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Scout II Dana 44 axle swap for a Suzuki Samurai

Started by BLKZUKI, Wednesday, Nov 09, 2011, 05:40 PM

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BLKZUKI

Wednesday, Nov 09, 2011, 05:40 PM Last Edit: Wednesday, Nov 09, 2011, 05:54 PM by BLKZUKI
Me and beekiller are going to be working on getting my Dana swap build put on the Zu...  so stay tuned for the pics and the thread

also once everything gets moved ill post some links for the flat top knuckle converstions... and explain as best i can for what to use to keep the sammy 5on5.5 lug pattern

BLKZUKI

As many of you know I'm swapping  in Dana 44's...  So i figured id do a build up thread here....   TOO


My axles are from a 78 Scout II they are not the easiest Dana's to swap in to a samurai.. first thing is if your running leaf springs you have to outboard your spring mounts on the front 1.5" on each side, I did that and made some new mounts and reused some... then after all that i had to come up with a mount for the passanger side of the diff... and i decided to copy the way you would mount a Toyota axle...  I had some old spring plates but they wouldn't work so i had to make some new ones out of some 1/4 plate i had... Now once i get all that figured out i have to take the front axle back out and cut the outer C's because scout axles come with 0* Castor from the factory... I'm going to post some pics of what i did and still working on... so in the future if anybody needs some ideas they will be able to see some pics cause i spent lots of hours trying to find some pics but there are none on the net... 

BLKZUKI

here are some pics of my progress so far... i also used some 1 1/4 solid rod to stregthen the frame in the front....









my spring plates are not the best... i was using a drill press with a new bit but i guess this metal is so hard it kept dulling the bit... i do plan on rolling the edges of the plates up so my springs will flex better

i also do not have  the steadest hand with a torch but they will be cleaned up a lot better with the grinder once i get done with all the test fitting



BLKZUKI

here are the pics of the perches and C's being turned... you can see in one pic how much negitive castor it had..



i set them to +5* castor..
overall it took 4hrs to grind the old welds off and turn the C's....  i figured it would take longer from what i read on doing this

BLKZUKI

got the axle back under it tonight... still have to weld the plate on top of the perch on the passanger side and weld the 1/2 shim on the drivers side... ill do that tomorrow and I'm also going to put everything in and on the axle on one side so i can see how much I'm going to have to cut on the front fender and maybe the bumper since i moved the axle forward another 1"... that and it will give me an exact idea on how wide I'm going to be now     so i will defiantly post a picture of that tomorrow...

BLKZUKI

got both front shock mounts moved and welded up... i had to re work the Sky hoops   they are not made to go that far forward on the frame so i had to cut the inner fender and tilt them.... i didnt wanna move them any further forward cause the would interfer with my brake lines.....
over all i ended up moving my front axle about 5-6" forward  way more than i planned

BLKZUKI

going to work on my steering tomorrow... going to do a "backyard" alingment on it... and get this old tierod adjusted right that way next weekend when i get my hiem joints in... all i have to do is cut the pipe and install.... going to order my rear brake adjusters and pick up a brake drum...  going to fix my rear driveshaft, when i installed the lifted yj's it took some slack out of it so i need to make it longer... have to do the same for the front drive shaft as well....  once i get the rear brake stuff and my steering done... all thats left are the front brake lines custom lenght... longer shocks for the rear.... 2x 5.13 gears and a front locker....


i used some 4" lifted yj springs that came off a yj... lucky for me they had been flatten some by the yj

BLKZUKI

here are some pics of the drag link... since my wheelbase is 87", my steering is a lil off with a tracker box  and my front axle so far forward.. I'm going to have to run the tierod below the springs.. and I'm going to run the draglink in the tierod hole on the highsteer arm... not sure how its going to work there until i drive it.. with it in the draglink hole on the highsteer it isn't parallel.. but with it in the tierod hole it is... it may work may not ill find out when i drive it....



running tracker ps is not the best thing for running dana's.. its to weak and with the dana's it needs a gear box with a forward facing pitman arm

BLKZUKI

as for the brake lines on the front since i was using M/L in all 4 corners.. i decided to go with 32" steel braided line.. i got them from Heitz racing in concord they have the best prices on brakelines

BLKZUKI

OK i think i covered most of the PITA stuff as far as swapping them into the samurai...  Now for the links to swap put the hubs,rotors, and spindle..

this link explains everything needed to get flat top knuckles  to fit the Scout axle
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html

i sent my passanger side Knuckle off to MR.N  to be milled and tapped .. i sent it off on a monday and had it back on a wednesday i believe.. it was about $75 for this service

over all i was satisfied with the swap... it did great...
this is by far not a cheap swap nor is it bolt on...  i think i spent close to 6 months getting them under my samurai..  the longest part was waiting for the stuff for the front axle(hubs,bearings,spindle, knuckles stub shaft)

BLKZUKI

here are some completed pics.





BLKZUKI

If there are anymore questions about this swap just shoot me an email and ill try to help ya out

Surly


I'm going to post some pics of what i did and still working on... so in the future if anybody needs some ideas they will be able to see some pics cause i spent lots of hours trying to find some pics but there are none on the net...


I thought you were going to pay me a visit and take pictures of mine.  [smiley=headscratch.gif]  Anyway, now I feel guilty for not posting pics but my axles stay covered in mud and I don't have a pressure washer. However, I basically copied Kevin Walker's technique (he's the guy with the blaze orange camo Zuk on D44s) and I'm pretty sure he posted pics on the ORC board when he did his swap.

I know pics get lost over time, though, and I apologize for not posting new ones of mine. If I ever get them cleaned up, I will.
I must admit I didn't want to hear what Surly had to say!

Surly

#13
Thursday, Nov 10, 2011, 09:18 AM Last Edit: Thursday, Nov 10, 2011, 09:23 AM by Surly

I'm going to have to run the tierod below the springs.. and I'm going to run the draglink in the tierod hole on the highsteer arm...

Actually you just have to get the right hi-steer arms (the short ones). Then you can have full hi-steer.  ;)

Quote
running tracker ps is not the best thing for running dana's.. its to weak and with the dana's it needs a gear box with a forward facing pitman arm

x2. I've already got my FJ box and Trail Gear pitman arm, just need a PSC pump and new lines.

I wish we could have worked together more on your project, but I'm still willing to answer your questions if you have any.

BTW, congratulations. Danas rock!  8)  I believe the extra unsprung weight makes mine more stable... does it bother you at all? And what tire size will you eventually be running? I'm on 35s and it feels just about right.
I must admit I didn't want to hear what Surly had to say!

durnzuki

Thanks for the advice on the brake lines THEY ROCK!  I agree, the kick P/S isnt as strong as I would like even with the shim and other mods.  We went with the stock Yota pump and box and it is LOTS better.

BLKZUKI

#15
Thursday, Nov 10, 2011, 06:05 PM Last Edit: Thursday, Nov 10, 2011, 06:09 PM by BLKZUKI
Ken I know longer have my Zuk, I sold it back in june.  I was just getting asked about the swap.. So me and beekiller did some work to get my build thread transferred here..  I finished the dana swap about a year ago... I loved the dana's under the zuk..  I just never really got to run it like I wanted... My truck died about a yr ago and had to DD my zuk for 6months.... it was never built to serve that purpose.... and I lost interest in it after having to DD...  I will get something else to wheel.... just needed a break... Ill probably never own a Zuk again... cause it would never be to me what my old one was..  I'm thinking real hard on an XJ on dana 60's...  what ever I get it will have dana's under it..


Your welcome Jeff that place is good and affortable.

Surly

Never say never my friend.  ;)  And thanks for the writeup. Your method is good (like Sky's Toyota swap kit).  I did mine differently (no u-bolts at all), but I had the four plates made at a machine shop and probably spent more money than I should have. My upper plates are 3/8" and my lower plates are 3/4". The lower plates are welded to the spring perches and gusseted to the axle housing with 3/8". There are four threaded holes in each lower plate that accept bolts which pass down through the upper plates. I believe the bolts I used were 9/16", grade 8, fine thread.

I'll find this thread and post pictures whenever I get the mud off of it.  ;D

I must admit I didn't want to hear what Surly had to say!

micked

if one decides to use coils on a scout 44... do you still have to grind and turn? Couldn't you just rotate the housing?  or does that screw up the steering geometry?  I was thinking of using a radius are an coil... like an old bronco...?

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