Weber...

[Biggerhammer]

I removed my Weber and mounted it backwards tonight before I left work (big empty shop was to hard to pass up). Going to run it up some steep stuff this weekend to see how well it works now.

[GA_ZUKI]

thats the way mine is mounted

[Sarge]

Wow, you've really managed to keep that clean , looks good....
Sarge

[GA_ZUKI]

sarge

thats when it was installed. lol


i still need to rejet

do you remember what you put in mine i need the next size down

[Sarge]

I'll take a look at my notes , or you could just pull the top off and look....
Sarge

[GA_ZUKI]

will it mess up the gasket

[Biggerhammer]

As long as your careful it won't mess up the gasket. I have had mine off several time due to a bad filter set-up from the PO. I now have a 9" round filter that I grafted to the origanal weber filter bottom and it works well.

[colts_zuki]

 I've heard from alot of people that a WEBER runs better for wheeling when its mounted on back words. Be sure to tell us how it did. I've kinda been back and forth on the WEBER vs. stock carb thing. so once again tell us how you like it.

[Biggerhammer]

I've heard from alot of people that a WEBER runs better for wheeling when its mounted on back words. Be sure to tell us how it did. I've kinda been back and forth on the WEBER vs. stock carb thing. so once again tell us how you like it.

I have run with several guys that have their mounted backwards and thy are hard to keep up with on the trail due to my flooding issues. Gazuki for one has his this way. The only thing that stopped me from doing this earlier was ignorance I guess, that and a sawed off 13mm wrench to get the front right nut tight (under the choke mechanism).

[Lizooki]

I now have a 9" round filter that I grafted to the origanal weber filter bottom and it works well.

I hate the Weber supplied filter.....Booty fabbed an 8 1/2" air cleaner as an experiment and I am well pleased with it. I'll do something purdier when I turn my Weber around....(winter project)


Matt

[Sarge]

The only real decent options for air filters on the Webers is either the Ramflo foam style or www.jameng.com has a nice snorkel adapter that flows well . All of the other designs including the round type inhibit air flow into the auxilary venturi's . Air enters the top of the carb after having to go up and around the choke housing . That turbulence is bad , plain and simple . These carbs were designed to flow straight down only , the Ramflo is the best choice overall but they aren't cheap .
http://www.racetep.com/ramflolynx.html The 600 cfm series works about the best on most DGV setups .

Turning the carb around "backwards" is almost a must for wheeling . At severe angles the carb can dump fuel out of the float bowl and flood out the air mix jets . Once flooded with fuel the main circuit is unable to mix air into the fuel stream creating a very rich main circuit . Not very fun to restart and can be quite harzardous on the trail on steep hill climbs . The only ill effect of turning the carb around is a possibility of starving the main jets under very hard acceleration . A proper fuel pump and regulator system to keep the fuel pressure below 3psi will also add to this as the system is restricted and sometimes cannot provide enough volume to feed the bowl when the float drops too quickly . If you run the fuel pressure right at 3psi and use a larger fuel filter inline before the carb it can act as a reservoir to help stop this . On the carbs that I modify for folks , the vent area in the bowl is filled in and a tube installed with a diverter to dump excess fuel into the primary throat . This way the engine can use the excess fuel instead of allowing it to foul out the air jets . This mod works very well and also allows very high angles of operation , mine runs well even when laying on it's side . On extreme downhill descents it does sometimes sputter a bit from fuel dumping out of the vent into the throats . At that point I just shut the electric pump off to stop the extra fuel delivery . This only happens when the truck is basically stood on it's nose, more than 45* .

Float settings in Webers are very critical . Plastic ones should be set to 35mm for a top fuel height , brass should be set to level from the solder joint and adding 2mm . Both float types should also be set to only allow the inlet valve itself to move 1mm in it's stroke , no more . 1mm is plent of room to allow full fuel flow from the valve , anything more than that will cause exessive fuel to be dumped in the bowl at high angles . 90% of problems with Webers are fuel system setup related , either too much pressure or not enough volume .
Sarge

[Biggerhammer]

I just checked that site out and man they sure are proud of those filters!

[tZuknami]

ME too!  I love mine.  Big difference from the cigarette box filter that came with the Weber.  This one is a 1000CFM version.

[wildchild1066]

i know this sounds dumb but how do you adjust the floats and where do you gauge them from ? i bought mine used if anyone can post or email me instructions i would be so thankfull . but i did mount it backwards and seems better than my buddys .

[Sarge]

First off , the guy in Iceland sucks . I ordered blue for my 1000cfm unit but recieved a really nasty green one . I mean , hurl-up-your-socks GREEN . The truck is blue , the accents in the engine bay are red , and that green just makes me wanna blow chow . Four phone calls and 10 emails later I'm still pissed about that ugly GREEN . Anyway, here's the lowdown on setting up a Weber's float:

First off , this is not a friggin Holley . Remove the top of the carb . If you lost the c-clip , just go get a small thin hairclip from the auto parts store instead , you'll thank me later. All measurements on Weber downdraft series DGV models are done from the gasket surface of the top cover . Play with the float a bit , you will notice there is an internal spring inside the float valve . That spring cannot be compressed when measuring the float height . When the cover is oriented so the choke butterflies are hanging down and the fuel inlet is at the top the float should dangle by it's pivot pin . This is the correct way to measure the float as it should just rest against the spring without compressing it .

Plastic floats over the years have had some changes made in their bouyancy . Ignore any notes that mention setting the bottom drop as I've found a better way through a very nice tech at Weber North America . Top measurements should be appx. 35mm from the bottom edge of the float to the gasket surface of the top cover . This sets the final fuel height in the bowl . Brass floats should be set so the solder joint is level with the top cover's gasket surface plus 2mm higher . All floats should be set for offroad use to only have 1mm of actual travel in the valve itself . Once you set the top height by gently bending the arm that moves the valve to the proper amount the bottom drop is set by the tab that hits the outside of the valve towards the fuel inlet . With the float hanging down as the top cover sits on the carb you will see how far the valve actually moves as the float is cycled . Make this distance on the valve to 1mm of travel not including the spring inside the valve . I know it sounds complicated , but once you do it this is not really that hard . Makes a huge difference in how much fuel can be dumped in and controlled by the float at severe operating angles . As I've said before , I can run mine on it's side literally and just as well on either bumper , even with the roof touching the ground .....LOL.....
Sarge

[tZuknami]

Wow Sarge...If I would have known, I would have ordered you one too.    If it makes you feel any better, I played hell trying to get that filter.  The place I ordered it from said they shipped it but it was actually being drop shipped from the distributor and took forever and a day.  The up side is that they were having a special so I got 2 filter elements-1 black and one red.
Isn't that float setting is a bit different than the way you used to teach the Weber scipture?  I set mine from 40-44mm measured from the bottom center of the float to the gasket surface.  Does that end up way off?

[Sarge]

Actually, those float settings have been in force just after yours went out . I finally got enough feedback from customers that I figured out what was happening . Seems 6 out of 10 had no problems , the other 4 had weird symptoms and we couldn't figure out why . After a 3hr discussion with the Weber NA rep I found out about the changes made in the floats over the last 3 years . 35mm from the gasket surface to the bottom edge of the float is correct and should work fine for all variations of the plastic floats . If you exhibit leaning when shifting during hard acceleration you can add about 3-5mm more height to compensate . Some were just a bit more bouyant than others , not much quality control these days I guess . Brass has long been my favorite but all the masses voted against it , should have stuck to my instincts .....
Sarge

[NitroMax]

Sarge: with the Samurai I bought I got a Weber carb in the deal , it looks different from the one in the pictures in these posts. Do you know wether the one I've got is compatibel with the Samurai-engine ?

It says: 32 DRT 8/100 on one side and there's 5c stamped on the other side of the carb. It has a black plastic "round thing" on the side ( where there's a aluminum "round thing" on the carbs in the pics here ).

I can post/mail a picture if that would help.

[Sarge]

That model is a full emissions electric choke , a real pain to deal with . All the settings are done by linkage unlike the electronic Hitachi's . Wouldn't make much of a difference over the stock carb . Most of those came from old Fiats and had a real problem with warpage....
Sarge

[Biggerhammer]

Hey Sarge, while you are answering Weber questions. I have a weber with the electric choke in the shed... Can I take the water choke off the one I'm running and mount the electric choke set-up on that carb? Or will I have to run the whole electric choke carb?

Thanks

[NitroMax]

That model is a full emissions electric choke , a real pain to deal with . All the settings are done by linkage unlike the electronic Hitachi's . Wouldn't make much of a difference over the stock carb . Most of those came from old Fiats and had a real problem with warpage....
Sarge

Okay, thanks for the answer Sarge, better leave this one alone and look for a good one then. Can you give me the type I have to look for or are they actaully called 34/36's ?

[tZuknami]

Okay, thanks for the answer Sarge, better leave this one alone and look for a good one then. Can you give me the type I have to look for or are they actaully called 34/36's ?

The most widely used and offered in kit form for the 1.3 are the 32/36 DGAV (water choke) or 32/36 DGEV (electric choke).  If you don't care about mileage and plan on more aggressive modifications to your engine get a 38/38 DGAS (water) or 38/38 DGES (electric).  The main difference (besides venturi/throat bore) between the 32/36's and 38/38's is that the 32/36 is a progressive carb opening one barrel only and then opening the larger when more power is needed.  The 38/38 is a synchronous carb opening both equally sized bores at the same time.  (chime in if I'm wrong Sarge)

By the way, there is a polished 32/36 DGES on ebay right now for a $280 "buy it now" price.  (although I'm not to sure the bling is worth the clear coat that mwill eventually chip or flake off) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7938142902&category=33550
Adapter plates would need to be purchased separately but I would get the billet ones from Sarge if he still offers them.  It would help reduce the chance of leaks at the manifold.

[Sarge]

The electric choke can be swapped in fairly easily . With the carb cold , open the throttle a bit with the air cleaner removed to allow the choke to set itself . Note the position of the choke flaps carefully , measuring them is a good idea . You will need to reset the position when installing the electric choke . Remove the 3 outside screws on the choke housing so you can remove the water choke element . Leave the nylon gasket that keeps dirt out and install the electric element . Make certain the internal lug engages the bi-metal spring inside the electric unit , it should sit inside the hole in the end of the spring . Install the retaining ring and pre-wind the choke back to the measured amount on the flaps . You usually have to open the throttle about 1/4 to allow the flaps to move so the high idle linkage does not interfere with the setting . Once the ring is locked down , hold the flaps wide open and release the throttle . This resets everything to zero . Once you move the linkage again it should close the choke to the preset level . If not , repeat and readjust it . Most are set at 1/8" from closed at 50*F , 1/4" at 70*F . Do not overtighten the retaining ring screws , they are self locking as the ring bends when you tighten the screws down . Hook up the choke to a keyed "on" circuit so the choke gets power when the engine is running . Have fun....

The 32/36DGV series is basically a stock replacement aftermarket performance carb . Properly tuned they can provide higher than stock power and very respectable fuel mileage . Keep in mind that they are a bit fussy about timing and vacuum leaks . Your distributor has to work properly since the carb is not calibrated by the vehicles computer system  such as the Hitachi's feedback type . If you really plan on any further engine mods , seriously consider using the 38DGAS series as they are not progressive but instead are a synchronous type and will provide huge gains in torque and throttle response . Fuel mileage can still be pretty good since you don't have to constantly run into the secondary as with the 32/36 progressives . Mine cruises easily with only about 1/3 throttle input . BTW, that carb on Ebay is a reman but Carbdoc is a respectable rebuilder and the polish job should last a long time . Personally, I'd never sell one with that much work that cheap , that is a real pia.....
Sarge

[Biggerhammer]

Thank you Sarge! I will try doing this this weekend! I was going to try and use the electric cike carb but it has sat in the weather and has about a pound of mud in it. Also it is missing half of the jets and the caps on the side of the carb. It does have the adjuster screw on the lower plate that my Weber does not.

[rangerscott]

Hey sarge,  need yoiur help on my weber.  How hard is it to do the "no flood" trick.  Where you fill the carb with liqiud solder and then drill a new vent hole?

[Sarge]

I use a product called Quick Steel that is a two-part metal epoxy similar to JB Weld . The vent area is filled in , a brass tube installed with permanent lock tite , and a divertor plate soldered on to direct the fuel into the throats . The trick is to shield the air jets without blocking their flow ....
Sarge

[rangerscott]

do you have any pics of a flood free weber?

[Biggerhammer]

Well I ran my Zook all over the rocks this weekend and the only stalling issues I had was from bumping something and not hitting the gas. I should have done a long time ago.

[Sarge]

Hmm, pics . Not sure how I feel about that since I make a business from these mods . Patent, no , but trade secret , yes . Two years of testing and a lot of body damage to show for it as well.....
Sarge

[tZuknami]

do you have any pics of a flood free weber?

I agree with Sarge personally.  Sarge is well known throughout the Zuk community for all the help he does provide free of charge.  A good example is the explanation given here:

I use a product called Quick Steel that is a two-part metal epoxy similar to JB Weld . The vent area is filled in , a brass tube installed with permanent lock tite , and a divertor plate soldered on to direct the fuel into the throats . The trick is to shield the air jets without blocking their flow ....
Sarge

I had Sarge do mine (even though I had seen a few examples on the net of various ways to mod the vent).  It was the best money I've spent on my engine.  Sarge's price was very reasonable, the service was outstanding, the carb works like magic.  Not to mention he sent me more information on Weber carbs than I would ever want to read.   

[Sarge]

I just tossed up a rebuilt and fairly new 32/36DGEV in the for sale section , price is pretty sweet .....
Sarge

[rangerscott]

U got to understand that when your 19 and dont have money for another vehicle and you can't put your car on down time and you live in the middle of texas and when you say youi drive a zuk and people look at you like your the most retarted person in the world.  YOu need all the help you can get.  "O you drive a rip off JEEP."