simple way to set valves

[crispin]

Hey all...
I am getting the new to me motor prep'd to run.
I have the FSM but I just don't get it.
Can someone explain to me how to set the valve lash?
I have feeler gauges
I know how to find TDC on cyl #1
I have the valve cover off
please what do I do now?

Thank you very much!

[Whitfield]

Slide feeler Gauge between the valve stem (top of valve)  and the rocker face that rides on the valve stem.

With your feeler gauge in place slide it in / pull it out. 

I usually set them just snug enough to force the feeler Gage both directions.  If it tries to fold up going back in then to tight. 
Now I do set it as tight as i can and still get the gauge to slide both directions.  This may involve adjusting how you hold or slide the gauge.  You want firm drag with no loss motion so you are setting to the true gauge spec. 

Your rocker is following your cam profile, so you want to set the rocker tight enough to copy the cam lift to the valve ~ but loose enough to allow for thermal expansion so the valve close completely and not leak (Blow by) when hot.  The thermal expansion is accounted for by the feeler gauge thickness, with out thermal expansion we would set the valves at or close to ZERO.  At Zero you risk holding the valve partially open.  Just the slightest bit open will cause Valve leak (usually called blow by).  Blow by is actually flame from the combustion shooting past the sealing face of the valve.  This flame finds fresh oxygen from the leaking valve and forms a  cutting torch like action that will cut a V-shaped notch in the valve face.

Generally Suzuki exhaust valves suck into the head / bend the valve face downward into a tulip shape.  So not adjusting the valves will often result in the valves being too tight / possible holding the valves open and not closing completely. 

Generally this is opposite of what most folks expect. 


Just to recap:

~ Too tight = bad
~ Too loose = noise and poor performance


       

[Whitfield]

With the piston at TDC you can set both exhaust and intake valves.

See if you can follow along for setting each set of valves at their specific TDC place along crank timing.

If you mark your crank pulley with a white dot at OE timing mark (I'll call it 12 o-clock) and another white dot opposite of it (I'll call it 6 O-clock) ~  These dots only need to be close not scientifically perfect. 

With #1 at TDC compression stroke set the valves on cylinder #1     (OE Timing MARK) being 12 o-clock,  (first time around at pointer)

Set valves for #3 at 6 O-clock  (first time at pointer)

Set valves for #4 at 12 O-clock (second time at pointer)

Set valves for #2 at 6 O-clock   (second time at pointer)

[crispin]

ok... SHOULD i USE .05 (caps lock error)
Which gauge should I use.

Ok and to make sure I understand
TDC #1 (12 pm)
set lash to (>) for cyl 1 (intake and exhaust valves)
then rotate to 6pm - set # 3 (both valves)
rotate back to 12 pm (#1 cyl 180 degrees out) set #4 valves
rotate back to 6 pm (now 360 out from #1 tdc) set 3 2 valves

I think I have it now.

Just tell me the best feeler gauge to use.

thank you very much I think I get it now

[crispin]

I dont understand why this site wont allow me to edit my posts

anyway not
rotate back to 6 pm (now 360 out from #1 tdc) set 3 2 valves

I mean
rotate back to 6 pm (now 360 out from #1 tdc) set # 2 valves

[Whitfield]

Been too long since I set my last valves. 

But I prefer to set them cold and the specs should be under the hood on the Yellow label.

[ZukiJon]

ok... SHOULD i USE .05 (caps lock error)
Which gauge should I use.

Ok and to make sure I understand
TDC #1 (12 pm)
set lash to (>) for cyl 1 (intake and exhaust valves)
then rotate to 6pm - set # 3 (both valves)
rotate back to 12 pm (#1 cyl 180 degrees out) set #4 valves
rotate back to 6 pm (now 360 out from #1 tdc) set 3 2 valves

I think I have it now.

Just tell me the best feeler gauge to use.

thank you very much I think I get it now

TDC on the compression stroke. You should see that the lobes on the cam aren't putting any pressure on the rocker arms for cyl #1

[Whitfield]

At TDC #1 Compression stroke

at 000 Deg. set Cyl #1

at 180 Deg. set Cyl #3

at 360 Deg. set Cyl #4

at 540 Deg. set Cyl #2

All turning clockwise when facing the front of the engine.

As Zuki John says:  At each cylinders valve adjutment point along the crank timing listed above:  The cam lobes should be pointing away from the rocker arm and the rockers (intake and exhaust) should have the listed valve lash spec of free play in them

[Whitfield]

I'm awaiting a tech reply on another board about running and engine backwards and how it effects piston slap at cold start due to wrist pin off set....

Looking for good karma... 

[ZukiJon]

As Zuki John says:  At each cylinders valve adjutment point along the crank timing listed above:  The cam lobes should be pointing away from the rocker arm and the rockers (intake and exhaust) should have the listed valve lash spec of free play in them

Right.

I was just making sure he was at the right starting point..... didn't specify to follow same for each cylinder.... Whitfield is correct

[ZukiJon]

I'm awaiting a tech reply on another board about running and engine backwards and how it effects piston slap at cold start due to wrist pin off set....

Looking for good karma... 

For use as a boat motor?

[outsydthbox]

Hey Crispin,
     The intakes need to be gaped .005 to .007 (thousandths)
           exhausts to .006 to .008 (thousandths)  with the engine cold
You need to be able to push and pull the guage with one hand, while tightening the screw. Stop as soon as you feel any drag on the gauge, and tighten the nut. Then re-check with the gauge, and re-do if you need to.
 
Regards,

Greg

[crispin]

Hey Crispin,
     The intakes need to be gaped .005 to .007 (thousandths)
           exhausts to .006 to .008 (thousandths)  with the engine cold
You need to be able to push and pull the guage with one hand, while tightening the screw. Stop as soon as you feel any drag on the gauge, and tighten the nut. Then re-check with the gauge, and re-do if you need to.
 
Regards,

Greg

Thank you very much...I now have everything I need to know to set up the valve lash tommorow.

Again thank you