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Author Topic: diesel vs gas  (Read 866 times)
bbm715
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« Reply #15 on: Thursday, November 05, 2009, 03:15:21 PM »

I put that diesels were costlier to service  ;D

I'm not bashing diesels, but for what he said a 1/2t gasser would be a LOT cheaper and more fun to drive.

Personally I'm always on the lookout for a cheap 6bt or late 7.3l turbo to swap into my Kaiser M715 5/4 ton truck to replace the 460.  But that truck is a HEAVY worker and it makes sense. 
Daily driver is an '06 Dodge Quad Cab Hemi 4x4 1/2t.  That thing is like driving a freaking car.  Turns and handles great and can seat 6 plus pull the family camper.  I don't really have to watch traffic getting onto the highway because it's really quick.  Generally a lot of fun to drive and I can tow with it too.
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Krew Krawlers
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« Reply #16 on: Thursday, November 05, 2009, 04:54:50 PM »

I'll keep my '94 Geo Prizm and get 30 mpg. ;D

If I need to tow something, I'll just ask the owner of the dealership I work at and use a nice newer D-Max. :-X ;D
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Tim
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« Reply #17 on: Thursday, November 05, 2009, 07:00:41 PM »

yall are crazy...
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jtaj77
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« Reply #18 on: Thursday, November 05, 2009, 07:30:44 PM »

I have a diesel because I like to roll the coal. My truck is fun to drive and can tow anything I need to move. It cost more to operate than a gasser most of the time but so does my zuk with 38's. It's not about the money for me. It's about not having to down shift to pass someone or going up a hill when towing.

This is not mine but you get the idea. My doesn't smoke like that, yet.  ;)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZbYSgpA6eY
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ObeseFieldMouse
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« Reply #19 on: Friday, November 06, 2009, 10:28:13 PM »

i drive a diesel jetta.  1.9 tdi.  2006 model.  on the highway i average around 52mpg.  one tank takes me around 550 miles around town, and up to 750 on the highway.  i have loads of power and can go oveer the mountains and stay in 6th gear without it even thinking about it.  cruise control all the way, no downshifting.

diesel all the way!!!!

ps my jetta will roll coal hahaha
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rockrat
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« Reply #20 on: Friday, November 06, 2009, 11:39:06 PM »

I have a 2003 Jeta TDI that gets 47MPG. I used to drive 3500 miles a month. It more then paid for itself. 5000 mile oil chages sometimes 6000.
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Krew Krawlers
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« Reply #21 on: Saturday, November 07, 2009, 02:28:48 PM »

I used to drive 3500 miles a month.

Dare I ask, why? What in the world were you doing that many miles a month for?
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durnzuki
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« Reply #22 on: Sunday, November 08, 2009, 06:12:23 PM »

You are also forgetting that WHEN you trade it or sell it it is worth more money.  As for being slow,  mine is a slow 7.3 IDI non turbo and it takes off plenty fast enough and will spin the tires at stop lights.   I didnt buy mine to race anybody.  I wanted to be able to tow what ever I hooked up to with out worrying about "Can I haul that".  I have towed a 6000lb load with a 4.3 Blazer and while it pulled anything I wanted to at the time if I had to make a sudden turn to avoid something I was sucking seat cover.  I just got back from towing a 40ft goose neck with two sammis and lots of parts for 500 miles.  I averaged 13 MPG and even had a blown tire on the trailer that I couldnt feel.    I had a 1/2 ton chevy before this and it SUCKED towing,  every time the wind blew it tried to change lanes.
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« Reply #23 on: Monday, November 09, 2009, 12:16:17 PM »

Dare I ask, why? What in the world were you doing that many miles a month for?

Field engineer, I was on 4-5 different Job sites a day. Everywhere from the Wisconsin border to middle of Indiana and in between.
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Krew Krawlers
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« Reply #24 on: Monday, November 09, 2009, 09:03:02 PM »

Ahh, OK. :D  You're one of those smarty pants guys! ;D

J/K  ;)
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« Reply #25 on: Thursday, November 19, 2009, 06:18:51 PM »

any thoughts on 12 valves?
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jtaj77
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« Reply #26 on: Thursday, November 19, 2009, 07:58:08 PM »

any thoughts on 12 valves?
Greg is the 12 valve guy. It's just as good as any of the other cummins engines. Those trucks can be picked up pretty cheap.
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Whitfield
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« Reply #27 on: Friday, November 20, 2009, 07:03:44 AM »

My dream diesel

12v / Club Cab / Long bed / 4wd / Black /

Killer dowel pin killed,
No noise in the NV 4500 5-spd (5th gear nut issue repaired)
Steel rear trans case up grade if you tow weight for a living.
Fresh tie rods and ball joints if you are over 100k

20+ MPG /  Fuel plate mods are cheap / engine can easily and CHEAPly overpower the drive line.

down side ~ You can't hear much at stop other then the singing Cummins.

I'd take the same truck in a 2000 - 2002 HO 24v 6 spd but I'm scared of the VP44 Injection pump failure frequency ~ Lift pump is a non issue.
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Tim
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« Reply #28 on: Friday, November 20, 2009, 06:47:13 PM »

what is the killer dowel pin
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Whitfield
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« Reply #29 on: Friday, November 20, 2009, 08:25:14 PM »

what is the killer dowel pin

http://www.dieselbombers.com/dodge-truck-cummins-turbo-diesel-forum/4498-killer-dowel-pin-fix.html

During engine assembly, a steel dowel pin is pressed into the block to precisely locate its timing-gear housing. The problem? Over time, vibration can cause the pin to work its way out, and because it's made of steel, there is no working its way through the engine. It becomes the dowel pin of death.

There are a few things that can happen. Option number one: you get extremely lucky and the pin falls through the maze of cam, crank, and injection-pump gears and lands harmlessly in the oil pan or on the bottom of the gear housing-and nothing happens. Total cost for repairs: $0.

Option number two: the pin falls, and it comes in contact with the cam gear and smashes into the gear housing on the front of your engine. When this happens, it is steel versus aluminum-and steel wins out. The housing will crack open or lose a big chunk right where the dowel pin was forced into the housing. If this happens, you'll wake up the next morning and notice the Exxon Valdez in your driveway. Your total repair bill, including labor, will be approximately $1,000.

Option number three is the killer: the pin falls and munches up the cam gear or breaks it off completely. The valves will then smack into the pistons, creating a junkyard in your combustion chambers. Scraping metal doesn't work nearly as well as #2 diesel, and this can take out your heads, valves, and pistons-and possibly your engine block, making it impossible to overbore and rebuild. If this happens, there are almost no parts you can salvage, and your only option is to either to sell the truck for parts or pick up a new engine to the tune of at least a few thousands bucks. When option number three happens, you'll be left stranded on the side of the road.


Our '97 Dodge Ram cost $5,000, and we were really worried about option number three because we knew buying another truck might be a cheaper option than getting it fixed. While it may only happen to a few percent of Dodges, the killer dowel pin (KDP) can strike at any time, which is a huge worry for those using the truck for a business or driving long distances.

There are a dozen companies out there selling KDP repair kits (approximately $50) that consist of a new bolt, gaskets, and a tab to hold in the dowel pin so it can't work loose. The labor involved takes about two to three hours for a shop or about an afternoon if you are mechanically inclined and can do the repair in your driveway.

Basically, you have to remove all accessories from the front of your engine so you can get your timing-gear cover off, put in the dowel-retaining tab, then put everything back on. It's labor-intensive but certainly not too difficult. We meant to do this ourselves, but the narrow streets of Venice, California, are the only space we have to work on our truck. Finally, we realized that $200 of shop labor was better than the total loss of the truck and took it to Redline Diesel Performance in Corona, California, to have the dowel pin fixed. Now we can sleep at night.





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