanks
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« Reply #20 on: Thursday, December 15, 2005, 02:56:45 PM »

Never came across this problem with my 1.3 .
Just put in my 1.6 and , well , I got this problem .
Thanks for the cure . :)
off to do more wiring . :(
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« Reply #21 on: Saturday, December 17, 2005, 02:59:17 PM »

Sounds like CalgarySam needs a new starter. to much mud is not a good thing.

Just my 2 cents. [bluesamside]
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« Reply #22 on: Sunday, December 18, 2005, 09:59:14 PM »

Thanks. easy install and solved my problem
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Genious
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« Reply #23 on: Saturday, March 25, 2006, 07:44:10 PM »

Thanks guys!  Just got mine installed.   [jump]

I had to run back to Autozone before I started because I was one male spade connector short.  By the end, all I had to do was connect my ignition wire directly to the relay and ended up not needing the connectors after all.  Oh well, I'll have them ready for something else.
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« Reply #24 on: Sunday, April 09, 2006, 02:19:22 PM »

I am going to do this pretty soon. my question is, does anyone know where to get the "plug" that will hold the termials to go onto the relay? I know they are out there but never found a soruce and i would like to keep a cleaner look, instead of having visible spade connections out in the open.
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« Reply #25 on: Sunday, April 09, 2006, 02:34:22 PM »

I went to the junk yard and got the relay and connector off a dodge caravan.

Total cost $5.00

John
Fairfield Ca

 [bluesamside]
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« Reply #26 on: Sunday, April 09, 2006, 07:05:38 PM »

I am going to do this pretty soon. my question is, does anyone know where to get the "plug" that will hold the termials to go onto the relay? I know they are out there but never found a soruce and i would like to keep a cleaner look, instead of having visible spade connections out in the open.


www.allelectronics.com

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/SRLY-2/525/SOCKET_FOR_AUTOMOTIVE_RELAY_.html



I usually just yank the wire for 87A out of the harness since you don't need it.


Kevin
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« Reply #27 on: Sunday, April 09, 2006, 07:08:51 PM »

Sweet!! That is jsut what i am looking for, and the price is right  :)
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« Reply #28 on: Sunday, April 09, 2006, 07:15:00 PM »

I order most of my electrical stuff from them.....relays and bases in qty of 10, heat shrink, split loom, etc. 

I have always had good dealings with them.

Kevin
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« Reply #29 on: Sunday, April 09, 2006, 08:28:50 PM »

Dan, you are going to have to come by before you start your swap and check out my diesel.  She ain't purdy, but she runs. [approve]
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« Reply #30 on: Tuesday, April 11, 2006, 06:08:28 PM »

Every now and then I get a click-click-start on my '89 'Kick.  Is this fix just for Sammi's?  ???
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« Reply #31 on: Tuesday, April 11, 2006, 06:37:22 PM »

It will work on the trac/kicks too.

Kevin
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« Reply #32 on: Wednesday, April 12, 2006, 03:53:46 AM »

It works on everything that has a starter.

John
Fairfield Ca

 [bluesamside]
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« Reply #33 on: Wednesday, May 10, 2006, 10:06:10 PM »

been wheelin mine 7 years never a clicky stater prob,but have good grounds,batt cable to block and body(heavy ones)never a prob!
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« Reply #34 on: Wednesday, May 10, 2006, 10:08:02 PM »

P.S goona keep postin till someone takes Zuki Wannabe from under my name,lol! [red_s] [red_s]
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« Reply #35 on: Thursday, May 11, 2006, 04:00:18 AM »

You will need to post atleast 10 more posts to get that changed

LOL

John
Fairfield Ca

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« Reply #36 on: Wednesday, May 24, 2006, 11:35:14 AM »

Just did this last night in like 10 mins before I went to bed.  Great fix and great write up of it.  Thanks a lot for the help, I thought my starter was going bad you saved me $80.
F_T
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« Reply #37 on: Friday, October 24, 2008, 12:45:51 PM »

I'm building one of these at work today. These are the NAPA numbers for the relay and plug-in harness.

Relay: AR201



Harness: EC23

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« Reply #38 on: Thursday, August 06, 2009, 09:25:24 AM »

Do you think the Grand Vitara 2002 might need this fix ?!?! I just got a grand vitara last month and this morning it took 10minute to start it... :\\'(

I made this fix already on my samurai and tracker in the past and I understand the fix but I tough suzuki got this fixed by 2002+ and the grand vitara has more noise insulation under the hood compared to the samurai so the click is less noticeable.. I'm not sure if this is the same thing again.. what do you think???  [red_s]
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« Reply #39 on: Thursday, January 28, 2010, 01:35:18 PM »

Hey so I want to do this to my sammy and i have seen some other writes ups elsewhere that say you need an inline fuse. Is this necessary?
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« Reply #40 on: Thursday, January 28, 2010, 10:53:34 PM »

Well I did this today and WOW what a difference it made no more clicks! It got to the point a couple of times that i just push started it because it clicked so long. It was super simple and quick. thanks for this write up.
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