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Author Topic: YJ swap questions  (Read 4184 times)
outsydthbox
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« Reply #15 on: Saturday, October 17, 2009, 12:42:49 PM »

     Measure a YJ (spring mounting points) subtract samurai (front:35.5" /  rear: 38.4"), divide by 2 = the amount of extension to EACH END of the frame mounting points on your Samurai.   
« Last Edit: Saturday, October 17, 2009, 08:59:49 PM by outsydthbox » Logged

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samurayo
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« Reply #16 on: Sunday, October 18, 2009, 01:42:36 AM »

True but we have the Yj's on hand and putting them on the hangers and spring pad isn't that difficult. So we might as well just mount it all up and see first hand where the spring ends up and then figure out the best way to mount the front with the given extension.

I just feel that practice is better then theory. But your theory does sound like something that could be done.
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outsydthbox
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« Reply #17 on: Sunday, October 18, 2009, 11:27:52 AM »

Thanks.
     Remember though, 2+2=4...always. Math is not variable, but out of the 4 YJ "5-leaf" springs that I have sitting on my shop floor, I have 3 different lengths, because of differences in arch. The variance is right at 1-inch...which one is right?
     Jeep corporation didn't put the hangers on each jeep based on what each spring length came out to. Since I am not a "degree holding" engineer, The way I see it (doesn't mean I am right), I have 4 choices:
1) get a degree.   2) buy hardware that has been designed & tested, based on proven designs.    3) make my own hardware, based on proven designs, and what little math I know.    4) make a guess, based on 4 springs, of 3 different lengths.....and since it is a performance AND safety issue......I choose #3.....but will probably go with #2  ;) ;D ;)


BTW, according to 3 different YJ frame schematics (dimensions listed in mm), the spring hanger to shackle mounts are:  front:    43.78" (1125.1 mm)      rear:    44.33" (1112.0 mm)

peace :)
             
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samurayo
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« Reply #18 on: Sunday, October 18, 2009, 09:31:32 PM »

First of all, I would get all 4 springs to have the same length by re arching the one (or however many) need to be arhced. In my case, I have two pair of leafs that are the same length. But the two pairs are not the same. Thus I will have them all worked on so that they are the same length and then go with option #3. Because buying just isn't an option...

And yes you're right 2+2=4 always. But what if instead of 2 it's 3  [worried] because of the difference in the springs. Like I said, math does work, but as is seen in engineering. Math is only an approximation of reality, never is it a 100% true representation of it.
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Skyman
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« Reply #19 on: Sunday, October 18, 2009, 10:17:14 PM »

True but we have the Yj's on hand and putting them on the hangers and spring pad isn't that difficult. So we might as well just mount it all up and see first hand where the spring ends up and then figure out the best way to mount the front with the given extension.

I just feel that practice is better then theory. But your theory does sound like something that could be done.

This is the way I would go Mount up the front with your relocation plates and see where the spring end lands.. I am sorry I have not been around to help, I have been wheeling all weekend.

If you would like, I can measure the distance from the STOCK FRONT shackle hanger to the top of the shackle on the M/L this should give you an idea of how far you are going to need to extend the frame.  I can also measure my front relocation plate to see how far it moves the spring forward.


Now here is an idea. Some people have done a short frame extension, and then moved the shackle to the rear for shackle reverse YJ. This is a very safe and proven way to get YJ's up front without buying a lot of parts from vendors. This seems like your problem, (nowhere to buy the parts where shipping won't kill the deal). If I were in your shoes, this is the way I would go.

The start of the build below shows a very nice home made shackle reversal, simple easy and proven road safe.
http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=12432

FWIW
I just flat towed my samurai for 6 hours on the freeway at 65-70MPH wheeled it all day, then drove it into town at 60-70MPH and towed it the 6 hours back home. I have no problems with stability, or feeling safe on the road. (I do have new steering and have ,make sure the front end is in spec) IE, wheel bearings king pins tie rod ends, all in spec. If your samurai is in good condition and you maintain it well, there is no problem with Properly built missing links, they handle better than stock.


Let me know if you need anything I am glad to help.
--Sky
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samurayo
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« Reply #20 on: Sunday, October 18, 2009, 10:27:17 PM »

Thanks Sky,

Sounds like you were having some fun. I'll take a look at the zukikrawlers site to see the shackle reverse idea. For now we are seeing all of our options and trying to see what is the most doable with a very (extremely) limited pocket.

One question:
Quote
front relocation plate to see how far it moves the spring forward.

Wouldn't the front relocation plate move the springs towards the back of the sami? In order to try to keep the axle in the same location? maybe I'm thinking of a different item ???
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outsydthbox
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« Reply #21 on: Sunday, October 18, 2009, 11:10:10 PM »

    I am right there with you, Samurayo. The only thing I CAN afford right now, is to think about which way I'm going to go with my build. I have all the equipment i need, and can't afford to buy the steel :P
     
    Skyman, thanks for the input...I understand about extending the frame forward with an s/r...does that require any special drive-shaft modifications?

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abraham_monge
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« Reply #22 on: Monday, October 19, 2009, 10:00:58 AM »

Nice Link Sky, thanks for your help and all of you guys.
now i have the YJ´s springs at home and they are 6 inches longer than the rear samurai's springs.
When I have the opportunity I going to show you guys the pics of the springs and the relocation.
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HardLuk
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All generalizations are false


« Reply #23 on: Monday, October 19, 2009, 12:25:41 PM »

As far as inspection goes and costs to complete project, you may not want to do a S/R.  The stock driveshaft will not work, not even modified, if you want full flex.  It doesn't have the angle handling ability nor the spline length.  There would have to be a custom made driveshaft

The S/R would be a stable option.  Though with inspection (YJ in S/R is permanent), and money for the front driveshaft to be made, and having to have access to a good welder (person and machine), it may not be a viable option, but it is road worthy and would probably net a very nice ride and approach angle.

It's certainly good to consider all your options though.


By the way, what would it cost to ship something to Costa Rica?  If something cost $150 here in the states plus tax, so like $162 w/tax, what would it cost to you by the time it arrived at your front door?  Just curious....

 ???



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samurayo
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« Reply #24 on: Monday, October 19, 2009, 12:35:17 PM »

Quote
what would it cost to you by the time it arrived at your front door?

That all depends on the size and/or weight of the object. In my case I have a friend that brings things via boat and is relatively cheaper then let's say UPS or DHL and two shocks (DT3000) set me back around $100. Only the shipping from US to CR. Not counting the shipping inside US. So basically a $75 buy ended up at $175. That's why we try to do things ourselves as much as possible.

As for the S/R it's going to be difficult because as shown on the link, he had to do a whole frame extension and weld it on. So it ends up being the same amount, if not more, work then simply putting independent frame extensions like the RRO kit does. The good thing here is that we aren't in any hurry (at least until Abraham starts getting impatient because he wants to see his rig flexing like mad!!! :P)
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abraham_monge
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« Reply #25 on: Monday, October 19, 2009, 12:35:51 PM »

hardluk look this example, plus i have to pay the taxes here in Costa Rica, the grand total here could be arround $500

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HardLuk
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« Reply #26 on: Monday, October 19, 2009, 01:05:14 PM »

I see.  That does sound outrageous.  What about USPS flat rate shipping.  It's something like $10 and anything that can fit in the box, no matter the weight, is a flat rate of $10.  There are various box dimensions and one of them should be suitable for a missing link front end shackle kit.  If you had friends or family buy it here, then ship it via USPS flat rate, I wonder what would happen then??


Here's something copied from USPS (flat rate international)

231.212 Priority Mail International Regular/Medium and Large Flat-Rate Boxes
The weight limit for items mailed using the regular/medium and large flat-rate boxes is 20 pounds.


It seems a couple of these boxes at right around $10 each packaged with the TT YJ front kit (left side in one box & right side in the other) would be considerably cheaper than direct shipping by weight and freight and duty (?) and all those associated costs

??
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samurayo
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« Reply #27 on: Monday, October 19, 2009, 01:09:41 PM »

That's an interesting option. I had never heard of that!!! In the best of cases maybe even someone on the Zu that lives near the TT shop could buy it and send it. That way we wouldn't even have to pay shipping inside the US.

This opens a whole new can of worms for me!!! Too bad it has a 20lbs max :( (thinking of bigger and better things)
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ecoast
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« Reply #28 on: Monday, October 19, 2009, 01:28:27 PM »

Won't TT 'help out' and ship usps international priority if you ask NICE?
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samurayo
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« Reply #29 on: Monday, October 19, 2009, 01:33:06 PM »

Quote
Won't TT 'help out' and ship usps international priority if you ask NICE?

No idea, I might just send an e-mail asking about that. And maybe Sean at LowRange would too. BTW is the international priority the same as the flat rate mentioned above??
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